Paul's Death Trooper Build

[Mal86]

23 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

That really sucks. Maybe you could try sewing  an  extension onto the leather piece and then gluing it to the inside of the boot with E6000 so it stays soft on your heel. 
maybe contact imperial boots / keep trooping and see if maybe it is a flaw in the material as I don’t think that it should have ripped off. 
 

I waited until today to send the email. I was a little frustrated when it happened, so I wanted to wait. 

[Mal86]

Vincent from Keep Trooping's Original Response:

“pull tabs” are reminiscent of an era when shoe designers accounted for specific material in the making process; nowadays they often are more decorative than anything else; it is the case in the original DrMartens boot used to make the killer shoes. It happens frequently with many brands, that said pull tabs come off because the way we use it, instead to grabbing the tab between fingers , we often put a finger inside the loop thus weakening its structure. There is also a matter of storage ; too dry or too humid for an extended period of time will weaken leather. 

 

As for your situation, I checked the picture and the structural integrity of the boot is not compromised, you have a clean cut and the stitching is still strong. The tab is not going to be seen while wearing a costume not required for clearance. The best course of action now is to make sure you nourish the leather with a proper cream and use a shoe horn. 

 

I let him know I was working for level 2 and I need the tabs.  His follow up response:

 

I can think of two ways , none of them ideal 

 

1. Go to a cobbler and ask them to stitch that part you have back…. They may not agree, the tab will be shorter, and difficult to stitch at the same place. If they do it will last as long as you do not pull on it

 

2. DIY method with leather glue, clean the leather edge (cut a mm off on both sides) Glue the first edge where it broke off, wait 24 hours that the glue is strong enough, make the loop and glue the second edge in place wait 24 hours - it should hold enough so that you can at leats tea the proper pictures for clearance. It won't be strong enough to have any stress on it but it will do the trick 

 

I plan to go the DIY route since it just needs the appearance.

[Mal86]

On the shins, my assumption is that this section needs to connect to the rear closure as marked in red:

Am I right in my assumption?

If so, how do you create an extension of that raised section?

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

 

14 hours ago, Mal86 said:

On the shins, my assumption is that this section needs to connect to the rear closure as marked in red:

You are correct. It runs from the rear cover strip to the front one according to the CRL. 
 

I used UV resin to build mine up. I made a dam with tape and cardboard and built it up layer by layer.

The inner part is also done the same way as my fibreglass extensions removed the raised area

[Mal86]

I found these on the backs of some tags for one of kid's clothing.  It feels like I can peel them off and they would still be sticky.

Does the circuit board need to be exactly as the image on the CRL or could I use one of these for level 2?

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

The CRL for Level 2 only says this "OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
There is a small silver or gray circuit card pattern on the bottom rear just behind the hand grip."

With that being said, when a CRL references an item and does not give a complete description then it defaults back to any photos that are provided. Those "circuit boards" you are showing will work, as long as when they are adhered to the SE-14r, they are close to the approximate size as seen in the photo. Ideally you want it to look exactly like the screen used one.

If you know someone who has a Cricut or Silhouette decal cutting machine I can send you a template file which matches the screen used one. You just can't do what someone who I sent the file to for personal use, and start selling them using my file, that really pissed me the F-Off 

 

[Mal86]

7 hours ago, Chaos said:

The CRL for Level 2 only says this "OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
There is a small silver or gray circuit card pattern on the bottom rear just behind the hand grip."

With that being said, when a CRL references an item and does not give a complete description then it defaults back to any photos that are provided. Those "circuit boards" you are showing will work, as long as when they are adhered to the SE-14r, they are close to the approximate size as seen in the photo. Ideally you want it to look exactly like the screen used one.

If you know someone who has a Cricut or Silhouette decal cutting machine I can send you a template file which matches the screen used one. You just can't do what someone who I sent the file to for personal use, and start selling them using my file, that really pissed me the F-Off 

 

@Chaos Thanks! My wife has a cricut and I bought some silver metal heat transfer vinyl to try to make it. Is there a better material? Campbell’s files came with your a file, but I haven’t looked at it yet. If yours would work on the cricut, I’d appreciate the personal use of it.  

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

I used a decal for mine.  The issue was that normal printers can not print silver on clear, it uses the white from the paper in the colour, so all that came out was a faint grey image.  I opted to instead, paint the area of the blaster silver and then did the decal in black to make the pattern. It worked well but having a cricut now that I did not have then, would have been easier. 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

22 hours ago, Mal86 said:

@Chaos Thanks! My wife has a cricut and I bought some silver metal heat transfer vinyl to try to make it. Is there a better material? Campbell’s files came with your a file, but I haven’t looked at it yet. If yours would work on the cricut, I’d appreciate the personal use of it.  

My file is a Silloutte format, however, I can convert it to a .svg file so you should be able to import it and use to cut the silver vinyl. I'll send it to you later today. Your SE-r is made with MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files)? I ask because there are 2 different sizes based on the blaster modelling size.

[Mal86]

4 hours ago, Chaos said:

My file is a Silloutte format, however, I can convert it to a .svg file so you should be able to import it and use to cut the silver vinyl. I'll send it to you later today. Your SE-r is made with MCM Design's files (Previously known as MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files))? I ask because there are 2 different sizes based on the blaster modelling size.

It is MCM Design's files.  It came with a .dxf file for the decal, but I have not attempted to figure out if that is useable with the cricut yet.  If you can send over one I can use, it'd be appreciated.  No rush, it'll probably be a few weeks before I need it.  I ran out of spray paint before finishing the SE-14R, so I'll need to get some and finish it before attaching the decal.

 

Thanks again!

[Mal86]

I'm looking for feedback on the fitment of the shin.

I wrapped it around my leg, had my wife draw a line on it, and then added velcro based on the line.  When I wear it velcroed, it feels like its riding up and the top of the front is pushing in to my kneecap.  I hadn't experienced that before the velcroing.

Any feedback on either the positioning or on the shoving in to my knee/riding up would be appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Suggestion to fix the riding up and overall appearance, don't make the shin fit tight. If it's loose around your ankle, the movement of walking won't push up the shin. Because it's too tight when it does get pushed up, it doesn't fall back in place. With it loose you may run into the shin rotating. You can keep the shin aligned to the front by putting a piece of velcro on your boot spats and the inside front of the shin. That's how mine is and it works well AND the lower part of my shin doesn't feel like it's compressing my ankles.

 

 

 

[Mal86]

On 5/18/2024 at 8:12 AM, Chaos said:

Suggestion to fix the riding up and overall appearance, don't make the shin fit tight. If it's loose around your ankle, the movement of walking won't push up the shin. Because it's too tight when it does get pushed up, it doesn't fall back in place. With it loose you may run into the shin rotating. You can keep the shin aligned to the front by putting a piece of velcro on your boot spats and the inside front of the shin. That's how mine is and it works well AND the lower part of my shin doesn't feel like it's compressing my ankles.

 

 

 

I'll look at adding the velcro to the front to hold it in place.  When you say the boot spat, do you mean the cover pieces or something else?

I don't think I I can widem the shin at the ankle any more without either: 

1) widening the part

2) trying to reduce some of the fabric in the pants (upon closer inspection, I don't think this will affect that area)

3) trying to take some stuffing out of the boot

4) figure out if there is a way to undo the JB Weld at the front fo the shin and redo it not as tight at the bottom

As it stands right now, I made the joint at the bottom, near the ankle as small as I could.

 

Any suggestions on what might be best, with that in mind?

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

2 hours ago, Mal86 said:

I'll look at adding the velcro to the front to hold it in place.  When you say the boot spat, do you mean the cover pieces or something else?

I don't think I I can widem the shin at the ankle any more without either: 

1) widening the part

2) trying to reduce some of the fabric in the pants (upon closer inspection, I don't think this will affect that area)

3) trying to take some stuffing out of the boot

4) figure out if there is a way to undo the JB Weld at the front fo the shin and redo it not as tight at the bottom

As it stands right now, I made the joint at the bottom, near the ankle as small as I could.

I had to add a few inches to my shins as my calves are larger than most people.  As a result, I may not be the best help with this.

Widening the part will be a big undertaking and I don’t think you can remove the JB weld without risking breaking the fibreglass and ruining the shin.  
 

The boot stuffing may be your best bet if there is no room to take in the lower legs on the undersuit.  My undersuit fit like a pair of pants and I tightened up the legs to make them skin tight. I actually need to turn them inside out to get them off. This helped reduce the amount of material I had to add to my shin a fair bit.

The Velcro on the bottom to hold it in place sounds like it would be the best place to start as it is easy and can be reversed.  Maybe try the shins on with a bit of a gap in the back (Velcro closure not pulled snug) first and see if it fixes the issue. 

[Mal86]

From today's lessons learned:

While JB Weld says that one way to remove it is to heat it 600F, it should be noted that the fiberglass softens and cracks at the temperature too.

No real damage done (some minor cracks I'll need to clean up when finishing them).

 

I'm thinking of slightly trimming the bottom of the shin where it goes over the boot, to make it a little lower.  I might also add a foam pad in the front of the shin.  The issue with my knee is that the curve of the piece pushes it in to the bottom of my knee.  However, there is enough of an opening that if I put something in the front of the shin, it won't even make contact with my knee.  

I'm cautiously optimistic that the little bit of trimmer at the bottom, plus Chaos' recommendation to velcro the shin in place will give me enough of a gap that it'll fix the knee issue.

[Mal86]

Thank you to @DoggyDoc for sharing the tusk STLs in the pictures below.

Are the proportions appropriate?  The seem a little closer in than the reference images, but it could just be the angle.

 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

I think it looks good. 

[Mal86]

Progress:

Glued the tab back on to the boot, but it came off when taking the shins on and off...

 

Added velco to hold corners of boot covers down:

I think I fixed my shin hitting my knee issue with some foam (but I still want to velcro it to the front of the boots, given the fact that they still twist:

 

Opened up the grill in my helmet:

 

Not pictured:

- drilled holes to connect arm impellers to forearm

- Sanded down a good bit of JB Weld from various joints

- Opened up the back piece to fully allow shoulder straps to go through

- tested Plastidipping Shoulder straps (Chaos' suggestion) to get the right finish (looked good)

- Patched the hole I accidentally drilled in the back plate

- Adjusted the velcro on the shins to provide a better fit

- trimmed a little bit off the front of the shins

 

How does everyone finish the armor?  Do you sand everything smooth, then go over everything with bondo and a spatula to fill in any small gaps/indents?  Is there a better way?  (not here yet, but just trying to plan a few steps ahead)

Also, what supplies are recommended for the hardhat version of the helment?

Thanks...

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

7 hours ago, Mal86 said:

Progress:

Glued the tab back on to the boot, but it came off when taking the shins on and off...

Suggestion for the tabs and you can do this to both of them. On the bottom end of the broken tab, dip it or paint it with some type of epoxy resin to about 1/8-1/4". You are basically reinforcing the leather at the end.

Now for both boots: using a leather punch or small drill bit, put two small holes side by side thru the tab and thru the back of the boot padding. Then get some type of black heavy duty cord (make sure its a small diameter to fit thru the holes you made) https://www.amazon.com/Tenn-Well-Rattail-Bracelets-Necklaces/dp/B08PZ2VDPM/

Push the ends thru each hole into the inside of the boot and tie it off tight. This will give you additional support for the tabs and it will not effect basic approval and if you go for Level 2, I will support overlooking the additional stitch. 

 

Added velco to hold corners of boot covers down:

Great modification I support people doing this 100% as one of my pet peeves is boot covers that make people look like a duck

I think I fixed my shin hitting my knee issue with some foam (but I still want to velcro it to the front of the boots, given the fact that they still twist:

Adding the velcro definitely keeps the shins from rotating

 

Opened up the grill in my helmet:

Make sure you put in the correct style steel screen and back it with some type of black material (I used landscaping fabric as it is "breathable" and doesn't muffle the sound from UKSWRATH's helmet sound system speakers

 

Not pictured:

- drilled holes to connect arm impellers to forearm

- Sanded down a good bit of JB Weld from various joints

- Opened up the back piece to fully allow shoulder straps to go through

- tested Plastidipping Shoulder straps (Chaos' suggestion) to get the right finish (looked good)

Glad you used my suggestion. One tip though, if you find it peeling off due to "wear and tear" next time you plastidip them (if you didn't already) rough of the surface pretty good with 80 grit. 

- Patched the hole I accidentally drilled in the back plate

Ha Ha Ha .... been there, done that, and got the T-shirt 

- Adjusted the velcro on the shins to provide a better fit

- trimmed a little bit off the front of the shins

 

How does everyone finish the armor?  Do you sand everything smooth, then go over everything with bondo and a spatula to fill in any small gaps/indents?  Is there a better way?  (not here yet, but just trying to plan a few steps ahead)

There are so many ways to skin this cat, but bottom line the smoother the surface you are painting the better the finished product will look. Some people have actually did all the filling and sanding and had an auto body shop paint the pieces and then polish them out (I am seriously thinking about auto paint for my Dark Trooper when I get it finished)

Also, what supplies are recommended for the hardhat version of the helmet?

I actually went to my local Lowes, bought a hard hat with a liner that has the nape assembly across the back, cut out the attachment points on the helmet and epoxied (Plasti-weld) them to the inside of my helmet. The nape support helps with wobble.

Thanks...

Anytime! Your build is progressing nicely! If you haven't considered it (you may have said already) I would build your kit to Level 2 standards, get your basic approval, and then apply thru the Spec Ops Specialist process for Level 2.

 

[Mal86]

Does anyone know if you need this mounting system: https://www.opleprops.com/en/mounting-systems-visors-fan-systems-rankbars/1413-mounting-system-for-visors-or-lenses.html

to install these lenses (or if it makes it easier, etc.): https://www.opleprops.com/en/lenses-visor-lense-star-wars-cosplay-4/325-OPLE-Props-Deathtrooper-Rogue-one-bulbed-lense-Anovos-Trooper-Helmetlense-Lense-Costume-Helmet-Cosplay-Krennic-death-trooper-rog.html

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

7 hours ago, Mal86 said:

Does anyone know if you need this mounting system: https://www.opleprops.com/en/mounting-systems-visors-fan-systems-rankbars/1413-mounting-system-for-visors-or-lenses.html

to install these lenses (or if it makes it easier, etc.): https://www.opleprops.com/en/lenses-visor-lense-star-wars-cosplay-4/325-OPLE-Props-Deathtrooper-Rogue-one-bulbed-lense-Anovos-Trooper-Helmetlense-Lense-Costume-Helmet-Cosplay-Krennic-death-trooper-rog.html

I bought the same lenses and did not get the mounting system.  Had I seen it, I likely would have bought it as they are not easy to install since they are glass and you can’t drill holes in them.  I ended up designing and printing clips to hold the lens in place with screws anchored to the helmet with JB weld. 

[Mal86]

18 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

I bought the same lenses and did not get the mounting system.  Had I seen it, I likely would have bought it as they are not easy to install since they are glass and you can’t drill holes in them.  I ended up designing and printing clips to hold the lens in place with screws anchored to the helmet with JB weld. 

Thanks! I ordered both.

[Mal86]

Sniper Knee Piece: On Jim's kit there is barely any surface area that makes contact to adhere.  What solutions do people use for this?  Do you fill it in with something to have more surface area or somehow reshape it to curve?

 

[Mal86]

Looking at it more, it looks like I could cut the curve of the thigh in to the sniper knee piece to have it fit.

Any thoughts/feedback are appreciated as always.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

That is what I did to mine, I used a 4 inch sanding wheel and "slowly" ground out a curved area. However, before I did that I took some 2 part epoxy and leveled out the backside of the sniper knee to give me more material to work with and strengthen the outside prongs.