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We are now live: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Imperial_security_trooper

Thanks to all involved developing this crl!

Note to start, using this as the start of the build thread, got contact going with Walt's Trooper Factory to figure out the source for the armor/helmet. No pictures yet, will update with such once I get started.

These are today's vacuum work.

The digital repair of the chest and back armor has been completed.

This is a vacuum test for the thighs and buttocks. I think it looks pretty good.

The CRL has been officially submitted to the LMOs for final review with the text and images in the wiki.

Update: My Jim Tripon undersuit came today. The material is pretty incredible, and it fits well, though I do have some trouble lifting my arms up. I tried it on with my boots and am happy with how it’s looking so far. I’m also in the midst of printing my armor pieces. I’ve done quite a few already, but still have a bunch of the big pieces left. I’m going over to a trooper’s house tomorrow to learn about sanding/post processing.

Hello, in order to have the shields and baton holster included in the CRL, I would like to open a conversation to achieve it. After watching the episode several times, mainly to obtain the appropriate screenshots, there are a couple of things that stand out to me, as I am sure to many of you. The first of all is that they received advice regarding the use of the different items and how the stunts had to act as riot police. What's more, due to the high "physical" and action content of the episode,even though they are acting, the shields received a harsh treatment and they probably also had received advice regarding the materials and props necessary to give credibility to the scene. In order to have a professional point of view regarding this matter, I have requested opinions from professionals in the police field, and they agree that due to positioning, use of containment tactics, withdrawal and arrest, the stunts have been minimally trained. Regarding as it seems to be ,the material used, both, the holster of the extendable baton and the large shields, maybe it is material for police use, minimally modified to give a "star wars" appearance, as usual ,or custom made meeting the approximate specifications and standards of this kind of pólice material. I have received information about measurements, shapes and materials from various sources... and also carried out searches , what is more I was lucky enought to carry some. https://www.nidec.es/es/escudos-antidisturbios Regarding the baton holster, it is a small item with very little visual impact on the screen so it shouldn't have been very complicated to go for something simple. Several of the riot police who I´d shared the screenshots agreed that it was probably a simple glove holder. Sample: https://www.desenfunda.com/porta-guante-giratorio-en-cuero-parabellum-95165-pa-95165-209699.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiApsm7BhBZEiwAvIu2Xy2Ka5lGoW-2lLydRs9xaMAEuJcVEEY3-O7PXiZlhUItskAKjFS7YhoCWIoQAvD_BwE&utm_source=adtraction&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=adtraction&at_gd=90C7B9B01E546FEAAEDFD926DACA08011DCA9775 To me it seems like that, is very common and easy to obtain police equipment ,or maybe custom made as I said. There are very few clear shots of this item since it is a black item on a black background...in motion...in fact the closest and clearest one we have is during the confrontation , of one belt falling.... SCREENSHOTS: The shield is more complicated , they are objects of great visual impact, close-up filming and surely in the storyboard they were well represented, also on a practical level it is an action scene and should withstand harsh filming conditions. SEE HOW IT BENDS An item with these characteristics must be based on a real model or a real one. I would consider various options: A/Produce the item from scratch in the prop department , or request it to be manufactured and give it the final finish in the studio. B/Buy items with similar characteristics to those needed and modify them until their final form , ¿Second-hand police equipment?. C/Search the studio's wardrobe and props collection for the items they need and modify them ,a fairly common thing. As I have already indicated, after watching the episode several times, I highly doubt that they are resin cast (a common in shields), they receive an amount of "damage" that brings them closer to modified real shields or shields built from scratch but with the same materials than a real one ,in short, we are talking about plastics. After having reached the final design, they can easily have ordered the necessary sheets from any company that works with polycarbonate, with the shape cut, folded, and the geometric pattern already milled or engraved. Doing the finish painting and putting the handles in the studio's prop workshop , regarding whether this can be done. I have also been talking about it with an advertising printing production technician , and he let me know that any large format printing press company dedicated to advertising , usually has the necessary machines for die cutting, bending and machining, methacrylates, ABS, forex, polycarbonate, etc... .. https://www.brettmartin.com/images/default-source/plastic-sheets/industry-case-study-images/application-spotlight-images/fabrication-spotlight-1-police-riot-shield-600x350536b1923-1dd9-4445-9b6d-885aaeced6c2.jpg?sfvrsn=61fcc077_15 https://www.brettmartin.com/ Obviously it's my opinion and I'm opening this thread to get more points of view, it would be great to have first hand information from someone who was on set. there are 16 large shields and 4 small shields. The width of the front part seems to be the same measurement, however on the large shield the "wings" seem larger and with fewer degrees. The height of the small shield seems to be the size of the large one WITHOUT the "window", in such a way that the geometric shape could use the same template for both, adding the small "wiew slot". Using chatgpt ,with the measuraments of the my buckle as a reference of a real item and superimposing a layer on the most complete photographs and then leaving only that layer: SCREENSHOTS: On the back there are not many screenshots available, but there are enough of the support elements that must be assumed common for the two shields and it is clearly seen that apart from the handles, the foam/forex, are painted in black. the handles on the left look like a kayak ones: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Kayaks-correas-moldeadas-extremo-paquete/dp/B009DF8PIC/ref=sr_1_4?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ivbQnwpozrpCiX3bxGAUn0wgZhqjR4H_M-x6sGJMUiVqRSo2GZDHX0xF_i6fSJmKpepCtL4xZ-WLMyQDFSTrPcDVF9_1e2XMdSST5nvEzfznmLIf29eAJR1P3efXh_jPah9Qg8Sme4I_TPbzR5YlcXRrGvU3k-HkIAghdAvmYkEPImuqXJ8qYxjk3ZnBi0BlOzMBT52gdbbY3yN-q7cSOfpPu-rmqA0ZGMvvPUyNJxEBoxtQCDb0xI4Xs4asELSP26DypOUCzQxQ6InxVcmYkFtN_-QgBKA4jN8AFfB12d93IWMRdOJ9xsQgqI7fAsXetMiebpXfcce1skwmec4NBTXoz60J6CadTskQZzCv1uFijx6NOAFWonHen8V-xPt1G0woIbWQMR7LJw0mSPnerXuASiGdv-E1w0_8RdEyNzCrBg8dpRcBVrjkF9IoeXLn.q3yknZ7_RJ51Pkv74CypE2oe4UyrNyPEK4TDk3KRx_Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=kayak+handles&qid=1737135103&sr=8-4 The handles on the right look something like this : https://www.amazon.com/-/es/tiradores-cuadrados-plástico-gabinete-equipaje/dp/B07YCGWBBM/ref=sr_1_8?__mk_es_US=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=18TZLCQZITBKI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.J59q79WhD6nDUH7LKN6CJ549WYEBc8zn0N6e3POaGcizcZTvXsCKAVIJiakJdMwtrZFjHyAiVICToRIjon972qukfr1tNz2G3Q1ff11GJRrgaExsafiyT-0Cvzp-M7R8CVBgxh9LVjK6VRlkmmZB-M7hLGYWAZAhfOF8tuOuoJkk6RYFY_p4lvOUaVZ-Clc2DncE9b17YymM6hcq4_nEhR_iOKJDbIrWsFmOs752a9RglTNzzpLYRLFTqa3VReisCUQrbUXYGC_9PvA1Wn4NSqPfT4ENMdtgi1QYiQWm0xnrv2Pji4Dtch9kKuuP_fmfVqjt-p5pSrqArtroodHXiKDahpgiWCy4VqBVJcT3BEGXBc6Y_uvoa-nFhVXR7fp7ciUMPvCJ-ogbXt2GtZqRZc6b4dZTHJ7rRpNKoNY66qEEPTz2eDwVKm2n0BAtQYzX.arjk57vTrwMOmFVQSro4ycKmQAmzlBtXyx7MZWxP4WM&dib_tag=se&keywords=plastic+black+handles&qid=1737135532&sprefix=plastic+black+handles%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-8 SCREENSHOTS: EDGES AND MAYBE LAYERS? In my opinion they are two constructions of 2 millimeter polycarbonate or something similar, composed of two layers. One of the layers (the one on the back) with the high-density foam/forex supports, with the handles attached ,another layer (the one on the front) with the engraving, the two layers attached with glue and painted black. In the case of the large shield and since it is the first line, everything is also joined together by the 4 screws that can be seen. I await your ideas and/or opinions. As soon as we agree on some measurements and some details, I can make them.I have embedded the photos in the forum to the best of my ability/knowledge.Sorry for my use of English, I hope all the text is understandable, I'm a little rusty. If the moderators consider it appropriate to move this post to another thread, let them do so. Likewise, I can provide moderators access to a folder with the screenshots in case they consider it appropriate to upload them to the thread. Greetings.

Boots done! What do you guys think? Action pose:

This is a composite ribbed fabric with a thickness of 5mm. I added Velcro to it and it perfectly blends with the leg armor.

Since my approval years ago I see that the CRL changed and update the TU for the helmet. I searched around and found the WTF was able to provide one for me...but it's awful. The quality of the resin case was very bad and the scale seemed off compared to the CRL photos.... So I've modeled my own for 3d printing and I'm giving the files away. If you spot any glaring inaccuracies, I'm willing to try to fix it or share the fusion source. Merry Christmas! nocjef TX66667 IATCommUnit.3mf

With great satisfaction I inform you that my Mudtrooper has been approved by my Garrison! Thanks to everyone for the support!!! I made this costume trying to meet all the requirements to be a "Specialist", I hope I will succeed. In a few days I will forward the request in the appropriate section of the forum...

Well... I think this journey is pretty much over 🥲 Thank you so much for your support ❤️ Today I sent the photos to my Garrison GMLs for approval. Here are some oh them showing the full costume and weathering. I hope it will be approved as is, otherwise I will make the changes they ask me...

This is awesome. Thanks everyone for the work in getting this to the finish line.

We received the new images last night and are editing them. LMOs are standing by for our upload. Very close everyone.

Thanks for all the great job. Can't wait to see all this photos at you wip BigJasoni

Good news, the LMOs have approved this as a NTTL costume for placement with us, we can continue the CRL development and costume refinements!

I'm back! Lately I've had a lot to do and little time to dedicate to the Muddie, also a lot of the work was gathering informations, taking measurements, strengthening some pieces, adding snaps. In short, little that could be photographed. But I finally got to painting! On the inside of all the pieces I applied a dense primer in order to seal the fiberglass (one of those products that take forever to dry 😨). On the external side I applied two layers of a gray universal primer: Note that the upper belt is missing because the one I received from Philoprops is already painted and with partial weathering. As a second phase I applied two layers of matt black paint: In a few days I will apply the texture on the helmet, and then proceed with painting all the pieces with Pantone 350U green. In the meantime I decided to take care of the respirator. Here are the parts I will use: - Straps, two-piece buckles and 4mm hex socket cap screws provided by a friend of mine from the 501st Italica Garrison, who became a Mudtrooper before me - other buckles taken from the famous Yugoslavian backpack (they have rusted a little, and I would say this is a very good thing 🥰) - Isopon Aluminum mesh to put in the filters and in front of the mouth - disks that I cut out of a forex panel to close the filters internally. In the next post I think I will be able to show the respirator almost finished and ready for weathering!

As far as 3d print files Christhepropguy has the most accurate files. His kenobi clone trooper is very accurate witch is the same armor. If you buy those files and message chris he will give you the purge trooper specific parts aswell. Definitely get the helmet from kenyon. He is the only one who has a totally accurate helmet.

@Chaos thanks for the tag in on it! I'm a little hesitant on using this thread to work on the 3D modeling of the costume. I'd like to keep this thread for pulling the reference images out and then drafting the text. I'll go ahead and create a 3D modeling development thread for the past few questions. @Andreas Funk

Andreas, wir haben in letzter Zeit nicht viel an der CRL gearbeitet. Die größten Herausforderungen sind 1: Referenzfotos und 2: Jemand, der einen Bausatz gebaut hat, der als Diskussionsstoff für die CRL-Entwicklung verwendet werden könnte. Wenn Sie sich aktiv an der Diskussion und Entwicklung der CRL beteiligen und Ihren Build als Beispiel verwenden möchten, sind wir gerne bereit, den CRL-Prozess für dieses Kostüm fortzusetzen. Zumindest müssten wir mit klaren Fotos in höherer Auflösung von jedem Teil Ihres Kostüms beginnen, und zwar weitgehend in der gleichen Reihenfolge und Ausrichtung wie die CRL für eine bereits fertiggestellte CRL. Am besten geeignet wäre wahrscheinlich der Death Trooper, da es den Anschein hat, dass viele der im DT verwendeten Produktionsdesigntechniken auch im Gen 3 Dark Trooper verwendet wurden. Sobald wir Ihre Fotos haben, können wir beginnen, Ihre Fotos mit den Referenzfotos zu vergleichen und mit dem CRL-Verbiage-Prozess zu beginnen. Ich werde den Kommandostab markieren, damit er mitmachen kann, und auch @HidingInCosplay, der, wie Sie wissen, auch einen Kostümbau abgeschlossen hat. Ich bin zu 98 % mit meinen modifizierten 3D-Dateien unter Verwendung vorhandener Dateien und Bildschirmreferenzfotos fertig und zu 30 % mit dem Druck fertig. Wenn wir eine CRL erstellen wollen, ist es meiner Meinung nach die beste Vorgehensweise, eine Bildschirm-„Helden“-CRL zu verwenden und nicht die Disney-Requisite, da wir die CGI-Bilder reproduzieren müssen, die für das Erscheinungsbild des Dark Trooper erstellt wurden. Wenn wir von Detachment Leadership das „Go ahead“ erhalten, wird sich dieser Thread höchstwahrscheinlich in einen echten CRL-Diskussionsthread verwandeln. Stehen Sie bereit und bereiten Sie die Fotos vor. Jeder, der Fotos veröffentlichen möchte, muss diese auf einer Foto-Sharing-Site wie Imgur platzieren und die Option „Direkter Link“ verwenden, um diese Fotos in seinem Build-Thread zu platzieren. Es macht es viel einfacher, wenn wir mit dem Diskussionsprozess beginnen. Andreas, we haven't done much development on the CRL lately. The biggest challenges are 1: reference photos, and 2: Someone who has built a kit that could be used as a discussion piece for the CRL development. If you would like to be actively involved in the discussion and development of the CRL and use your build as an example we would be more than willing to continue the CRL process for this costume. At a minimum we would need to start with clear higher resolution photos of each piece of your costume much in the same order and orientation as the CRL for an already completed CRL. Probably the best one to use would be the Death Trooper as it appears much of the production design techniques used in the DT were also used in the Gen 3 Dark Trooper. Once we have your photos we can begin to compare your photos to the reference photos and begin the CRL verbiage process. I will tag the Command Staff @IcyTrooper @Dropkick @RAIDER @Blackwatch @rickyboyblue @SithThundercracker @Katiebug0747 @tipperaryred @Darth Corndog so they can chime in and also @HidingInCosplay who as you know has also completed a costume build. I am 98% with my modified 3D files using existing files and screen reference photos and 30% printing complete. If we are going to do a CRL I think the best course of action is to go with a screen "hero" CRL and not the Disney Prop as we need to replicate the CGI imaging that was done to the Dark Trooper's appearance. If we get the "Go ahead" from Detachment Leadership, most likely this thread will transform into an actual CRL Discussion thread. Stand by and get those photos ready. Anyone who is going to post photos will need to place those on a photo sharing site such as Imgur and use the "Direct Link" option to place those photos into their Build thread. It makes it a lot easier when we start the discussion process.

So I took @MKE-Trooper up on his offer and am taking his helmet. I'm excited to see it, thanks brother!

Small but important update! Got my custom boots in from Crowprops in a day early! They fit perfectly! Now all soft parts are done!

I thougth I already started this....who knows I probably didnt mash the SEND IT!! button hard enough. Ok, heres the breakdown: Green- in hand Amber- in progress / ordered Red-figgerin' it out as I go Helmet - Pilot Bay Armor - Pilot Bay Overbelt-Pilot Bay Underbelt-I have old belts laying about Thermal detonator - Pilot Bay Balaclava - Amazon Flight Suit - Jim Tripon Compad - 3d printed Gloves - in progress gloves from amazon that need to be modded with the slit Tactical vest - a big pile of fabric on my table Shoulder ammo pouch - uhhhhhhhhhhhh..............working on it Holster - Darmans props Boots - Crow Props DLT-19-I have filament and im not afraid to use it Thermal detnator-its the CRL model

WIP on the shields. I've one real and used shield that a friend gave me, saving it from going to waste ,It was quite deteriorated due to its use in practice but I am using it to do painting tests and visual comparisons of the grades of the side "wings". Regarding the holster, in the photo it is mounted on a belt section, as soon as I have a moment I will do a fit test with the belt and the baton + photo

Sorry for the delay - I had to dig my secondhand Walt's kit out of the WIP bins. The greeblies have been attached on mine (separate pieces, not part of the vacuum-form). The guy that I bought the kit from didn't mention having to source any parts, so I'm guessing that the greeblies were included along with the printed inserts for the back. [img]https://i.imgur.com/nv8YcVr.jpeg[/img]

Im knees deep in my own! Im glad to see this wip! I held a Wampawear inferno / Iden suit today and its very soft/ light/ non structured. Im very curious how your crow suit will be. I orderd a Jim Tripon suit last night for my own build, and ill be evaluating that suit once I get it. Thanks so much for posting, we need more Dels!

Figured that I should post a picture of my approved costume, in case anyone was thinking of using the same vendor. Tunic, pants, hat, and boots are Keep Trooping. Belt and boxes are from @Horus’ Aldhani Trooper kit. Gloves are German army surplus. Joker who took the photo with my eyes closed - my brother.

I suppose that I should post a picture of the approved costume:

FIrst update- Happy to report that the first plate printed without any issues! The second plate of greeblies is currently printing. Here's a look at the results: While I have my resin printer going, I also started up my P1S to print the first plate of ABS parts. here's a look at that: Im printing the ABS parts at a .28 layer height. While for PLA this would be quite high, for ABS it works just fine. It sands quite easily, and printing at a higher layer heigh will allow me to print through the pieces much faster. Im also going to do my best to accurately calculate how much money is going into this kit, as I mentioned before that it can be more cost effective than purchasing a kit. If you take a look at this image, it's saying that this plate costs $1.64. However, I recalculated it with the accurate filament price, and it nets out to $1.48.

The arm mold has been completed and is currently being produced.

The hip armor mold and back waist armor mold have been completed.

A lot of the same vendors who do regular stormtrooper kits have helmets, if you have the black paint to match the armor. Anovos (second hand, eBay) Denuo Novo (US) Walt's Trooper Factory (US) Authentic Props (AP, Canada) RS Prop Masters (UK) RWA Creations (UK) RT-Mod (Canada) Armor Master (AM, US) MTK now sold by Imperial Surplus (US)

I have my old set of coveralls for sale in the sales topics, cleared L2. If nothig else you can modify a white pair of coveralls and dye to te green shade. Im workig wth Wampawear to develop the correct green that we need, but prototyping is a VERY slow back and fort process with the manufacturers.

and some tests of the amor with and without the soft parts and boots. https://imgur.com/a/isHshml

Detailing all looks good to me 👍

@Andreas Funk @IcyTrooper @tipperaryred What do you think guys? We good with the chest and shoulder armor? If so I can save this and post up the back armor. I am really surprised more people haven't chimed in on this. I guess we will hear from others when we go live with this. They always seem to have comments after all the work is done.

I'm really not sure why I didn't do this sooner, but I'm about to wrap up this build and wanted to capture what I've done so far so it's a fast transition once we finish up the CRL. Additionally, this gives me an opportunity to better spell out some of the things we've discussed in the build thread without adding an additional couple pages to an already long thread. Please be sure and follow the CRL discussion here: WARNING: MASSIVE POST/ PIC DUMP COMING UP So, here we go: Armor: Chest/ Back/ Shoulders- Empire3d/ Bozzy1979/ (Starbug Props on Thingiverse) Armor currently not available on Thingiverse. This was a fun selection. Chris (Bozzy) and I began discussing the subtle changes from the Mudtrooper/ ICAT design back in February 2023. It started with a couple design changes for the shape of the chest, but following the release of pics from Andor, we started noticing additional changes from previous iterations that truly made this armor set unique. Here's some pictures that started the conversation: So, these are pictures of the Armor worn on Aldhani, but we learned in making that CRL that the same pieces were shared between the scenes. When this pic first popped up in the lead-up to Andor, I kind of dismissed it knowing that Diego Luna is a lot more lean than most actors/ troopers. The overall shape of the armor seemed to be identical to the Muddy, but when other pics started popping up, we agreed that an armor update was necessary. Here's the confirmation pic: I'm pretty sure everyone's seen these pics, but it's still important to note a couple things. First, take a look at the shape of the bottom of the armor where the chest and back meet. As I stated, I initially dismissed the changes as a "one-off," but by the time Rix Road aired, changes started getting discussed from head to toe. The other thing that's always fun about changing armor designs is that once you focus on something, you start noticing it in other places as well. Here's a picture of the same armor worn by the ICAT drivers in the Mandalorian, which we know were reused Muddy pieces from Solo: So these curved bottom armor pieces have been around for a while, they've just been overlooked until now. For the Security Trooper discussion, we wanted to make sure it was captured. The verbiage we agreed on in the draft is: The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This doesn't mean that the curves need to be identical to this picture, it simply means that the connection isn't a "straight shot." The other thing that needed to be accounted for is that this design is not the same as a Shoretrooper, which doesn't "swoop" down. Here's the final design Chris came up with: So, I started printing: I'll get to the helmet, goggles and arm pieces in a couple minutes: This was all done in IEMAI Carbon Fiber filament. If you've never worked with the stuff, it's great, but very susceptible to stringing. You can get it in Carbon Fiber PLA, PETG and ABS, but even the PLA is extraordinary. Typically I avoid any variation of PLA, but I've tested it in temperatures exceeding 120f. and haven't seen any of the adverse effects of typical PLA prints. Also, as you can see from the above finished chest, the stringing is simple to wipe off, even while it's still attached to the build plate. Finally, the stuff prints smooth and can be sanded even smoother without melting the plastic which is common with PLA. I started filling sanding and primer and this is what the results looked like: Center details Right side details Left back box greeblies Right back box greeblies After sanding, smoothing, and painting, this is what I was left with: The chest looks satin in this picture, but I think it's because of the lighting. I cast this buckle in resin, but also cast one using some leftover urethane. Both turned out identical and are equally functional. However, while both are resilient, the urethane buckle is nearly indestructible. As long as it takes paint good, that may be how I proceed. Back Box closeup Slanted hose connectors Ok. So here's where I had to get a little tricky. There are a few small corrections that need to be made for an Andor set. First, the rectangular hole up towards the collar needed to be filled. This is definitely visible, with the little loop, on Mudtroopers, but it's nonexistent on the Aldhani or Ferrix kit. A little 5 minute epoxy worked just fine. However, with the little detail piece at the bottom left of the back armor, the file "slants" the detail down towards the medial line of the back. I don't know how else to say that, but see if you can tell from these pics: I know it's tough to see, but essentially, the "rim" of that "stepped" rectangular greeblie should be approximately 5mm tall all the way around. In actuality, it's about 5mm on the left "stepped" side and flush on the right. I'm sure a steady sculpting hand and some Miliput would have worked, but I just went onto Fusion 360 and created a new piece fairly quickly. With that set, I busted out the Dremel and got to work. After cutting, filling, sanding, primer and paint, I was left with this: This picture also clearly shows the stepped bottom ledge of the backpack and the five vents on the side Shoulders- Empire3d Chris and I spoke about the shoulders briefly because in the Aldhani discussion there was some brief conversation about the top being deliberately angled instead of following a gentle curve. Ultimately we decided against that, but Chris still adjusted the detail stripes and overall shape to appear more consistent with what we saw on screen. Ultimately, I couldn't be happier with the design. This was some great work and they printed almost flawlessly in the CF Filament: Raw print Side by side with the old design Sanded, filled, primed, coated, and ready for paint: Finished. Again, the lighting is playing tricks on the finish, but I assure you, this is not satin. Biceps- MrPaulShoretrooperBuild Not much to say here except that the biceps were discussed at length in the CRL thread. We see pictures of troopers wearing just the outer shell of the biceps (see Casian picture above), but this appears to be mostly for "stunt" purposes. I opted to go with the MrPaul set for their accuracy and for how well they work with the new Empire 3D shoulder design. Also, since I didn't do rank bars on my Aldhani armor, I can get away with swapping sets between the two costumes. Here's the pics: Flexible filament (framilon/ TPU) holding the shells closed Suspended with framilon from Empire3d shoulders Finished Shins: Armor: MrPaulShoretrooperBuild It seems like every new costume is using shoretrooper shins, so I went with the most accurate ones out there. Here's my complete set... And two reference photos. In putting together the Aldhani CRL, we were told that they opted not to go with shin armor because it all got broke during the Rix Road scene. That may be true, but in this second pic, we can still see that they used shins with a pretty distinct structural design underneath. Though I've used the Empire 3d ones in the past for my Muddy and ICAT, I didn't want to ignore this design (though nobody would ever look). I circled the "ribs" in red above and you can see in the below picture what this looks like on the MrPaul files: Honestly, it doesn't really matter, but I do like how these shins feel. You can barely see it in this pic, but the pyramid greeblies underneath the knee armor has a very distinct shape; they're not symetrical. Again, it's nothing anyone's going to bust out calipers to check, but I might as well incorporate this if I can. Notice the weathering of the boots and shin armor. I'll get to that in a second. Also, of note: the rough texture was done deliberately after I noticed how all the boots and shin armor in the Rix Road scenes are moderately to heavily weathered with grey "mud." I'll get to this later, but this texture adds to the effect and looks great. Buckles: Molded from original Martin Baker ejection harness buckles and my strap design. Cast in shore 90 urethane. Originally I cast these in resin, but didn't like how they sat unnaturally against my shin. With the urethane, I'm able to bend the small strap section around my boots and attach to the inside of the shin armor. I'll put more pictures up after I cast the final shin straps. Here's my shin straps ready to be cast in urethane similar to the shoulder straps on the left. Helmet: Fletchasketch3 I've had these helmet and goggle files for a while now and was excited to make another one for this costume. Also, unlike the Mudtrooper in which I put a bicycle helmet to meet the Specialist requirement, this suspension system seemed a lot more simple, but required some sleuth work to figure out what they did on set. The Fletcher files have been covered by others in the forum before, so I'll just show how this all played out. I printed upside down because I haven't done it in a while. I also knew that I was going to spray a layer of truck bed liner over it when I was finished in order to give the bucket a textured "kevlar" look, so I wasn't too concerned with the support remnants. However, if anyone ever considers doing this for something else, I'd say it doesn't really have any benefit other than leaving you with a clean helmet interior. This looks bad, but the Rustoleum bed liner almost levels itself out. This pic was taken about 2 minutes later and you can already see how it's not as nasty as it was before. So, Rustoleum bed liner is great for filling in layer lines, but if you want a textured look, go with Gorilla brand. For the goggles and TU, I opted to use Siraya Tech fast, but I had some extra transparent green stuff lying around. There's not much to say about this other than it looks cool when you're curing it. Also, if I were to do it again, I'd probably use Siraya Tech Blu or Siraya Tech Build. Blu is impact resistant, so dropping it isn't an issue, and build has similar properties, but can also be drilled and tapped. See, it looks cool. 😆 Here's a good pic of those support remnants I was talking about earlier. Again, after sanding and bed liner, they're invisible, but it's still worth showing what a person's up against if they print helmets on their dome. Now, with the easy stuff taken care of, it was time to turn my attention towards strapping this stuff on. We looked at a lot of pictures while discussing the Aldhani costume, but ultimately didn't include the helmet in the CRL. However, this first picture really gives us a good look at buckles and the chin strap. Initially I wanted to do everything the same as my Mudtrooper kit, but it became apparent that this was much different. The buckles were the big giveaway, but there were a few other things that kept popping up, i.e. goggles permanently attached to the helmet. Regardless, a few of us started hunting stuff down and this is what we came up with. Big thanks to @NoZoupForYou for identifying the serated buckles and getting me a set as well as a chin cup. Notice the green lenses in this pic. I'll get to that later. These side buckles were a little more difficult to find, but still manageable. However, notice how different actors have their buckles threaded differently. This second guy above has a tighter loop, while the Aldhani trooper I put up first has the ends kind of dangling. Regardless, I did the dangling thing and came up with this: I also put the gunmetal buckles on here, but I'm going to change them out for the chrome ones. Honestly, I just ordered gunmetal by accident. I'm still waiting on some black line snaps, but they should be here today. Also, we decided to go with the olive drap 3/4" webbing for the strap. This most closely replicates what's seen on screen. Gunmetal vs. Chrome Helmet padding. Thank God the costume department didn't shove another skateboarding helmet inside the trooper bucket. This time they opted to do some kind of 3" strapping system as seen here: However, they also opted to do a 3" padding system as shown below. What's kind of funny is that when you look at the two examples, both have a ring of webbing/ padding going around the crown of the helmet (pressing against the forehead), but the webbing in the first pic shows a cross piece extending across the top, basically from ear to ear, while the second picture shows this padding extending over the top of the head from forehead to rear. I decided to hone in on the second example and emulate what I see. Additionally, the padding seems a lot more functional than the webbing or whatever that is in the first pic. Also, while I'm on this picture, notice how the goggles definitely aren't permanently attached to the helmet, and take note of how the rubber trim around the goggles has a little thickness to it. This shows up a couple times throughout the Rix Road scenes and it seems like each time the rubber is different. Apparently, QC on these goggles wasn't as heavily regulated as typical. Regardless, here's my final padding choice: So, going back to the goggles, I cut out my silicone rim as I usually do, but then mounted that to a piece of 3mm EVA to give the trim a little more structure. I really like this and am thinking about doing the same thing to my Muddy costume. By the way... gluing anything to silicone is tricky, but it can be done. And here it is complete. As soon as my black snaps come in, I'll finish the chin strap. I'll be a little quicker with the remaining items because there's not much to tell. Belt: I did the leatherwork and used my Wampawear buckle. However, I switched out the code disc for one without grooves from BaileyBuildDesigns. Belt Boxes: Empire3d Chris took the dimensions straight from the CRL discussion and made thes boxes. I added the clips and the end result was the absolute best belt box I've ever used for any costume. I like this so much I'm likely going to make molds and cast a set out of either resin or urethane this weekend. The addition of the heavy duty clips is something I'm moving to with all my costume belts. Soft Parts: I'm making my own and will post additional pictures later. Big thing is that per our discussion in the CRL development thread, I'm using waxed canvas and getting everything down perfect. This is a good look. 😆 And with sleeves. Anyways, I'll post more as I finish this up. Thanks for the interest.

Updated pics are coming ASAP.

Well...it's been a minute! I haven't forgotten about you Spec Ops or my Death Trooper build. Just was focused on getting stuff done for DragonCon and now that it is done, here's an update of what's happened since last time. So back in May, I was painting the helmet parts to get the gloss black look. After still getting the orange peel look, my garrison had an armor party in June. I brought my kit and talked to more experienced troopers and they told me straight up to ditch the Rustoleum and either use Duplicolor (which I now have), or Montana Gold. I also have acquired the 2K clear coat. When I wet-sanded it and applied the Duplicolor and 2K, I got myself a spray tent and fan and had a very cool/low humidity day to try my hand at it. There was noticeable improvement, but I didn't give the 2K enough time between coats (only 5 min. as opposed to 15 min.) Since we are in the high 60s/low 70s now in Chicago, I'm going to take another attempt at painting the helmet and other parts before winter. But today was another big step. I met up with my GML and brought everything over for a proper test fit and to get the strapping down. I had already connected the shoulders to the biceps and did the cording for those, so we set the snaps in place for the shoulders to the back plate near the neck. I also practiced walking with my Crowprops shoes, shins and thighs. I can move pretty comfortably in everything. My next bit of homework is attaching the snaps for the kidney armor to the back armor. We think where we held it in place with duct tape for now is a good spot. If consensus agrees, i'll add the snaps for it it. Then the butt armor will be added next,as we were referencing the Jolly Rogers 1942 Build guide, and attach it to the cod piece. Then the belt afterwards. Overall, I asked my GML what he thought, and encouragingly, he said, "You're close to being done." That was such a morale boost. Any feedback is welcome!

Hi Michael, That sort of question is usually best answered by your local Garrison or Squad. In my own Garrison, I believe the ruling would usually be that if we are attending an official Disney/LFL troop then we are restricted to the props in the character's CRL. However in all other troops (the vast majority), there is no issue at all bringing other suitable props. It is however up to your own local staff to decide.

Ive lost 150 myself, down to 220, so I am totally there with you. I actually have an IAT suit I need to sell.

Star Wars: Empire: The Wrong Side of the War

The CRL is live! https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Purge_trooper_p2

Hey all. Ive been reading back. And have a whack of pics myself. as I’m sewing these funky pants, I have some concerns on text to construction. As well as any concessions on seaming on the rear end. seams- double lapped. With only single seam. There are no center inner or outer leg seams. Only those on the inner panel portion of both front and back. . And circumference around top of knee. Nothing runs down the center outer leg. Nor center inner leg. The little butt panel, I need to discuss this with those judges allowing the construction. Pics I see have no crotch seam or one boing up the rear end. That’s a bit problematic especially if you’d like a nice sleek bum looking fit… ha! I messaged both Daniel and Ryan for a real time phone conversation regarding this color- pale grey for Saxon. White or winter white for the grunts. fabric- some form of mid to heavy weight cotton/spandex/lycra blend. Stretch cotton twill. Heavy weight stretch suiting. I've made 4 pairs of pants thus far and cannot create a nice looking arse with no seam under crotch. I await messages from those in charge of this CRL. Thank you!!!!

Like most of you I am extremely happy/proud of my finished Death Trooper armor and wanted a way to display it when not in use. I thought it was as simple as purchasing a mannequin off of Amazon but I quickly realized that wasn't going to work. After lots of research I came up with a pretty cool posable mannequin with moveable base. I thought I would post this just incase anyone else was interested. First, here is what it looks like finished Shopping list: Mannequin Torso 16 inch Square Plant Dolly Black Metal Mounting Flange for 1-inch Poles with Screws 4 Hinged Elbow Connector Curtain Rod Corner PVC pipes and connectors Duct Tape JB Weld to reinforce the PVC seams Pool Noodles Wire Packing foam material I had laying around References: Creating A Cheap Posable Mannequin Display Youtube video: How to Make a Posable Mannequin Steps: Removed the arms that came with the Mannequin torso and cut a hole to insert the PVC pipe into the shoulders Attached a Curtain Rod Corner for each shoulder joint Measured forearm and upper arm, cut PVC pipe to length and connected them to the Shoulder Curtain Rod Corner and Elbow Curtain Rod Corner Wrapped forearm and biceps with pool noodle and foam packing material for shape Followed the How to Make a Posable Mannequin video for creating posable hands Outlined my body on piece of cardboard and then laid the mannequin torso in place. Measured remaining space for PVC pipe Cut PVC to length and secured joints with JB weld to to keep hip joints from bending. Wrapped legs with pool noodles and other packing materials I had laying around to shape legs. Once I have the boots on, it can pretty balance on its own, however I did attach a PVC pipe to the base for extra support which spray painted black. Getting the undersuit and armor on the mannequin is a bit of a process but the result is pretty impressive. Hopefully one or two of you will find this post helpful. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

Mask is coming along nicely now that the printer is dialed in. Going to finish the full helmet and assemble before any finishing to check fit and other details to make sure everything is good first. Print, print, print.

Take a look at this post:

This has been submitted for LMO review.