Chef

At basic clearance level they are not required, but they are for Specialist. And we're Spec Ops, the best of the best! So why not? (they're not all that difficult to do). Cog decal. No. It only appeared on the toy and none of the original artwork, so it's not clearable as a detail on the CRL.

Nothing particularly specific on the Commando boots. Try to avoid steel toe caps if you can, unless they are not particularly bulbous. The sole needs to be one solid colour around the edge, although that generally isn't a problem on the black boots, only on the tan ones for the Scouts. Other than that, not much else. If you see one, post up a link and I'll take a look.

Again.. flimsy belt, that's an easy fix... Just use thicker plastic.

yeah, crossed at the front, straight down at the back. try to make them vertical down the back, so sew them in at the same distance width wise as the shoulder bridges on the armour. Your suggestion of adding in some velcro or fastening system here is spot on... Well worth doing. I'd be tempted to sew in a length of black velcro that can be just wrapped round and stuck on itself.

Yah, rivets will do. Sewing would be better because they'll be visible and it will be a neater more secure join.

It might pay to darken it down a bit... but nothing more than a slight bit of weathering I would imagine. The rest of the weathering looks good. I'd probably leave it as is.

I'd drop the belt down so it covers the join between your bund and flight suit, and the crotch/bund join. Re-route the strapping on the rear drop box straps so the buckles are visible, rather than the strap going outermost. Add in the extra stripes on the tank, just because the indents are there, no other reason. Change the bicep webbing for 38mm, rather than 25 which is what I think it is now... Just nudge the bicep armour up a touch, so it abuts the bottoms of the flak vest sleeves. Just watch the closure on the bund at the back, make sure it's velcro'd straight, there's a tiny bit of misalignment right under the tank (Ultra critical I know... but hey I've got to find something!) They are all very minor points in what is otherwise a stunning looking build. Awesome job dude.

To be honest that's not actually really an answer... Acrylic capped ABS will be perfectly shiny afterwards. It's a really simple process. They *should* know this....

I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further

I use push pins to hold the strip in place whilst gluing, and possibly some tape across the join just incase. (if you need vinyl, when I send Avner's gear over, remind me and I'll shove some in the box for you).

For your bund, measure down from your armpit to your navel line. That will give you the correct height for your bund, Don't add in any extra for seam allowance, just use this measurement. When you've seamed it, it will be a little shorter so won't sitright up in your armpits. Hey presto. For the length, measure around your torso, under your bust. Women are a bit tricky (it's a woman's prerogative apparently!) so you'll need to measure your waist too... If they are widely different you may need to taper the bund to suit. remember to add in 2" for your closure and a bit for seam allowance. Pouch wise if you've got your armour and you can put it on. Measure from the bottom of the chest plate to top of the belt. That will give you the height of your pouch. The width of the pouch is about an inch smaller than the height. Depth of the pouch is around 1.75", Hope that helps.

Yeah, cool/cold/hand wash, line dry. If it's not too harsh, then the suede/leather will hold up fine. Eventually it will 'grey' out a bit, but that's not a big problem as it adds to the contrast and the original Bikers were a bit washed out anyway. The bund for yours is a waterproof fabric, so putting it in the wash is a bit moot. Wipe it down with a soapy sponge. Vest, in the wash with everything else.

Still don't like it... Swinging way too far away from the OT considering it's place in the time line. Seems like the only thing they've done the same is the TK's, and they didn't even get that correct.

i just bung mine through the wash... never had a problem, Low temp, gentle detergent.

I think there is enough detail on the WEG sea-trooper reference shots to get this through. It is on my list, but with the current 'real life' situation here, I've been unable to progress anything.

We're kidding dude.... The moulding on that toy is shocking. I can't believe they let stuff like that past QC.

I think you need to add in some badly moulded seam lines to your armour dude!!

Bangin'.... And about time too!

Odd... I can see it on mine. top right.

Good luck... Things that they might pick up on. The chest plate looks as though it's throttling you. I would pull it down at the front. This will then address all the following issues. Back plate sagging down, the gap between your pouches and top of your belt, and your bund poking out from under the chest plate a bit. Always happens... The weight of the back/tank just drags it all down over your shoulders. I whack some velcro on the top edge of the bund and some on the bottom of the inside of the chest plate. Sorts it out a treat. Knock your pouches out a little, so you can see all the ribbing on the cummerbund. And shorten the drop straps to pull the boxes up a bit. They only want to be 2-3 inches below the belt line. Paint your rivets black (or colour them in with a sharpie marker!). Tank Topper needs to be all black, the white and red details are for the regular scout. (sharpie marker again!)

From your other thread in case you haven't seen it... Steve is back from some assignment today/tomorrow and should be looking to progress it from there. It's now just a waiting game with the LMO's.

Would have been difficult to NOT approve it. Now get back to work! hehehehe.

Keep 'em coming.

If he used the stuff in the kit they'll be both. An indent with a decal in it.

Watch this space dude.... I've got some stuff cooking, and just need to put the finishing touches in.