Jump to content

neoakaj's swampy build


Recommended Posts

And here is starts!

 

I was able to score a great deal on a almost complete scout, just mismatched colors. So I thought.... why not!

 

During this time. I am also upgrading my existing scout to General Weir and making all the correct changes needed to specialist status.

 

I am currently painting the parts I have on hand, and should have a picture later today. I have also completed my boots to about 80% done.

 

This will be a hybrid build from MC and SC parts... and Chef TD

 

Pics to follow in a few

  • Like 2
Link to comment

I love it. Keep the photos coming this way.

Link to comment

I wanted to get some pictures, but I got home to late last night to get good ones. Its really nice today, so once my Fiancee is awake ill get some.... then go to work...

Link to comment

photo21_zps465162a7.jpg

 

 

 

I have a few questions regarding movie standard lvl 2. In the posted CRL on 501st.com it states the use of black straps for the shoulder bridge and the back of the belt. Is this correct? If not I would assume that it would be a matching green. Also, is nylon good for lvl 2, or do I need to find green cotton?

Link to comment

I like the color, and you are making rapid progress on the boots. As for the belt color, that is an excellent question for Chef.

Link to comment

I like the color, and you are making rapid progress on the boots. As for the belt color, that is an excellent question for Chef.

 

Noted.

 

As it sits right now, the paint, boot vinyl, nylon straps, and my cotton for the cummerbund is almost the same color of green, you would have to really look close in person to see any differences! So I guess I lucked out. Now to find a matching grey for the knees

Link to comment

Morning Jason...

 

I did see this, but have been laid up with Man-Flu over the weekend (just as the sun came out too...).

 

In answer to your question... It would appear as though the 501st database CRL is another one that is a little out of date. I'll see to it that it gets amended.

 

In answer to your questions, Green cotton for the shoulder bridges, and green nylon for the main belt.

 

Here is the updated 'Specialist' requirements (Lvl-2) that we've got in the 'pending' section.

 

I. HELMET

1. Modified Rubies helmets may be submitted, but will be subject to extreme scrutiny. They MUST have the following items addressed:

- Any deformation of shape (helmet flare must be corrected).

- Lens opening widened and lens replaced with a darker transparent material.

- Visor hinge bolt covers must be replaced with accurate, flat disc ones, painted grey.

- "Fish hook" symbol replaced with the correct squared emblem.

- Manufacturer's embossed license stamp on the rear of the helmet must be sanded down flush.

- Properly shaped ear holes must be installed.

- Complete replacement of snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted as per the standard scout.

- Complete repainting of the helmet to a shade of green that matches the armor may be required if the vinyl material is discolored.

2. All other fan-made helmets made from ABS, fiberglass or rotocast resin are qualified on an individual basis. Elements that will be examined include, but are not limited to:

- film-accurate or close approximation of visor hinge bolts (flat), painted grey.

- film-accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder"

- film-accurate helmet snout/aerator detail, mounted onto a plate and painted grey (aerator painted grey, black outline as per regular scout)

- film-accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern

-No mesh in ears. Black material to be added inside to create depth, or painted..

-Decals or painted areas must contrast the rest of the helmet.

 

 

 

II. ARMOR

1. Film-accurate or close approximation of complete armor set. made from ABS or fibreglass, painted in GREEN.

- The review committee will examine each costume in its entirety for accuracy, fit and overall aesthetic. Some armor sets are not acceptable as the design does not follow what was seen on screen.

2. Shoulder bridge Straps attaching front and back armor should be green cotton webbing. Nylon webbing is not acceptable-

Side under arm chest/back straps should 50mm (2") black webbing, but for trooping practicality 50mm black elastic will be accepted.

3. Breastplate must include the rectangular contrasting black strip on the lower right breast.

4. Bullet tank on the back plate must have film-accurate tank topper detail painted black with white painted circle and red line. Proper Black pin striping and single rivet to hold the bottom of the tank.

- Tank toppers that are integrated as part of a unified vacuum thermoformed back plate/bullet tank assembly are not acceptable.

- "Rank stripes" are optional but, if included, may only number from one (1) to six (6) stripes on the right side of the bullet tank.

 

5. Bicep armor includes film-accurate "T-bit" detail and they are secured around the arm with a 35mm ( 1 & 3/8") black elastic strap. T-bit circle detail piece must face forward on each arm.

6. Forearm armor secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap.

7. Belt straps used for drop boxes should be made with a 40mm (1 1/2") green cotton webbing. Nylon webbing is not acceptable.

8. Belt canister box must include black detail pieces that approximate those seen in movie screen shots. There is a round knob, the same as on the tank topper on the right side and a greeble, that comes from the Rebel Endor Trooper rank badge on the left.

 

- The TD box must be secured by one single black tie wrap as seen above, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 50mm (2") green nylon belt secured each end of the belt with a single black rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the belt canister box are not acceptable.

9. Grey belt canister tube, with concave end caps secured on each end.

10. Belt must be made from one piece at the front, and not separated with fabric in between the front part where the drop box straps attach, apart from at the back where the TD box sits.

11. Knee armour is to be a Grey colour and have two elastic straps, one passing through the knee armor 25mm (1") wide on the bottom and one 12mm (1/2") riveted to the top sides of the knee armor.

 

12. Holster should be attached with 4 rivets black in color, 1 in each corner, and must not have any rank striping visible

13. Shoulder armour should be secured around bicep with a 35mm ( 1 & 3/8") black elastic, similar to a TK.

 

III. SOFT ARMOR

1. A balaclava worn under the helmet and tucked into the collar of the under suit (no skin should show). Ribbed neckseals, as seen on Stormtroopers, is not acceptable.

2. A black vest with padded, ribbed biceps worn over the under suit, but under the torso armor, sleeves must not be too long/baggy, ideally just finishing just under the shoulder bell. It must have a 50mm (2") rear velcro closure and have a much wider neck opening than the flight suit, as seen on screen grabs for the Biker Scout.

 

3. Detailed cummerbund that includes:

- Cummerbund should be made from a Green heavy cotton (such as duck cloth) fabric, with a rear velcro fastening. The cod section should be made of a Grey heavy cotton fabric.

- Vertically ribbed straight stitch lines up the front of the cummerbund. The spacing's between the stitches will vary slightly between costumers as their girth dictates (approx 1â€). There should be 6 or 7 (troopers choice) evenly-spaced vertical stitch lines giving 5 or 6 raised areas between the pouches. The raised areas of the stitches, referred to as ribs, MUST be completely visible between the pouches.

- Two pouches made to a suitable scale for your size that are made from a Green heavy weight cloth, they should be touching chest armour and slightly overlapping belt.

- Inverted arc stitched on the groin flap (not chevron)

-50mm (2") black elastic thong joining cod to back of bund

4. Detailed gloves with gauntlets that include:

- Black suede or faux suede patched atop the middle finger, index finger and the thumb.

- Four (4) tightly spaced ribs that span across the knuckles.

- Zippers and clips removed from the gauntlet.

 

IV. UNDER SUIT

1. Based on a one piece flight suit or racing suit and including:

- All visible zippers and pockets (except for primary zipper) removed.

- Black real suede riding patch on the inside of the thighs and over the seat of the suit.

- Two thigh straps made from 50mm (2") black elastic that are affixed underneath riding patch, must be fitted to your leg and not loose or drooping.

- Mandarin style (or similar) collar that can be raised up to help conceal the neck and would preferably have an enclosing strap to keep the neck concealed.

-Suit must not be too baggy/loose.

-Must have a real black suede square butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit and resemble those seen on screen, size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted.

 

V. BOOTS

1. Boots made using the "boot tutorial" (available on BSN.net) are the only boots accepted.

2. Film-accurate vertical ribbing cut into the toe and heels of boots.

3. 25mm (1") Velcro closure along the back of the boot risers.

4. Plain black soles

5. Green vinyl should be used to cover boots, slightly textured is acceptable, but not overly textured, and not too glossy in appearance.

6. Boots that constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused.

 

VI. BLASTER

1. Kenner toy blasters, modified Kenner toy blasters or resin recasts of Kenner toy blasters are not acceptable due to the fact they are approximately 10% larger in scale than an accurate blaster should be.

2. Resin or hyperfirm rubber blasters are acceptable.

3. Blasters with triggers are unacceptable as no screen props had them.

 

VII. OPTIONAL

1. The following items are not required for the Specialist standard, but they help push your costume to hyper-accurate levels:

- One piece black motorcycle racing suit (1970's era Esprit motorcycle racing suit).

- Voice amplification system using a mic and amplified speaker-- could be all self contained within the helmet, or the speaker can be situated externally either under the breastplate or in one of the pouches. All mic cables must be hidden.

- Screen-accurate Esprit motorcycle gloves.

- Boots based on screen-accurate Sierra Sneakers hiking boots.

- Barrel hole drilled in blaster muzzle.

- Scope modified to portray working scope.

Link to comment

Scott, I am using Krylon Fusion Satin Hunter Green for paint. The vinyl for the boots is something I am getting local. I dont have any numbers or branding on the pieces left over, BUT, I can swing by the store I get it soon and snoop around for anything that can help.

 

 

Chef, after reviewing your pending CRL information, I still have a couple minor questions. First, is there any requirement on velcro color on the boots and cummerbund? I have a matching green velcro that I am using at the moment, 1 inch for the boots and 2 inch for the bund. Second, for the sake of color matching on the belt, would it be acceptable to use 2 inch cotton for the belt that matches the 1.5 inch for the drop boxes? Third, color of decals for the helmet. I am assuming that the snout and bolts being grey, the decals would follow the standard white scout colors, is this correct? And last, what color visor is required?

 

At the moment, this is the only questions I have, however, as I start really building this, I will be after some more information... I would say it would mostly be about colors, as all the sizes of the straps and elastic are consistent across all scouts.

Link to comment

1: None... it's not specified. But i like the fact that you've gone green. Green or black would be fine.

2: I would say the belt does need to be nylon. There is a distinct nylon/cotton difference with the standard scout, which this CRL is based from for consistency.

3: You would be correct yes. Same as the Standard Scout.

4: It's not specified, but would go with the same as the Standard Scout.

 

The 'movie' requirements are designed to mimic those of the standard Scouts, to provide some visual compliments between the variants.

If you get stuck, refer to those to get some pointers.

Link to comment

1: None... it's not specified. But i like the fact that you've gone green. Green or black would be fine.

2: I would say the belt does need to be nylon. There is a distinct nylon/cotton difference with the standard scout, which this CRL is based from for consistency.

3: You would be correct yes. Same as the Standard Scout.

4: It's not specified, but would go with the same as the Standard Scout.

 

The 'movie' requirements are designed to mimic those of the standard Scouts, to provide some visual compliments between the variants.

If you get stuck, refer to those to get some pointers.

 

Noted and will continue. Should have the rest of everything in the next couple weeks, except the flak vest. That will be a month out

 

Yea I lucked out on the green velcro for the boots and the bund. Its really close in color!

Link to comment

Many thanks Jason. I'll try and look into the Krylon paint. I wish these paint companies offered the same colors everywhere and not limited to certain countries. I'm already have trouble getting hold of claret wine for my son's galactic marine build.

 

Anyway mate, I appreciate the help! :thumbsup: Can't wait to see more pictures.

 

Cheers,

Scott.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Adding pictures as I updated my photobucket

 

photo21_zps465162a7.jpg

 

And a box of goodies showed up today!

 

I have everything for the most part to finish this now. Except 2 parts.... I forgot drop boxes and I gave the shoulders to my fiancee. So I am in need of them now.

 

 

 

 

Now here is a strange question. I have the riding patches on my flight suit but I do not have my vest done yet, will that hold up basic approval?

Link to comment

The current CRL does not call for the vest, but the updated CRL does require it. Unless you are going for the "game version". That one does not require a vest. A request has already been made to the Legion for an update to the CRL. So you might want to complete your vest. Timing...and your GML at this point.

 

http://www.501stspec...s/Swamptrooper/

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.