Ricky's Mudtrooper Build aka Mad Mud Mods (Photo Heavy)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED SHINS ON BOOTS (as of JAN 2019)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

BELT (Part 1: Top Belt)

So far, the best belts I've seen and purchased are those from Wampa Wear -- leather parts and the buckle.  Top-notch.

I recently purchased one from Anovos, a tad pricier, but quality's impressive too.

For the purpose of this costume, I went with Wampa Wear for the leather, it features the two grooves required by lvl2 of the proposed CRL as well.  Since this will be messed up, I went with the cheap blank buckles from Tandy Leather, with an Elvistrooper code disk in the middle. (NOV 2019)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

BELT (Part 2: Lower Belt)

Jim provides all the lower belt parts -- from the webbing to the 4-size boxes.

This is one of the easier part of the build, in fact, this can be done towards the end of the build.

It's all a matter of prepping, painting, weathering.  Then installing the boxes on to the webbing.

(OCT 2018)

At one point, Jafo/Darren spotted a mistake in my lower belt configuration.  The four middle boxes should be MEDIUM-SMALL-SMALL-MEDIUM.

I had it SMALL-SMALL-MEDIUM-MEDIUM.

Method of installing the boxes to my belt was through pop rivets.  The correct M-S-S-M order for the center 4-boxes applied. (NOV 2018)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED BELTS (as of JAN 2019)

 

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CHEST THUMPING AND BACK PATTING (Part 1: Chest Armor)

Same start as my other armor parts.  Base paint, first coats of Camo greens, then a couple final layers of my Krylon Olive Greens... (NOV 2018)

First pass at weathering, a whole lot of dabbing of watered-down black acrylic, combination sponges and tissue paper.

 

Same 3-4 acrylic colors were applied, layered, using combination brushes, tissue paper, sponges.

I blasted the entire armor (and other weathered pieces) with a Krylon matte clear spray paint.  This helps seal the acrylic paint onto the surface of the armor.  It also loses the bit of shin that is present on the Kyrlon Olive Green.

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

CHEST THUMPING AND BACK PATTING (Part 2: Back Armor)

Repeat --  Base paint, first coats of Camo greens, then a couple final layers of my Krylon Olive Greens...

(NOV 2018)

 

Many a sleepless nights when I apply layers of acrylic paints to achieve a level of weathering that satisfied me...

In my honest opinion, I don't think I needed this much weathering on the back armor.  1, this won't be seen on troops anyway on the account of the plash hanging on the back, and 2, I don't intend to do a "Solo-version" type of trooping/cosplaying.

Either way, I think doing this to the back armor just shows the level of reverence and respect to the spirit of the character.

So there.

 

HOSE CONNECTORS:

Note how I utilized the same PVC pipe set-up for the respirator to the back of the armor.

I didn't bother to study the Solo pictures and how the hose posts seem to be angled.  I was tad practical and pragmatic on this part.  As it is, the hoses attach fine and they stay in place.

 

BACK FOAM:

Similar to the Shoretrooper, the back armor features a black foam that lines and extends out of the arm opening.

I just bought a 6mm Daris Foamies from amazon, outlined arm opening on it, with about 1.5" at the widest, cut, and CA-glued the foam to the interior of the back armor.

 

RESPIRATOR STRAP LOOP:

Raider and Jafo both reminded me to make sure I don't miss out on this small detail on the back armor.  There is a webbing at the top of the back armor, in between the respirator hose connectors.  This is a loop where the strap of the respirator goes through.  Keeps it in place.

This may be done in various ways -- inserting the ends of the loop inside the back armor by cutting a slot on the surface, use a snap system to attach the end of the loop to the armor.  Mine's the easier method of adhering the ends of the loop on the armor using E6000.

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

CHEST THUMPING AND BACK PATTING (Part 3A: Rigging)

Let me tell you.  I  have never rigged and strapped and applied magnets on any other costume as I did with my Muddy! ?

 

SIDE ARMOR CONNECTION:

The way I normally connect the front and back armors, on the side,  for my other costumes (TK, TI, IG) was to use an elastic with snaps on both ends. 

Jim's front and back armors have a natural and perfect overlap on the sides, with the back overlapping the front.  Seeing that I don't have to cut the sides (I try to minimize drilling and dremeling fiberglass armors as much as I can), I allowed this natural  and clean overlap to be my way of conforming to the proposed CRL's "meet at the sides" requirement for the front and back armors.

In order for the front and back to close and align properly every time I put it on, I decided for the first time, to use magnets.  I identified 3 points on each side to E6000 the rare magnets on.  Once cured on both sides, locking them in is a nice one click sound all the time!

 

SHOULDER CONNECTION:

Connecting both armors are pretty straightforward.  Measured the correct distance between the two, finding the perfect gap as both parts sit on my shoulders.  

Installed snap plates and CA-glued/E6000'd them on the armor.  

Made elastics with both snaps on both ends.  Also sewn a button in the middle to "T-connect" with the shoulder bell elastic.  Done!

 

SHOULDER BRIDGE TO SHOULDER BELL:

A "T-connection" is made by installing a snap elastic that connects the shoulder bell to the shoulder bridge/elastic.

 

SHOULDER BELL / ARM STRAPPING:

This part's a no-brainer.  Not too much adjustment is required on Jim's shoulder bells and bicep parts.

After painting, it's all a matter of measuring how far/close the pieces should be from each other.

It's all a matter of creating snap plates, installing snaps on elastics, sewing the button on the elastic to connect the bell to the shoulder bridge elastic.  Boom!

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

CHEST THUMPING AND BACK PATTING (Part 3B: Rigging)

 

SHOULDER STRAP/BUCKLE CONNECTION (FRONT):

Jim's kit has nice straps that already have built-in webbing connected at the end.

I used the webbing to connect to the underside buckle, with guess what... CA glue.

Then installed a big rare earth magnet at the backside of the buckle...

 

...to match the magnet behind the chest armor.

 

Shoulder strap buckle and chest armor, connect!

 

SHOULDER STRAP/BUCKLE CONNECTION (BACK):

This is a pretty straightforward part.  The shoulder strap is glued permanently to the back armor.

I just snipped the rubber shoulder strap to the correct length, slather the underside with CA-glue and affixed it on and within the "shoulder slot" on the back armor.

Oooh.. I see a gap there.  A little application of E6000 will do wonders in strengthening that part some more.

 

A MAD MUD MOD -- COLLAR TIPS... KEEPING IT FROM SLIDING OUT:

Jim's armor design has the collar connected to the back armor.  And when the front and back armors are aligned properly, the tips of the collar is inserted in their respective holes/channel on the front armor.

In theory, they should stay in place.  In my case, they don't.  When I put on the armor, they just keep sliding out.  No matter how I angle the armors to align better together.  I may be too short for the design of the collar tip.

I don't know what went through me, I initially thought installing a row of small rare earth magnets might do the trick.  Nope. 

 

I went to what I knew that works.  A webbing-velcro-snaps combo.

I prepped a webbing that has a snap in the end, and velcro in the middle, and the naked webbing is CA-glued to the bottom of the collar.

When the tip of the webbing is pulled down, the collar tips are guided snugly to the holes/channels.  Then the velcros and the snaps are attached to their corresponding match on the backside of the front armor. 

It's not full-proof.  There's still movement of the collar, but it lessened the wild popping-out of the collar tips as seen in the first test-drive photos.

Until I can determine a better method.  This should work for now.  

Some Jimmiroquai owners who encounters this might have a different approach, would love to hear from you...

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED BODY ARMOR (as of JAN 2019)

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

MAKING A SPLASH WITH THE PLASH! The Plash Palatka

 One of the reasons the Muddy grew on me as a character is its "cape," the parka.

Somehow no matter how grungy the look of the character is, the parka gives the costume a regal look.

The kicker cool factor for me was learning that the parka used in the movie is actually a Russian rain cape (among other things).  A very interesting piece of military article.

I bought mine from ebay and amazon.  I wanted to purchase from different vendors because I heard that vendors don't necessarily ship the type with the leather ring grommet.  Needed a back-up just in case.  The one from amazon arrived, the one from ebay never (vendor eventually reached out to me that the item was sent back to them for unknown reasons).

It was my luck that what I got was the one with the lvl2 required leather ring grommet.  Lucky me!!! (OCT 2018)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

NOT DYING TO DYE  (Part 2: aka turning the waterproof green Plash to black)

In researching and learning from experiences of the wonderful folks at the Mudtrooper Builders group, I'm astounded by the different ways folks try to dye the green Plash into black.  Apparently not an easy feat because these babies are waterproof and the dye don't easily adhere to the cloth.

I've never dyed anything in my life before, I see folks soaking their Plashes on a pail filled with black dye, stirring like witches and warlocks hoping it turns into a raven-colored beast.  Dreaded this part! (DEC 2018)

It might be a Judge Pescadero from the FB Group Page whose method it was that I followed (I thank you kind soul for sharing your awesome step by step).  Essentially it's a simple 3-step process:

1. Normal wash at 40° (I poured fabric conditioner to soften the material)
2. Run another cycle at 95°, apply decolorizer (I used two boxes)
3. Run another cycle, apply black color dye (though I actually doubled the dye amount and added salt as per dye instructions.

With this knowledge on hand, me and the wife went to try out this wizardry in our local coin laundromat.  While dye will not stick to the insides of the washer, it's a good practice to give the machine a good wash after the process, as a courtesy to the next user.   (DEC 2018)

I can actually see the cloth losing its deep green...

And actually see the black happening!!!

We came home with a black plash!  Success!!!

 

It was many-a-December-nights when I started the process of muddying-up the Plash.  It was not an easy and simple process of just dirtying up the material.  Somehow I was obsessed with making sense of the placement of acrylic paint, which color goes where, which are weathered heavily, how would the other areas got weathered, how I shouldn't forget to weather the inside part, but to not make them as heavily weathered as the outside.

The splash on the plash has to make sense.  Somehow.,, (DEC 2018)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

PARKING THE PARKA  (Part 3: Rigging the Plash to the Body Armor)

Another dreaded build prospect for me was finding out how I could put on the Plash on the armor properly, easily, and consistently.  
This costume is going to be trooped eventually.  My mind is already in the process of dressing up and down and wondering how much help I would need from handlers...

Again, my default was snaps on straps.  Oh, if all the world's ills could only be solved by these! (DEC 2018)

Armed with two webbings with snaps on its ends, I identified two strategic points on the plash and sewn the webbings on them.

Then I identified two good points on the front armor that can act as the main anchor for the plash.

I installed a good amount of paracord through the back part of the plash so it can help bring up the plash, in support of the snap anchors.  

I've yet to find an efficient and easier way to tie these cords up.  But the snap-cord combination is the system for me.

 

The only thing left is to ask a handler to fold the points at the back so the parka falls and flows smartly.

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED PLASH PALATKA (as of JAN 2019)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

TONIC TUNIC & HOT PANTS

In anticipation of the tunic, one of the first items I ordered was the silver PVC cog patch offered by Jim Lau from the FB group.  It was funny that by the time Jim mailed it to the US,  I was in Hongkong.   And Jim lives in HK.   (SEP 2018)

 

Jim's tunic is one piece of pretty.  

It took me a while to reconcile with myself that I'll be messing up a fine piece of clothing.

But what the heck... My only regret was for some strange reason, I never got to take a picture of the clean tunic.  Arggh! (DEC 2018)

 

I was actually surprised that I was able to take a picture of Jim's Mud pants before I massacred it with layers upon layers of acrylic paint...

 

I initially tried Sebastian's street chalk method.  It was a nice idea but it comes off easily and it tends to be dusty.  Plus I wanted a more permanent solution so I kept with my acrylic paints.  Fortunately, it registered well on the pants.

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

OTHER SOFT GOODS

There's not much to say about these other items but that fact that like them enough to have actually used them during the holidays. (OCT 2018) 

 

And because of Jafo's relentless pursuit of Mud perfection, he unearthed the undershirt used by the actors in the movie.

While not seen and not a requirement of the proposed CRL, I decided to get one.  Might as well, right?

This is the closest we'll ever get to living the dream of being a Star Wars character -- building a costume that is as close to what they wore in the movies!

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED SOFT PARTS (as of JAN 2019)

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

NOT ALL CREATURES WITH POUCHES ARE MARSUPIALS... (Part 1: MP40 Ammo Pouch)

The Muds have quite a good amount of little touches that enhance its looks (ie the scarf).  

Another nice thing that endeared me to the character was with slight changes in accessories, you can attain a different look.

Want to be a medic?  Change a bicep (which I've yet to order from Jim).  Warm troop?  Respirator off.  Want to go incognito? Respirator on.

Same goes with the pouches.  Want to not be chest-bare?  Grab either of the approved pouch accessories!

 

It was a delight to actually receive an MP40  from Imperial Boots that is already weathered! (OCT 2018)

All I had to do was do a number on this thing in order to affix it better to the armor in a way that it stays in place.

I shared this as an MMM in the Facebook Group Page.  Therefore...

 

MAD MUD MOD: TAMING THE MP40 AMMO POUCH: (DEC 2018)

Here’s how i tamed the ammo pouch. I like things to be easy and consistent during troops. 

I massacred the ammo pouch and installed snaps and a velcro strip so it attaches easily and snugly on the armor. It still maintains the look as prescribed in the draft CRL (“upper strap over the right shoulder...” “lower strap across the chest...”)

Now my ammo pouch stays in place, it can be an easy snap on and off affair in case I want to just troop without it or switch to the cloth bandoleer.

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

NOT ALL CREATURES WITH POUCHES ARE MARSUPIALS... (Part 2: Soft Bandoleer)

The Mud costume I reckon is quite a weighty one to wear.  

In this regard, the cloth bandoleer would be a welcome respite from the bulk the look of this character sports. (OCT 2018)

I bought a small block of 23mm hard foam.  I used it to stuff the bandoleer.  Very lightweight ammo pouch we have here!

After stuffing the bandoleer, I blasted it with black spray paint and proceeded with the subsequent weathering, 

 

MAD MUD MOD: RIGGING THE CLOTH BANDOLEER: (DEC 2018)

If you’re tired of lugging around the heavier ammo pouch, switch to the lightweight cloth bandolier!  Most will just tie em around the armor or whatnot, I approached it differently.

Again I started with the massacre of a nice cloth bandolier.  Cut the webbing short, installed velcro strips on both ends and the pairing strips on the armor.

While it only stays in one place and in one configuration, it gives me that consistent look with pieces staying in ther proper spot.  Easy on and off affair too.

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED POUCHES (as of JAN 2019)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

BLASTED! (Part 1: E11-B)

This character really packs.  Got three blaster options!

A quick one for me was transforming my TK's Hyperfirm E11 to an E11-B.

It's as simple as installing an M300 (or a replica) to the side t-track and voila.  Weapon #1!

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

BLASTED! (Part 2: E10 Build)

I rarely purchase 3d-printed stuff for my costumes.  I'm just too scared to drop and wreck the items.  Ooh, and the prospect of sanding is not a rosy thing for me.  I know there are special paint and stuff that evens out the 3d print lines, and the acetone vapor technique and stuff.  Too complicated for me or maybe I need research some more.

The major 3d-printed item I own is the Bilaro Electro-Chain Whip aka the sword of my Pratetorian Guard.  And it's had its fair share of breaking.

My 3d-printed E10 from Inland Empire Armory is the other major 3d-printed weapon I own and I'm glad it is a dream of a kit to build and complete!  And surprisingly, it only took me a fair amount of time to sand. (NOV 2018) 

Everything that you need to complete the kit is provided for, except for the required 1/2" PVC pipe that will practically run across the entire blaster.  This is easily available from your favorite hardware store.

I have some lying around my house, but they're the thinner ones.  To give my blaster a bit of weight, I inserted a good amount of clay inside.  This is a practice of mine when "converting" store-bought Star Wars blasters.

The first order of business for me was prepping the main structure which was the main barrel.   Sanding, primer, then first coats of the (NOV 2018) 

 

Next portion is putting the pieces together... (NOV 2018)

 

Then blasting with the final coat colors that I chose for this build (NOV 2018).

 

With JAFO's late November reveal of the correct torch used on the E10 came my early December delivery... (DEC 2018)

 

In the absence of the correct buckles for the sling, I made use of spare buckles and d-rings, plus one of the shoulder straps of the Yugo belt.  This was my temporary sling.  While inaccurate, it looked actually cool, in my opinion (DEC 2018).

 

I'm sure this is not canon.  But I blasted the grip, end of the buttstock, and the front stock with Plasti-dip to give it a rubbery texture.  I like it.  (DEC 2018)

 

Over the holidays, I was having a chat with Steven of Imperial Armor Co., seeing how he might still be able to improve on the kit.  We agreed that there should be a light-up version for the taser attachment and the mag.  He came through with a very quick mod and it arrived 'round second week of the first month.  Now I'm so excited to work on this mod (JAN 2019)!

Mid of January, and I can't stop proceeding assembling the upgrade kit from Inland Empire Armory.  So I proceeded with sanding and primer...

I finished the mag painting first in order to test the lighting that I planned.  I wanted something un-complicated, self-contained, and will fit inside the mag.  I settled for a cheap fairy lights from amazon, with a self-contained pack that includes an on/off switch powered by two CR2032 coin batteries. (JAN 2019)

I have a red vinyl tube from Tap Plastic lying around the house.  Cut a piece that fits the mag top window, flattened it with a heat gun.  CA-glued it on the part and E6000'd it to the mag.  

I finagled the fairy lights inside, propped it with a small block of modeling clay (I use them to add a bit of weight).

With the taser body painted and prepped, I installed the red film on the cover and installed the fairy lights inside.  (JAN 2019)

Since Inland Armory sent the kit with a working switch, I connected it to the fairy light's control box. (JAN 2019)

Comparing the old box and the new...

Here are the old taser "bayonet tips" I detached from my original taser box.  Note the pegs I inserted at the end.  This gives them a good support aside from CA glue.  

Drilled holes on the new taser box:

At Inland Armory's advise, I ordered braided stainless steel sleeving from Amazon and used it to wrap the body of the taser tips, as seen in reference photos... (JAN 2019)

 

I'll be doing a bit of weathering and touch paint.   I know I'd return and properly install LEDs on the mag and the taser box.  But here's my  new upgraded and more screen-accurate E10. (JAN 2019)

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

THE COMPLETED E-10 (as of JAN 2019)

With temporary black webbing strap

 

[rickyboyblue[CMD-DCA]]

PREPARING THE SUBMISSION PICTURES...

With all parts done, the only thing to do is do a final fitting and take formal photos for submission to our GML.

But that can only be done when this great detachment gives birth to a brand new CRL featuring an awesome costume.

 

So in the meantime, this costume that I learned to quickly love stays inside its storage.  The same one I used to transport it with me shy of 7,000 miles...

 

This project's done.  For now.

I wish you good luck on yours...

[ukswrath[TX]]

On 1/8/2019 at 10:22 AM, rickyboyblue said:

Thank you very much, my friend.

It was actually you who instilled in me the value of passing on knowledge and sharing build experiences so other folks who thinks they can benefit from it, use it.

For me, you're also one of the gold standards in build threads.  I'm just following in your footsteps and I hope I give justice to your examples. 

Thanks for the inspiration, Tony! ?

Haha glad I inspired you. Troopers Helping Troopers. 

[RAIDER[COTG]]

Excellent resource @rickyboyblue.  Thank you so much for posting it here!  I hope we can get some other detailed builds up here as well to help expedite these grunts to the frontline!!!