Paul's Death Trooper Build

[Mal86]

20 hours ago, BLACKFOX said:

Builds coming along nicely.

I also had to cut down my thighs and shins a few times to make them comfortable when walking. Noted nine was ABS and not fibreglass.

Thank you! I've slowed down a little due to some of my work and family commitments, but its still coming along.

[PolarMuffin83]

This is coming along really nicely, I wanted to ask about your Buckle from blasterfactory, would you say it would have been wearable even with the scuffs on it or was it just too far gone for comfort in your opinion. I'm looking to keep things as budgeted as possible so a scuffed up belt buckle isn't my biggest worry. 

[Mal86]

On 2/14/2024 at 2:24 PM, PolarMuffin83 said:

This is coming along really nicely, I wanted to ask about your Buckle from blasterfactory, would you say it would have been wearable even with the scuffs on it or was it just too far gone for comfort in your opinion. I'm looking to keep things as budgeted as possible so a scuffed up belt buckle isn't my biggest worry. 

It is absolutely wearable.  If I hadn't stumbled across the person who was looking for a Night Death Trooper, I probably would have kept the original and used it. 

Blasterfactory's position was that the scratching was actual consistent with the original Death Trooper costumes.  My buckle might get weathered eventually, but I wanted my initial build to look like a crisp, sharp, and highly polished trooper.

Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions, or if I can help in any other way.  I've tried to make this build thread as informational as I can to help others.

[Mal86]

Did another rounds of trimming my thighs and the insides of the forearms.  I'm going to add a strap from the wrist on my shirt to go around my thumb.  The sleeve bunches up as I move around with them on, messing with the fitment.

I think the tops of the thighs are about the right height, but they still rub a little in my lower abs when I sit, so I'm debating shortening, if I should be able to sit in the armor.  

Are you able to sit in the armor once its complete?  If so, anything special that needs to be done to make it more comfortable?  I'm thinking about how to manage going to a con and wanting to sit through panels, etc.

The crotch peice rubs against the inner thighs, so I am going to need to open the inner thigh area up a little.

 

 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

57 minutes ago, Mal86 said:

Are you able to sit in the armor once its complete?  If so, anything special that needs to be done to make it more comfortable?  I'm thinking about how to manage going to a con and wanting to sit through panels, etc.

I can sit when I am dressing and just have my thighs and shins on when putting on my boots, but once my suspenders are on and the upper body armour is on, I ca’t sit. Sitting in full armour is generally tough. 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

On 2/20/2024 at 3:28 AM, Mal86 said:

Are you able to sit in the armor once its complete?  If so, anything special that needs to be done to make it more comfortable?  I'm thinking about how to manage going to a con and wanting to sit through panels, etc.

 

 

I can sit with my armor, its a Jim Tripon kit so the material is pretty durable. Some things to keep in mind if you so want to be able to sit. Your thighs will need to be trimmed enough along the top so that when you sit, your thighs are not pushing up against your belt and your hip joint. You will also have to build / strap your cod and posterior pieces so that they are part of the belt/lower abdomen, and lower back plate. Make your upper chest and back armor so that it floats up and down around the lower armor. Adjust the fit so that the visible abdomen horizontal ribs as mentioned in the CRL, are the correct count. When sitting, the number visible is not an issue.

[Mal86]

20 hours ago, Chaos said:

I can sit with my armor, its a Jim Tripon kit so the material is pretty durable. Some things to keep in mind if you so want to be able to sit. Your thighs will need to be trimmed enough along the top so that when you sit, your thighs are not pushing up against your belt and your hip joint. You will also have to build / strap your cod and posterior pieces so that they are part of the belt/lower abdomen, and lower back plate. Make your upper chest and back armor so that it floats up and down around the lower armor. Adjust the fit so that the visible abdomen horizontal ribs as mentioned in the CRL, are the correct count. When sitting, the number visible is not an issue.

Thanks!  I used your strapping system, so the ab and lower back do float independently, but I did intend to velcro them to the belt and then to velcro the cod/posterior to the belt as well.  Any adjustments I need to consider there other than trial and error?

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Trial and error until you get everything to sit/fit right. It took me maybe 6-10 troopings and adjustments to finally get mine so that it was comfortable and functional.

[Mal86]

Started printing my SE-14R - Purchased the MCM files.

 

Any tips on smoothing these layer lines?  Sanding?  UV Resin?  A little of both?

 

 

Or this area that is rough from supports:

 

Lastly, any suggestions on a scope to get to add realism?  The one recommended with the file on aliexpress is discontinued.

 

Thanks.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Here's the scope:

https://www.amazon.com/HATSON-HA90499-Optima-4x20mm-Scope/dp/B071YJGYVJ

As far as print lines and rough areas, UV resin and sanding, or spot putty and sanding .... lots of sanding!

[PiotrRasputin[501st]]

That is the EXACT scope I bought for mine!

Pro tip, don't paint it until you adjust the mounting brackets and secure it to the barrel. Otherwise, the spray-paint may make it difficult to adjust them to stay in the right spot.

And if you have a hard time finding the screws, like I did for the Cheesehead slotted handle screws, I ended up using https://belmetric.com/ to not only get those, but the right taps to thread the holes correctly.

[Mal86]

@Chaos& @PiotrRasputin - Thank you both!

Scope ordered.

I hadn't gotten to the screws yet.  I was planning to go to a hardware store and see what I can find, but I appreciate having another resource.  I do have some metric taps from a lightsaber project. I'll need to double check the sizes, but I'm pretty sure I've got those.

Any recommendations on order of operations?  Would you smooth then assemble or assemble then smooth?

Thanks again!

[Mal86]

Updates: 
SE-14R: Printed all the parts and have started sanding (more items are sanded since this photo):

I put some scratches in the scope when I spread the metal holder wide enough to move it to the other side.  I might repaint or leave as weathering...

I used 2000 grit sandpaper to take off the brand labeling and "MADE IN CHINA" from the scope.  It worked pretty well.

I have noticed some dips here in there where I have sanded, so I'll either need to fill them with spot putty or resin.  Not sure yet.

Still need to get my screw and tap the holes.

We also picked up some silver iron on stuff for my wife's cricut to make the circuit board.

 

Shins:

Finally adhered the front of my right shin together.  I need to line up the holders for the elastic for the back.  I still need to do the left shin.

I still have a lot of other work to do on the suit, but I've been busy with family, work, life...

[Mal86]

On 3/3/2024 at 10:31 PM, PiotrRasputin said:

That is the EXACT scope I bought for mine!

Pro tip, don't paint it until you adjust the mounting brackets and secure it to the barrel. Otherwise, the spray-paint may make it difficult to adjust them to stay in the right spot.

And if you have a hard time finding the screws, like I did for the Cheesehead slotted handle screws, I ended up using https://belmetric.com/ to not only get those, but the right taps to thread the holes correctly.

@PiotrRasputin thanks for the tip on where to buy the screws. I just went ahead and ordered everything I needed from there for both blasters. I added an extra of each screw to be safe. 

[Mal86]

Assembled the SE-14R after some sanding.

 

Here are my notes:

1) Cheesehead screws in grip are too long.  They bump each other in the center where they meet.  I'd probably get a couple MM shorter.  They'd sit better and avoid that problem.

2) The scope is backwards.  I spent a good bit of time moving one of the metal things to the other side knowing they were both on the same side, only to realize that they need to be on the other side.  

3) When widening one of the metal things, it broke.  I still used it and I'll fill the crack with something in the hope it'll be less noticeable.  Be careful when widening those.

4) Glue the grips on as well as screwing.  Some of the edges will not sit flush unless glued.

5) glue the frame to the barrel.  It closed the slight gap I had from screwing and removed a slight wiggle (I think I didn't screw the back screw tight enough and i had already glued on the piece that covered the screw hole), so a little super glue along the edge of the gap and some pressure fixed it.

6) Make sure the screws holding the frame to the barrel are properly tensioned before glueing the piece that covered it (see note 5)

 

Any tips from those who have done it on things to look at when priming and painting?

[Mal86]

Taped it up to not coat the detailed parts in filler primer

 

 

Only took the tape off for the last coat of filler primer

 

Primed... Then a lot of sanding...

Primed:

 

 

Then I decided to hit it with some gloss aluminum Tamiya in the hopes that if any of the black rubs down or doesn't adhere well, it'll look like its metal underneath:

 

 

Biggest learning: It doesn't matter how smooth it feels.  if I can see lines with the filler primer, I'm going to see them with the paint.

 

Plan to wet sand with 2k grit before hitting it with a tamiya black.

 

[Mal86]

Alright, team... I'm looking for fitment feedback.

Here are a few notes to consider:

• The front and back of the chest pieces are not connect under the arms yet.  When held together it seems to position everything better
• I plan to add loops at the bottom of the pant leg and at the ends of the sleeves as both ride up and put too much fabric in the armor pieces at the forearms and shins (the left pant leg is over the boot and under shin, but I wasn't going to fix it for these picture).
• The backs of the shins can be held closed.  I have nothing holding them yet.  I was originally planning to do elastic like I did with the forearms, but now I think a velcro strip will be better as I can take it on and off that way without sliding my foot through it. I'm open to ideas and feedback on this.
• After the front pictures we realized the left shin is a little too high, but I can scoot it down over the top of the boot.

Thanks in advance for taking a look and giving me your thoughts.

 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

I think it looks pretty good at this point.  The only thing you may have issue with is the top of the thigh may prevent you from bringing your leg forward at the hip.  Make sure you still can move properly. I had to trim a couple of inches off of mine. 

[TookBreaker[TX]]

From the first look, here is what I suggest:

• Shins definitely should move lower. Also, I would highly recommend to try the shins with the rectangular panels on the shoes as they will consume some space too. This will help with getting the shin closures right.
• Loops on the sleeves end are a great idea and will allow to keep the sleeves straight. Pants, you can add loops, but usually I used my socks to keep it all straight.
• For the shins, I would suggest to use black velcro to close.

[Mal86]

On 4/14/2024 at 10:14 PM, DoggyDoc said:

I think it looks pretty good at this point.  The only thing you may have issue with is the top of the thigh may prevent you from bringing your leg forward at the hip.  Make sure you still can move properly. I had to trim a couple of inches off of mine. 

@DoggyDoc Thanks.  I've finally cut it to where I can sit without it painfully digging in to my hips, so I think i should be good, but I was more focused on everything being situated.  I'll do another run through the the focus being on movement instead of just form.

 

On 4/14/2024 at 10:15 PM, TookBreaker said:

From the first look, here is what I suggest:

• Shins definitely should move lower. Also, I would highly recommend to try the shins with the rectangular panels on the shoes as they will consume some space too. This will help with getting the shin closures right.
• Loops on the sleeves end are a great idea and will allow to keep the sleeves straight. Pants, you can add loops, but usually I used my socks to keep it all straight.
• For the shins, I would suggest to use black velcro to close.

@TookBreakerThanks!  I'll re-try the shins with pants tucked in socks and the panels on the boot to make sure they fit. Thanks for the suggestions.  Glad to hear the velcro works.  It'll make it easier to put on myself.

 

 

My plan was to wait to do any velcroing until after painting, etc. Anyone have any reasons that might not be the best idea?

[Mal86]

For those with Jim's kit: When you attached the pieces that went on to the shins and thighs, did you fill them in with anything?

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

17 minutes ago, Mal86 said:

For those with Jim's kit: When you attached the pieces that went on to the shins and thighs, did you fill them in with anything?

I did not fill the backs at all, I just used Bondo to fill the seams that were visible where they attached to the shins and thighs. 

[Mal86]

Well, I was doing another test fit with my thighs and shins. I put my boots on and used the loop on the back to try to pull it on to my foot...

Apparently, the loops on the keep trooping boots must be decorative because I ripped it off.  Any suggestions on how to fix?

[MKE-Trooper[TX]]

45 minutes ago, DoggyDoc said:

I did not fill the backs at all, I just used Bondo to fill the seams that were visible where they attached to the shins and thighs. 

I did the same as DoggyDoc. Glued them on with JB Weld and bondo on the seams to blend. 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

1 hour ago, Mal86 said:

Apparently, the loops on the keep trooping boots must be decorative because I ripped it off.  Any suggestions on how to fix?

That really sucks. Maybe you could try sewing  an  extension onto the leather piece and then gluing it to the inside of the boot with E6000 so it stays soft on your heel. 
maybe contact imperial boots / keep trooping and see if maybe it is a flaw in the material as I don’t think that it should have ripped off.