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Tomorrow is the big day for me! I am heading to an armor party for a suit up and to get help taking my pictures for approval. Got a checklist of everything I need and inventoried all of my stuff. I should be good to go! My next post should be the pictures I submitted for approval, and hopefully I hear back soon/quickly!

I've sent for approval! Cheers and thanks to all that helped out in this WIP thread! @RAIDER @IcyTrooper @Chaos @Blackwatch @Dropkick

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

Face fully assembled and looking lovely! Filler primer on the dome is drying now.

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

APPROVED! TX-17241! Now to do all of the fun access stuff on all of the forums.

Rob, you are in luck! If you have a 3D printer or access to one, you can use these files for all your pouches: 1 Updated Belt pouch covers 150x75x8.stl Belt box and or fillers 150x87x60.st Chestrig LEFT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig RIGHT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

Okay…so my bucket is…complete. Unfortunately the paint job didn’t turn out quite as good as I had hoped, and as I was finishing the final details and assembly, made a couple blemishes, but my hope is I can fix it in weathering. Anyway here are some shots of the “clean” bucket.

I’m using this for the trim on my bucket. Use the longer side on the inside of the helmet and the shorter side sits perfectly around the edge.

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

once i am painting, i will post it up, want to ensure its valid and viable

just an update for everyone, i am knee deep in printing all the pieces, my pants and my shirt have arrived. Its coming together quite nicely, i am almost at painting stage for my kit as well I ended up going the automotive route with the paint, so would it be something people want for me to post up the formula for the white colur i use? that way, no matter where people are in the world, an auto store can mix it up as paint for them. i think most auto stores can mix them into spray cans as well, even thogh i prefer the air brush route

I cant verify anywhere that the red and blue lights were ever actually turned on, i cant see them in the dark lit scenes. Do we have anything that shows them working? id like to include it but like all lights we need to see them working, like on Vader or Fett. Lets call this change log 2.0 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tannish or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor.

I've had this build happening for 2+ years, and I'm trying to wrap it up. I also have a Shadow Trooper that is 90% done, just need to do the strapping. I'm trying to get these teo done and out of the way so I can get R1TK started and have room in my work shop for when my Vader parts start arriving.

Got around to painting the grooves on the backpack today. @Chaos, how did I do on the weathered silver? I also noted as I was checking the color scheme chart that my pill on the chest was still gloss black so I repainted that with some flat black.

For your audio, are you looking for a pre-built solution, or are you willing to go homemade? If you're willing to go homemade, Adafruit has a sound FX board that can be pre-loaded with phrases and then triggered via 10 different pins. Each pin can support up to 10 different audio files that will play sequentially (first press first sound, second press second sound, etc.). They have a model that has a standard stereo jack output and another that has a small 2W amplifier built in.

Done the easy part of printing all the bits. Just the endless sanding to do.now

My pauldron came in! I just need to get together with some others to do a final suit up and take pictures. I am ready to go! One thing I did notice on my pauldron is that is should be good for basic, but I don't know that it's good enough for Level 2. There seems to be some extra stitch lines on the 4th stitch starting from the leather on both sides, the leather doesn't have the black banding (not sure what to call it) on the outside of the collar (only the inside), and the leather parts are on top of instead of on the bottom. Someone else feel free to correct me though. I may provide comments back to the seller to help them improve their product if people agree with my assessment.

Thank you for the files!!!

Going to call this one done 🙂 AGM base with 90% I'd say made from CNC's Ally - so quite happy with my first attempt at a "hero" weapon

Hey @lonnolan, Can you PM me your email address & IOC forums username? I can ask the IOC DL to look at your questions. Thanks

If you haven't already, join this Facebook group and post your issue there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/iocofficersmess It's a frequent enough issue I see posted, so you should get help pretty quick.

Here are the V2 macrobinoculars printed at .2mm layer height. They look great! Any scratches or artifacts you see are just from the supports, I didn't do a perfect job. It has an inner and outer lip so you should be able to trim clear plastic and glue it on as a lens easy. Just let me know if you want this one and I can ship it out with the comlink.

I did a test print of the comlink - the V2 version was okay, but I adjusted a few things for V3 and reuploaded. It's available for free at the same link as before on Thingiverse. I'll print out the macros tonight, it would've been a 29 hour print with a .2mm nozzle so I've got to swap it to .4mm. I'm not going to do this costume but wanted to make sure the files print well, so if anyone is doing this costume you can shoot me a PM and I can send you the test print for V2 if you cover shipping. It's Bambu silk PLA filament on .2mm nozzle at like .14 layer height with 5% infill.

This is the appearance of the flat black rubber seal around the inside edge of an Anovos helmet, it matches the size and appearance of the screen used helmet's rubber seal. Since there is no basic approval requirement for the rubber seal and its only referenced as an L2 requirement your GML will probably approve it without a seal. However, if a rubber seal is on a helmet, your GML may require that it at least looks accurate. Any seal that is approximately 15-20mm across the flat area will work. So make sure that what ever you put around the edge looks like the Anovos seal, especially if you are thinking of an L2 approval. This seal material I know meets the requirement. I get that the CRL doesn't give specific measurements, but this sentence "Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GMLs and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume." adds another layer to any L2 determination. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Channel-Length-Protector-1-5-2mm/dp/B0C2HMP9MK/

1 can of Duplicolor, but I ended up buying 2 cans of 2K Clearcoat because I messed up and had to redo it, which required sanding it off. I just chalked it up to a learning experience.

I tried another variation of the helmet bolts but I don't think my FDM 3D printed can do it justice, so I reached out to Imperial Surplus to get a set of the accurate bolts. For the boots, I added notches where the tread occurred on the boots, please let me know what you think (I'll clean up the grey overpaint soon): I also got a better suit up, I think it's looking pretty much there. I can do the belt and cod a little bit higher and the boxes a little bit wider next time.

Anything that would mount the TD to the belt would work. Paul's mount might need to be modified so that the mount itself sits flush against the curvature of the DT TD. Just don't use zip-ties wrapped around the TD 😄

The blue and red rectangles on the com-pad are made of a translucent material. As I mentioned before they were intended to light up but last minute they were not illuminated for the show. But they are still transparent not a solid red or blue. Here is an image of it with the lights on.

Decided to take a gamble on their BOGO combo. I used the contact form on the site to ask about current time frame, and got an actual reply from Trevor within a few minutes saying 8-10 weeks. That seemed to be an “ok” sign. Also, the price was already reduced, and was able to get an additional 20% off for the Labor Day sale. So my total was $452 with free delivery. Even if it’s 12 weeks, I doubt I’ll be anywhere near finished my armor by that time.

Im ok with that. After spending the money on getting a new holster JUST for Del Id ike to have a E11 to carry as well as the DLT since we see him in game with the E11 a lot of the time. next are boots. Im making my suggested edits here: Boots Calf high black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material and may have tread or no tread. visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed with boot material as to not be visible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots stop just below wearers knees. Shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the wearers knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap. Boots are not shiny, they have a matte appearance.

@DarthBerry Very nice! This is gonna look great once the fit is situated. Looking back at your helmet pic…I would suggest looking into a different helmet bolt. Here is a pic of a more accurate “concave” look (the one you have is too thick I think and the concave area is more like a hole rather than a subtle slope).

I am still waiting, the owner did sent me a reply on a progression that he had family matter which resulted in a delay. He sent me the pictures but wasn’t able to see the, so will request for it again. Hopefully it will be sent to me by this months… then just have to wait to get the helmet and the armor…

Any update on your order? Looking at the same BOGO option myself.

Congratulations Dan!

You're building plenty of black armor these days! I just checked a recent buildthread on Pathfinders and they used the same clips you linked and it looks really good once they bent it. I'm just a RotJ Scout and working on a new SpecOps scout CRL so I'm not an expert on Shadow, but that looks good to me.

Got my E-22 Blaster in for this from Imperial Arms, big delay in the shipping due to a family issue on their end, but love the quality from what i can see: https://flic.kr/p/2rovhF2 https://flic.kr/p/2rovhER https://flic.kr/p/2rowsMW https://flic.kr/p/2rowsN2 And weird how half of them posted as normal links and the other half as the actual pictures

Hi Fernando Welcome to the spec opf forum. Can you also head over to the Spec Ops recruits section and make a post there, so we make sure you are set up with the correct permissions. The coat is an original desing, and doesnt share much in common at all with a BDU coat. And i have a LOT of BDU coats leftove from my service days. I dont know of a pattern for it, and people have been making them from scratch. I know Sheev's Emporium has posted all their research on their FB page, and JimTripon JImmiroqui and KeepTrooping are offering them for sale. I would be inclined to say its pretty simple but I know its not, because in all our research on it, there are features that are blended from othe military blouses over time. The coat hoooks on the sides to hold the belt, the mandarin collar, the cut of the sleeves, its a custom job. You COULD start with a simple jacket patttttern like farm chore coat or even a long sleeve shirt pattern and work ack from that, keepiing in mind the overlap similar to a BDU coat, the blouses featured a back yoke which is easy to see on the green uniforms. You can take a look at a very early sketch a tailor worked out in a post on this page .

No disrespect Kevin but I feel unless a claim can be substantiated with evidence so we can all discuss it I don't think it's fair to be put on the table. Just sets precedent for anyone to come in and say "oh yeah I know a guy and he said this". Not that I don't believe you but I think there's some sort of middle ground we can meet at to ensure we're getting as close to what's visible on screen. Maybe we can drop the cotton webbing but keep the colour note as it's very clear that it's a different colour than the armour. Maybe a level 2 requirement? Keen to know your thoughts.

Some minor updates. Saw Keeptrooping's killers were back in stock, and lucky me on a slight discount. Went ahead and ordered them, so that's boots dealt with. Got my sound glove from Hyperspace Props. Was a little naive to think the pretty bulky electronics could fit in my vambrace, as I tried it in my TK and it didn't fit. Will be sending it back and going with their customizable option to keep the electronics in the chestplate. Does anyone know what sort of space i'm looking at in the chest plate itself for speakers and batteries and such?

Files should be available anytime now from mcm. If they are as good as their deathtrooper 3d files then should be all good

yes we are still waiting. my day here is pretty doggone crazy and ive been offline for a week. can someone round up the proposals and consolidate them in the next post? we ahve been all over the place since 2023 on this, and we need focus.

Here's a 360 view.

Next small steps as the sanding and painting of the other armor parts are ongoing. Worked a bit on the chest/back armor connection brackets from Paul's Shoretrooper. Used the following approach: Pre-drilled a hole on the back armor shoulder for one Chicago screw on each side that goes through the bracket and gets fixated from the inside. In order to eliminate the need to glue to keep it in position, I decided to use velcro, which should keep it in place alongside the Chicago screw. Installed snaps on the front side of the bracket through velcro to create the anchoring point for the chest armor. The velcro is glued with E6000. Covered the underside of the front bracket with self-adhesive velvet fabric to not only hide the aluminum bracket, but also create a softer surface. Next step it to connect the chest armor to test it out in order to determine if further trimming is needed. Photos: Chicago screw attached to back armor shoulder for bracket mounting: Gluing velcro, installing snaps for chest armor attachment: