Force Unleashed Jumptrooper CRL Discussion

[Fivezero[TX]]

Alright guys, here's the first draft of the CRL text for the Jumptrooper! Let me know your thoughts and if anything should be moved around or reworded.

------------------------------------------

This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized):
 

• Helmet
• Helmet Hose
• Balaclava
• Under Suit
• Shoulder Straps
• Shoulder Armor
• Biceps
• Forearms
• Hand Plates
• Gloves
• Chest Armor
• Back Armor
• Jet Pack
• Abdomen Armor
• Kidney Armor
• Posterior Armor
• Belt
• Thigh Armor
• Lower Leg Armor
• Boots
• Neck Seal (Optional)
• Rail Detonator (Optional)

----------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------

Description: TFU Jumptrooper
Prefix: TX
Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment
Context: Star Wars: The Force Unleashed

Jumptroopers are aerial specialists that are used as reinforcements to gain a height advantage on their enemies in assisting ground forces. Their jet packs coupled with their rail detonators make them a force to be reckoned with. 

Special Notes:

• The armor parts are gloss white made from one of these (or similar) types of materials:
  • Fiberglass
  • ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
  • HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)
  • PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing)
  • Polyurethane Rubber
• Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy
• 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed.

Helmet

• Single piece lens must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. It can be either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke or dark green.
• A gray stripe runs below the lens ending at the top of the lens. This can be painted or a decal.
• There are two black "nostrils" present that are small rounded recesses on the bridge of the face, located between and slightly above the lower part of the visor eyes.
• The frown must have 4 to 6 teeth cut out and any gray coloring must not leave the indented area.
  • Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • The indents at the bottom of the frown are black.
• A recessed channel, painted black, runs around the ears and continues above and across the lower tubes , (please refer to additional helmet gallery picture).
• The lower tube stripes are gray in color and number 4 per side. These can be either hand painted or decals. The tube stripes connect to longer stripes running to the rear of the helmet.
• The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical black bars that are rounded at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front.
• The "ears" are rounded details with a notch to fit around the power cell housing.
  • The ears feature two black pointed details. These can be either hand painted or decals.
• The power cell is comprised of 3 components; 2 power cells and the power cell housing, (please refer to additional helmet gallery picture).
  • The power cells are small rectangular boxes that are connected to the power cell housing. Each power cell has a recessed face that is black. A black stripe approximately 3/32" (2mm) wide that runs around the outside of each power cell. There is a small gap between each power cell when mounted in the power cell housing.
  • The power cell housing is seamlessly connected to the cheeks and has a recessed area where the power cells mount, the inner wall of the recessed area is black. A gray stripe approximately 3/16" (5mm) wide near the top of the housing.
• The aerators are tan, and screening must be silver.
  • The interior of the aerator can either be white or tan.
• Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) are gray and can be hand painted or decals.
• A red stripe is offset to the left side of the helmet and runs towards the rear of the dome. The stripe is approximately 1/2” (13mm) wide.
• Two small red symbols are present next to the dome stripe.
• Brow trim, black and approximately 5/8" (16mm) in height, runs from the rear of one trap to the rear of the opposite trap.
• The visor is attached with gray domed fasteners in the middle of the front traps.  The visor attachment tab should be slightly smaller than the traps allowing the traps to be partially visible.
  • The visor has gray stripes on each side, running horizontally from the rear and stopping short of the front.
  • Red symbols similar to the dome symbols are present on each side with a red bar offset. On the left side, the bar is positioned towards the rear of the visor. On the right side, the bar is positioned towards the front of the visor.
  • Visor mounts in front of the brow trim, with the top of the visor flush with the top of the brow trim.
• The hose port is gray in color with a red stripe approximately 3/4" (20mm) wide running down the front. 
• Helmet is moderately weathered. All red detailing is weathered.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.
  • Heavier weathering is present around the power cell housings, aerators and hose port.

Helmet Hose

• Black ribbed hose that is 1.75" (45mm) diameter and 10" to 16" (20-40cm) of length from the helmet hose port to the front chest hose port.
• Hose features a red stripe approximately 3/4" (20mm) wide, centered and running down the front of the hose. The red stripe is weathered.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Balaclava

• A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair.

Under Suit

• Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos.

Shoulder Straps

• Shoulder straps are white in color, moderately weathered, with a series of approximately 15, evenly spaced raised rectangular features. 
  • The two front rectangular features are black with one being larger than the other.
• Shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Must be glued in front and free float in the back.
• Must be thin enough to show the chest and back armor on either side.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Shoulder Armor

• Shoulder bells are flat black in color, moderately weathered, symmetrical and feature 26 equally spaced recessed circles that are approximately 1” (25mm) in diameter.
• Recessed circles are comprised of 6 columns with 5 recessed circles in the 2 center columns and 4 recessed circles in the remaining columns.
• A 2” (50mm) gray elastic strap wraps around the inside of the bicep.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There should be a large gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate, with the shoulders hanging mostly over the biceps.
• The holes must be spaced matching the reference images.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Biceps

• Biceps are white, moderately weathered, fully enclosed and have 8 evenly spaced rectangular boxes.
• The inner ring of the bicep is approximately 3/16" (5mm) thick.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Forearms

• Forearms are white, moderately weathered and fully enclosed.
• Two flat, raised ridges approximately 1” (25mm) wide are present around the forearm.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• No return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Hand Plates

• Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material.
• Hand plates are white with moderate weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Gloves

• Black rubber, Nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed and non-textured

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

Chest Armor

• Chest armor is white, moderately weathered and overlaps the abdominal armor.
• A rectangular plate protrudes from the central raised section of the chest armor.
• A stepped hose port, gray in color, is mounted on the front rectangular plate.
• A small hose port, gray in color, is present on the left side of the chest plate.
• A tube is mounted on the bottom of the raised portion of the chest plate.
  • The tube features two grooves, painted black,
  • The raised portion on the right and the tapered hose port on the left are painted black.
• Dark gray ribbed hose that is 7/8" to 1" (22-25mm) diameter on each end and approximately 12" (31cm) of length, running from the chest tube to the side chest hose port.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• Top of the chest plate, at the shoulder, must be flush with the back plate.
• Chest tube is mounted slightly off center to the left of the chest plate.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Back Armor

• Back plate has little to no overlap of the kidney plate.
• Back plate is white and moderately weathered.
• The raised section of the back plate may be flat, as it is obscured by the jet pack.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• Top of the chest plate, at the shoulder, must be flush with the back plate.
• The raised section must feature inset rectangular detailing matching reference photos.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Jet Pack

• Styled after the pack as seen in The Force Unleashed video game. An interpretation of the pack is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged.
• The main fuel tank is flat black and cylindrical with a rounded conical top.
  • Three white bands are present on the tank with the top band wrapping around the entire tank. The top two bands are approximately 1.25” (30mm) wide. The bottom band is approximately 3/4” (20mm) wide.
  • There is a beveled and raised center section that is white in color which starts from the bottom white band of the main fuel tank to half way between the upper two bands. This center section has two recessed rectangular sections.
  • All bands may be either a painted stripe or a flat, raised ridge similar to the forearms.
• Two rocket housings, primarily white in color, are present on each side of the main fuel tank.
  • The upper part of each rocket housing has caps that are flat black in color with a white band that is approximately 3/4” (20mm) wide.
  • The white part of the rocket housings curves downward at the side of each housing and rounds out at the rear facing side of the housing before going back up again towards the inside of the main fuel tank.
  • A gray band, approximately 3/4” (20mm) wide, runs around the midway part of each rocket housing.
  • At the bottom of each rocket housing there is a conical exhaust nozzle that is white in color.
  • All bands may be either a painted stripe or a flat, raised ridge similar to the forearms.
• A curved white pipe that is approximately 1.5" (40mm) in diameter connects each rocket housing to the main fuel tank.
• A pentagonal plate, white in color, is present that the main fuel tank and rocket housings are mounted upon.
• Jet pack is moderately weathered.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.
  • Heavier weathering is present around the top and bottom of each rocket housing.

Abdomen

• The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 flat black buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter.
  • Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos.
• The abdomen armor is white with moderate weathering.
• The cod plate must match reference photos.
  • The cod plate may be integrated with the abdomen armor or a separate piece. If separated, any gap must be fully concealed by the belt.
• A smaller, angular plate is mounted on the top of the main abdomen plate.
  • The small plate is flat black in color and features 12 holes approximately 1” (25mm) in diameter.
  • The chest armor partially overlaps this plate.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed.
• Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed.
• There shall be a return edge that is present on the smaller plate with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
• The smaller plate shall partially obscure the top of the button areas, covering the top buttons.
• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around the cod plate.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.
  • Heavier weathering is present at the top of the abdomen armor and at the top of the cod plate.

Kidney

• The kidney armor is white with moderate weathering.
• The kidney & posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style).
• The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor.
• If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The kidney and posterior armor shall be two separate pieces (ANH style).
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.
  • Heavier weathering is present at the top kidney armor.

Posterior Armor

• The posterior armor is white with moderate weathering.
• The kidney & posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style).

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The kidney and posterior armor shall be two separate pieces (ANH style).
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.
  • Heavier weathering is present at the top of the posterior armor.

Belt

• The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with two square buttons on each end of the belt.
• The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 2” to 3” (50-75mm) wide.
• The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor.
• Two white pouches hang on either side of the belt face.
• Each pouch features two sections with a single flap covering both sections.
• The right pouch is approximately 6.25” x 4.5" x 2" (160mm x 115mm x 50mm).
• The left pouch is approximately 8.625” x 6.125" x 2" (220mm x 155mm x 50mm).
• Ammo belt and belt proper are moderately weathered.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The ammo belt shall have longer ends than standard TK-style belts.
• Only 2 square buttons, one on each end of the belt, are present.
• The corners of the white plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small angle at the top and a large sweeping curve that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt.
• The canvas belt must be 2” (50mm) wide.
• The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Thigh Armor

• The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.
• Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
• The front cover strips are approximately 2” to 2.5” (50-65mm) and run the length of the thigh.
• Rear cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge.
• An additional ridge is present on the outside of the thighs, running to the lower ridge.
• If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams.
• Thigh armor is moderately weathered.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
• The front cover strips shall have an angled cut that meets at a sharp point at the top of the thigh.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Lower Leg Armor

• The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.
• Octagonal knee plates, flat black in color, are present on each shin.
• The right shin features a small ammo belt. This belt can be affixed with Velcro, rivets or glued in place.
• Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
• Lower leg armor is moderately weathered.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The knee plates must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching them to the shins.
• A black flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges of the knee plates.
• The ammo belt must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.
• There shall be a return edge that is present on the ammo belt with a maximum width of 1/4" (6mm) width.
• The ends of the ammo belt shall be free floating from the shin.
• Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.
  • Heavier weathering is present around the bottom edge of the lower leg armor and underneath the knee plates.

Boots

• Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
• A white flap is present on the top of the boot extending over the toe of the boot.
• A smaller black flap is present over the white flap extending roughly halfway down the boot.
• Three reinforcement patches, white in color, are present on the toe of each boot. There is one larger piece at the front, with two smaller pieces at the sides.
• Flat sole with a short heel.
• No buckles or laces. A zipper is allowable on the inside of the boots.
• Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
• Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.
• Boots are moderately weathered.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There is no seam present on the front of the boot.
• Weathering will match style seen in reference photos.

Neck Seal (Optional)

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck.

Rail Detonator (Optional)

• Built to match reference photos.
• Main body is painted flat black with details painted silver.
• Optional: The front fins can be illuminated with red lights or painted to mimic lighting. 

[RAIDER[COTG]]

On it.  Gimme a few days to digest

[Fivezero[TX]]

Also I posted this with the other TFU troopers, as they all share much of the same quirks. We should probably move my build thread over here as well. Just my thoughts.

I'll get a reference photo post going in a minute!

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

I'll take a look at this as well!

[RAIDER[COTG]]

@Fivezero @IcyTrooper I'm going to try and go through a piece at a time in different posts.  Starting with the helmet, I'm going to see if I can get some verification on:

Quote

Helmet

• Single piece lens must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. It can be either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke or dark green.
• A gray stripe runs below the lens. This can be painted or a decal.  (Help me out here please.  I don't see it.)
• The nostrils are black in color.
• The frown must have 4 teeth (I'm counting 6 teeth..yes/no?) cut out and any gray coloring must not leave the indented area. 
  • Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • The indents at the bottom of the frown are black. 
• The valleys on each side of the helmet are painted black.
• The lower tube stripes are gray in color and number 4 per side. These can be either hand painted or decals. The tube stripes connect to longer stripes running to the rear of the helmet and curve up to meet with the valleys.
• The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical bars ending with a radius (?) at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front.
• The ears feature two black pointed details. These can be either hand painted or decals.
• The “power cells” (boxes sticking out from the cheeks) feature a black stripe running around them. The power cell housings feature  gray stripes running around them.
• The aerators are tan (Can you point me to the shot showing them tan please?), and screening must be silver. 
  • The interior of the aerator can either be white or tan. (I'm horrible at colors…but could we say these might be lit or no?  If so, an L2 req?)
• Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) are gray and can be hand painted or decals. 
• A red stripe is offset to the left side of the helmet and runs towards the rear of the dome. The stripe is approximately 1/2” (13mm) wide. 
• Two small red symbols are present next to the dome stripe.
• The visor is attached with gray domed fasteners in the middle of the front traps. (Make mention that the gray of the traps is visible around this part of the visor?  L2 or not at all?)     
  • The visor has  horizontal gray bars on each side, running from the rear and stopping short of the front.

My additional question…can we/should we detail those power cells?

Helmet Hose

• Black ribbed hose that is 1.75" (45mm) diameter and 10" to 16" (200mm to 400mm) of length from the helmet hose port to the front chest hose port.
• Hose features a red stripe approximately 20mm wide (Ok to specify running down the front-center?).

I think that's it for these.  Once cleared, I will move to the armor parts.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

@RAIDER I'm out of town for work right now so I'll get to it on Friday  

[Fivezero[TX]]

Alright here's my response!

1. Gray Stripe, kinda hard to see due to the weathering/lighting. Here's a pic.

2. Hmm, the teeth....... Taking another look at it, on the right side (as you're wearing it) it looks like only two teeth are cut out vs. three on the left side. Trying to remember my thought process, I think I interpreted it as weathering at the time. The "maybe here too" cutout is right at the edge next to "indents." So I think I just wrote it off and kept it at 4 cutouts. Up to you guys, though. Maybe four cutouts for L1, extra for L2?

3. "The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical bars that are rounded at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front."  How's that?

4. Here's a shot showing the aerators, they're a different color (slightly yellower) to the helmet so I chose tan (beige or something similar).

I'd say no to the aerators being lit. The heavy weathering gives them some contrast that might look like lighting. I think keeping it simple and having it be the same/lighter color on the inside is the way to go.

5. Yeah it might useful to say that the trap is visible beneath the visor. Doesn't matter me whether its L1 or L2.

6. Wasn't sure how detailed we wanted to get on the power cells. How about this?

"The “power cells” (boxes sticking out from the cheeks) consist of two smaller boxes with rounded corners and recesses on each end. A black stripe runs around each smaller box. The power cell housings feature gray stripes running around them."

7. On the hose, yep sounds good to mention it running down the front.

"Hose features a red stripe approximately 20mm wide, centered and running down the front of the hose."

 

So there are my thoughts on everything. Let me know what you guys think and I'll update the text above!

[RAIDER[COTG]]

1 hour ago, Fivezero said:

Alright here's my response!

1. Gray Stripe, kinda hard to see due to the weathering/lighting. Here's a pic.

2. Hmm, the teeth....... Taking another look at it, on the right side (as you're wearing it) it looks like only two teeth are cut out vs. three on the left side. Trying to remember my thought process, I think I interpreted it as weathering at the time. The "maybe here too" cutout is right at the edge next to "indents." So I think I just wrote it off and kept it at 4 cutouts. Up to you guys, though. Maybe four cutouts for L1, extra for L2?

3. "The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical bars that are rounded at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front."  How's that?

4. Here's a shot showing the aerators, they're a different color (slightly yellower) to the helmet so I chose tan (beige or something similar).

I'd say no to the aerators being lit. The heavy weathering gives them some contrast that might look like lighting. I think keeping it simple and having it be the same/lighter color on the inside is the way to go.

5. Yeah it might useful to say that the trap is visible beneath the visor. Doesn't matter me whether its L1 or L2.

6. Wasn't sure how detailed we wanted to get on the power cells. How about this?

"The “power cells” (boxes sticking out from the cheeks) consist of two smaller boxes with rounded corners and recesses on each end. A black stripe runs around each smaller box. The power cell housings feature gray stripes running around them."

 

7. On the hose, yep sounds good to mention it running down the front.

"Hose features a red stripe approximately 20mm wide, centered and running down the front of the hose."

 

So there are my thoughts on everything. Let me know what you guys think and I'll update the text above!

Im good with the changes.

For the teeth lets say 4 to 6 and leave it.  For the traps, yes lets add the visible gray around the visor attachment point. Im leaning to an L1 req there.

Lastly, power cells...are there antennas or anything like that protruding?

[Fivezero[TX]]

Sounds great! I'll get the changes incorporated tomorrow. Just to confirm, I'm cutting another hole on each side of the frown where the wrench ends, correct? Just want to make sure before I cut my helmet...

And here's what I'm calling "power cells." The part that protrudes is the "power cell."

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

I'd say the 4-6 teeth cutout is good for the basic for sure and that that cut wouldn't affect it.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Ah i see what you guys are saying about the teeth, sorry been an exhausting week (the brain's a bit worn out....). Just to make sure, here's what I'm writing for the helmet. Changes/additions in red. Thanks guys!

 

Helmet

• Single piece lens must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. It can be either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke or dark green.
• A gray stripe runs below the lens. This can be painted or a decal.
• The nostrils are black in color.
• The frown must have 4 to 6 teeth cut out and any gray coloring must not leave the indented area.
  • Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • The indents at the bottom of the frown are black.
• The valleys on each side of the helmet are painted black.
• The lower tube stripes are gray in color and number 4 per side. These can be either hand painted or decals. The tube stripes connect to longer stripes running to the rear of the helmet and curve up to meet with the valleys.
• The upper cheek on each side features 2 vertical black bars that are rounded at the top. The rear bar is slightly taller than the front.
• The ears feature two black pointed details. These can be either hand painted or decals.
• The "power cells" (boxes sticking out from the cheeks) consist of two smaller boxes with rounded corners and recessed at the top. A black stripe runs around each of the smaller boxes. The power cell housings are recessed for the power cells and feature gray stripes running around them.
• The aerators are tan, and screening must be silver.
  • The interior of the aerator can either be white or tan.
• Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) are gray and can be hand painted or decals.
• A red stripe is offset to the left side of the helmet and runs towards the rear of the dome. The stripe is approximately 1/2” (13mm) wide.
• Two small red symbols are present next to the dome stripe.
• The visor is attached with gray domed fasteners in the middle of the front traps.  The visor attachment tab should be slightly smaller than the traps allowing the traps to be partially visible.
  • The visor has gray stripes on each side, running horizontally from the rear and stopping short of the front.
  • Red symbols similar to the dome symbols are present on each side with a red bar offset. On the left side, the bar is positioned at the rear of the visor. On the right side, the bar is positioned at the front of the visor. Somehow this didn't get copied over in the first post.
• The hose port is gray in color with a red stripe approximately 20mm wide running down the front. Somehow this didn't get copied over when I made the first post.

Helmet Hose

• Black ribbed hose that is 1.75" (45mm) diameter and 10" to 16" (200mm to 400mm) of length from the helmet hose port to the front chest hose port.
• Hose features a red stripe approximately 20mm wide, centered and running down the front of the hose.

 

[RAIDER[COTG]]

That looks good.  When I get home from work I will post the next set

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

I'm good with the additions! The only clean-up stuff I'd say is as follows:

In the helmet hose section the 20mm needs to read 3/4" (20mm) in the second bullet.

In the helmet hose section the I'd say we up those to centimeters since it is a large measurement with the inches. It'd read 10" to 16" (25-40cm) and will align to our CRL editing guide.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Sounds good! Great catch on the hose, forgot I wanted to add the 3/4". I'll get everything updated in a sec!

[RAIDER[COTG]]

Quote

Shoulder Straps

• These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.
• These are white in color with the two front raised details being painted black. (black or gray?  for my eyes I see gray opposed to the black of the undersuit)

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• These shall be glued in front.

 

Shoulder Armor

• One on each shoulder, flat black in color, featuring (approximately…can we add this if anyone needs to size up or size down?  Do we need a spacing approximation between holes?) 26 holes that are 1” (25mm) in diameter.
• The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.
• Shoulders have a 2” (50mm) gray elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There should be a large gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate, with the shoulders hanging mostly over the biceps. 

 

Biceps

• Biceps are white in color.
• Biceps feature a cog design, with 8 rectangular protrusions.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width.

 

Forearms

• Forearms are fully sealed and closed.
• Forearms are white in color.
• Two straps approximately 1” (25mm) wide are present around the forearm. Can you describe these straps for me?  I see what looks like gray lines going around the forearms..are those representing white straps?

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms.

 

Hand Plates

• Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. 
• Hand plates are white in color. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. 

 

Gloves

• Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

Jumping to the arms.  Skipped undersuit.  Neck seal though…can we verify one is there?  If not, thoughts on making it an optional?  I'm game either way but wanted to see what you thought.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Shoulder Straps - I definitely lean to flat black, here's another shot. This is the problem with this game, you can shift to one angle and it looks gray, another and its black. In general, it looks darker than what we can definitively say is gray such as the helmet and chest hose port.

Shoulders- Sure, sounds good. Wasn't sure how detailed you guys wanted to get regarding the spacing. Basically, it's going to be a big section if we do, or I need to make up a layout or something. The spacing is funky and not a nice even "1 inch between holes." Let me know what you guys want to do and I can get something made or written up.

Forearms - Yep, those gray lines are basically "shadow" for the straps. The straps aren't physically there on the model, but those shadows create depth. It's the same as the edge trim on the torso armor or the detail on the hand plates. It's being represented by a line "painted" on the model to create an illusion that something is there. Here's a couple shots of my forearms, showing the real world look. This will get enhanced by weathering of course.

 

Neck Seal - Just checked and there's not one. I just threw it on there for commonality with other troopers. Doesn't matter to me either way.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Shoulder Straps: I think the gray works, I can see the shine of it on that photo you provided; looks like the angle in that pic. I checked the other reference photos and it does go with what you said.

Shoulders: I believe with the circles we can add a gallery image for each of them to show how they are setup and state that they should match the reference photos or gallery photos as the spacing between circles is not equidistant...or better yet! May be can as a L2 detail have them appear as the reference images or allow for equal spacing for L1?

Forearms: I concur with the painting to provide the illusion that they are raised rather than modeling. I have checked over the reference photos and each angle supports them being actually raised.

Neck Seal: I'd like to make a motion for this to be optional as there is nothing on the reference images. However, I'd strongly suggest that we do something that prevents the face/head of the wearer being seen in the submission photos as we don't see face textures in the reference images either.

[RAIDER[COTG]]

So to summarize:

1) Black on shoulder straps.

2) Shoulders. The other idea is to keep the 26 exact and allow for more flex (“approximately”) on the hole size so thats whats adjusted for bigger/smaller troopers.  As far as spacing, looks like all the holes are at least in “rows” yes?  Maybe list out how many are in each row...and that they are equally spaced in their row???  Thats what it appears to be.  Correct me if Im wrong.

3) Forearms.  Check.  So in the draft, it calls those straps...but the piece looks more like “raised rings” or “ridges”?  When I read strap I think of a fabric or leather bit there which we dont want correct?

4) Neck seal.  We can bump to optional BUT if we do so we need to maybe add balaclava so the area is at least concealed.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Hey, was just about to post a summary, beat me to it!

1. Shoulder Straps - I was going to say we can make them gray or black, sound good?

"These are white in color with the two front raised details being painted either gray or flat black."

 

2. Shoulders - I'm good with equal spacing for L1 and exact spacing for L2.

• One on each shoulder, flat black in color, featuring 26 holes that are approximately 1” (25mm) in diameter.
  • The holes are arranged in 6 columns with four holes in the first two and last two columns and 5 holes in the two center columns.
  • The holes can be equally spaced from each other.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The holes must be spaced matching the reference images. - I can make a layout with this spacing when I get around to taking pictures, if you guys think that would help.

 

3. Forearms - I called them straps, cause that's what I called them on the EVO Trooper. I see what you're saying though, how about this:

       "Two flat, raised ridges approximately 1” (25mm) wide are present around the forearm."

 

4. Neck Seal - I'm cool with making it optional. Definitely need to add a balaclava though. Stole this from the TIE Pilot CRL.

Balaclava

• A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair.

 

[RAIDER[COTG]]

All that looks good and yes a shoulder diagram of some sort to toss in the crl gallery would be amazing. you can adjust those bits and i will post the next sections for review

[RAIDER[COTG]]

Just now, RAIDER said:

All that looks good and yes a shoulder diagram of some sort to toss in the crl gallery would be amazing. you can adjust those bits and i will post the next sections for review

I think for consistency sake and you provided enough evidence to satisfy me...black only on the shoulder straps is good

[RAIDER[COTG]]

Moving on to the torso parts...

Quote

Chest Armor

• Chest armor, white in color, overlaps the abdominal armor. Can we add a line about the "box" itself on the chest armor that hose attaches to?  Other than that, all seems good.
• A stepped hose port, gray in color, is present on the front of the chest plate. 
• A small hose port, gray in color, is present on the left side of the chest plate. 
• A tube is mounted on the bottom of the raised portion of the chest plate.
  • The tube features two grooves, painted black, 
  • The raised portion on the right and the tapered hose port on the left are painted black.
• A gray hose runs from the chest side hose port to the tube port. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• Chest tube is mounted slightly off center to the left of the chest plate.

 

Chest Hose

• Gray ribbed hose that is 7/8" to 1" (22mm to 25mm) diameter on each end and approximately 12" (31cm) of length, running from the chest tube to the side chest hose port. Gray or flat black?

 

Back Armor

• Back plate has little or no overlap of the kidney plate. 
• Back plate is white in color. 
• The raised section of the back plate may be flat, as it is obscured by the jet pack. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• The raised section must feature inset rectangular detailing matching reference photos.

The only other thing I noticed and not sure if it would go in chest area or back…the shoulder joins are flush with one another and fully visible under those shoulder straps (meaning the width of the shoulder straps does not conceal the edges of those shoulder joins).  Possible to add that in L2 for one or the either or both?  That might also be an add to the straps in L2 as well.  The straps also seem to free float in the back…and so looking back I think we should add that as an L2 that they must free float back there.

Other than that we are good…and probably good idea @Fivezero as you did that EVO CRL which has similarities to make note of all the things we do here that could be carried over and tweaked on the EVO for good alignment of both.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Yeah wasn't sure if we wanted to add anything on the chest/back being flush. I say we make it L2 for sure. Here's the revised text.

 

Shoulder Straps

• These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.
• These are white in color with the two front raised details being painted black.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• These shall be glued in front, and must free float in the back.
• The shoulder straps must be thin enough to show the chest and back armor on either side.

Chest Armor

• Chest armor, white in color, overlaps the abdominal armor.
• A rectangular plate protrudes from the central raised section of the chest armor.
• A stepped hose port, gray in color, is mounted on the front rectangular plate.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• Chest tube is mounted slightly off center to the left of the chest plate.
• Chest plate must be flush with the back plate, with no visible seams or gaps. - Do we want to mention anything about seams/gaps?

Back Armor

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• The raised section must feature inset rectangular detailing matching reference photos.
• Back plate must be flush with the chest plate, with no visible seams or gaps. - Do we want to mention anything about seams/gaps?

 

Chest Hose - I settled on gray as it looks lighter than the chest tube it attaches to. Maybe go with a dark gray here?

[RAIDER[COTG]]

1 hour ago, Fivezero said:

Yeah wasn't sure if we wanted to add anything on the chest/back being flush. I say we make it L2 for sure. Here's the revised text.

 

Shoulder Straps

• These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.
• These are white in color with the two front raised details being painted black.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• These shall be glued in front, and must free float in the back.
• The shoulder straps must be thin enough to show the chest and back armor on either side.

Chest Armor

• Chest armor, white in color, overlaps the abdominal armor.
• A rectangular plate protrudes from the central raised section of the chest armor.
• A stepped hose port, gray in color, is mounted on the front rectangular plate.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• Chest tube is mounted slightly off center to the left of the chest plate.
• Chest plate must be flush with the back plate, with no visible seams or gaps. - Do we want to mention anything about seams/gaps?

Back Armor

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges.
• The raised section must feature inset rectangular detailing matching reference photos.
• Back plate must be flush with the chest plate, with no visible seams or gaps. - Do we want to mention anything about seams/gaps?

 

Chest Hose - I settled on gray as it looks lighter than the chest tube it attaches to. Maybe go with a dark gray here?

Hose.  Sure.  Dark gray.

Seams/gaps…Where we see it flush is specifically at those shoulder joins, so I think just specify that…because the area below the armpits appears to be loose and free floating.  I don't see any rivets, straps, etc. there holding those flush and tight.  Unless you're saying those shoulder joins should be fused so back and armor are essentially connected into one?

[Fivezero[TX]]

Yeah that's what I was thinking, shoulder joins are smooth. But I agree, let's keep it simple and get rid of any mention of no seams/gaps. How's this?

"Top of the chest plate, at the shoulder, must be flush with the back plate."