Woodo007

U could try msging the designer direct. This is a link to their file listing https://cults3d.com/en/users/MCM_Design/3d-models

I have MCM Design's files (Previously known as MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files)), which altho I cannot share, I am happy to print and send u the buckles if u pay postage m8

Well done for finding a solution. I spent ages getting my 1st set of thighs from AS finsihed, only to find they were huge. I printed them myself from Toms files at 95% in the end. One thing I did, and it really helps my walking without the thighs smashing against each other, is I slide a foam knee pad down the outside of each thigh piece. I t just helps to keep them from rubbing constantly

Yeah def the smaller set

Undersuit looks a good fit buddy, and the boots are fine

Sheevs emporium are making DT undersuits I believe

Hey man. Welcome and good luck with the build. If I can give u this advice I would recommend stopping now for a couple of reasons. 1 is that D03d files are far from accurate. U did well to stop with Nikkos files. I got them to see how they were and they are full of errors and inaccuracies. I would suggest u either contact Tom Campbell who has produced amazing files for the deathtrooper build that have been used successfully by lots of DTs OR wait for some files that are currently in the works. A group of DTs are in the process of producing a set of files that will be released for free and are looking to be the most accurate yet. U can look for more details in the main DT build group on Facebook.

Hey. Yes eelco does good work.

He has done sales at black Friday I think and also when his shop anniversary comes up but I can't remember when that is

Both are clearable and as u are making from scratch I guess u can go for personal preference

Hey. Some nice progress. Is impressive seeing someone scratch build so much and am loving your ideas with the flashing grenade and boot tabs. With ref to you shoulder pouch I thought I would give u a heads up as it looks like u are making them square cut? Promotional images had those but the screen used ones used the conventional tapered epic militaria type. Will attach a pic to show. Top pics are promotional photoshoot pics. Bottom are screen grabs from the film. Hope this helps. Nick

Hi werak. Apologies this was never answered. U can find Tom on Facebook. Search Tom Campbell or TDK props

Great work so far dude. Think I am Gona try some weathering on mine using your technique. Your helmet is spot on. I also have Paul's straps and buckles and really pleased with them

Your other option is the dr marten jereds as worn in the film but they are out of production for awhile. They occasionally show up on ebay

Can only echo Andrews words and encourage you to contact Tom Campbell to use his files. U are Gona spend a lot of time and money doing this. May as well get it right and accurate as u can.

I had this very issue, being skinny build and narrow in the chest. I did two things. I first reshaped the back plate to curve more at the top. This helped a bit but I still had quite a gap between the fangs and the chest plate. As I had the files and my printer I did some slicing and reprinting to alter the angle the fangs sat at. Similar to what chris has said already. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey sorry for slow reply. I cut it in half on the brow line. When I get in front of my computer I will try and get u a picture of how I sliced it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey. I have EL panels fitted. I went for green panels behind light green acrylic. Is plenty bright enough and gives a much nicer light dispersal than an LED which ends up with an off centre spot. Yea I did have to bend the connection quite a bit to fit it in but is still working fine. Only issue is in some pictures the light appears blue instead of green. Might get some white panels to sit behind the green acrylic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have printed one at normal scale (shown in pics). One at 96%, which is the one I use. I also did one at 92% for my daughter. I have only been able to print the main body in one piece once. Tried it other times and keep getting failures. I do it now in two parts and glue together Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the lights being off centre bugs u like it does me there is a solution. You can use EL light panels, trimmed to fit the lens. I will try and add a link. All us UK guys use them in our helmets with off centres holes. It means u don’t get an obvious LED spot on your lights. The company we use is called EL wirecraft. They are based in the UK. https://elwirecraft.co.uk/ Ps. I got the idea from the godfather Tom Campbell Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The most accurate files I know of are from Tom Campbell. You can find his build thread in the deathtrooper section. Hopefully here is a link. Tommy's DT Blastech E-11D Blaster build https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=2075939&share_tid=4509&url=https://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/4509-Tommy%27s-DT-Blastech-E-11D-Blaster-build&share_type=t Here’s a pic of my finished one Pm Tom directly if u are interested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey mate. Here is a side by side of an anovos with my printed helmet using Tom Campbell’s. Hopefully u can see by the pics they are very close in scaling and design. Toms files printed at 100% is a bit bigger than the anovos. So essentially if u find someone who is producing helmets using Toms files then it will be very close to anovos accuracy. I think Andrew mcclary at plastic arms dealers has made his helmets using Toms files [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Thomas. Is it the print lines u mean? If so then they need sanding, filling with a spray putty or body filler for deep gaps/grooves then more sanding. Repeat this over and over until lines gone and u have a smooth surface. Or possibly look at using xtc-3d, although I couldn’t eat along with that stuff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey. Good news it fits. If it makes u feel better my anovos is heavy and also so is my 3d printed bucket. Thought the 3d one would be light but after adding fibreglass/paint/ fans/ lights and batteries it’s about the same. Good luck with armour Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol. And here’s me thinking on how to scuff mine up to take the shine off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk