DLT-19x 3D print build

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

So I just finished a DLT-19x build for my Del Meeko, and thought I'd copy my build thread over from the Irish Garrison in case it comes in handy for anyone here.  It's the first time I've build and painted a 1:1 prop, so it was very much a learning process but I was happy with the end result.  I'll split various parts of the build between replies to keep some structure to it all.  I started off with a 3D print of the necessary parts from Breaking the Mold here in Ireland.  I know PLA plastic has a reputation for being quite brittle, and this is a huge rifle, so I decided early on that it needed some internal supports.  Jimmy kindly printed a 1/2" channel through the middle that an aluminium tube could be inserted through (found on Ebay), while the barrel was to be supported by a thin steel 1 1/4" tube kindly donated by my GCO Chris.  The steel tube has an acrylic disk insert so that it can be fed onto the aluminium tube sticking out of the receiver (ie. so the two pieces can be stored disassembled).

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

The first major job was the sanding, so I started off with an 80 grit sanding bit on the end of a power drill.  Then I used some 220 grit wet and dry paper to do some wet sanding over everything.  Finally I used some modelling files to sand down some of the smaller and more detailed parts.

Once all this was done, I glued together the barrel, the scope, and the stock/receiver in 3 separate sections.

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

As expected, there were a few gaps in the model after assembly, so I used some Isopon car body filler to deal with this.  It was quite straightforward to mix and apply, and once it was dry I sanded it down with some more wet and dry paper.

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

Once everything was clean and dry, I applied the first coat of paint using two spray cans of AK microfiller primer.  To be honest this stuff is meant more for small miniature work and it felt a bit of a waste.  After I applied a regular coat of Rust-Oleum grey primer over the top however, I quite liked the slightly rough effect it gave.  It had the look of a roughly machined blaster that had already had some wear and tear in the field.  This was amplified once I gave it a final priming coat of Army Paint gunmetal spray.

Once dry, I glued on the scope (should really have been done before painting!) and the T-tracks on the barrel.

Then I got my airbrush and got to work, after first masking off everything that I wanted to remain a bright gunmetal colour.  Then I used a Vallejo matt "NATO black" for the stock, and a mix of that "NATO black" and an Army Painter "gunmetal" which I sprayed very lightly onto the lower part of the receiver, the grip, the scope, and the middle sections of the barrel.  I used it a little heavier on the barrel.

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

Next on to the fun part, weathering!  I used some Tamiya weathering pigments with a sponge applicator, plus some regular Vallejo acrylics with a drybrush, and picked out all of the edges of the darker "metals" with a brighter gunmetal.  The same techniques were also used to create the appearance of some scratching and rubbing of the darker paint.  I also applied some Vallejo "carbon" pigments to the muzzle to simulate some blaster scoring.  Once all was dry, I brushed on a very heavy coat of Vallejo "dark grey" model wash (slightly diluted), all over the model.  After letting it sit for a few minutes, I used some paper towels to rub off the excess.  I repeated this process again over all of the lighter "gunmetal" parts to darken them even further.  I also airbrushed on a Vallejo "semi matt aluminium" metallic paint to the collar between the stock and the receiver.

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

The lenses for the scope were quite tricky.  Originally I planned to try and replicate a scope with proper lenses, but the cost of this was a little too high for this project.  In the end I found some very thick blister pack style packaging from something, and cut out two circular lenses from that.  I tried first to fix them using hot glue, but it only made a mess and the lenses wouldn't stick.  Having already made a mess, I decided just to use superglue.  It held the lenses firmly, but as expected gave off that misty white residue as it dried, confirming that I wouldn't be able to have properly transparent lenses.  Having checked the scope in Battlefront 2, I saw it had a green tint to the optics, so I mixed up a mid range green acrylic paint and applied a light coating over both lenses.  Once dry I very carefully applied a satin varnish.

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

The final big job was the red ring around the scope - and I've no idea why I left it until the end to address.  I masked off the ring and airbrushed on a red acrylic, but I thinned the paint too much and it ran under the masking tape.  In the end I had to tidy everything up with a brush, but it came out okay.  I then applied several thin coats of satin varnish by airbrush, each about 4 hours apart (except for the stock, on which I used an ultra matt varnish).  I made a few more tweaks after taking the pictures below, and I'll probably keep tweaking the weathering for a while to come.  All in all though, I'm very happy with the result.  I'll add some new photos in costume after I next kit up!

[Dropkick[CMD-XO]]

Thanks Daniel for posting this here.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Thanks for this awesome build thread!

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

First full kit up with my new DLT

[Halycon[PR-CMD]]

can be deleted

 

 

 

[Halycon[PR-CMD]]

Nice job Dan!

I have this solution for a scope, done to my DLT20a, all you need is *first degree fx decals and lense* (they are on facebook and the costs were 23€ incl, shipping from UK to germany)

First of all put a decal inside the scope, then cut a strip of velcro and put it arround the lense. Next you place the lense inside the scope. Now all you need is a rubber sealing ring and place it over the lense. This way you dont need no glue and can avoid the misty white residue and also it looks like you have a small digital dislpay on the lense... 

cheers TX-77239 out!

 

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

22 hours ago, Halycon said:

Nice job Dan!

I have this solution for a scope, done to my DLT20a, all you need is *first degree fx decals and lense* (they are on facebook and the costs were 23€ incl, shipping from UK to germany)

First of all put a decal inside the scope, then cut a strip of velcro and put it arround the lense. Next you place the lense inside the scope. Now all you need is a rubber sealing ring and place it over the lense. This way you dont need no glue and can avoid the misty white residue and also it looks like you have a small digital dislpay on the lense... 

cheers TX-77239 out!

 

Cheers for the great advice! What were you using for the transparent part of the lens, and where did you find one the right size?

[Halycon[PR-CMD]]

There is a vendor on Facebook called "First Degree FX" , the size of the lense is 22mm , thats regular  for an E-11 and the reason why i put the velcro arround it, the scope of my DLT20a is like 28mm on the inside.

If you have it inside your scope with the rubber sealing over it, you dont see a difference to a real scope.

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

On 4/29/2021 at 7:59 AM, Halycon said:

There is a vendor on Facebook called "First Degree FX" , the size of the lense is 22mm , thats regular  for an E-11 and the reason why i put the velcro arround it, the scope of my DLT20a is like 28mm on the inside.

If you have it inside your scope with the rubber sealing over it, you dont see a difference to a real scope.

Unfortunately he doesn't have ones big enough for the DLT-19x scope. I need approx 37mm for the rear and 60mm for the front. I've ordered some cheap cabochons and o-rings off Ali Express, so I'll see what I can do with those once they arrive.

[Codiferous[TX]]

Fantastic build! May I ask where you got the files for it?

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

On 6/25/2021 at 11:13 PM, Codiferous said:

Fantastic build! May I ask where you got the files for it?

Sorry for the very, very late reply! I didn't actually print it myself, I got it from a 3d printer in Ireland who's regularly used by own Garrison for props.