Purge Trooper (Phase II) - Kenobi - Discussion

[dewannawanga[TX]]

Yeah let's do that.

 

Shoulder bells

. Realistic style clone shoulder bells

. There are 2 raised portions in the center of armor that run from the top of the shoulder to the bottom. Should match reference photos.

.the armor is painted gloss black

.there is a black 1 inch strap that attaches shoulder armor to shoulder straps from chest and back armor.

.there is a webbing strap that runs down and connects bicep armor to shoulder armor

Lvl 2

.shoulder bells have padding on inside that makes the shoulder armor sit slightly elevated off arm

[smoszer]

I know that most of the armor is based on the clone, but I think the shoulder bell is different. The clone is more rounded and in a tear drop shape. 

The image is of my shoulder bell and I've compared it to a number of sources to match. This just allows for the best angle to see everything.

Shoulder Bells

The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders

There are two raised ridges that run along the top of the right and left side, down to a rectangular area that connects the ridges along the bottom edge. The bottom rectangle is raised above the ridges. 

The top center is recessed between the two ridges and runs from the top of the shoulder to the bicep and notches into the lower rectangular area. 

A raised ridge runs along the bottom edge and angles up to meet the top ridges along the side.

Shoulder bell is painted gloss black

 

[dewannawanga[TX]]

Yeah I like that. I mentioned realistic style clone just as a base but I agree Maybe we shouldn't mention that to avoid confusion. 

[dewannawanga[TX]]

Shoulder bells

.The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders

.The top center is recessed between the two ridges and runs from the top of the shoulder to the bicep and notches into the lower rectangular area

.A raised ridge runs along the bottom edge and angles up to meet the top ridges along the side.

.the armor is painted gloss black

.there is a black 1 inch strap that attaches shoulder armor to shoulder straps from chest and back armor.

.there is a webbing strap that runs down and connects bicep armor to shoulder armor

 

Lvl 2

 

.shoulder bells have padding on inside that makes the shoulder armor sit slightly elevated off arm

 

So this is what we have. Are we content for now so we can move on to the bicep armor?

[smoszer]

I'm good with it. We'll have to have @Tipperary take a look at it. I'm not sure how much we outline the strapping solutions. I've seen this in a few CRLs, but a lot of them don't mention it. 

Let's move onto the bicep armor and then move to the forearms. 

[dewannawanga[TX]]

Bicep armor

. Realistic style clone bicep armor

. Right side is painted gloss black to match rest of armor

. Left side is painted gloss red

. Armor is specific left to right

. A 1 inch black strap runs from the inside side of bicep and attaches to elbow armor

. Bicep must sit under shoulder bell

 

Thoughts?

[dewannawanga[TX]]

I've moved on to the elbow. 

 

Elbow armor

.realistic style clone elbow armor

. Painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor

. There is a small rectangular greeblie on the out side corner of the armor. 

.a black rubber strap is attached the both inner ends of armor and wraps around the inside pit of the elbow. The strap is flat with 2 raised ridges that run along the outside edges of the strap

Lvl 2

. The inside of the armor is padded to slightly elevate the armor off elbow

.there are 2 elastic straps that run down from the bicep armor and attach to the inner sides the elbow.

 

[dewannawanga[TX]]

I also realized something was missing here.

Bicep armor

 

. Realistic style clone bicep armor

.there are seams that run along the sides of the armor connecting front to back.

. Right side is painted gloss black to match rest of armor

. Left side is painted gloss red

. Armor is specific left to right

. A 1 inch black strap runs from the inside side of bicep and attaches to elbow armor

. Bicep must sit under shoulder bell

[dewannawanga[TX]]

Right Forearm armor:

. Realistic style clone Forearm armor

. Armor is a 2 peice design with a top and bottom. Armor is joined together with 2 visible seams on both sides 

. Armor is painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor

. Compad greeblie is positioned on the topside of the Forearm and is identical to the clone trooper compad. Compad is painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor 

Lvl 2

. A 1 inch black elastic strap runs from the inside elbow to the inside of the forearm armor

 

Left forearm armor:

.Realistic style clone Forearm armor

. Armor is a 2 peice design with a top and bottom. Armor is joined together with 2 visible seams on both sides 

. Armor is painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor

Lvl 2

. A 1 inch black elastic strap runs from the inside elbow to the inside of the forearm armor

[dewannawanga[TX]]

Left hand plate:

. realistic style clone hand plate

. Hand plate is attached and centered on top of glove

. Armor is painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor

 

Right hand plate:

Left hand plate:

. realistic style clone hand plate

. Hand plate is attached and centered on top of glove

. Armor is painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor

[smoszer]

Brent, I'm glad to see you're just moving on this and not waiting. I was thinking the same thing and was going to sit down this weekend and write out all of the armor to post. I'll start going through what you have so far, but let's just plow through this and if there are any comments from the rest of the forum, we can capture them all at once. Chest, back and backpack next? Then work our way down to the feet and finish with the blaster? I don't think they have any other equipment. In Kenobi they only carried the e-11d.

[dewannawanga[TX]]

I was thinking maybe we do the legs since they are super easy regular clone armor and get them out of the way then move onto the center armor parts that we will need to spend more time on. Is there anything you suggest changing on the arms before we move on? Should we split the bicep armor into a left and right like I did with the forearms?

[smoszer]

I'll take a look at what you posted, but don't wait on me to move forward. We can go to the bottom armor and then the move to the center.

 

The only thing we should remove is the reference to other armor. Most people don't have that deep of understanding of the different characters and may not know what the reference is and then have to look it up. We can pick up the writing from the clone CRL and modify it. The other thing I haven't seen in the CRLs as a GML is that the strapping isn't outlined. I'm not sure if this is good or bad since most of us have to look up strapping solutions to know what the options are, but would love the tip o n how it can be done. I haven't seen it anywhere but maybe we start to add a suggestion section that could include more optional information to helping the build like strapping, color match specifications, fabric types, etc. Not sure if that's allowed by the Legion.

[dewannawanga[TX]]

I understand your point on the reference to other armor. With this particular costume how ever I do feel it's important to mention "movie realistic clone armor". The reason for this is the armor is clearly clone trooper armor and the problem with clones is there are allot of variations. Without mentioning "realistic style clone armor". People could say "oh hey that's just clone armor" and could buy animated or other style clone armor if they didn't understand the difference witch would not be approvable. Afew minutes of research on Google would show the difference between the types of clone armor so I don't feel it's unreasonable to expect people to do some research on there own. Clone armor is very particular so you have to be very specific. Thats also why i mentioned the seems cause the OG realistic clone armor had no seams. We could alter it to say "movie realistic style clone armor" 

 

As for the strapping the only reason I recommended those as level 2 requirements is because that's how the movie suits were rigged so it's just an extra detail. There is a member on the clone trooper detachment who was an actual clone in kenobi and build and rigged his armor exactly like the one he wore in the film so felt it could be a lvl 2 detail. If we decide we don't want to mention it for level 2 that's Fine aswell. I was also basing some of that off of what is seen in the Adam savage close up clone video. 

[dewannawanga[TX]]

Right thigh armor:

. Movie realistic clone thigh armor

. Armor is a 2 piece construction with front and back pieces being joined together. There should be 2 visible seams down both sides of the armor

. Armor is sized to the wearer 

. Armor is painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor

. Armor is rigged to a garter belt with 2 1" straps the are attached to the front outer edge of thigh armor. "this particular detail can be seen in the Adam savage video"

 

 

 

Left thigh armor:

. Movie realistic clone thigh armor

. Armor is a 2 piece construction with front and back pieces being joined together. There should be 2 visible seams down both sides of the armor

. Armor is sized to the wearer 

. Armor is painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor

. Armor is rigged to a garter belt with 2 1" straps the are attached to the front outer edge of inner thigh armor. "this particular detail can be seen in the Adam savage video"

[smoszer]

I'm following what you're saying about the fact that the core of this armor is based on the realistic clone design. I'm taking the opposite view of what your saying as my concern. If we say it's realistic clone armor and a member doesn't understand the details in what is different, they may purchase a clone kit and find out that they have to alter or purchase some new pieces to have it meet the approval requirements. If we leave that reference out completely, that removes any risk that may cause confusion. I don't have a strong feeling about this either way, since there are pros and cons to either solution. I'll leave this to Tipperary to weigh in on.

I do like the idea of adding in the information about the strapping. I was just clarifying that we try to keep the build solutions open for the member, so they can do what works best for them when trooping. If we make it a requirement, then the GML will tell the member that they have to change it to meet what we outline. That could mean a lot of rework and cost, depending on if they do the work themselves or paid a prop shop to build it for them.

 

On another note, I ordered the undersuit from Keeptrooping and it took them 8 days from the day l ordered it to the day it arrived on my door step. Great quality and it was on sale, so with shipping, under $200.

[tipperaryred[CMD-DCA]]

Brilliant work with keeping this moving forwards folks. When I finally get a chance I'll review the latest and add it to the finalised text.

[Church113]

Hey guys I was going through some old stuff and found my Death Trooper under suit from Imperial Boots that I never ended up using. I’ve noticed some similarities to the Purge Trooper and I was curious if any of it could be repurposed for a Purge Trooper build or if I’m better off selling it to someone who can use it for a Death Trooper build? 

[dewannawanga[TX]]

3 hours ago, Church113 said:

Hey guys I was going through some old stuff and found my Death Trooper under suit from Imperial Boots that I never ended up using. I’ve noticed some similarities to the Purge Trooper and I was curious if any of it could be repurposed for a Purge Trooper build or if I’m better off selling it to someone who can use it for a Death Trooper build? 

They are close but not exact. I would sell it and buy the correct R1 tk undersuit 

[dewannawanga[TX]]

On 12/13/2023 at 1:21 PM, smoszer said:

I'm following what you're saying about the fact that the core of this armor is based on the realistic clone design. I'm taking the opposite view of what your saying as my concern. If we say it's realistic clone armor and a member doesn't understand the details in what is different, they may purchase a clone kit and find out that they have to alter or purchase some new pieces to have it meet the approval requirements. If we leave that reference out completely, that removes any risk that may cause confusion. I don't have a strong feeling about this either way, since there are pros and cons to either solution. I'll leave this to Tipperary to weigh in on.

I do like the idea of adding in the information about the strapping. I was just clarifying that we try to keep the build solutions open for the member, so they can do what works best for them when trooping. If we make it a requirement, then the GML will tell the member that they have to change it to meet what we outline. That could mean a lot of rework and cost, depending on if they do the work themselves or paid a prop shop to build it for them.

 

On another note, I ordered the undersuit from Keeptrooping and it took them 8 days from the day l ordered it to the day it arrived on my door step. Great quality and it was on sale, so with shipping, under $200.

I agree on the strapping. If we keep it level2 then that leaves  rigging open for everyone for Lvl 1. We will just keep the clone armor thing for now and if he decides it's not necessary we can remove it later.

[smoszer]

I went through and wrote the rest of the armor descriptions and took photos and outlined them in PhotoShop. I'll post each piece separately with the photo for feedback. 

 

All white text has been read and approved. All red text is still in review and will need final alignment and approval.

Approved: 

Helmet

• Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume.
• Lens must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The eye lens is one continuous piece with a mirrored red tint.
• The central vocoder (chin detail) may be molded as a separate piece and is inserted into a recess in the mouth plate or it may be molded as a part of the mouth plate, but with a prominent recessed outline to create the appearance of being separate.
  • The top part of the vocoder is rectangular in shape, with two clipped dog ears on the top corners.
    • A smaller plate of identical shape sits on the top of this panel, leaving a narrow margin around each edge. There is also an angular cut out at the top of the right edge of this plate.
    • A second rectangular plate sits on the top of the first, covering approximately 40% of bottom of the lower plate.
    • There is a raised horizontal line on the lower left side of this top plate.
    • There is a small square recess underneath this raised horizontal line.
  • The main body of the vocoder sits below the panel described above.
    • 9 raised ridges run vertically across the vocoder.
    • Angled wings at the top of either side of the vocoder ridges, each slightly under approximately 50% of the length of these ridges. These wings angle down to the rest on top of the main mouth plate.

• Square profile side tusks run back from the lower edges of this front plate.
  • Recessed rectangular metallic silver screens are inset into the greeblie in the front of each side tusk. Each greeblie has a raised ridge on 3 sides, angling up from the bottom side of the greeblie.
  • 6 pill shaped symmetrical recessed stripes on each tusk, with the bottom of the recesses filled with red to match the pauldron, belt accessories and left bicep armor.
• A small raised horizontal rectangle with a recessed line is located below the vocoder.
• The frown must have 10 raised teeth, with angled recesses painted silver.
• There is a silver rectangular plate on the nose, between the teeth and the front plate, with a silver half moon greeble on top. This plate is recessed below the angled face plates on either side. The half moon greeble is level with the adjacent face plates.
• There is symmetrical recesses with a pill shaped greeblie on each side between the side tubes and the cheeks.
  • The top of the greeblie are split in half with the top half being flat and the bottom half having 4 raised ridges that are level with the flat half.
• There are sharp angular cheekbones sculpted into helmet face plate running in a triangular shape below the lens opening.
• There are 3 raised ridges run from the center of the brow, over the top of the helmet and down to the rear center of the helmet skirt. The central ridge is approximately 2.5 times wider than the ridges to either side of it.
• A winged greeblie sits below the center of the brow ridge and above the eye lens.
• The top of the helmet is separated from the face plate by a horizontal band running above the brow. A groove separates the top of the helmet and the rear skirt, running across the back of the helmet, meeting the brow band on either side. The side greebles (communicators/range finders) are attached on top of the joints between the band and the ridge on either side of the helmet.
• Symmetrical rectangular greebles (communicators/range finders) with semi-circular ridges underneath, present at the back of each side of the brow band, situated on top of the point where the front band meets the rear groove.
  • The greeblie contains two raised and stacked squares, each with a circular LED or sculpted imitation located near the front, and a single recessed line in the shape of a square outlining the back two thirds of the greeble.
  • OPTIONAL - The top and bottom may be lit using LEDs. The top LED must be a warm pale yellow (similar to a warm incandescent bulb), the bottom LED must be red.
• There are 2 small pill shaped double indentation in the bottom corners of the faceplate, under each ear. The rear indentation is vertical and slightly longer than the front indentation that angles toward the front of the helmet. 

OPTIONAL: Level two certification

• The central vocoder (chin detail) shall be molded as a separate piece and is inserted into a recess in the mouth plate.
• The aforementioned greeblie on the back of each side of the brow band must have the top and bottom lit using LEDs. The top LED must be a warm pale yellow (similar to a warm incandescent bulb), the bottom LED must be red.

 

Under Suit

• Base undersuit is made from a black, non-textured material, either one or two-piece construction with no visible logos/designs.
• Any zippers must not be visible when the full costume is worn.
• Ribbing material must be present anywhere the undersuit is visible when armor is worn on top.
• All ribbing must be horizontal.
• Each rib and groove can be no wider than 3mm or 1/8 inch (one rib and one groove equal 6 mm or 1/4 inch).

 

OPTIONAL: Level two certification

• The undersuit is one piece construction .
• A zipper runs along the entire front and encloses the front of the undersuit.  This should not be visible when the full costume is worn.
• Non-visible areas of undersuit (eg. forearms, center of thighs, waist and calves) do not have ribbed material present.

Neck Seal

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck.
• A bib may extend from the bottom of the neck seal to ensure that the entire neck opening of the chest and back armor is covered.  The bib should be made from the same ribbing material as used on the undersuit.

 

Kama

• The exterior is a black leather or leather like material.
• The exterior is divided into four large panels.
• Three small pleated panels of equal height (roughly 40mm per panel) are stacked vertically at the bottom of each panel.
• There is a slit separating the back center of the Kama that runs from the bottom and stops 1/3 of the way from the top.
• Red cording runs along the front edge on both sides and matches the red used on the armor.
• The inner lining fabric has a pattern representing black cogs on a red background (vinyl material acceptable).
• Inner lining is divided into four large panels that run top to bottom.
• Black repeating cog pattern covers entire interior. Each row is offset from the row above and below. (each roughly 12-15 mm diameter).

OPTIONAL: Level two certification

• The red on the inner liner fabric is raised, giving the appearance of an embossed pattern.

 

Boots

• Boots are above ankle height, similar in style to FOTK boots.
• Flat black soles, without a heel.
• Boots are made from black leather or a leather like material.
• Boots have a full height inner zipper.
• Zipper must be black in color.

OPTIONAL: Level two certification

• The wearer's inner side of the boots have zippers and no side elastic.

 

Blaster: E-11D

Description: Purge Trooper Phase II

Prefix: TX

Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment

Context: Star Wars: Kenobi (TV Series)

 

Special Notes:

• The armor parts shall be satin and made from one of these (or similar) types of materials:
  • Fiberglass
  • ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
  • HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)
  • PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing)
  • Polyurethane Rubber
• Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy
• 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed.

[smoszer]

Need additional review for approval: White copy has been agreed on. Red copy will need additional review.

 

Pauldron

• Pauldron is made from black leather or leather like material

Pauldron is sleek and uniform with one end coming to the other in a straight line along front and back

• 2 end corners of shoulder area are cut at about 45° angles
• There is a large red pad attached to top of shoulder area and is cut slightly smaller then base to allow a small black border to show around red pad. Pad is made from leather or leather like material. red pad ends about 1 inch from neck opening creating a small black patch between red pad and neck opening
• There is a elastic strap that runs under bicep and is attached to pauldron with 2 black snaps. Strap is attach under pauldron not over. (strap is about 15mm wide)
• There are 6 slanted stitches that run along front and back of Neck opening giving the appearance of separate panels and should match reference photo. There is also black stitching that runs along entire outer edge of pauldron. also with reference to 
• Pauldron should only have one opening in the back and should utilize an overlapping Velcro type closure to give the appearance of a flush one piece design.

OPTIONAL: Level two certification

• Pauldron is made from real leather
•  

Gloves
    • Gloves are based on the Rogue One TK style gloves.
    • The base material of the gloves will be a black synthetic material similar to Lycra, Spandex, Elastane, or Nylon.
    • The palms and fingers should feature a black leather, leather-like or Nomex material with no visible logos, textures or designs, to match reference photos.
    • The glove extends under the forearm armor.
    • The cuff is made from an black elasticated fabric.
    • The hand plate is attached to back of glove and is black to match the rest of the armor.
    
OPTIONAL: Level two certification
The palm has 5 raised padded sections to match reference photos.

[smoszer]

The following items will need review:

 

 

Shoulder Armor
    • The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders
    • The top center is recessed between the two ridges and runs from the top of the shoulder to the bicep and notches into the lower rectangular area
    • A raised ridge runs along the bottom edge and angles up to meet the top ridges along the side.
    • The armor is painted gloss black
    • There is a black 1 inch strap that attaches shoulder armor to shoulder straps from chest and back armor.
    • There is a webbing strap that runs down and connects bicep armor to shoulder armor
 
OPTIONAL: Level two certification
Shoulder bells have padding on inside that makes the shoulder armor sit slightly elevated off arm

 

 

[smoszer]

 

Upper Arm Armor
    • Right side is painted gloss black to match rest of armor
    • Left side is painted gloss red
    • There is a dimple on the lower area of the back of the arm.
    • The outside of the bicep has a hard line edge at the front that turns in.
    • The inside of the upper arm is rounded.
    • Armor has small vertical seam line on the inside and outside near the back of the armor

• Bicep must sit under shoulder bell

[smoszer]

 

 

Elbow Armor
    • Painted gloss black to match the rest of the armor
    • There is a small rectangular buckle style greeblie on the outside front corner of the armor. 
    • A black rubber strap is attached the both inner ends of armor and wraps around the inside pit of the elbow. The strap is flat with 2 raised ridges that run along the outside edges of the strap

OPTIONAL: Level two certification
The inside of the armor is padded to slightly elevate the armor off elbow