Chef

The gloves will be OK... like you say, they're a bit 'fitted' and the vinyl doesn't 'quite' work, but they have all the details needed so I'm sure they'll pass muster. I guess I'm just incredibly used to looking at leather gloves. Your boots on the other hand.... Top job there Cal. They're turned out real sweet. Now just cut the details in the boot soles! hehehehe.

It's like staring into the deep abyss. The crushing force will make you feel like you're drowning on occasions. But you'll take the bait and it will have you hook line and sinker. But if you do need a lifeline, just make a splash.

Don't worry... Although he's dripping with enthusiasm, he's still a bit wet behind the ears!

The T-21 was basically an old Lewis gun. So what ever length that was! And Nerf guns... er. No.

The background source material suggests that Storm Commandos are trained to use practically any weapon they are likely to come across. The standard weapon is the E-11 but also particular reference is made to the "oppressor flamethrower" and the T-21 Light Repeating Blaster. As mentioned, they are very 'mission specific' and weaponry would largely be dictated by the mission parameters. However their primary functions are stealth and infiltration. So some Mega-repeating, heavy blaster concussion cannon with attached grenade launcher and bayonet would probably just look rubbish.

Hi Mark. I don't think anyone has actually got 'anywhere' with it to be fair. I've made a start on the tanks on the back, but this was done ages ago and essentially hasn't gone anywhere since. Basically it's taken a bit of a back burner at the moment due to a rather massive workload and the requirement to make a stack of new bucks for the chest, helmet, drop boxes and shins. I will get round to finishing it off at some point. Just need to clear the decks a bit first. The process is that it would need to be built and is then submitted to the LMO (legion clearance dude) for 'clearance' and creation of the CRL onto the roster. I will happily work on the CRL (it's my job!). It's a bit of a mission, but hopefully what with the elections out of the way, and a few other hurdles taken care of, the process is being streamlined a little so it may be a less drama. We just need the costume progressing (and yes... I know that probably means I need to get my arse into gear!).

As the title suggests... my new "No-Toe" style cummerbund. This one is a bit big on me, as it's actually for someone else! Based on the new information concerning the scout bunds. I've altered the pattern a little. Hopefully eliminating the dreaded 'Camel Toe' effect. (It's not wonky in real life... I'd like to claim something about a 'big package', but in truth I just can't dress myself).

You could always try a matt snout. That will contrast with the Satin armour. Yes, Nick. You are correct.

Yeah, all the pockets and stuff would need to come off and the suede patches and flaps etc be put back in. What you should do John is to grab yourself a cheap sewing machine of eBay. Look for a real old Singer model, say a 457 or even an old hand crank 99K. They sometimes come up nice and cheap. But with that, you'll be able to do practically anything. You've got the attitude for it, so I say go get yourself one and get cracking. The joy then is you'll be able to make practically anything. Here's something James was able to knock up for me on his 457. The 99k will sew leather up to 10mm thick too. I advise everyone to get themselves a sewing machine.

"Build it and they will come...." You'll see. And when everyone's going... 'Wow, that's cool', you can just smile knowingly.

Morning... Yeah, painting Scout armour works fine. You may have a few running repair issues over time as it get's scratched and will need to be touched up to stop the white showing through. Any automotive style paint should be fine, be it acrylic, 2-pack or cellulose. Just make sure you stick to the same paint all the time otherwise it will react and you'll end up having a nightmare. Go for a satin based colour, and use gloss detailing. As they've mentioned, as you're in the states, it's probably easier and cheaper for you to try and source stuff over there. Speak to Jeff at SC for your armour. He can do it in black, which alleviates some of the need for repairs. The price of stuff over here is high, and the exchange rates and whopping shipping costs make getting stuff into the states a little prohibitive. I can do it... It's just generally not worth your Dollar, when you can source it stateside. Shame... but that's life.

Because we're a little bit more laid back over here (the hard work gets done... what you look like doing it doesn't matter so much!), the vest is still an optional part on the standard CRL. It's needed for Specialist though. You'll find with the Storm Commando that because it's ALL BLACK a lot of the detail gets lost, especially in lower grade photographs. The key with this costume is texture. It's the subtle differences in texture and finish that make this costume come alive. Using a satin or matte finish to the armour, accentuated with gloss highlights and detailing, helps create depth in the armour. Using differing materials in the bund and pouches and suit, say a coarse canvas for your pouches and a lighter twill for the bund helps create a contrast between those items and the armour. If you keep this in mind you'll end up with a subtle yet highly detailed costume.

As I recall, there are a couple of 'doubles' on Mike's decal set. These are for different makes of helmet. You should need the following. 1x Barcode (rear left of main helmet) 1x Fish-hook (Square type, not the rounded one). Left blinder. 1x Nose Crescent (the one that best fits your lid shape) 1x ForeHead Tri-Bar. (again, the one that fits best) 2x Rear Traps. The rest are all surplus to requirement.

Keep 'em coming buddy. Just watch that crease on your left boot. You've got a diagonal crease running from the inner bridge to the outer toe. Can be easily removed by tweaking the outer side of the vinyl in the bridge/back area.

Top job. You got it right there.

Aye, this would be a fresh submission that would need to go before the LMO's. We'll be on hand to beat you to death with a 12" rubber dildo at every turn, if you choose to go down that route. This is a new service reserved for only the hardy who go for new submissions. As for which version.... Well, your references are limited, that's for certain. What's mostly consistent is the more heavily armoured nature. With full greaves, forearms, thighs and cod. Might be worth getting the LMO to poke his nose in here and offer what ever advice/observations/interpretations that they might have, to at least put you on the right track before wasting a shed load of time/money on making bucks, pulling armour etc. The last thing you want is to go through the above process for them to only say it's not what they're after. At which point you're back at square one, but down countless hours and dollars. (edited for bad grammar)

It's difficult to say without having a size reference across them. But the height looks fine, the width could do with reducing. By how much... As I said hard to say without having a rule across them. It's not going to be much, say 1/2" - 3/4" but that should make all the difference. I've done a little graphic. The inner edge of the pouches ideally want to sit where the yellow lines are. This exposes the ribbing on the bund. The outer edges will naturally push outwards under the arms, so it's about reducing that a little, otherwise you look like you're carrying round a pair of John Wayne's saddlebags. Reducing the depth of them can help at this point too. I'd say 1.5" to 1.75" depending on your size. For me (at 6'1" and a 44" chest) I have my pouches at 7" high, 6" wide and 1.75" deep. Also, with the bund, having looked at it... I'd say rather than bringing the belt down, just pull the bund up a bit. The spacing on the pouches from chest to belt is perfect, so now it's just about stopping the bund pulling down underneath it. If you move the belt down, it would disrupt that pouch spacing. I put some poppers (but you can use velcro) on the top of my bund to attach it to the chest plate, to stop it slipping down.

For now, you can probably just move them apart a bit. They do sit under the arms a bit.... As hopefully you can see here... But if they're too wide, which I suspect they are, this won't be helping. Re-position them and see if you can get it a bit better before getting them remade again (who made them by the way??) to save you having to wait. But eventually I'd look at getting them scaled a bit better.

Top job, Couple of pointers... (that I would consider for Specialist) I'd drop the belt down, you have the bund sticking out below it at the moment. It should sit directly on the join between the bund and the suit, so you can't see it. The addition of velcro on the bottom edge of the bund and the inside of the belt helps keep this in the right place. Your pouches need bringing apart. The aim is to be able to see the ribs on the bund in between them. The pouches do look big in my opinion. They should be scaled to the individual, and are generally not 'square'. I'm 6'1" and my pouches are 7" high x 6" wide. Ultimately, your Garrison GML will be the one to 'clear' it. But it's something I would insist on changing should you go for 'Specialist' here on the SpecOps board. Can't really comment on the bund as it's mostly covered over. The ribs might be a bit wide from what I can see, but it's not a clearance issue as long as you can see them. Vest neck looks narrow, difficult to tell from the pictures. The rest of it looks pretty spot on. She wears it well. Good luck with the submission.

To be honest.. If you are reasonably "up for it" and don't mind trying new things. You'll be much better off having a go at making these yourself. Materials wise it's pretty cheap. They just take a while to make.

Well, keep us posted of your progress. You're in the right place and in safe hands.

It is yes... SC is the better of the two armours in my opinion. The KS Stuff has had a few quality control issues of late.

Morning... There aren't many makers of specific Storm Commando armour out there. But any normal scout armour will suffice, it will just need to be painted. There's, Studio Creations (a good serviceable set of armour) and some chap in the UK that make specific 'black' commando armour. Kropserkel, MonCal and MG also do white armour. MonCal being the best one of the bunch. Avoid the MG armour, because whilst it's cheap, it's shape is pretty nasty.

Is that your Ball costume Ash?? I'd say it's difficult to judge the size of the boxes without seeing them in relation to yourself...

You won't need elastic in your trousers Ash... Trouser Blousers. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twists-Trouser-Twists-Military-Trouser-Blouser-twists-olive-green-new-miltec-/111181680412?pt=UK_Collectables_Militaria_LE&hash=item19e2f1cf1c Exactly what is used in the Army.