Aes' General Weir WIP

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Hi all,

Diving into this!  Two initial thoughts:

1. Getting ready to order my armour, and I think I will go with Chef's Storm Commando kit (armour + helm).  Checked the Pathfinders forum as well as Specialist applications here,  and it seems well accepted! (showing retired on the forum).  Any concerns with using a Shadow Scout kit as a base for Weir?

2. I am thinking to go matte, should it be glossy? (CRL seems glossy... better ask).

3. Looking at the CRL and the reference pictures, I see the DLT-19 is an option.  Wanted to bring attention to this:

           

 

Image on the right is from the ref pics (X-wing: Rogue Leader #2).  I immediately noticed the profile of the stock of the weapon:

The DLT-19/D/X have a much thinner stock.  The 20a is the only thicker one, that has a 'greeblie' on the stock, and this round tube before the scope (iron sight?)

I'd rather print a DLT-20a than a 19! (I've seen others on the forum have used AprilStorms' STLs for this).

Would this be an acceptable basis to do a 20a for a General Weir build? (That said I think I read that it takes three references (not just one) for such a thing?)

Thanks,

-T

[RAIDER[COTG]]

7 hours ago, Aesmodan said:

Hi all,

Diving into this!  Two initial thoughts:

1. Getting ready to order my armour, and I think I will go with Chef's Storm Commando kit (armour + helm).  Checked the Pathfinders forum as well as Specialist applications here,  and it seems well accepted! (showing retired on the forum).  Any concerns with using a Shadow Scout kit as a base for Weir?

2. I am thinking to go matte, should it be glossy? (CRL seems glossy... better ask).

3. Looking at the CRL and the reference pictures, I see the DLT-19 is an option.  Wanted to bring attention to this:

           

 

Image on the right is from the ref pics (X-wing: Rogue Leader #2).  I immediately noticed the profile of the stock of the weapon:

The DLT-19/D/X have a much thinner stock.  The 20a is the only thicker one, that has a 'greeblie' on the stock, and this round tube before the scope (iron sight?)

I'd rather print a DLT-20a than a 19! (I've seen others on the forum have used AprilStorms' STLs for this).

Would this be an acceptable basis to do a 20a for a General Weir build? (That said I think I read that it takes three references (not just one) for such a thing?)

Thanks,

-T

Welcome!  To answer your questions:

1. Chefs kit would be just fine.

2. Satin or matte is fine (Special Notes section in the top portion of the CRL).

3. Great catch there. It might be enough to get it added to the CRL since blasters are optional accessories anyways. @IcyTrooper?

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

That is definitely a good catch there! We can add the DLT-20a as a weapon that can be used in the official capacity with the General Weir costume.

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Thanks to you both!  A 20a seems also more ...in scope.  😉

Red cap suit and strapping/velcro due today -- let the soft parts commence! 

 

 

 

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Red Cap arrived and fits pretty snug on the torso (ordered a 44 when I am normally a 46), and I'm tempted to go a size up, but I'll stick with it so as to be more form fitting per the CRL and the need to fit flak/armour over it.  Red and black elastic and webbing is in the mail.

Another thing to discuss from eyeballing the ref pictures:

Anyone recognize what this is holstered on Weir's left hip?

(E-1 Enforcer, BR-36 blaster pistol without scopes?  Vibroknife?)

 

 

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

8 hours ago, Aesmodan said:

Red Cap arrived and fits pretty snug on the torso (ordered a 44 when I am normally a 46), and I'm tempted to go a size up, but I'll stick with it so as to be more form fitting per the CRL and the need to fit flak/armour over it.  Red and black elastic and webbing is in the mail.

Another thing to discuss from eyeballing the ref pictures:

Anyone recognize what this is holstered on Weir's left hip?

(E-1 Enforcer, BR-36 blaster pistol without scopes?  Vibroknife?)

 

 

Not sure what it is supposed to be, but looks like some artistic liberty with whatever it is. Not sure we have enough information/reference to really define what it is. I actually have this comic on my Amazon reader, so I'll have to look at it again  

[Aesmodan[501st]]

• Chef's armour is in the mail!
• Black heavy cotton and batting acquired to do flak vest and cummerbund, will wait for armour for landmarking and proper dimensions/lengths.
• All strapping acquired, but of all shades of red.  Will need to get some real suede in my local fabric store.
• Gloves ordered from Wampa!
• Cheap boots (with a decent shape, solid toe, good sole) and marine vinyl acquired, and I took an initial crack on the patterning:

• Deciding on the red to use for trims -- I have looked through the forum, but do we have a specified shade?

  

Agree with previous comments and I prefer a darker, less "candy apple red", but conscious of trying to match up a similar shade of strapping.

For the moment I like Fire Red and Regal Red best... (nothing bought yet).

 

[Aesmodan[501st]]

One boot done -- looked at a lot of patterns:

 

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

On 11/1/2024 at 9:16 AM, Aesmodan said:

• Chef's armour is in the mail!
• Black heavy cotton and batting acquired to do flak vest and cummerbund, will wait for armour for landmarking and proper dimensions/lengths.
• All strapping acquired, but of all shades of red.  Will need to get some real suede in my local fabric store.
• Gloves ordered from Wampa!
• Cheap boots (with a decent shape, solid toe, good sole) and marine vinyl acquired, and I took an initial crack on the patterning:

• Deciding on the red to use for trims -- I have looked through the forum, but do we have a specified shade?

  

Agree with previous comments and I prefer a darker, less "candy apple red", but conscious of trying to match up a similar shade of strapping.

For the moment I like Fire Red and Regal Red best... (nothing bought yet).

 

Here are examples from red that I've used to help:

Rustoleum Satin Enamel "Heritage Red"

----------------------------------

Rustoleum Gloss "Regal Red"

It appears that the regal is probably the same as you have above.

[Aesmodan[501st]]

I really like the Regal Red as well, but I'll test that and the Fire Red against the satin for contrast...

(PS: I also looked closely at and wanted to do an Incinerator TK!)

I see this is the paint that is preferred for satin/matte and the results on this forum look great.  I'm in!

Chef's armour has arrived:

First question: I think I see from the approved Specialist apps and the CRL that the breastplate lower center 'notch' lands around the area of the solar plexus. Landmarking my plate like this has the yokes much too curved to sit flush (1-2" away).  To get the yoke to sit flush it has to ride too high (right on the neck):

Won't do anything about this yet (until the flak vest is done and overtop, that's my next project), but am I placing this wrong?  Or is it normal to heat the yokes with a hairdryer etc. to mold them to the needed angles? (like I just did to create the concave surfaces of the TD caps?)

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

I think you'd bring the chest armor down a little but and it may hug a little better. Heating to get it to spread a little bit could help, but as you said, you'll want to have the vest and such done prior to just to be safe!

[Aesmodan[501st]]

It appears one wants 2-3" clear from the top of the yoke to the base of the neck, but this has the arms of my yoke as far too curved to sit flush on the chest...

@IcyTrooper Will take pics if this is still an issue after the flak vest is done (I'd rather not heat the yoke if I can avoid it after fiddling with bending ABS scraps). I bought a heavy work t-shirt to use as the base, but I think I will make the top layer the same heavy cotton I'll use for the cummerbund.

An idea:

I ordered flat, long magnets as I am going to mount the bicep greeblies so they can be modular/switched out black/red for the Scout/Weir when I want (I'll then just print some extra greeblies.  Chef's are resin cast, these should be the red ones!)

 

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Quick question…

Assembling my belt and comparing this forum and Pathfinders and the CRLs, I’m not sure how the drop box webbing are attached to the webbing of the belt at the rear?

This picture at Pathfinders shows them separately riveted to the back webbing, spaced about the same at the belt buckle, around 3.5” apart (which are then hidden from view by the TD):

 

Can't really tell from the belt CRL image, but it appears to have them spaced like the Pathfinders pic (?)

Unclear in the picture for Weir (front / back) but they might be spaced, and:

The Shadow Scout back view appears to be a single attach point / single rivet? near the middle.  This might be what's done for Weir too.

I suppose I could just sew it down to the webbing at back as well, so there's really no requirement to rivet.  Better to not rivet when you don't have to (tm).

Not a big deal, as it will be in the webbing hidden behind the TD.  Just don’t want to screw up this detail for Specialist!
 

 

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

13 hours ago, Aesmodan said:

Quick question…

Assembling my belt and comparing this forum and Pathfinders and the CRLs, I’m not sure how the drop box webbing are attached to the webbing of the belt at the rear?

This picture at Pathfinders shows them separately riveted to the back webbing, spaced about the same at the belt buckle, around 3.5” apart (which are then hidden from view by the TD):

 

Can't really tell from the belt CRL image, but it appears to have them spaced like the Pathfinders pic (?)

Unclear in the picture for Weir (front / back) but they might be spaced, and:

The Shadow Scout back view appears to be a single attach point / single rivet? near the middle.  This might be what's done for Weir too.

I suppose I could just sew it down to the webbing at back as well, so there's really no requirement to rivet.  Better to not rivet when you don't have to (tm).

Not a big deal, as it will be in the webbing hidden behind the TD.  Just don’t want to screw up this detail for Specialist!
 

 

Those are good observations. I'd say that either method is good as long as it provides the correct "hang" of the drop boxes on each side of your armor.

I have two pictures below showing how it is on my snow scout. The are sewed into underneath the Velcro which connects at the back. They are sewed in a way that when the two pieces of Velcro come together it looks like the elastic comes together in the center, just liked our shadow scout image (would be okay for General Weir).

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Thanks @IcyTrooper, I think I prefer the look of the single mount point too!
 

So I only just noticed the Spec ops CRL doesn’t mention / require the 2” webbing comprising half the belt to be riveted to the plastic… not so the Pathfinder Scout ROTJ indeed.

Probably better if it is glued so as not to stress the plastic.  Am I good for Specialist to glue and avoid riveting the belt save for the clips to the TD? (I'll rivet it if it should be!)

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Yep the single mount does look clean!

As for the rivets, are you talking about the plastic part of the belt being riveted to the canvas of the belt?

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Yes, exact.  The CRL doesn’t include the Scout ROTJ text on this.  Unsure how to proceed… happy to do either.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Ooops, I thought I responded to this. 🤦‍♂️

I think we may have to look at the text on that since it is confusing/misleading with the rivet talked about in the TD box part of the belt text. Should be a single rivet on each end painted black.

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Update, the magnets for the T-bits raise it too high from the armour and I don't want to get into carving out a space within them to accommodate, so I will just switch to velcro (why didn't I do that first?)

Printing an extra set of T-bits so I'll have a set in red and in black, and they can just be swapped out for Weir/Shadow Scout.

Bandolier production begun!

Edit: for those new to printing like me, BambuStudio prompts that I should add supports for the slots in all the boxes (through which the webbing passes), which I did.  When finished, there was support junk throughout the full length (I thought it would only support the initial hole).  However if you push a knife into the space at the sides of the hole, it will disengage the supports on the inside -- if you then pull on the filament supports gently with pliers you can pull big chunks out (since they are all tethered together).  The slot is too small for a putty/drywall knife, so what I have been using that works well is acrylic paint knives (blunt).

For future reference:

Printing in: Bambu PETG HF (for strength, temp/sun resist) and in grey, so I can see imperfections easier
Nozzle: 0.4 @ 245 degrees (I have 0.2s but at this scale it's maybe unnecessary and would just increase print time, considering they will be primed/painted anyway?)
Quality: 0.08 High Quality is probably best (lower quality in the print above and T-bits below, some layer lines visible), can be bumped up for the more detailed pieces to avoid much sanding
Supports: Ensure that you use a support matrix that will be perpendicular to the slots, or else the print will fail when trying to pass overtop (I used reticular, and I turned off the Aux fan until the space was spanned).  Supports need to be in place and are only tricky to remove from the longer boxes.
Filament Dryer: using a Sunlu S2 for PETG at 60 degrees C (cooked the default 6 hours before printing, showing 16% relative humidity)

Black on left, resin print from Chef; Grey in the middle, PETG HF, white on the right Bambu PLA

 

 

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Providing some feedback on the CRL for the bandolier:

* The STL files provided by @thisiskevin @Dropkick are really great in detail, thanks again!
* The STL pack is arranged for printing in individual files = boxes #1-25 comprising the bandolier, but their sequence/ordering are slightly different than the CRL’s images.
* This caused me to revert to the Weir reference pictures, with the following observations:

1. The CRL bandolier image (CBI) shows that the first three horizontal “ribs” or rectangular boxes of the right hand “suspender” (as worn, left hand as seen in the image) are squared and not rounded. The files labeled #1-3 in the STL pack are the rounded version of these boxes. The reference images agree with the CBI that these should be squared, so we could note this for the STL pack and possibly update the CRL text (put another way, I simply printed STL boxes #1-3 when I started, and then realized later these are the wrong type of box against the CBI and ref images).
2. In places, the CRL text has the boxes out of order or is unclear (to me, in the course of printing). It might help for me to make notes as I progress.  Suggest the following to guide future prints:

• The left bandoleer strap will have 6 boxes, 1 greeblie, and ribs that match the CRL photo (from the shoulder to the waist) as follows:
  • Horizontal ribs, 6 in total, shall be present from the top of the last box over theshoulder. (unclear)
  • Boxes 1-3: Narrow, horizontal rectangular box with squared edges. (x3)
  • Box 4: Large, vertical, rectangular box with a raised circular detail centered in the upper portion of the box.  The indented portion is on the lower portion of the box.
  • Box 5: Large, vertical, rectangular box with two vertical "I" shaped indents left and right. A narrow, ribbed horizontal cylinder greeblie appears between two prongs on the lower part of the box.
  • Box 6: Medium, center greeblie shaped like a letter C pointed downward, within which is a pill-shaped detail.
  • Boxes 7-8: Narrow, horizontal rectangular box shaped like a thermal detonator. (x2)
  • Box 9: Large, vertical, rectangular box with a reversed L-shaped indent. Two cylindrical details appear near the top and bottom of the box on the viewer's left hand side.
  • Box 10: Small, rectangular box that is plain with no details.
  • Box 11: Narrow, horizontal, rectangular box with rounded edges (same as box #14).
  • Boxes 12-13: Medium, rectangular box that is plain with no details (identical to the right hand boxes #8-10). (x2)
  • Box 14: Narrow, horizontal, rectangular box with rounded edges  (same as box #11).
  • A small rectangular box with a horizontal "T' detail. The "T" faces towards the back. (this is on the right strap, not bottom left)
  • Horizontal ribs, 2 in total.
  •  

• The right bandolier strap will have 9 pouches/boxes that match the CRL photo (from the shoulder down to the waist) as follows:
  • Horizontal ribs, 6 in total, shall be present from the top of the last box over the shoulder. (unclear)
  • Box 1: Small, rectangular box with a horizontal "T' detail. The top of the capital letter "T" detail faces toward the viewer's right.
  • Box 2: Medium, square box with "I" shaped indent, which appears at the viewer's lower left.
  • Box 3: Narrow, horizontal, rectangular box that is notched along its length, producing five sections.  The widest section faces the viewer's right.
  • Box 4: Medium, horizontal, rectangular box with an indent spanning its vertical height, which is on the viewer's right.
  • Box 5: Medium, horizontal, rectangular box with three indents in a stack on the viewer's lower left.
  • Box 6: Narrow, horizontal, rectangular box with caps on the ends.
  • Box 7: Largest greeblie in the bandolier, a vertical, rectangular box with two long indents left and right that span the height of the box. Within the left hand indent are several horizontal sections, which have the appearance of 12 buttons. A deeper indent appears at the top of the line of 12 buttons. The right hand indentation has a deeper indentation in the middle, and two half-hexagonal cut-outs facing toward the viewer’s right.
  • Boxes 8-10: Medium, square box that is plain with no details (identical to the left hand boxes #12-13). (x3)
  • Box 11: Medium, square box with the appearance of a capital letter "I" on its side. Between the spaces of the capital "I" are two narrow, ribbed horizontal cylinder greeblies, one each on the upper and lower areas (these have a similar appearance to the greeblie appearing on the left hand box #5).
  • Medium rectangular boxes, 4 in total.
  • Horizontal ribs, 2 in total.
• All boxes and greeblies shall be appropriately spaced.