izzi

I'm trying to talk to the LMOs to see if I can get the CRL unlocked to edit a clarification.

Yes it can. The hat is an option instead of the helmet, and we have references supporting it.

All the info that is currently available about the changes can currently be found in this thread: http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/5771-notice-changes-to-the-imperial-army-trooper-crl-battle-armor-more/

There aren't enough LMOs.

I can only focus on so many things with the LMOs at a time. I'm able to start editing the Engineer this week so we can make that a 501st approvable costume. After that I'll post up the details of the proposed Trooper split.

Have him contact us.

Yeah, pretty much. Now that I'm back, let me get through this weekend. I'm learning Photoshop to try and push to get the Engineer CRL finalized on the Legion side so we can start approvals. I'll try and get the new Trooper CRLs organized and out for Det review.

Blasters are an option, holsters are not.

In the comics the Troopers actually don't carry blaster rifles or sidearms, which is why holsters are not an option. They're strictly building the fortifications and running ammo to the heavy weapons. It's only when the IA is being overrun by the natives that they issue the Troopers E-11s and some man the E-Webs.

Yes

The holster is most likely a rigid leather or plastic base. it's actually missing a side, and nylon/canvas wouldn't hold the shape to reholster the weapon.

Answered in your other thread.

The new CRL will allow for either black or olive drab goggles with dark lenses. As long as they are a good match with the reference material, I will work with the LMOs and GMLs to be sure they pass.

This one would probably just fall under a normal imperial officer variant. It's an officer's tunic and Jodhpurs with the helmet. We are steering clear of that one currently as it would probably best fit with the Imperial Officer's Corps. After we have the IA units ironed out, we may look at that one if IOC doesn't want to spend time on it. -izzi

Thank you for the pics!

The sheen of the RS armor would have to be judged by the GML. However, anything that would match the sheen of your average gloss spray paint, is accepted.

From that picture, it looks like a gloss armor. It's not a "high-gloss" that shows reflections, but it does seem like a gloss that would meet CRL standards. It could probably use a good polish though, it seems to be hazy in some areas, but probably from oils during handling.

Awesome. Congrats!

There are enough inaccuracies in this one that it would be better to use the Engineer CRL as the base and build on top of that for the sapper. Eventually that will be tackled,. Once we have the Engineer photos in place and that process going we will be reformatting and revising the IA Trooper though.

Proposal is live. For final version, REFERENCE THE CRL DOCUMENT: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_swamptrooper CRL Swamp Trooper Required Costume Components Special Notes: The armor is gloss, semi-gloss, satin or matte green and may be slightly weathered to look as if white is showing through with minor scuffs/dirt. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). [*]Soft parts may be slightly weathered with scuffs/dirt to match the armor. [*]Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. The following costume components are present and appear as described below. New image Helmet For 501st approval: Eye lens is dark green Helmet has scout detailing in black Visor bolts a blue-grey The Snout is grey with black details Licensed helmets are acceptable with modifications: any deformation of the helmet shape (helmet flare) is corrected remove the manufacturer logo replace stock lens replace inaccurate "fish-hook" logo replace stock bolts with flat-disc "elevator" bolts replace inaccurate aerator. repaint to match armor [*]Fan-made helmets are acceptable as long as they remain true to shape of original screen accurate helmet. For level two certification (if applicable): Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Film-accurate black scout details are present, either painted or decals. They should be contrasting the rest of the helmet Film-accurate grey snout detail and black aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting black to the armor. Film-accurate black squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder" Film-accurate helmet snout/aerator detail, mounted onto a plate and painted black/ grey to the helmet Film-accurate black rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern Film-accurate three black lines on center of forehead area [*]No mesh material mounted in the ears. [*]Properly shaped ear holes are installed. [*]Black 3M bolts or replicas of in the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). [*]No visible seams on the dome. [*]Optional: Chin cup Existing image Balaclava For 501st approval: A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Existing image Flight Suit For 501st approval: The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately.# Stand-up collar which conceals the neck and with enclosing strap to keep the collar closed. Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund, rectangle in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stop slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside. Suede or faux suede thigh patches must be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 50mm (2") black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch. See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below. Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets). For level two certification (if applicable): Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy. Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit and resemble those seen on screen, size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted, no external visible stitching. Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained. Existing image Shoulder Armor For 501st approval: Black Elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. They do not have any adornment. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 12mm (1/2") black elastic strap. Bottom corners are rounded. Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops Existing image Upper Arm Armor For 501st approval: Armor has a recessed area with a "t-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. For level two certification (if applicable): Film-accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm. Armor is secured around the arm with a 35mm ( 1.5") black elastic strap. Existing image Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap. Existing image Gloves For 501st approval: Black leather and gauntlet length. Detailed gloves include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. [*]There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps. For level two certification (if applicable): Real black suede leather padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching. New image Vest For 501st approval: Made out of black, matte finish, heavy weight cotton fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener. For level two certification (if applicable): The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund. Existing image Chest Armor For 501st approval: There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that may be painted black. The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of green fabric. The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic. For level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of black cotton webbing. Nylon webbing is inaccuate [*]Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 40mm (1.5") black webbing or elastic strap. Existing image Back Armor For 501st approval: The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the seen used armor Top detail piece is painted full matte black The tank has a black stripe detail. Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 6 stripes. For level two certification (if applicable): Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Only 1, 4 or 6 stripes on tank are acceptable. Bullet tank on the back armor has film-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single black colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment green rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable. New image Cummerbund For 501st approval: Made from matte dark green, heavy weight cotton fabric. Closes in back with 50mm (2") hook and loop fastener. Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist. There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund. Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail. (not chevron) Made from the same material as the bund in gray color that matches the snout [*]Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 50mm (2") black elastic strap. [*]Front of cummerbund has 5-6 equal ribs stitch, centered between the two fabric pouches according to wearers size. [*]ribs are of equal width. [*]ribs are completely visible between the pouches. [*]poches mounted to touch the chest armor. [*]pouches slightly overlaps the belt. [*]Pouches are made of matching dark green fabric. For level two certification (if applicable): The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest. There is no visible external edge stitching on the bund, the cod or pouch flaps. Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouch Size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang. Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL or Costumes book. Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area. Optional: codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the undersuit. New image Belt and Detonator For 501st approval: The front and two "boxes" of the belt are made of hard material. The remainder of the belt that fastens at the back of the waist, is made from a textile material (webbing). Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes). Drop boxes are green and also made from plastic. Drop boxes are connected to the belt via dark green textile straps. [*]Attached to the back of the belt is a green rectangular thermal detonator box with short black corrugated hose. [*]The correct thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. [*]The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. [*]On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper. [*]See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies. [*]The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 50mm (2") black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet For level two certification (if applicable): The belt is made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. The straps to attached the drop boxes to the belt are made from 40mm (1 1/2") black cotton webbing Nylon webbing is inaccuate Drop boxes hang at the correct distance from the belt [*]The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 50mm (2") black cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single green rivet [*]Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat. [*]Optional: Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt, as seen in the film. [*]Optional: Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Existing image Knee Armor For 501st approval: Knees are gray to match the snout. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. For level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The first is 25mm (1") wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 12mm (1/2") wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor Rivets are in green color New image Boots For 501st approval: Green marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance. Slightly textured vinyl is acceptable. [*]The soles of the boot are black. [*]A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. [*]The boots are secured up the back using 25mm (1") black hook and loop fastener. [*]The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. For level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen on the references. The boot sole is a single black color with no visible stitching. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Boots made using the "boot tutorial" (available on BSN.net) are the only boots accepted. Existing image Holster For 501st approval: Attached to the outside right side of the right boot with black rivets. Not straps. [*]The blaster pistol fits into the holster For level two certification (if applicable): Attached with four green colored rivets. There is no rank striping visible. Optional Accessoires: Existing image Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple. For level two certification (if applicable): May be worn, but is not required. Existing image Hold-out Blaster For 501st approval: Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. For level two certification (if applicable): The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. No drilled barrels. The screen used ones did not have drilled barrels. Kenner toy blasters, modified Kenner toy blasters or resin recasts of Kenner toy blasters are not acceptable due to the fact they are approximately 10% larger in scale than an accurate style blaster.

Just to give you an update: We're currently working on updatin the CRL for the Swamp Trooper then we'll be addressing the Shadow Scout. Give us a couple weeks.

Keep it up! Looking forward to your progress updates.

Ooh shiny! Looking good.

Awesome! Don't forget to request full detachment access: http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/forum/130-access-requests/

The lights probably need to be on the outside of the lenses so they don't light up your face.