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SCAR Squadron Cav CRL Discussion


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Starting this off here.  Some parts left purposely TBD as placeholders for discussion.  Reference pics can be pulled as the discussions progress.  I borrowed text for shared TK parts from our Shadow Stormtrooper CRL primarily…and the current ANH TK CRL if needed.  I adjusted parts with some details I noticed in references…then there will be other ANH TK details we need to decide on whether to keep or not being the comic references don't explicitly show them but we may possibly want to keep for continuity and/or kit conversions…or not.

Lastly, this build is based on the Issues 59-61 arc and I tried to stick only to those references. I would say that there could potentially be 4 unique versions of this character…and technically this would be Version 3…but for now, being it would be the first completed and only version, we don't need to name it as a version.  Here we go...

 

Helmet

Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black or dark green.

The body of the "ears" are gray. The bars have three or four bumps.

Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).

Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present.

Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer.

The tube stripes are blue or black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals.

Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.

The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening is silver. The interior of the aerator is white.

Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals.

Tears and traps are gray in color. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

Helmet must have cut/scratch/slash weathering.  "X" slashes shall be visible on the left forehead area above the black trim.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Lenses are bubbled.

Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.

Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.

Tube stripes are black in color.

Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.

Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh.

Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile.

 

Neck Seal

Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. 

 

Under Suit

Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. 

 

Shoulder Straps

These shall be securely mounted in front and shall free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.

Straps texture is smooth. No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps and no elastic is used to secure straps in the back.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Straps shall be glued in front.

Straps shall be taper in thickness, being thinner at the front and back ends.

 

Shoulder Armor

Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.

LEFT SHOULDER TBD

Right shoulder is smooth in appearance similar to a scout trooper shoulder bell.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate.

 

Biceps

Biceps are fully closed.

Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width.

 

Forearms

Forearms are fully sealed and closed.

Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms.

 

Hand Plates

Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted black and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching.

 

Gloves

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

 

Chest Armor

Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor.

Chest is smooth in appearance.

KNIVES SHEATH CHESTPAD TEXT TBD

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).

Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps.

 

Back Armor

Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).

 

Abdomen Armor
ABDOMEN ARMOR DESCRIPTION TBD

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed.

There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor.

 

Codpiece

CODPIECE ARMOR DESCRIPTION TBD

 

Kidney Armor

The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style).

If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor.

The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Kidney armor is separate from posterior armor (ANH style).

There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor.

Cut-out notches at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 7/8" (22mm) tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate.

 

Posterior Armor

The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Posterior armor is separate from kidney armor (ANH style).

There are no visible snaps on the lower center tab.

 

Belt

BELT DESCRIPTION TBA

The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide.

The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

 

Pouches

POUCH DESCRIPTION TBD

 

Thermal Detonator

(A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt.

Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2” to 2.68” (50-68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap.

The total length is approximately 7.5” (190.5mm).

No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed.

The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1” (25mm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted.

Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.

Belt clips shall be made of metal.

 

Thigh Armor

The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.

The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh using glue or rivets.

The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.

Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.

Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back.

If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams.

RIGHT THIGH ARMOR KNIFE SHEATH DESCRIPTION TBD

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
The thigh ammo belt is attached without visible rivets.

Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

 

Lower Leg Armor

The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin.

Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin.

The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.

Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

 

Boots

Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.

Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.

Flat sole with a short heel.

No buckles or laces.

Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.

Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

 

Optional Accessories

Knives

KNIVES DESCRIPTION TBD

 

E-11 Blaster

Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy.

Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
Folding stock.

Stock does not need to function.

A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present.

D-ring mounted on the rear.

Correct style scope.

Two power cylinders on the magazine.

Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).

If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.

This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

Link to comment

This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized):

  • Helmet
  • Neck Seal
  • Under Suit
  • Shoulder Straps
  • Shoulder Armor
  • Biceps
  • Forearms
  • Hand Plates
  • Gloves
  • Chest Armor
  • Back Armor
  • Abdomen Armor
  • Kidney Armor
  • Posterior Armor
  • Belt
  • Pouches
  • Thermal Detonator
  • Thigh Armor
  • Lower Leg Armor
  • Boots
  • Knives (Optional)
  • E-11 Blaster (Optional)

------------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------

Description: Cav
Prefix: TX
Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment
Context: Marvel Comics — Star Wars

Cav is a Special Commando Advanced Recon (SCAR) trooper in Task Force 99, a squad within the Galactic Empire's Stormtrooper Corps. Cav served as the squad's melee specialist, capable of attacking targets in close quarters combat. Cav participated in Task Force 99's mission to the Ghost Moon in order to take care of a group of Rebels hiding there.

For 501st membership only the requirements listed in black need to be met.

Black text indicates a feature that is required for approval. Blue text denotes requirements for Level 2 "Specialist," but is not required for basic approval. Visit the Spec Ops website for a full description of these standards.

Special Notes:

  • The armor parts shall be gloss or semi-gloss white unless specified otherwise in the CRL text.
  • Weathering of this costume is MANDATORY consisting of physical scratches and gouges; NOT surface weathering techniques such as painting or scuffing. All weathering will be consistent across the costume with no piece/s standing out from the others.
  • Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials:
    • Fiberglass
    • ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
    • HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)
    • PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing)
    • Polyurethane Rubber
  • Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy.
  • 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed.

--------------------------------------------

Helmet

  • Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black or dark green.
  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.
  • The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area.
    • Acceptable color is gray.
    • Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • The tube stripes are blue or black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening is silver.
    • The interior of the aerator is white.
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals.
    • Acceptable color is gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • There is a singular "X" slash/cut/scratch visible on the left forehead area above the black trim, matching the reference images.
  • The helmet will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Lenses are bubbled.
  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.
  • Tube stripes are black in color.
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
    • Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh.
  • Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile.

Neck Seal

  • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. 

Under Suit

  • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos.

Shoulder Straps

  • These shall be securely mounted in front and shall free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.
  • Straps texture is smooth. No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps and no elastic is used to secure straps in the back.
  • The shoulder straps will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Straps shall be glued in front.
  • Straps shall taper in thickness, being thinner at the front and back ends.

Shoulder Armor

  • Left shoulder is uniquely shaped with the following details:
    • Rounds out at the top closest to the shoulder.
    • On the inside and outside there is a trapezoidal section that protrudes out.
    • The bottom is angled and not rounded.
    • On the top of the shoulder there is a raised detail that resembles an intake/scoop that matches the references material.
  • Right shoulder is smooth in appearance similar to a scout trooper shoulder bell.
  • The left shoulder is larger than the right shoulder and sits higher than the right shoulder due to its size.
  • Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.
  • The shoulder armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate.

Biceps

  • Biceps are fully closed.
  • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
  • The biceps will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
  • There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width.

Forearms

  • Forearms are fully sealed and closed.
  • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
  • The forearms will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
  • There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms.

Hand Plates

  • Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material.
  • The hand plates will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching.

Gloves

  • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

Chest Armor

  • Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor.
  • Chest is smooth in appearance.
  • There is a knives sheath/chest pad in the center of the chest that is made out of leather or leather-like material and has an irregular hexagon shape with the following details:
    • The bottom of the knives sheath is curved following the bottom of the chest armor.
    • There are three (3) knife sheaths equally spaced along the chest pad and house each knife's blade.
    • On each sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional.
    • Within each pouch there is a knife or if local law prohibits the use of prop knives then the following details are present:
      • Each sheath has the appearance of being full with a knife.
      • Each sheath has the only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch.
  • There is no visible method of attachment of the knives sheath/chest pad to the chest armor.
  • The chest armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
  • Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps.

Back Armor

  • Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate.
  • The back armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8 inches (0.9cm).

Abdomen Armor

  • The abdomen and cod piece may be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate.
  • Cod piece is white in color.
  • There are two raised lines which run up the center of the abdomen armor up under the chest armor. This center section of the armor is white and on each side there are recessed lines that split the white from black towards the sides of the abdomen armor. These recessed lines are diagonal and get wider the further up armor they go and narrow as they go towards the cod piece.
  • There are no visible snaps or rivets.
  • Abdomen armor must match in-comic references.
  • The abdomen armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor.
  • There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed.
  • There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor.

Kidney Armor

  • The kidney armor is separate from the posterior armor (ANH style) and lines up with the abdomen armor.
  • The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor.
  • The kidney armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

Posterior Armor

  • The posterior armor is separate from the kidney armor (ANH style).
  • The posterior armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

Belt

  • Belt armor is approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall and divided into 1.75" (44.5mm) wide segments, ending on the hips of the wearer.
    • The front armor segments have a key/slot detail.
  • The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide.
  • Belt pouches are mounted at the hips, covering where the belt armor terminates to the soft belt proper.
  • The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached.
  • The belt armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

Pouches

  • There are two black medium-sized Spanish pouches that are worn on each side of the hip.
  • Each pouch has the following approximate dimensions: 3.5" x 6” x 2" (88.9mm x 152.4mm x 50.8mm).
  • Pouches are closed with a white pull tab that is approximately 1" (25.4mm) and not a snap or button.
  • Any stitching on the pouch is black.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Pouches appear full.

Thermal Detonator

  • (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt.
  • Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2 to 2.68 inches (5 to 6.8cm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap.
  • The total length is approximately 7.5 inches (19cm).
  • No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed.
  • The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1 inch (2.5cm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted.
  • Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.
  • Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be silver.

Thigh Armor

  • The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.
  • The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh.
    • It may be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. It may be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16 inches (0.8cm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed.
  • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off.
  • On the right thigh there is a knife sheath with the following details:
    • The sheath is in proportion to the wearer and matches the sheaths on the chest pad. If local law prohibits the use of prop knives, then the following details are present:
      • The sheath has the appears of being full with a knife.
      • The sheath has only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch.
    • On the sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional.
    • The sheath is held on the right thigh by a singular strap or two straps. The strap color will be black and they will be made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material.
      • If utilizing a singular strap then it is approximately 4” (101.6mm) wide.
      • If utilizing two straps then each strap is approximately 2” (50.8mm) wide.
  • Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
  • Cover strips must end at the top of the lower ridge in front and back.
  • If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, and should be flush without seams.
  • The thigh armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable):

  • The thigh ammo belt is not attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener. There is no visible method of attachment.
  • Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

Lower Leg Armor

  • The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin.
  • Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
  • The lower leg armor will be moderately weathered. See special notes for permissible weathering.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin.
  • The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.
  • Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

Boots

  • Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
  • Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle.
  • Flat sole with a short heel.
  • No buckles or laces.
  • Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
  • Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

Knives

  • Each knife is similar in appearance to that of a Bowie knife and matches the reference photos.
  • The handle and guard of the knife is flat black and has finger grooves present. There shall be no pins/rivets on the handle. 
  • The blade itself is serrated from the guard to about halfway outward towards the end of the knife. After the serrated edge it is beveled/grinded to form a point at the end.
  • There is a recessed portion on each side of the blade nearest the guard and a separate pointed section on the top of each blade.
  • The blade itself should be a silver or silver metallic color resembling metal.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • The blade is painted a silver metallic color or in a finish that resembles metal.

E-11 Blaster
Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy.

  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Folding stock.
    • Stock does not need to function.
  • A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Correct style scope.
  • Two power cylinders on the magazine.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.
    • This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

 

Link to comment

So, I updated the list to have the finalized text for the Neck Seal, Under Suit and Gloves since the are standardized text. I am going to post the Helmet for us to review:

NOTE: I did a few changes to get the text a little more aligned to Sgt. Kreel. Also added the little thing at the end of the L1 text last bullet point so that a reference is drawn to the images. We can put reference image for that into the CRL gallery and zoom in on it for the GMLs.

Helmet

  • Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black or dark green.
  • The body of the "ears" are gray. The bars have three or four bumps.
  • Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
  • The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area.
    • Acceptable color is gray.
    • Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • The tube stripes are blue or black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening is silver.
    • The interior of the aerator is white.
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals.
    • Acceptable color is gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • Helmet must have cut/scratch/slash weathering.  "X" slashes shall be visible on the left forehead area above the black trim, matching the reference images.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Lenses are bubbled.
  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.
  • Tube stripes are black in color.
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
    • Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh.
  • Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile.
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No issues from me.  Maybe it should be X slash singular…or mark…as there is just one defined X in all the references.  Or 2 slashes in an X pattern.  I dunno…the way I initially wrote it, looking now, sounds like someone could take that to mean multiple Xs

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19 hours ago, RAIDER said:

No issues from me.  Maybe it should be X slash singular…or mark…as there is just one defined X in all the references.  Or 2 slashes in an X pattern.  I dunno…the way I initially wrote it, looking now, sounds like someone could take that to mean multiple Xs

I read that as well now that I went back. I updated it to have new text:

Helmet

  • Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black or dark green.
  • The body of the "ears" are gray. The bars have three or four bumps.
  • Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
  • The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area.
    • Acceptable color is gray.
    • Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer.
  • The tube stripes are blue or black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals.
  • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black.
  • The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening is silver.
    • The interior of the aerator is white.
  • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals.
    • Acceptable color is gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.
  • There is a singular "X" slash/cut/scratch visible on the left forehead area above the black trim, matching the reference images.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Lenses are bubbled.
  • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.
  • Ear bars have four bumps only, not three.
  • Tube stripes are black in color.
  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips.
    • Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh.
  • Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile.
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Better.

Edit: Putting helmet shots here…one thing to note, the lines in the traps dont seem visible here and Im having difficulty seeing them in other arcs even.

VFUyg7d.jpg

cFbJTDQ.jpg

WxtOwmG.png

 

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Okay so I finalized that one for now! Here we go for the Shoulder Straps and Shoulder Armor:

Shoulder Straps

  • These shall be securely mounted in front and shall free float in the back. They can be affixed with Velcro or adhesive.
  • Straps texture is smooth. No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps and no elastic is used to secure straps in the back.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Straps shall be glued in front.
  • Straps shall taper in thickness, being thinner at the front and back ends.

Shoulder Armor

  • Left shoulder is uniquely shaped with the following details:
    • Rounds out at the top closest to the shoulder.
    • On the inside and outside there is a hexagonal section that protrudes out.
    • On the top of the shoulder there is a raised detail that resembles an intake/scoop that matches the references material.
  • Right shoulder is smooth in appearance similar to a scout trooper shoulder bell.
  • Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate.
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References for left bell…

VsADIsX.jpg wuKfOIa.jpg BshNm4z.jpg


Right bell and you can see the smooth shoulder strap of sorts w tapering…

eiDO6Mj.jpg VFUyg7d.jpg

Thats the only line i see needing a spelling correction… be tapered or remove be.

I think for Level 1 maybe a line for the left indicating it should be raised and sit higher above the neck line.  For Level 2 that there is an inner bell (though I think to get the raising an inner bell is going to be necessary regardless…but it is a detail that can go unseen).

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26 minutes ago, RAIDER said:

References for left bell…

VsADIsX.jpg wuKfOIa.jpg BshNm4z.jpg


Right bell and you can see the smooth shoulder strap of sorts w tapering…

eiDO6Mj.jpg VFUyg7d.jpg

Thats the only line i see needing a spelling correction… be tapered or remove be.

I think for Level 1 maybe a line for the left indicating it should be raised and sit higher above the neck line.  For Level 2 that there is an inner bell (though I think to get the raising an inner bell is going to be necessary regardless…but it is a detail that can go unseen).

I don't know why when you post some references they appear the size for ants ?

I updated that text for the L2 shoulder straps to be "tapered" as it sounds better and removed the "be".

I do feel that it is warranted to have the "raised and above the neck line" included in the L1 text. For L2 I think more appropriate would be "the method of raising the shoulder is unseen", whereas be able to see an inner bell would be acceptable for L1. L2 people may want to paint it matte black, etc. to make it not visible. Thoughts?

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19 minutes ago, IcyTrooper said:

I don't know why when you post some references they appear the size for ants ?

I updated that text for the L2 shoulder straps to be "tapered" as it sounds better and removed the "be".

I do feel that it is warranted to have the "raised and above the neck line" included in the L1 text. For L2 I think more appropriate would be "the method of raising the shoulder is unseen", whereas be able to see an inner bell would be acceptable for L1. L2 people may want to paint it matte black, etc. to make it not visible. Thoughts?

Yea man pics on my phone are giving me a heckuva time.  I dunno.

I think the inner bell should be white period. And Im not sure seen/unseen is a huge factor because in at least 2 panels it is seen…and others not.

I think the main point there is it doesnt have to be seen for L1 (and so an alternative could be done…tho again Im not sure what that would be)…so just the line about where it should sit higher should be sufficient.  L2 is where it has to be a white rounded bell top at least in there (not a tab or something else)…and if it creeps out a little cool but again not required to be seen in a normal pic.  Make sense?

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PS I added pics of the helmet above to show bubble lens, X, black tube stripes..the unique things.

One thing…can u triple check all the arc references for definitive evidence of rear and tear stripes?  The helmet with that X slash Id consider a consistent carry over piece from arc to arc and I dont see stripes on the bucket in any arc

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7 minutes ago, RAIDER said:

Yea man pics on my phone are giving me a heckuva time.  I dunno.

I think the inner bell should be white period. Amd Im not sure seen/unseen is a huge factor because in at least 2 panels it is seen…and others not.

I think the main point there is it doesnt have to be seen for L1 (and so an alternative could be done…tho again Im not sure what that would be)…L2 it has to be a rounded bell top at least in there (not a tab or something else)…and if it creeps out a little cool but again not required to be seen in a normal pic.  Make sense?

They are appearing larger now for whatever you did. I had to go back and check the references a few, so I circled in red what I think is the "under-bell" for what I'm calling it for the discussion on that left shoulder:

scarcav1.PNG  scarcav2.PNG

If that is what you are seeing as well for support of it then I can see it being visible, but really not having a bearing for L1 or L2. It will need to be white as you said if this is the case with the pics. You definitely don't see it in that side pic:

IMG_2937.JPG

4 minutes ago, RAIDER said:

PS I added pics of the helmet above to show bubble lens, X, black tube stripes..the unique things.

One thing…can u triple check all the arc references for definitive evidence of rear and tear stripes?  The helmet with that X slash Id consider a consistent carry over piece from arc to arc and I dont see stripes on the bucket in any arc

I'll compare them to the Sgt. Kreel one to see if we need to modify that as well. I do see tear lines with this pic:

sgtcavtears.PNG

I'll have to see what we have for rear traps.

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Gosh thats so faint Im not even sure because other ones theres clearly nothing there.  Check other arcs when you get a sec…because the helmet woth the exact X slahs would mean he is always using the same helmet.  If it isnt in other arcs it prob isnt here either.  I didnt see lines but want to make sure I didn’t overlook anything 

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There are the same slashes in other arcs but they are pretty similar to what we did for Sgt. Kreel, as well as inconsistent. I'd say we align with what we have for Sgt. Kreel for continuity with the artist who did this one and the previous arc. Here is what I got from the arc 36/37:

cavarc3637-1.PNG  cavarc3637-2.PNG

Granted, if you look at those arcs you'll also see panels where they are missing. I think the overall consensus is that they should be there but may not be able to be present due to the level of detail (LOD) for the comic.

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@IcyTrooper one additional detail maybe to add to the left shoulder is the angled bottom (not rounded). this is tough because the art isnt always matching of course…

A948F797-EA58-4A40-82A4-F2E52501D395.thumb.jpeg.bdad22b8568735fcbaafdb05753a2d7b.jpeg

Other than that I think we can move to the biceps and forearms which really shouldnt be any work because they’re standard TK.

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How does this look?

Shoulder Armor

  • Left shoulder is uniquely shaped with the following details:
    • Rounds out at the top closest to the shoulder.
    • On the inside and outside there is a hexagonal section that protrudes out.
    • The bottom is angled and not rounded.
    • On the top of the shoulder there is a raised detail that resembles an intake/scoop that matches the references material.
  • Right shoulder is smooth in appearance similar to a scout trooper shoulder bell.
  • Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate.

For the biceps, forearms and hand plates:

Biceps

  • Biceps are fully closed.
  • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
  • There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width.

Forearms

  • Forearms are fully sealed and closed.
  • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
  • There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms.

Hand Plates

  • Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted white and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching.
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Here is the proposed text for the Chest Armor:

Chest Armor

  • Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor.
  • Chest is smooth in appearance.
  • There is a knives sheath/chest pad in the center of the chest that is made out of leather or leather-like material and has an irregular hexagon shape with the following details:
    • The bottom of the knives sheath is curved following the bottom of the chest armor.
    • There are three (3) knife pouches equally spaced along the chest pad and house each knife's blade.
    • On each pouch there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional.
    • Within each pouch there is a knife or if local law prohibits the use of prop knives then the following details are present:
      • Each pouch has the appearance of being full with a knife.
      • Each pouch has the only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
  • Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps.

I think the knives are an integral part of the costume look so what I did is add a little more text to it to allow for local law's but also protect the integrity of the costume. Would this work??

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@IcyTrooperyes that would work.  Here for certain con events, I will have to get either rubber knives made or the handle with a stick of some kind. Being made of leather, they should look full regarded which helps.

One detail to add, the pad should be attached without any visible rivets or snaps.

And wherever they are called “pouch” change to “sheath”

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  • 2 weeks later...

Updated for the above from ya!

Chest Armor

  • Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor.
  • Chest is smooth in appearance.
  • There is a knives sheath/chest pad in the center of the chest that is made out of leather or leather-like material and has an irregular hexagon shape with the following details:
    • The bottom of the knives sheath is curved following the bottom of the chest armor.
    • There are three (3) knife sheaths equally spaced along the chest pad and house each knife's blade.
    • On each sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional.
    • Within each pouch there is a knife or if local law prohibits the use of prop knives then the following details are present:
      • Each sheath has the appearance of being full with a knife.
      • Each sheath has the only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
  • Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps.

chest1.PNG chest2.PNG chest3.PNG 

chest4.PNG chest5.PNG chest6.PNG chest7.PNG

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Cool. If u wanna bang out all the back parts @IcyTrooperincluding the detonator there is nothing there out of the norm.

Ab/cod, belt/pouches, right thigh, and knives are the only things that will need some custom text.

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Here is the finalized Chest Armor text:

Chest Armor

  • Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor.
  • Chest is smooth in appearance.
  • There is a knives sheath/chest pad in the center of the chest that is made out of leather or leather-like material and has an irregular hexagon shape with the following details:
    • The bottom of the knives sheath is curved following the bottom of the chest armor.
    • There are three (3) knife sheaths equally spaced along the chest pad and house each knife's blade.
    • On each sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional.
    • Within each pouch there is a knife or if local law prohibits the use of prop knives then the following details are present:
      • Each sheath has the appearance of being full with a knife.
      • Each sheath has the only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
  • Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps.

Here is the text for the Back Armor, Kidney Armor and Posterior Armor since there is nothing special with them either:

Back Armor

  • Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8 inches (0.9cm).

Kidney Armor

  • The kidney armor is separate from the posterior armor (ANH style) and lines up with the abdomen armor.
  • The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor.

Posterior Armor

  • The posterior armor is separate from the kidney armor (ANH style).

We should be able to also finalize the Thermal Detonator (TD) text with the following as it is the same as our other TK-based costumes, especially Sgt. Kreel:

Thermal Detonator

  • (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt.
  • Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2 to 2.68 inches (5 to 6.8cm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap.
  • The total length is approximately 7.5 inches (19cm).
  • No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed.
  • The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1 inch (2.5cm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted.
  • Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.
  • Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be silver.
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