DizzyStormtrooper

does officer corps detachement have this one?

yeah man just buy a kit. there arent any pep files for the armor anyway, and the pep helmet model thats out there is a little out of proportion, not to mention a huge pain and the materials cost alone.... i do pepakura cuz im experienced with it, but in the end its only worth it for custom pieces like my navy commando or good looking iron man and stuff. for troopers, always more cost efficient and accurate to buy the kits. not to mention comfortable also when it cpmes to smoothing, glass the inside thick enough and you simply sand off the angled high points with a metal file, and you can use a file brush to clean that when it gums up with resin. my NC is too intricate for that though. ive got so many pep files its kind of depressing lol

a small update, ill rough cast the pieces to provide a stronger platform as the bondo is thick to work with, itll make things easier working on resin, so i put edging on after the second bondo sanding. the rough cast will allow me to work more efficiently not having to worry about the fiberglass or flexing n stuff, so i can smooth everything out better on the face too the chin and aerator spaces built up cut out the frown and add lip for the visor to show raised shapes in the rough cast a few more refs, it should be noted that the nc in these 2 pics is a modified version of the ps2 game model. the shins, forearms, belt, belt detonators, shoulder bells, and hands are incorrect and off of a tk model, you can tell in the color difference and weathering, also, the chest and backs are flipped horizontally in error by the modeller corra_ashu who ripped them from the game, but the helmet, torso parts are still valid for reference if someone wants to add them to the reference pic thread. another thing is the knees on this model are supposed to line up with the top ofthe shins, not float upward in a diamond shape seen here

i left everything black, no decals except flat black tube stripes. you could pretty much black everything out, but it looks best with mirror lens and silver teeth, its like a skull in the night.

guess ill be the first game version NC

i cut mine so the overlap areas were 1/2 inch then butt joined them and put inner and cover strips for added durability. my whole build is here http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/2443-dizzys-am-mods-and-build/ but i recommend giving panda's tut a look over http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10434-pandatroopers-am-build-threadam/

yeah, its the same shape just the flair looks like its even all the way around not angled to fit a trooper face plate. who sells atst helmets? i havent been looking hard enough on the armored cav forum id also like to get one of these done too one day riot trooper from TFU2, id presume theyd be spec ops as well since its not quite a saber guard

im gonna have to have a little talk with the crl team about some things in the crl. since it was made using the 'realistic' suit as reference, either an animated (game) version should be separate or at least combined and added under the "optional" area with the current one like the belt and ammo pouches are, or even just make it the specialist requirements since the game is the primary reference. theres also no grey stripe on the chest, thats the shadow on the model implying they had edging like rotj suits, it just looks like a stripe. the squared detonators im in agreement with, even though it wasnt implied graphically by the modelers. i believe the NC wouldnt have full hovi tips, but a smaller version similar to how ep3 clones had different aerator design. id be happy with the front part only as they would be still TK-derived but not stick out like a TK. the game version rear helmet strip should be a flat bar as seen in screenshots, not a snowy/atst detail bit. ill leave the flair flat so people can choose either one. cut the flair the the correct angle, all dimensions are now correct i cut the face off for casting purposes and there wont be a bridge above the visor as when the resin area is cut, there shall be a small gap between the visor and forehead for ventilation/anti-fogging i rough up the resin coating with this dremel bit so the bondo sticks first coat of bondo, while it cures i work on the face

building has resumed! i cut the face off the dome to make things easy and gonna start bondo on the dome. it would be impossible to cast as one piece, so these are gonna be two piece with minimal assembly, though the first run ill probably have assembled and painted. let the bondo begin!

all i remember was the box said just bass. the real ones have the size and info printed on the inside around the ankle area and come in half sizes

i felt bass runs a bit large so next time id go a full size down, but thats just me. and yes throw some dr scholls in them thangs. out of the box they arent great for long troops

what make of the hard parts did you go with?

add some white pinstriping so the blue pops

use everclear before the harsher acetone. you want to separate the glue not the plastic

that thing is tiny on you, and there are many black options immediately available unless AM has those kits formed. but if you havent already, whitearmor.net usually has white ones you can find easily. best bet is to fine one for sale thats around your height/weight someone is selling.

if an exacto knife wont slice through it break out a fine saw blade and pull strokes away from the face, might have to do some sanding after, but at least itll be apart without ripping the abs

its just been sitting as is, been busy with work and other projects, but at least the hard part is done! i made the area for the vocoder but i have to heat up the tubes and get that all connected up

every night todd swims in his safe full of armor parts like scrooge mcduck

i added in these custom tube shim things the lip at the correct angle, the frown will be cut out and teeth put in later, this is just for support for now the nose bridge will be built up with bondo to get the right look, and the flair cut at the right height later, but heres some preliminary sketching to make sure im on the right track the clone tube is modified too, its printed at full size then i squish it to an oval, widen the gap, and glass it to the cheek the other side. the inner cone shape was flat, so you can see how its now a custom shape the camera makes things look wider than they really are, its skinnier in person. but heres a comparison with my AP. and Nick, thats your faceplate in the back

see, you don't need me

im gonna wait til the face is completed to cut the flair at the right angle, the back is good, but the sides will be cut to go up higher, so keep that in mind. here you can see the clone face cut, angled, widened and glassed. this portion serves as "where the visor goes" as well as cheek support the white triangles will keep the inner helmet correct as well as block resin when i cast it getting the right angle and curvature of the nose bridge out of the tk the tk neck ring cut up and glued in to seal the neck for casting and provide the look from the reference and tk tubes

same thing you did with your TK, submit pictures to your GML. also this section is for the silver shadowtroopers from the game, FYI. if you're going all black, thats the blackhole section.

my goal is to eventually do runs of these to provide for the detachments. the base has been comprised of my modified bits and pieces of spacecowboy's tk, fierfek's atst driver, and ep3 clone helmet pepakura files so i have a base to work with and then i merge them all and build the bondo on top so it becomes a custom sculpt. the peps just serve as a skeleton persay. heres the reference im using spacecowboy dome printed at default scale, same size as a real bucket! the cheek inset, you can see how ive modified it from a clone to the more sharp NC style i resin and fiberglass the dome for strength while i take the flair from the atst driver, turn it inside out, and glue it in a way that i get the angle i want in the back and the sides this deforms the rear quarters, so i make a couple relief cuts and glue in filler strips so the flair stays circular all around left half has the relief, you can see how the right half is still oval/conal before the shimming just putting on my kickaround helmet for an general idea of the correct flair angles. after i build the face ill have to make a slight expansion to the back, but not too much as its realistic and you wouldnt be able to move your head going on now are the cheeks and whole reworked face to come soon

i couldnt wait, this had to go up

put some foam inside the forearms so theyll sit lower without moving, other than that, looks great!