Force Unleashed Jumptrooper CRL Discussion

[RAIDER[COTG]]

Taking a break from forums for a bit today (back tonight)…but let's post this so we are ready to move on. I will come back to this and edit my observations in there. Pack next by itself.

Quote

 

Jet Pack

• The main tank is flat black in color. 
  • Three white straps are present on the tank with the top strap wrapping around the entire tank. The top two straps are approximately 1-1/8” (30mm) wide. The bottom strap is approximately ¾” (20mm) wide.
  • The center raised section is white in color with two recessed rectangular sections. 
• Two nozzles, primarily white in color, are present on each side of the main tank. 
  • The nozzle caps are flat black in color with a white strap that is approximately ¾” (20mm) wide. 
  • A gray strap, approximately ¾” (20mm) wide, runs around the nozzle body.
• A white pipe that is approximately 40mm in diameter connects each nozzle to the main tank.
• A pentagonal plate, white in color, is present that the main tank and nozzle are mounted upon. 

 

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

1 hour ago, Fivezero said:

Yeah that's what I was thinking, shoulder joins are smooth. But I agree, let's keep it simple and get rid of any mention of no seams/gaps. How's this?

"Top of the chest plate, at the shoulder, must be flush with the back plate."

This looks good and for a matter of practicality for getting in and out of the suit to allow them to be two-pieces that have to sit flush. We have that with the R1 Imperial Combat Assault Tank Driver and AT-ACT Driver suit. They made it so that you can split it and then have a neck pieces that covers the seam because you wouldn't be able to get your head in otherwise.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

• Styled after the pack as seen in The Force Unleashed video game. An interpretation of the pack is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged.
• The main fuel tank is cylindrical with a rounded conical top and flat black in color.
  • Three white stripes are present on the tank with the top stripe wrapping around the entire tank. The top two stripes are approximately 1.25” (30mm) wide. The bottom stripe is approximately ¾” (20mm) wide.
  • There is a beveled and raised center section that is white in color which starts from the bottom white strip of the main fuel tank to half way between the upper two stripes. This center section has two recessed rectangular sections.
• Two rocket housings, primarily white in color, are present on each side of the main fuel tank.
  • The upper part of each rocket housing has caps that are flat black in color with a white stripe that is approximately ¾” (20mm) wide.
  • The white part of the rocket housings curves downward at the side of each housing and rounds out at the rear facing side of the housing before going back up again towards the inside of the main fuel tank.
  • A gray stripe, approximately ¾” (20mm) wide, runs around the midway part of each rocket housing.
  • At the bottom of each rocket housing there is a conical exhaust nozzle that is white in color.
• A curved white pipe that is approximately 1.5" (40mm) in diameter connects each rocket housing to the main fuel tank.
• A pentagonal plate, white in color, is present that the main fuel tank and rocket housings are mounted upon.

Okay so above is what I have made changes with by putting the text in this light orange color. I drew some reference from our Rocket Trooper for descriptors on the pack.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Thanks @IcyTrooper! Overall looks great! I do have a couple notes I’ll post when I get home, though.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Alright here's my couple notes, like I said overall looks great!

1. Stripes.... So I debated this for awhile when I was modelling/working on the pack. Ultimately I decided having raised bands similar to the forearms would be the way to go. I was worried that the pack would look flat/off with painted on stripes. Somethings just don't translate the same in real life. Also there is not much detail on the pack, so having raised bands would bring some dimension/depth to the pack. This would also be a tie in with the look of the forearms. Just a warning, I will argue this.

2. "The white part of the rocket housings go down at approximately a 45 degree angle." On the original model, this is actually three separate angles, which tells me it's a curve (I know you said approximately). The curve starts out sharp and ends a bit shallower than how it began. We should change this to reflect this curved cut.

2. "A gray stripe, approximately ¾” (20mm) wide, runs around the upper part of each cap"  This is supposed to be midway on the housing. Here's a quick picture with my understanding of the pack.

3. "There is the presence of a seam midway around each rocket housing." See gray band above ^

4. "There is a seam that runs vertically on each exhaust nozzle in the center and is viewable from behind." To me this doesn't look intentional, this is probably the result of poor stitching of the texture on the model and the low resolution of the model itself. I don't believe it should not be represented in real life. You can see the same effect on the rear of the helmet. This game can be funky.

 

So those are my thoughts, I can delve more into "Fivezero's Theory on Video Game Troopers" if needed. Again thanks Icytrooper! Fantastic write-up, much better than my first draft.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Thank you for those points!

1. I agree with that on the forearms!

2. I can definitely see that as a model limitation. I have made the following change to say "curves downward at the side".

2nd 2 (haha). I see what you meant and have updated a bullet point to this now: "A gray stripe, approximately ¾” (20mm) wide, runs around the midway part of each rocket housing."

3. Another agreement, and I removed it!

4. I can see that as well and agree with it being an issue with the texture mapping so I removed it.

[RAIDER[COTG]]

On 1/10/2021 at 12:34 PM, Fivezero said:

Since the pack and upper torso parts look to be near done, I'm posting this before I head to bed...

 

Abdomen Armor

• The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 flat black buttons. (I'm only counting 7.  2 vertical sets of 3 left and center and then 1 button by itself.  Are there pics showing 2 additional buttons under the chest plate?)  Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter.
  • Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos.
• The ab plate is white in color.
• The cod plate is simplified featuring three raised surfaces. (Could I get a clarification on this and "simplified" please?)
• A smaller, angular plate is mounted on the top of the main abdomen plate. - Split into its own section? I don't think so if it's attached.  Should mention it goes under the chest plate partially maybe.
  • The small plate is flat black in color and features 12 holes 1” (25mm) in diameter.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed.
• Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed.

• There shall be a return edge that is present on the smaller plate with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
• A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around the cod plate.

 

Kidney Armor

• The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style).
• If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor.
• The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor.

Seeing this picture it looks like the kidney and posterior are separate and so I think ANH style should be L2 req.  Would probably need to replicate that req to the posterior L2 as well (and they should be separate if that is the standard we would want looking at this reference).

Posterior Armor

• The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style).

 

[Fivezero[TX]]

1. Ab buttons - I copied 9 buttons for commonality, technically TFU troopers have 10 total. Took another look at the model and removed that black plate. There is another button on the left side (as you're wearing it), and a tiny hint of a button in the center. Unfortunately they removed some geometry under this plate, so we gotta make something up. If full geometry was there, we would probably see the usual 5 on the center plate, and the TFU 5 button row on the left side.

2. Cod Plate - Basically I'm try to say "it isn't a standard TK cod." I agree it needs to be reworded. Maybe remove any mention of it, let the pictures do the talking?

3. Small Plate -

• A smaller, angular plate is mounted on the top of the main abdomen plate. 
  • The small plate is flat black in color and features 12 holes 1” (25mm) in diameter.
  • The plate partially obscures the top of the button areas, covering the top buttons.
  • The chest armor partially overlaps this plate.

4. Kidney/Posterior - Sounds good to me, so like this?

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The kidney and posterior armor shall be two separate pieces. (ANH style).

 

I'll get the main post updated with the torso armor/jet pack after we agree on this set.

[RAIDER[COTG]]

2 hours ago, Fivezero said:

1. Ab buttons - I copied 9 buttons for commonality, technically TFU troopers have 10 total. Took another look at the model and removed that black plate. There is another button on the left side (as you're wearing it), and a tiny hint of a button in the center. Unfortunately they removed some geometry under this plate, so we gotta make something up. If full geometry was there, we would probably see the usual 5 on the center plate, and the TFU 5 button row on the left side.

2. Cod Plate - Basically I'm try to say "it isn't a standard TK cod." I agree it needs to be reworded. Maybe remove any mention of it, let the pictures do the talking?

3. Small Plate -

• A smaller, angular plate is mounted on the top of the main abdomen plate. 
  • The small plate is flat black in color and features 12 holes 1” (25mm) in diameter.
  • The plate partially obscures the top of the button areas, covering the top buttons.
  • The chest armor partially overlaps this plate.

4. Kidney/Posterior - Sounds good to me, so like this?

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The kidney and posterior armor shall be two separate pieces. (ANH style).

 

I'll get the main post updated with the torso armor/jet pack after we agree on this set.

All good.

Maybe for the cod just simply state it is not a standard TK cod and that it needs to look like the image we provide.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Sorry guys, been busy the last couple days... Will get the main post up-to-date tomorrow so we can keep plugging along.

[RAIDER[COTG]]

44 minutes ago, Fivezero said:

Sorry guys, been busy the last couple days... Will get the main post up-to-date tomorrow so we can keep plugging along.

Cool once caught up I will post the legs/boots and we should be a out done

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Yep, once you get that update in there I can jump back into it again!

[Fivezero[TX]]

Alright guys, everything has been updated up to the belt. Just the belt, thighs, shins and boots to go! I'll try to get something written this weekend for the weapons as well as some flavor text.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Sounds good to me! Rolling right along. We'll give the measurements and text a once over as we are getting ready to put them into the CRL wiki.

[RAIDER[COTG]]

On 1/10/2021 at 12:34 PM, Fivezero said:

Belt

• The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with two square buttons on each end of the belt.
• The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 2” to 3” (50-75mm) wide.
  • The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor.
• Two white pouches hang on either side of the belt face. - Split into its own section? If the pouches are attached (like typical drop boxes), I think keep it in here.
  •   Each pouch features two sections with a gap between (?) and a single flap covering both sections.
  • The right pouch is 6-1/4” (160mm) tall by 4-1/2” (115mm) wide by 2” (50mm) deep.
  • The left pouch is 8-5/8” (220mm) tall by 6-1/8” (155mm) wide by 2” (50mm) deep.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The ammo belt shall have longer ends than standard TK-style belts. The 6 rectangular boxes are angled on each side.
• The corners of the white plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small angle at the top and a large sweeping curve that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. (Just need some reference clarification here please.)
• The canvas belt must be 2” (50mm) wide.
• The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels.
• Add that there are no buttons in between those belt boxes (similar to ROTJ TK belt).

 

Thigh Armor

• The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.
• Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
• The front cover strips are approximately 2” to 2-1/2” (50mm to 65mm) and run the length of the thigh.
  • The cover strips have an angled cut that meets at a sharp point at the top of the thigh. – Move to Level 2? Sure.
• Rear cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge.
• An additional ridge is present on the outside of the thighs, running to the lower ridge.
• If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

 

Lower Leg Armor

• The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.
• Octagonal knee plates, flat black in color, are present on each shin.
• The right shin features a small ammo belt. This belt can be affixed with Velcro, rivets or glued in place
• Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The knee plates must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching them to the shins.
• A black flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges of the knee plates Help me out don't see this.
• The ammo belt must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.
• There shall be a return edge that is present on the ammo belt with a maximum width of 1/4" (6mm) width.
• The ends of the ammo belt shall be floating from the shin.
• Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

 

Boots

• Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material.
• A white flap is present on the top of the boot extending over the toe of the boot.
• A smaller black flap is present over the white flap extending roughly halfway down the boot.
• Three pieces of rectangular armor, white in color, are present on the toe of each boot. There is one larger piece at the front, with two smaller pieces at the sides.
• Flat sole with a short heel.
• No buckles or laces. A zipper is allowable on the inside of the boots.
• Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable.
• Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

Do you have your boots made so I can see a real life example of what this will look like?

Optional Accessories

Neck Seal

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck.

 

[Fivezero[TX]]

I'm heading out to run some errands right now, will take a look and post my response later tonight!

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

wouldnt the drop pouches be described the same way we did for del meeko? 

[Fivezero[TX]]

Alright, here's my response @RAIDER.

1. Belt - Pouch gap, basically just trying to say that there is a seam (maybe that's a better word) between the two sections. Or if you want, I can remove this and let the pictures do the talking.

Here a picture of the model for the belt showing the end cuts.

Square buttons - I have for L1 that there are "two square buttons on each end of the belt." Do you want me to move this to L2 and add a further clarification that there is no button in the middle? Or just leave it and add the clarification?

2. Thighs - Will move the strip cut over to L2. 

3. Knee plates - Was kinda iffy on this to be honest, since the line just fades away. Here's a shot what I'm basing this off of. Also the EVO Trooper uses the same knee plates (minus the holes) and those have the trim. So I guess it was also for some commonality.

4. Boots - I haven't made the boots up yet, that's the big task this week. Honestly what I wrote is my best guess, this one has some room for interpretation. I figured having two flaps would looks better/more interesting.  Here's the current plan for the boots with some scraps (don't worry they'll be properly shaped when I get to it). I plan to dye these white, and will probably leave the white "flap" unweathered or polish it up to give it some contrast with the rest of the boot.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

I'm in agreement with almost all of what @RAIDER put. The only comment that I have with the belt is to leave the part in there about the two white buttons on each end as you have in L1 and then for L2 probably just remove that part about ROTJ because it is a different belt. The ROTJ belt just has two rivets with no squares on it and this one has the squares...unless we were aiming to have flexibility to allow those to use belts off old costumes to create the TFU look?

I agree with the gasket stuff or molded lip around the knee part, however we have the text on the other costume. The thigh part to L2 is good too.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Alright keeping this moving. So my thoughts on TFU belts in general are that the regular, available belts are good for L1, and the specific TFU style belts for L2 (this applies to the EVOs, Shadow Stormtrooper and this guy). So going forward, I'm only tweaking the pouch & thigh descriptions, sound about right? Leaving the shins & boots as is? Here's everything that changed, if we're all in agreement I'll get the main post updated.

 

Belt

• The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with two square buttons on each end of the belt.
• The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 2” to 3” (50-75mm) wide.
  • The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor.
• Two white pouches hang on either side of the belt face.
  •  Each pouch features two sections with a single flap covering both sections.
  • The right pouch is 6-1/4” (160mm) tall by 4-1/2” (115mm) wide by 2” (50mm) deep.
  • The left pouch is 8-5/8” (220mm) tall by 6-1/8” (155mm) wide by 2” (50mm) deep.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The ammo belt shall have longer ends than standard TK-style belts. The 6 rectangular boxes are angled on each side.
• The corners of the white plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small angle at the top and a large sweeping curve that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt.
• The canvas belt must be 2” (50mm) wide.
• The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels.

 

Thigh Armor

• The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.
• Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
• The front cover strips are approximately 2” to 2-1/2” (50mm to 65mm) and run the length of the thigh.
• Rear cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge.
• An additional ridge is present on the outside of the thighs, running to the lower ridge.
• If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
• The front cover strips shall have an angled cut that meets at a sharp point at the top of the thigh.

 

[RAIDER[COTG]]

Just to clarify on the belt then @Fivezero to make sure I understand...

By "regular available belts" are you referring to any style of TK belt including ANH TK style?  The reason I'm hanging on this...is those have the square button in the center.  I would def want that mentioned in L2 that the center button shouldn't be there at all if that's the case.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Yep that’s exactly what I’m thinking, ROTJ or ANH sculpt allowable. But with the two square button covers, all for L1. Then for L2 have the specific TFU-style sculpt with the longer ends, angled boxes and the specific cuts on the ends. 

This is why I was wondering if we should it open it up for basic (allow three covers) and then move the two covers on the end, none in the middle, over to L2. Or just keep it as is and add the additional clarification for L2. I’m split either way, and my belt is all TFU, so it doesn’t matter to me. So whatever you guys think would work best. 

 

 

[RAIDER[COTG]]

2 hours ago, Fivezero said:

Yep that’s exactly what I’m thinking, ROTJ or ANH sculpt allowable. But with the two square button covers, all for L1. Then for L2 have the specific TFU-style sculpt with the longer ends, angled boxes and the specific cuts on the ends. 

This is why I was wondering if we should it open it up for basic (allow three covers) and then move the two covers on the end, none in the middle, over to L2. Or just keep it as is and add the additional clarification for L2. I’m split either way, and my belt is all TFU, so it doesn’t matter to me. So whatever you guys think would work best. 

 

 

I'm not opposed to any belt type at L1...but yea just specify L2 has all those particular details (or lack of certain details) to weed out ANH or other types of belts as L2 options.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Here is what I have below in light orange. I just changed up the measurements to match our CRL editing guide for the standards. I also added the text about no third square button for L2 requirements.

 

Belt

• The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with two square buttons on each end of the belt.
• The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 2” to 3” (50-75mm) wide.
• The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor.
• Two white pouches hang on either side of the belt face.
• Each pouch features two sections with a single flap covering both sections.
• The right pouch is approximately 6.25” x 4.5" x 2" (160mm x 115mm x 50mm).
• The left pouch is approximately 8.625” x 6.125" x 2" (220mm x 155mm x 50mm).

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• The ammo belt shall have longer ends than standard TK-style belts. The 6 rectangular boxes are angled on each side.
• There is not a third square button in the center like standard TK-style belts.
• The corners of the white plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed with a small angle at the top and a large sweeping curve that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt.
• The canvas belt must be 2” (50mm) wide.
• The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels.
   

Thigh Armor

• The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed.
• Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part.
• The front cover strips are approximately 2” to 2.5” (50-65mm) and run the length of the thigh.
• Rear cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge.
• An additional ridge is present on the outside of the thighs, running to the lower ridge.
• If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
• The front cover strips shall have an angled cut that meets at a sharp point at the top of the thigh.

[Fivezero[TX]]

Sounds great, thanks guys! I’ll get the main post updated when I get home later today.
 

All clear on the shin armor and the boots? Just to make sure, if so I’ll get those finalized too.