DeathMOS30[501st] Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Thanks for the advice. The only problem with lowering the brow is where the screws are and not being able to cover the holes. If I can heat it up and bend it down that could work. Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 You can also do very little gap fill, but that will be tougher with the red. Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Yeah the helmet is just too far gone to fix at this point so I am purchasing another and starting from scratch. There are just too many issues besides the ears I pulled back one side to much etc. So a costly lesson but thats ok. I know more now on how to put it together. I should have did more reasearch on the helmet. When I built it was too excitied and rushed it so this time did better research and will take my time. Thanks for all the help everyone. Link to comment
Griffin-X[501st] Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 It's okay and you are wiser now as a result. Yep, slow and steady really does win the race! Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted July 29, 2013 Author Share Posted July 29, 2013 Indeed it does I will post new pictures once I get my new helmet and fix it properly this time . Link to comment
Master Tej Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I look forwards to seeing the new pictures! Â - Master Tej - Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 The helmet I am going very slow so I will post pictures once finished and also the boots once painted Okay so a test fit. I already fixed the thighs and body so it wont slip. However as you can see the ammo box dangling the rivets didnt hold so I am going to try and rivet them again if anyone has any suggestions about that please let me know. Also the belt I saw on one site they Velcro the front part to the body any suggestions? http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/stormtrooper/ Â So after these couple of things the next pictures after the helmet will be the official so I can turn in my application. Â The DL-44 finally got finished Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Another look Link to comment
xanthis02[501st] Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 looking good Dorothy your almost there Link to comment
Master Tej Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Looks great! Â - Master Tej - Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 Helmet is finished and so is everything else so hope to post pics soon. Â Â Â Link to comment
mikedwelle94[TX] Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 That helmet looks really good. I think you nailed it this time. Seeing that makes me want to replace my lame EFX even more! Just one thing, I'm 80% sure the ear screws should be painted red. An easy fix. Link to comment
Splattum[TX] Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Not gonna say I hate my FX bucket but I would really like one of these. Stupid lack of money. Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 So the screws should be painted red? I was wondering that myself as there wasn't much info. I must say I do like the gold color. Â Thank you I took my time putting it together and did better research. I am so glad it came out good. I even finished installing the fans last night had to switch the 4AA to two 9v per fan so now it is good to go. I am so excited we have a troop this upcoming Saturday so hopefully I can make my debut. Â You guys helmets look great to me so no worries Link to comment
Master Tej Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Yeah, the helmet looks really nice! And, I'm pretty sure that I remember that the screws need to be red as well. But I'm not entirely sure on that. Â - Master Tej - Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Thank you I am happy with it. Ok well since its not to big of a deal why not. Oh here are some test run pictures. I am having some thigh sliding problems that I am trying to come up with a solution. Link to comment
toddo[TX] Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Getting there for sure. In most of the pics it looks like your chest plate is riding a tad too low in that it is obscuring the top ab buttons. I'm guessing if you shorten the elastic straps between the chest and back just a bit you will solve that problem. Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 4, 2013 Author Share Posted September 4, 2013 Actually the chest plate is unattached so I may have to make it a bit smaller or move down the body part not so sure which I will fiddle with it and see about a solution. Thank you for letting me know I wasnt so sure if it was covering up too much of the buttons. Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 so I thought about it yesterday I think a better option would be to shorten the body by cutting an inch off the body which seems to be a normal thing to do while I was doing research.  I do have a rather important question regarding the back of the thighs and shins.  I velcroed my shins and thighs together using this method, http://www.whitearmo.../Tutorials-legs The only problem is the velcro shows slightly on the back of the shin edge and thigh edge once I put them on only if you look from the side but not looking directly behind and I was wondering how much of an issue is that?  Thigh on the left is my solution and the thigh on the right you can see the black velcro.  Shins    Also on the shins I used this method the only problem I am having is with the left shin as it does not want to close around the boot. http://forum.501stsp...hins-not-shift/  Left you see how it is bunching up the boot  Right no issues  So is it possible to just have the shins sitting on top of the boot instead of around or do you think that would not work.  I just want to make sure when I do the pictures I can get approved. Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 Well, one thing you can do is not run the velcro right up to the lip. This will help to keep it from showing, though you will still get some gapping since the velcro is there. You could also try red velcro, which might not stand out as much (similar to the black velcro on a shadow).  http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-4-Inch-15-Feet-Fastener-Tape/dp/B00098BJC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378503874&sr=8-1&keywords=red+velcro  My personal opinion is I prefer to clam shell with an elastic hook on the inside that helps keep the calm shell closed when worn, but it doesn't work for everyone. Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 I tried your idea and it worked like a charm. I will have to look into the clamshell so it wouldn't have a gap but for now it doesn't show so I can do the pictures and application. Thank you so much Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Quick question I am considering ordering a red canvas belt since I need the ABS material to fix my thighs and shins (they need to be widened) Â I was able to get feedback from my local squad folks so I have some things to fix and need more red abs material. Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Hi Dorothy, didn't see the question in there Link to comment
DeathMOS30[501st] Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Sorry I kind of made it a statement. I was just concerned about the canvas belt and dismantling the red abs I have to use the materials from. I think it should be OK but as a back up do you think ata would sell like extra red abs? Link to comment
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