Ricky's Mudtrooper Build aka Mad Mud Mods (Photo Heavy)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

Dear Friends:

Having completed my newest costume, please allow me to share my photo documentation of how I attempted to breath life to the Mudtrooper character.

It was a pretty long journey from deciding to pursue the next costume, to joining the wonderful Facebok group of Mud builders, to acquiring all the required (and mostly accurate) parts, to solving problems, to committing mistakes, to finally completing it.

Last October 2018, I was on a business trip to Manila.   The decision to jump became easier -- I have an easier access to Jim Tripon's wonderful kit.

Ever the accommodating vendor, Jim's had the BBB delivered to my hotel room and all I had to do was bring it back to the US on my return.

The rest was history.

I will try to load progress and complete this build thread as quickly as I can.

This is by no means the definitive guide to how the Mud should be built.  It's how I built mine and it worked for my purpose.

If any of you find this experience useful, feel free to follow my thread for your own build.

Good luck, see you all in the muds!

 

UPDATE (as of 01.26.19):  This character is now official.  501st Legion CRL is live!

HUGE DISCLAIMER (as of 01.08.19):  This build was based on the currently proposed CRL.  There's no approved CRL yet for this costume.  Proceed at your own risk.

 

QUICK BUILD LINKS:

1. BBB

• Parts Check
• Bonus - Mud Bag

2. GOGGLES

• Main Goggles
• Strapping
• Completed Goggles

3. RESPIRATOR

• Prep and Painting
• Hose Rigging
• Strapping and Screens
• Completed Respirator

4. BUCKET

• Exterior
• Tactical Unit / Torch
• Interior
• Rigging
• Completed Bucket

5. ARMS AND SHOULDER BELLS

• Prep, Painting, Rigging
• Completed Arms & Shoulder Bells

6. BOOTS / SHINS

• Leather
• Shin Armor
• Completed Shins
• Completed Shins on Boots

7. BELT

• Top
• Bottom
• Completed Belts
• Improving the Lower Belt (August 2019)

8. BODY ARMOR

• Chest
• Back
• Rigging A
• Rigging B
• Completed Body Armor

9. PLASH PALATKA

• Original Plash
• Dyeing
• RIgging the Plash to the Armor
• Completed Plash Palatka

10.  SOFT GOODS

• Tunic & Pants
• Other Soft Goods - Gloves, Scarf, Shirt
• Completed Soft Goods

11. AMMO POUCHES

• MP40
• Cloth Bandoleer
• Completed Pouches

12. BLASTERS: 

• E-11B
• E-10 Build
• Completed E-10

13. PREPARING FOR THE SUBMISSION OF APPLICATION

14. END OF THE BUILD JOURNEY

 

Below is  a list of my costume parts and stuff, with some having a link to where I sourced them.  

Please feel free to source yours from where you think they're more accurate, convenient, and cost-efficient.  

Confirmed found parts used in the movie are indicated by "*"

Thanks.

PARTS LIST:

HARDWARE:

Bucket / Armor / Goggles / Respirator / Hoses - Jimmiroquai

Bucket Tactical Unit - Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper Build

Bucket Lining - bike/skates helmet

Respirator Metal Parts / Greeblies* - from a vintage Yugoslavian small backpack

Goggle Lens - Hobart 770580 Face Shield Replacement Lens

Goggle Rubber Trim  - 1/8in rubber sheet

Goggle Webbing* - Imperial Trader Co.

Goggle Chin Cup - Rawling's Chin Cup

Goggle Side Buckle - 1" cinch lock webbing buckles

Respirator Mesh* - Isopon Repair Aluminium

Respirator Tusk Filter Tip* - Hex socket head cap screws

Belt Boxes (R1 Type) - PhiloProps

Belt  - Wampa Wear

Belt Buckle - Tandy Leather blank buckle

Code Disks - Elvistrooper Standard/High Detail Disks (no notch)

Back Armor Foam - 6mm Darice Foamies

Bucket Torch - 9-LED mini aluminum flashlight

 

SOFT GOODS:

Tunic - Jimmiroquai

Pants - Jimmiroquai

Parka* - Russian Plash Palatka

Boots - vintage Russian Officer military boots

Gloves* - Highlander Special Ops Gloves

Scarf - GI wool scarf

Undershirt* (not required by the CRL) - British Army surplus shirt

 

ACCESSORIES:

Ammo Pouch* - MP40 Ammo Pouch

Cloth Bandoleer* - Vietnam-era 5.56mm 4-pouch cloth bandoleer

 

BLASTERS:

E-10 Kit - Inland Empire Armory

E-10 Torch* - Streamlight 85001 Scorpion

E-10 Torch Mount* - Fenix Gun Mount

E-11B Base - Hyeprfirm E-11

E-11B Torch - M300 replica

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RickyBoyBlue
DZ/IC/ID//IG/IN/RP/TA/TB/TI/TK/TR 74259
 

Location: San Francisco Bay Area

501st ID / TKID: 74259

Garrison / Outpost: Golden Gate Garrison

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THESE BE WHAT'S INSIDE THE BBB...

I've owned about two kits from Jim Tripon (FOTI and Praetorian Guard).  

I find his flexible fiberglass kits to be quite an easy and  forgiving material to build costumes from.  

Pulling the trigger for the Mud last September of 2018 was easy.  It helped that I was on a biz trip in Manila, so I saved a whole lot in shipping charges.  

This is a very nice kit and I'm satisfied with Jim's Mudtrooper kit.

        

  

            

      

      

    

 

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

TRANSPORTING TRIPON'S

PS.  During my Manila trip, I had a wonderful get-together with some members and friends from the Philippine Garrison.

I was also able to acquire their new merch, an ultra-huge helmet bag.

It was so big, it became my main container to pack the Mudtrooper kit in.  I was confident that my kit would be safe inside the big box because it's packed inside this foam-walled beast of a bag.

It. Was. Epic! ?

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

OOGLING THROUGH THE GOGGLES

Every costume build requires from you a certain level of confidence.

A very good confidence-builder for me was deciding to start work on the goggles.

This was an easy part to build and finishing it makes you experience a quick rush of "mission accomplished" feeling knowing that you've completed a simple but crucial part of the costume.

Note that total build time for the goggle for me was actually almost four months.  Even after finishing it on the first go, one can never be satisfied with how a part turns out.

You'd always find areas to improve on...

 

With base coat paint applied to the goggle (Oct 2018)

Metallic paint applied, a bit of sandpaper scuffing for some weathering details.  I set the goggle on the rubber sheet to visualize the trim around the goggle. (NOV 2018)

Rough cut, testing how the rubber would contour to the goggle.  I'd eventually use CA glue to stick the rubber to the goggle.  Bonded well.  Never experienced these two parts separating. (NOV 2018)

Another shot of the three parts: goggle, rubber trim, and the lens.

In most of the costumes I built, I got accustomed to using the Hobart replacement lenses.  Cheap, very flexible, nice to see through, eyes won't be seen. (NOV 2018)

With the rubber trim permanently applied on the goggle (NOV 2018)

 

Lens permanently applied (NOV 2018)

Note the tensioner, sans required detail. (NOV 2018)

Nose tensioner with the brass-look detail.  Some peeps use different methods like Rub n' Buff.  I only used one of those metallic markers. (NOV 2018)

To achieve the angles on the lenses (as inspired by aviator lenses), I only used the tried-and–tested score and bend method.  After aligning the lens on the goggle opening, I just scored the points with a box cutter, then bent them to the desired angle.  Voila!  No voodoo here, folks. (NOV 2018)

Full shot of the lens, against natural sunlight (NOV 2018)

Here's how the goggle rig looks like from behind.  CA glue was used to bond the lens to the rubber trim. (NOV 2018)

This was how my goggles looked like when first completed. (NOV 2018)  Until I was advised by Raider that there's something not quite right...

 

D'oh!  how'd I miss that????

Quick fix, snip-snip.  Done! (JAN 2019)

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

GOGGLE'S BUCKLES, ETC...

Completing the goggle rig is the kinda elaborate strap that it has.  Primarily consists of 5 types of buckles and two different sizes of straps.

I essentially used the items that came with Jim's kit:

    

 

Then for the side buckles, I initially got the ones available from Imperial Trading Co.

 

Assembling them all together, this was how it ended looking like (NOV 2018):

In one of my many productive discussions with Darren,  he noticed the sizes of my straps.  On my further review of the proposed CRL, it was confirmed that my wider strap is not wide enough.  (JAN 2019)

ORIGINAL STRAP:

REPLACEMENT STRAP:

With this replacement, the flow from the smaller strap to the wider is more obvious.

 

While we await confirmation of what type of side buckle was more accurate or appears closer to the screen-used ones, Darren suggested a 25mm cinch lock buckle that hugs the strap better.  I ditched the original buckles from Imperial Trader Co and used the smaller cinch.  I initially installed it through the normal pass-through way. 

 

I still wasn't happy with it, the serrated look is not too obvious when you don't move the cinch or you don't pull back the straps.  So we took a second look at the reference photos, and we determined that the strap was not passed-through at all.  The straps were sewn from both sides of the cinch. (JAN 2019)

With this correction, the serrated portion is now very apparent.

Until the build group decides on which best side buckle is ideal, my goggle straps are done.

[ukswrath[TX]]

Alright Ricky looking good brother

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

BREATHING LIFE INTO THE RESPIRATOR... (Part 1: Prep & Painting)

Another easy build that helped me get a leg up with this character.

This also turned-out  to be one of the more fun pieces to build.  Based on extensive sharing of research, the respirator is the recipient of interesting and relatively inexpensive found parts and stuff.

Jim's respirator, all in one piece (SEP 2018).

 

ummm... yeah.  

 

Time for dremel, sanding, and blasting of some primer paint. For my first green coats, I had some Rust-oleum camo green cans lying around the house, so I used those for my first top coats.  Regular black acrylic paint on the mouth part.  (OCT 2018).

 

Next stage was applying additional coats and the Krylon Olive Green coat (NOV 2018)

 

The Mud was the very first costume build that I need to weather. I first tried weathering the respirator by using 3 different brush tips.

Applying 3 acrylic paint colors, layered on each other -- burnt umber, nutmeg, and pewter gray.  

These are the only 3 colors I used for weathering throughout this project.

 

 By mid November, I would have attained a good level of confidence that I can weather the weathering part of this costume.

This was the final paint look of the respirator body.

Now, it was ready for rigging...

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

BREATHING LIFE INTO THE RESPIRATOR... (Part 2 - Hose Rigging)

I started with figuring out how to attach the hoses to the mouth.  The required hose is a bit on the heavy side, so I was thinking the respirator should be able to hold up to the weight of the hoses, especially when the costume in on the respirator-on configuration.

Options I considered for hose rigging:

1. Make a hole - quick and simple solution. drill a huge hole, insert hoses during troops.  Need to rig the hoses though on the end that it stays in place.

2. Magnets -- even if I use rare earth magnets, may not be strong enough to hold the hoses.  Plus, would have to rig the hose-side.  Too much work.

 

I arrived with the solution of using 1/2'" diameter PVC pipes.  Easy to build, respirators looks clean sans hose, easy on-off affair during troops. (NOV 2018)

  

Quick try with the hose.  Perfect fit!

  

PVC pipe rig behind the mask:

Here's the completed pipe rig for the hoses (NOV 2018):

  

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

BREATHING LIFE INTO THE RESPIRATOR... (Part 3: Strapping & Screens)

The final step for competing the respirator was installing the Yugo backpack buckles, webbing, and plugging the holes with the screen.

  

For the first iteration of my respirator, I used this screen I bought from amazon.  I just pressed it against the respirator and applied a generous goop of black E6000 around it.  Overnight, the ring of E6 around it hardened and the screen stayed.

Jim's kit does not include the notches where other respirators have (the one's where you slot-in the webbing through the buckles).  In order to attach the buckle to the respirator, here's what i did:

1. Drilled a hole on the respirator, burned a hole on the webbing -- for the rivet.

2. Bonded the webbing on the respirator via CA glue

3. Reinforced the side of the webbing with my fave - black E6000

4. Installed the rivets

These webbing ain't going nowhere!

    

 

With the webbings, buckles, screen installed (NOV 2018)

    

 

Accurate screen mesh used in the movie arrived, so a respirator update was in the offing. (DEC 2018)

 

Note the subtle difference between the two screen meshes I used (top: Isopon, bottom: Wireform).  In my opinon, if you don't have access to Isopon, Wireform is already a very good alternative for basic approval.  In fact, they both sport the rounded diamond-shape pattern required by the level 2 on the proposed CRL.  I'd argue that this would pass muster for level 2.

 

Another upgrade was the installation of a car-door side trimming on the edge of the respirator, for level 2 of the proposed CRL.

[NOTE: The edge trim is NO LONGER A CRL REQUIREMENT.  I have since removed the trim post-CRL release.]

    

 

The final upgrade was losing Jim's tusk tips and replacing them with the more accurate M4 x 16mm hex socket head cap screws.  (JAN 2019)

1. Dremel the original tip til it’s gone.

2. Sand the area flat.

3. Drill a hole for the hex screw.

4. Install the hex screw and nut.

    

 The cherry on top was cutting a portion of my foamies, to cover / black-out the tusks  (JAN 2019).

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

15 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Alright Ricky looking good brother

Thank you very much, my friend.

It was actually you who instilled in me the value of passing on knowledge and sharing build experiences so other folks who thinks they can benefit from it, use it.

For me, you're also one of the gold standards in build threads.  I'm just following in your footsteps and I hope I give justice to your examples. 

Thanks for the inspiration, Tony! ?

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED GOGGLES (as of JAN 2019)

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED RESPIRATOR (as of JAN 2019)

 

[superbee[TX]]

Looking great Rick !!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ensi[TX]]

Thanks for doing this build thread! Looking good  

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

NOT GONNA BUCK IT, THIS IS MY BUCKET! (Part 1: Exterior)

This is a pretty straightforward part of the build.  Mostly prepping, a good amount of spray painting, a whole lot of weathering! (NOV 2019)

Weathering colors were same acrylic paint I used for the respirator.  Technique was combination use of two size of brushes and 3 types of sponges.

 

CRITICAL MAD MUD MOD FOR JIM'S BUCKET:

Two things we need to remember about the proposed CRL.  Bucket requirement  states that "A rubber trim, or the illusion of a rubber trim covers the edge of the helmet rim with the join made at the rear center of the helmet."

Jim's bucket already has an artificial trim.  In order to achieve the rubber trim look, I just painted the edge with satin black. (NOV 2019)

To achieve the "join at the rear center," I filed the center of the trim so it is level with the body of the bucket.  Which provides a "separation between the black trim" thus, the "join at the rear center."  (NOV 2019)

 

A screw was inserted to the side holes.  This will hold my chin strap.  

(NOV 2019)

And to cover the screw hole, the application of notch-less code disks from Elvistrooper -- my go-to supplier of awesome aluminum greeblies. 

(NOV 2019)

Weathering the disks with dried mud by applying some acrylic paint. (NOV 2019)

 

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

NOT GONNA BUCK IT, THIS IS MY BUCKET! (Part 2: The TU and The Torch)

While I love the work of Jim's, I ordered Mr. Paul's TU piece.  Sorry Jim.  ? (NOV 2019)

 

For the TU, I lived dangerously.  While it's suppose to be installed screwed from the inside of the bucket, I just placed my trust on my black E6000.  Let it cured overnight.  It's still there, and unmoving!  I also installed the black bungee cord.   (NOV 2019) 

 

I also painted the TU green and applied the uniform weathering as the bucket's.  Until Lewis White commented on how nicely painted the bucket is (thanks Lewis!) but how the TU should be off grey/black.   Ugh (Thanks Lewis!)! ?  (DEC 2019)

-------------------------------------------

I wanted the "torch-on-TU" look for my bucket.  I initially went for my replica Surefire M300 flashlight, which was initially inferred as the torch used for the bucket. (NOV 2019)

   

After the torch was dulled with a clear matte spray and eventually weathered, I continued my practice of living dangerously with my builds.  I relied on my CA Glue / E6000 tandem to affix the flashlight to the TU. (NOV 2019)

 

Sometime beginning of the last month of the year, our resident Mud Guru struck another discovery.  The torch used was not the more expensive M300 (or its replicas), but a lowly cheap, sometimes free-from-your-local-hardware store 9-LED flashlight!

Attaching to the TU was the same as the M300 replica -- CA glue/E6000 tandem.  And this was a tad more secured since the torch is significantly lighter than the first torch. (DEC 2019)

 

Replica Surefure M300 vs. the cheap 9-LED flashlight:

 

 

And in conforming to Lewis White's advise that that TU is black, here's the shift from my original colors to what's prescribed in the proposed CRL, and eventually weathered.

Note the two zip ties wrapped around the torch.  It was confirmed by Lewis that holes were drilled on the original buckets so the zip ties can be passed through the holes to eventually secure the torch in its place.  

My zip ties are NON-FUNCTIONAL.  They're there for aesthetic purposes only.  (DEC 2019)

 

This portion is done!

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

NOT GONNA BUCK IT, THIS IS MY BUCKET! (Part 3: Interior)

The prospect of using a helmet liner, especially something as common as a skates/bike helmet liner, intrigued me.   Bonus too that this was how (apparently) the screen-used buckets were done.

In most of my costume builds, I always go traditional -- star-shaped foam.  

For the Mud, I just scoured ebay and found an $11 helmet.  

Gutted the exterior of the helmet, and shaved excess styro on the liner to fit my bucket.

Installed velcro in front and from top to bottom rear center, I have a snug-fitting bucket.  Hey, it works! (NOV 2019)

 

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

NOT GONNA BUCK IT, THIS IS MY BUCKET! (Part 4: Rigging & Strapping)

This is the part where I went free-wheeling.  I did not research much which method was more accurate or whatnot.  I just went through with what I think would work...

 

CHIN STRAP:

Both ends of the chin strap webbing were attached to the side screws.  I used a release buckle in case I'd need loosen the chin strap for whatever reason.  Besides, the buckle looked good in it.  (NOV 2019)

 

RESPIRATOR RIGGING:

I really think that attaching the respirator buckle to the bucket must be done properly in order to have the right look when the respirator is worn.

I remember reading Jim installed magnets to the inside of the bucket so that the buckle has something to hold on to.  I tried that method. (NOV 2019)

 

For the few instances of trying out the respirator-on-bucket configuration, it was frustrating for me that the buckle ain't holding properly on the magnet, will move, or might ride lower, especially when the fairly heavy hoses are attached.  

I decided to use a simple and more stable method -- D-rings.  I installed D-rings secured by a strip of nylon webbing, CA-glued to the bucket.  The yugo buckle just simply clips to the D-ring.  More secured, more permanent.  I think problem solved.  (JAN 2019)

 

RESPIRATOR-TO-BUCKET RIGGING -- A MAD MUD MOD:

This  is a mod that I shared on the FB build group so I'll just repost it...

I think the tactical unit is more than just a design element.  Its practical use is keeping the google strap from riding up and slipping off (NOTE: as stated in the proposed CRL - "The lower end of the telemetry unit sits out from the helmet to allow the goggle elastic to feed underneath.") It works!

Though it irritated me that the rest of the strap rides up and down and sometimes easily slides off the bucket.  This, no matter how tightly wrapped the elastic is around the bucket.  Had to find a solution...

Neodymium magnets!

I installed a good number of bar and round magnets glued on strategic points of the goggle strap.  Matching magnets were placed inside the bucket.  While this won't keep the goggle from falling off your bucket when you run and jump into (the) trenches, it will at least make your strap straight or easy to align around your bucket  (DEC 2019)

 

This part's rigged!

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED BUCKET (as of JAN 2019)

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

ARMS & SHOULDERS for the ARMED SOLDIERS

This is probably the easier and the most straightforward part of the this costume's build.

It's mostly sanding, prepping, base coat, a good blast of olive green paint, then weathering for the shoulder bells.

More work doing the markings on the right arm (same goes with the Medic variant).  Otherwise, nothing that takes too much time from any builder.

 

(NOV 2018)

I made the mistake of applying an extra set of lines to the right arm.  It was an easy fix.

 

For JIm's kit, I just tried and measured the bicep armor on me, then applied E6000 to the halves, let it cure overnight.  Arms' tight!

Rigging is just a usual use of snap plates (on the armor) and snaps on elastics.

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED ARMS AND SHOULDER BELLS (as of JAN 2019)

[Ensi[TX]]

Oh man, coming from 2 super shiny TK's, all these dirty parts makes my cover strips tingle!

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

SHINS AND SHINIES (Part 1: The Leather)

The boots requirement is a pretty straightforward one.  I bought used Russian Officer's Boots via ebay.  While it's real leather, I don't think I'm using this for any other costumes, so this will be exclusive to the Mud.    Having decided  that, I can go full-on weathering details with the pair, and I can go crazy with it.  I just used acrylic paint, layers, and that's it. 

Am still not happy with the final look, but the idea is this part of the costume should be the dirtiest part of the costume.  Don't be stingy with your "mud!" (NOV2018)

 

Since I have no qualms about messing this boots up, I installed snaps-on-webbing at the back via CA glue).  This attaches to the straps of the shin armor.  

When I test-drove the  costume and took pictures, my pair of shin straps were not on the same level, and the other one's way way-off, it was so irritating.  I installed the snaps to make sure they stay relatively the same height.  No matter the type of leg movements the parts might experience. (DEC 2018)

Will probably install rivets at some point to reinforce the adhesion of the webbing to the leather.

This is the matching snap on the strap:

 

I know this boots are pretty much done for the purposes of approval application.  But I know I'd revisit this at some point and weather it more properly, evenly, realistically. (DEC 2018)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

SHINS AND SHINIES (Part 2: Shin Armor)

PREP & PAINTING:

Shin armor has a good number of work that needs to be done.  Jim's would have to undergo a lil bit of mod to conform to the look of the actual costume part.

As with any other parts of my costume, prepping and painting were the first order of business, then the time-consuming but all-too rewarding process of weathering.  (NOV 2018)

The straps are made of rubber, so a good blast of Plasti-Dip was required in order for the spray paint to adhere to the surface.

I did not cover the material 100% with Plasti-Dip so that over time, surface sprayed with paint will eventually chip-off giving it more that worn, weathered look. (NOV 2018) 

 

RIGGING:

The other end of the strap (the outer part) is attached to the shin permanently.  A good portion of the strap was CA-glued to the armor,  I strengthened it with a strip of webbing, CA-glued over it as well.

The other end (the inner part) is secured with snaps.  This makes putting it on and off the boots very very easy. (DEC 2018)

 

I did not want the straps to pass-through the buckle.  It angles upward/outward.  I want the buckle to appear flat on the strip.

I applied a generous amount of CA-glue to the buckle and webbing.  This will be wrapped around the straps, making the buckles lie flat on the straps.  (DEC 2018)

For good measure, I also lined the edges with E6000.

Future mod to this would have to include a small screw.  Just to make sure the adhesion of the buckle is secured.

 

JIM'S GREAVES -- A MAD MUD MOD:

This  is a mod that I shared on the FB build group so I'll just repost it...

For those who own Jim’s awesome mudtrooper kit, dropping the T-shaped knee plate to rest on the knuckles is a very easy fix.

Cut the connection points between the knee plate and the main body. I easily snapped em with a small pair of metal sheet snipper.

Reconnected it first with CA Glue, then a good generous glob of E6000 in and around the contact points. Secured and stenghtened both parts too with webbing at the back.

Works well and minimizes knee plate from hitting the knees! (DEC 2018)

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REFERENCE PHOTO

 

PS: a member of the nice community of Mud builders, one of the vendors, pointed out that there's still inaccuracies in my shin armor.   It's a nice catch that should benefit all vendors so that their future kits are corrected and on spec.  But for my purpose, this should be ok and a minor detail unnoticed within about 4-5 feet won’t deter me from proceeding with other parts of the project.

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED SHINS (as of JAN 2019)