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Paul's Death Trooper Build


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23 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

That really sucks. Maybe you could try sewing  an  extension onto the leather piece and then gluing it to the inside of the boot with E6000 so it stays soft on your heel. 
maybe contact imperial boots / keep trooping and see if maybe it is a flaw in the material as I don’t think that it should have ripped off. 
 

I waited until today to send the email. I was a little frustrated when it happened, so I wanted to wait. 

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Vincent from Keep Trooping's Original Response:

“pull tabs” are reminiscent of an era when shoe designers accounted for specific material in the making process; nowadays they often are more decorative than anything else; it is the case in the original DrMartens boot used to make the killer shoes. It happens frequently with many brands, that said pull tabs come off because the way we use it, instead to grabbing the tab between fingers , we often put a finger inside the loop thus weakening its structure. There is also a matter of storage ; too dry or too humid for an extended period of time will weaken leather. 

 
As for your situation, I checked the picture and the structural integrity of the boot is not compromised, you have a clean cut and the stitching is still strong. The tab is not going to be seen while wearing a costume not required for clearance. The best course of action now is to make sure you nourish the leather with a proper cream and use a shoe horn. 
 
I let him know I was working for level 2 and I need the tabs.  His follow up response:
 
I can think of two ways , none of them ideal 
 
1. Go to a cobbler and ask them to stitch that part you have back…. They may not agree, the tab will be shorter, and difficult to stitch at the same place. If they do it will last as long as you do not pull on it
 
2. DIY method with leather glue, clean the leather edge (cut a mm off on both sides) Glue the first edge where it broke off, wait 24 hours that the glue is strong enough, make the loop and glue the second edge in place wait 24 hours - it should hold enough so that you can at leats tea the proper pictures for clearance. It won't be strong enough to have any stress on it but it will do the trick 
 
I plan to go the DIY route since it just needs the appearance.
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On the shins, my assumption is that this section needs to connect to the rear closure as marked in red:

02xAApf.jpg

Am I right in my assumption?

If so, how do you create an extension of that raised section?

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14 hours ago, Mal86 said:

On the shins, my assumption is that this section needs to connect to the rear closure as marked in red:

You are correct. It runs from the rear cover strip to the front one according to the CRL. 
 

I used UV resin to build mine up. I made a dam with tape and cardboard and built it up layer by layer.

SP2mqEZ.jpg
The inner part is also done the same way as my fibreglass extensions removed the raised area

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I found these on the backs of some tags for one of kid's clothing.  It feels like I can peel them off and they would still be sticky.

Does the circuit board need to be exactly as the image on the CRL or could I use one of these for level 2?

 

AhVKYVs.jpg

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The CRL for Level 2 only says this "OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
There is a small silver or gray circuit card pattern on the bottom rear just behind the hand grip."

With that being said, when a CRL references an item and does not give a complete description then it defaults back to any photos that are provided. Those "circuit boards" you are showing will work, as long as when they are adhered to the SE-14r, they are close to the approximate size as seen in the photo. Ideally you want it to look exactly like the screen used one.

IEw4Cu2.png

If you know someone who has a Cricut or Silhouette decal cutting machine I can send you a template file which matches the screen used one. You just can't do what someone who I sent the file to for personal use, and start selling them using my file, that really pissed me the F-Off :angry:

 

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7 hours ago, Chaos said:

The CRL for Level 2 only says this "OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
There is a small silver or gray circuit card pattern on the bottom rear just behind the hand grip."

With that being said, when a CRL references an item and does not give a complete description then it defaults back to any photos that are provided. Those "circuit boards" you are showing will work, as long as when they are adhered to the SE-14r, they are close to the approximate size as seen in the photo. Ideally you want it to look exactly like the screen used one.

IEw4Cu2.png

If you know someone who has a Cricut or Silhouette decal cutting machine I can send you a template file which matches the screen used one. You just can't do what someone who I sent the file to for personal use, and start selling them using my file, that really pissed me the F-Off :angry:

 

@Chaos Thanks! My wife has a cricut and I bought some silver metal heat transfer vinyl to try to make it. Is there a better material? Campbell’s files came with your a file, but I haven’t looked at it yet. If yours would work on the cricut, I’d appreciate the personal use of it. :) 

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I used a decal for mine.  The issue was that normal printers can not print silver on clear, it uses the white from the paper in the colour, so all that came out was a faint grey image.  I opted to instead, paint the area of the blaster silver and then did the decal in black to make the pattern. It worked well but having a cricut now that I did not have then, would have been easier. 

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22 hours ago, Mal86 said:

@Chaos Thanks! My wife has a cricut and I bought some silver metal heat transfer vinyl to try to make it. Is there a better material? Campbell’s files came with your a file, but I haven’t looked at it yet. If yours would work on the cricut, I’d appreciate the personal use of it. :) 

My file is a Silloutte format, however, I can convert it to a .svg file so you should be able to import it and use to cut the silver vinyl. I'll send it to you later today. Your SE-r is made with MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files)? I ask because there are 2 different sizes based on the blaster modelling size.

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4 hours ago, Chaos said:

My file is a Silloutte format, however, I can convert it to a .svg file so you should be able to import it and use to cut the silver vinyl. I'll send it to you later today. Your SE-r is made with MCM Design's files (Previously known as MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files))? I ask because there are 2 different sizes based on the blaster modelling size.

It is MCM Design's files.  It came with a .dxf file for the decal, but I have not attempted to figure out if that is useable with the cricut yet.  If you can send over one I can use, it'd be appreciated.  No rush, it'll probably be a few weeks before I need it.  I ran out of spray paint before finishing the SE-14R, so I'll need to get some and finish it before attaching the decal.

 

Thanks again!

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