DizzyStormtrooper

The superglue bleeds into the cotton like water and hardens in ten seconds, with e6's cure time and rubbery quality its just better with super imo

Mind sharing the file with me?

No problem peter its your job afterall lol. Not sure if it can be used as a remedy on failing armor parts but its basically a low form of fiberglassing so we won't know how well armor holds up until someone tries and troops with a shirt/glue repair.

No tej but I'd say 200 or less would, i've got years of painting experience. And yeah the method has been on the forums floating in posts but nobody has actually made a tutorial about it, I'll probably get right on that.

now the sanding. you want to get as much of the black off as you can. all the high spots out, the runs, drips, bubbles, orange peel, lack of primer, any imperfections out for the best finish when you respray. i scrathed all the tight curved areas with my fingernail, the paint that chips off means it didnt stick well there. i used 320 grit sandpaper and dry sanded everything, even getting down to the original plastic in some areas if i had to, if your fingers arent hurting by the time you finish, you havent sanded well enough it took a good 7 hours (on and off) or 3 days of sanding with 320, then another half hour wetsanding with 400 grit. wet sanding it important AFTER dry sand because there are still areas which may flake off when wet, you want those off, otherwise that causes the new paint to orange peel, and you def dont want to have to sand that down again and do it over. when its as smooth as glass, it might look like this ready to prime! now you have a few options, you can A - spray with clearcoat and try to get it approved as a new urban-camo trooper B - send it back to scootch and unsuccessfully demand a refund or C - continue following my directions gotta keep things funny in this detachment lol next step is to prime and paint

finally finished sanding, what a mild discomfort in another name for a donkey! ok first things first, the mic tip wells are tissue paper thin and very brittle. scootchickles has probably already done the honor of making a backing/washer for the mic tip screw to bolt through, but it wasnt enough so i used the simple tshirt tactic to strengthen it. the left one was fine but the right was already tearing as the glue holding the backing didnt hold. its an optional step, but cut out up old tshirt, a piece in the shape of pacman, with a hole for the screw so you dont need to re drill. get a good quality (not dollar store brand) superglue, make sure its the LIQUID type, not gel. heres what i got for 2 bucks at walmart when you close pacmans mouth, it shapes the cotton into a cone shape (kinda how they make paper funnels or drinking cups), the thing is to "paint" the glue so it soaks the cotton while adhering to the plastic, AND trying not to bunch up the hardening glue. GO SLOW and use TINY amounts of glue at a time, as it hardens it generates heat and can melt the HIPs if theres too much at once, make sure you keep your face away from the fumes and dont be afraid if you see a bit of "smoke", its the plastic binding with the glue, this is why i said go slow. i recommend you wear safety glasses or at least do this outside cuz if the glue fumes get near your eyes theyll dry out like getting cigarette smoke in your eyes and youll tear up hardcore like cutting onions, and you dont want to be a little crybaby. now i take the backing piece that came off and glue that onto the dried cotton, using the mic tip installed so i get the tip at the angle i want it (so both aerators are facing the same way), and the backing prives a base for the bolt to sit onto. you can use the same tshirt technique on little cracks too, i had a crack above the right eye another optional step, i hate hate hate the "bump" on the eye that stunt helmets have. yes its screen accurate, but this isnt the 70's and im not in a rush to get 50 helmets made. i took my best friend (heat gun) and soften up the plastic to bend out the bump. the eyes are slightly more symmetrical and the bump area isnt as obvious anymore. just making this helmet to my liking.

Man why'd you get my hopes up for information that was already available.

did someone even convert that model to pepakura? if so ill build the helmet!

I was just thinking about this armor after I saw that sergeant guy

yeah i have a habit of not showing how i do things, plus i dont want you to get your bucket and be disappointed its not shiney or how you want it or whatever, he did say they were weathered project helmets, so i wanted to show how to re-vamp it so you get approved

i put this here since the tips apply to more than blackhole troopers. i got my 'project helmet' from scootch already assembled and weathered, but lets pretend you reclaimed your helmet from a pack of rabid ewoks and it looks like this: scootch i'm not downing your work, but your old project is now my new project, so it must be up to my exacting standards i'm going to convert to a "low brow", give it a fresh paint job, and replace the rubbers. this is also for Tekket and whoever bought the third weathered helmet. depending on how your helmets assembled it may vary, but these have hot glue covering cut screws, so youll have to use a bit more pressure when unscrewing the screw from the nuts and when you reassemble you may replace them and cut the new ones, but i wont so just be careful not to crossthread them when you put it back together! peel the hot glue off everything, its super easy, use your fingernails. undo the screws and bolts with a small flat head screwdriver, i used pliers to hold the bolts cuz i dont want to dig through my toolbox for a socket. the gross tumor of a forehead was left on mine, this bump makes the dome stick out slightly from the face, but i hate it so i look at the assembly thread to establish a trim line then cut it using my 97 cent walmart scissors. hips is a LOT easier to trim than abs, so be careful not to crack it or whatnot. now that the dome wont have the big brow gap and the face/dome are separated, sand that baby down for some paintage.

Its about time.. I thought I informed you of pandatroopers build thread awhile ago. I hope you bought your clamps magnets and glue already

And I'll look for a specific grey or silver. Btw both colors should be allowed since it's allowed for frowns

Add by a third party server? firstly the texture files exist, and it's right there on the pix. There are only two possibilities of it even being there anyway, it was a hidden or unused game model, which there's the wiki pic so we know it existed before five found it, or 2, it's a mod and someone changed the texture (you can do that in paint) and replaced the storm commando hence the name, in the game files. Since those are ruled out is say it's a safe bet we can make it approvable in the same manner as the medic. I know a bit about mods having done lots in Jedi outcast and gta San Andreas

Looks like a gray darker than primer but lighter than 1138, but id like to think its a dull silver considering there's gold ones

I was thinking regular black shadow troopers were grunts, unless Novas are considered a different class..

the gold version with pauldron is labeled as nova commander, gold with no pauldron as colonel i think it says, was hard to read. maybe this grey (possibly silver) is a nova sergeant?

i love it! id consider painting that (or most likely grey vinyl wrap) on my armor, although if there was a crl made for it i would hope we could use grey pauldrons with it, the orange looks like ish. why dont we come up with a name for it? nova specialist, maybe nova commando or something.

Think about bathroom breaks

For the undersuit most of us use compression shirt/pants like you'd wear for running, If you can't find that locally (which you should be asking your garrison) click that 2 for $29 button and get the pants with it http://www.eastbay.com/product/model:140817/sku:6843102/eastbay-evapor-compression-mock-mens/all-black/black/?cm=GLOBAL%20SEARCH%3A%20KEYWORD%20SEARCH International shipping info: Australia, Belgium, Germany, Hong Kong, Ireland, Japan, Luxemburg, Netherlands, New Zealand, South Korea, Taiwan, United Kingdom Delivery time: approximately 7-10 calendar days from the date of shipment. Orders will generally ship within 24 hours via UPS, subject to payment verification.

i got my AM from mypropcollection on ebay, im sure a lot of us have. its the same guy. im about the same in terms of build as you, and theres a build thread that shows how to trim it down to our size. doesnt come with a helmet (and for good reason) but we're here to answer questions!

Personal preference, the chrome is more visible when your suiting up or down, less time looking around when attaching things as the armor is dark enough lol

I havent made return edges cuz it looks sharper but thats just me, plus I don't want to risk losing the shine. You can get away with a lot with the white armor, excess glue, loss of shine, but the black is capped with a clear acrylic coat which gives it the gloss, I think ata and cap armors need to be painted or polished to achieve that. If you look at some other TX's that made return edges you might see what I mean. And yes E6000 is easy enough to use, but takes forever to cure! Soon I'll post an assembly tips thread as ive used some different elements I want to share. A heat gun is also a good investment for the arms and belt

Congratulations! There are a few examples of strapping threads in the assembly/tutorial section of fisd, basically pick one you think youd be most comfortable with! Not sure about the scissors (cuz I used the score and snap method) but definitely hit up the terror australis garrison forum and you might be able to find a trooper near you for help. The extra plastic you cut off, and there will be a lot, save save save! You can make finishing strips, snap plates, and inner support strips from them. The snaps most get are "tandy line 24 snaps", its a good idea to get the 100 pack from ebay or Amazon as you'll need fifty or sixty for the whole suit.