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Hi Guys, Ive spent the past few weeks designing the moulds for the ISB. Theyre also available as files however Ive converted these parts into Vac forming moulds. Ill be posting progress here. First are the renders. If there is anything that catches your eye that should be changed please let me know. Ive done my best to extrapolate some stuff from blurry screen caps from Andor as well as get other info from similar parts like the mud trooper from other media. CC welcome. If anyone wants the files they can be found HERE.

Just got my Triple 0 approved and met Anthony Daniels Saturday in it

Here is what we are looking at for the chest armor then: Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. Light to moderate weathering consistent with reference images is permitted. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro, or another hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and are painted gunmetal or dark silver. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is white. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Moderate weathering consistent with reference images is required.

White belt is done.

thanks Sebastion and that proves a point I was going to make. Ive given model kit demonstrations on weatheirng to appear under studio lights. Models for movies like Star WArs and Battlestar Galactica was SUPER weathered just to show up on filmstock. Tarrif's white armor proves this. I feel that "Light to moderate weathering consistant with reference images is permitted" would be appropriate for L1 while "Moderate weathering consistant with reference images is required" Ive seen guys use those brownish paint marker sponge things and just dab it all over and the armor looks like a cheetah.

First pulls:

So Variant elements: No suspenders. (defining element) Does not have the two front angled pouches other IATs have on their belt. (defining element) Wears cap, not helmet. Code cylinder may or may not be present. Belt would have at least two smaller pouches per side. in several shots there seems to also be a low slung pouch on the left-side rear. I would assume these would be minimum requirements, with other pouches allowed like the other variants. The ones helping the general have rectangles drawn above the left chest pocket; some sort of identifier, either as a medic or a rank bar? Optional TK Belt and E-11. I have the required items for this variant and can pose for CRL pics if it would help. I'd love to get feedback and see these three things included in the CRL. Thanks for your time and attention!

before moving on to any other discussion, i want to clear and lock this text. Once this is agreed upon , we will move forward. final text proposal. Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. Chest armor is painted gloss white to match visual references. Light to moderate weathering consistent with reference images is permitted. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro, or another hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and are painted gunmetal or dark silver. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is white. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Moderate weathering consistent with reference images is required. Back armor Back plate is painted to match the chest armor, shin and arm armor. Back plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. There are 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cut out/greeblie. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside, all painted the same white as the armor. The vents at the top of the boxes may have the openings darkened with weathering. Four raised bars approximately .375" (10mm) long aligned to the top of the recessed box opening may be present. Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside that are painted to match the recessed box color. Light weathering is preferred inside of the recesses. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recesses. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are white and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The hose fittings are angled forward. There is a raised step on the bottom of the main back box. There is a recessed hole approximately .31" (7.8mm) above the top left corner of the left recessed box. There are two indented squares approximately 1⁄4" x 1⁄4" (5mm x 5mm) aligned vertically above the right upper corner of the left recessed box.

Upgraded abdominal armor and lower back armor.

Chest / back is now done and with the pauldrons and biceps attached. Had a lovely time hitting them with a brick to get some good distressed damage to them so the weathering takes better 🙂

Held together using elastic strapping, and attached to the boot using both magnets and a stirrup. The rivets are purely cosmetic. I might change that when my plastic sabatons arrive but for now that's how it is.

I just did a test fitting (no kama yet) and let me tell you about weathering. You probably need some minor degree of weathering to make certain parts pop out. I don't think it should 100% clean. The actual tactical squad should probably have moderate weathering. What looks moderately weathered up close can look lightly (or not at all) weathered from 10 feet away in certain lighting.

Test fitting complete. Still need to figure out the skirts / kama.

We've had a request to amend the CRL for the Imperial Army Trooper. I will keep this topic open until the end of the month, when it will be closed and discussed by Staff. Currently CRLs are not being updated due to ongoing maintenance and overhaul issues with the Legion CRL system, so we can discuss, but also have to wait our turn for publising anything. Please see this topic so we do not re-cover ground already discussed. Reference photos Reference Photos

Aluminum alloy upgrade

Here is one round of bondo and sanding, gonna give it a touch up in some rough areas add the remaining hardware and then start slinging paint. Need to figure out what kind of sling is used after that.

Had so printer issues but they have been resolved. Here is my left boots armor.

I see what you mean now. I still think its being kept of the main body by some struts, we can see those here But I think you're right that the top barrel is still using its mount hardware on a picatinny. This is what I think we are seeing, and I hate it as a way to mount a scope. Here's my mock up. Pink being the picatinny in question, right side pink is a more printed friendly version I'll likely use.

Working on the attachment point for the scopes looks like a strut attaching near the middle or upper middle of portion attaching the scopes together. I'm going to be using two struts. I wasn't able to catch a shot that shows more than one but given the thickness of them even made of metal I don't think one would be secure. As far as it attaching to the body of the blaster we can see a rail mounted to the side in line with the take down pins. I'll go ahead work on these next.

Hi Raymond. I am not an expert on the Shadow trooper but am very familiar with the original trilogy stormtroopers. The male snaps in the photo are not part of the CRL but are used to hold the belt in place on the abdomen armor. They are not seen, nor are they required but I think almost every one uses this method to attach the belt. For the Thigh armor, the rivets used to attach the thigh ammo belt are usually split rivets with a cap size around 5/16 inch or 8 mm similar to these https://www.abbeyengland.com/bifurcated-rivet-nickel-plated-12-3-16-7-9-gauge-g04701 https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/split-rivets-bifurcated-rivets?srsltid=AfmBOooqXMY4LTpmaMbAm1SzdHwSU5fJxMZgQTJst9u_iMRrp9i5lNM6 For the holster connection to the belt, they are usually pop rivets but can be snaps or chicago screws or even the double cap rivets you have shown above. These would be similar to what was used on the CRL model https://www.amazon.com/ISPINNER-100pcs-Aluminum-Blind-Rivets/dp/B08KXJ969Y/ref=sr_1_7?crid=12NETAZBYCVTM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MgjFJAJYXFRF8tA45YieA49uDkCshp_ck6CAsBRBGBXmc71SUJt3EQXZfcqacnUsls_YQZAqjOV7EDVoBN7dwxFyToZFS33AZYTKIxYCoN74WaZOlpTkGoyce89w4x5f0fZvZWIDGrGulGQfTGH_kiDkOQBOPIFNldUEj_dhBXKsor6DRep2E6__WXeHacXCJ9ZdLm492vJmoJe6bq4ozGGRCqbICHmYuBEjJMDQrI0.eh_XeMAPlI116ZuEAcNiY0AeNoDTEjDMxqkDufQh1HY&dib_tag=se&keywords=7%2Bmm%2Bpop%2Brivet&qid=1750771805&sprefix=7mm%2Bpop%2Brivet%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-7&th=1 Hope this helps

Will do, I'm going to suit up again this weekend in Albuquerque for Duke City Con. Hoping up get a bunch there

Make sure to get loads of images at troops, & post them in your recon dragons so we can use them for our social feeds.

Not so much a build at this point in time, I’ve cleared V1, will be going on to do V2 here soon as well as working on my goggles for the mina rau variant. Strange to be joining the ranks I helped create.

Thank you Here's a comparison between the Inferno Helmet and the Rogue One Tie Pilot Helmet. You can see that the molds are totally different. The Inferno Helmet is also smaller as the Rogue One Helmet. The teeth sections are different and the Vocoder of the Rogue One Helmet is vacformed but for the Infernos it has to be a separate piece. The Trident and the sideburns looks different too. And on the back view you can see that the Mohawk Strip on the Inferno is not as wide as on the Rogue One Helmet.

I agree with the gallery, but this guy is far away from the camera, so a little hard to see any specific weathering: It'd be safe to allow for no weather or light to moderate weathering. Weathering is a very easy thing to mess up for people, it has to be done right. I feel like a requirement could prove to be an issue at a basic level (being overdone and we then have a burnt trooper that gets approved). My thoughts on that.

Looks fantastic!

agreed. We shall proceed with the belief that these were reused from Season 1 without mofification. Change log 1.0 (Final text proposal) Tunic A long-sleeved, black jacket that falls just to mid-thigh, with no visible zippers or buttons. Fabric is a plain weave cotton similar to duck canvas. Has a high mandarin style collar with a left-over-right closure that rises from the front of the tunic. The front closure overlaps left over right and rises from the hem at the bottom of the tunic to the top of the collar. Four rectangular pockets are present on the jacket front, covered by large flapped closures. Lower pockets are larger than the ones on the upper chest. Lower pocket seams rest on the same seam as the end of the tunic The rear of the jacket has a horizontal seam present near the upper back. Two vertical seams start below the horizontal upper back seam moving down the bottom of the jacket. Two black tunic hooks to hold the belt in place are permitted. If used, the hooks will pass from the inside of the tunic to the outside through holes on either side of the tunic at the hip. The belt covers the holes. One pocket is present on each arm of the jacket, each covered by large flapped closures. The top of the arm pocket flaps are in line with the top edge of the chest pockets. Cuffs on the sleeves are about mid-distance to the elbow. The material folds back on itself to form the cuff. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The front jacket flap will have rectangular stitch marks with a stitched X inside where Velcro is attached to keep the flap closed. Fabric has the appearance of waxed canvas or oilskin fabric. If left arm rank bars are present, the black fabric should be similar to duvetyn type of fabric and will have 3 equidistant horizontal stitch lines through each rank bar.

Costume Name: Imperial Death Trooper Helmet: - Jintaprops web site - www.jintaprops.com, Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/share/16Ri6TC1Qz/, email – 363276386@qq.com Armor: - Jintaprops web site - www.jintaprops.com, Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/share/16Ri6TC1Qz/, email – 363276386@qq.com Belt: - Jintaprops web site - www.jintaprops.com, Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/share/16Ri6TC1Qz/, email – 363276386@qq.com

Now that I look further into it, I think the IST one is probably better. There is a lot of verbiage from the Meero on that references pants, etc. We'd have to cut that back anyways and it'd most likely end up close to the IST one. @Blackwatch if possible, can you add the bullets going forward? That will keep the stuff in the direction we want when we get down to some other items that have extra levels of detail. I think this text is good for going forward: Hat Fabric matches the tunic and pants. Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76.2mm) down, decorated with (5), (6), (7) or (8) concentric stitches. An Imperial Code Disk is positioned in the center of the front vertical “flap”. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Disks do not feature a notch or groove details.

Jim uses flexible fibreglass for his armour parts, which is just as easy to work with as ABS. It's a good bit thicker & as the name says, quite flexable, which is very handy. There's also little or no prep work, other than a light sanding to remove any dust prior to the primer coat. From memory, I gave the armour 1 coat of primer & two coats of paint with 1 or two coats of varnish, with a little light sanding btween coats.

Hey there @Jonesy Great choice of armour build by the way. I have sourced both soft & armour parts (including the helmet from Jim & I'm very happy with what I got. I've cleared version 1 & 2 & will be getting images taken as soon as I can for the version 3 with the helmet.

Firstly, thanks. I was in love with this kit since we saw it in the teaser trailer. Its been a joy to be one the leading edge of making this. And yeah, I went aluminum bar for my struts so I could drill it without a press and bend it without having to use a blowtorch. I'll be looking into combining what we've cobbled together into a single file, as the MP 40 I used is far more complex than it needs to be for this build, and so I can model everything I've been drilling into it.

Sounds good to me! I had to take a break from here for a little bit, had a lot going on outside of the 501st. The next month is going go be a whirlwind for me 🤪

back on again. still awaiting on armor i get too impatient sometimes lol. unfortunate new as my printers are down after printing my mcm E11D in PETG and i decided to switch up the helmet to mcm designs. i sent the files off to get printed in resin so hopefully in the next two weeks my helmet should be at my doorstep. it was gonna be easier to finish and paint and put together and i have my paints on the way as well. i might buy a fully finished SE14R just deciding who to pick it up from. other news i have my belt, pouches, gloves, holster, even a metal buckle and aluminum wrist mounts. oh as well as my 2 printed belt boxes once again thanks to doggydoc

Small update! The white leather blank has arrived and I put the groves into it. It’s going to be a nice belt!

Small additions to the gun to try and match the blurry screengrabs. Replacement Stock Cover: 1" Nuts bought off Amazon with a 3d printed larger screw sitting in the middle - one for either side. Repainted Body release catch: Pops out as silver on the pics so just removed and repainted. Also the grooves that are normally above this on various shots are no longer there so look to have been filled in to distance it slightly more from the base weapon. Scope Mount: Knowing this was a complete custom part it tried out my VERY basic design skills to make one to fit older, vintage 20mm tubed scope. If the sizing is about right we'll need 28-32cm long scope so this fits nicely with scopes used on other blasters like the Original Model 7 4x20 - ones on order so as soon as it arrives I'll test fit it, the one in the pic is a cheap plastic one.

Good call Jarred thanks for posting that! Ill make that change. So, without rewriting all the text, a simple removal and change here and on the chest and back armor text will suffice: Chest Plate: Chest shall be painted gloss white to match helmet and back armor. Back Plate: Back plate is painted to match the chest, armor and helmet arms and shin armor.

Greeting all! Excited to get started on this Shadow Trooper build. Please bear with me, as this is my first full armor build. I received this Walt’s Trooper Factory kit from a fellow 501st member and have been doing a little trimming and a lot of reading in preparation. I’ll get some photos loaded up when I get back home. Any advice, tips, tricks to make this process go smoothly would be appreciated. Leave any comments here, or PM me if you would prefer. Thanks in advance, (photos will be posted up as soon as I have some decent images worthy enough to share). from the shadows we come forth for the Empire! 31911 Mat

Bei den Gelenken ist es genauso, habe aus allen drei Vorgaben für mein Kostüm die praktischste Variante gewählt. https://imgur.com/a/g7KYfPz

agreed. I believe we can rapidly move through those sections. Boots appear to be the same as well. The next piece in CRL order is the chest armor. We know the origin, there are minor differences to be discussed. We need to verify that the back box insets are the same as the security trooper when we get to the back armor, but this is only for the chest. Proposal colors Modified text New text Removed text Chest Armor Change log 1.0 Original text. We know the color is whilte so Im just going to go ahead and make that change now. Reference photo from our Security Trooper CRL gallery for reference against our white troopers. Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro, or another hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and match the armor color. and are painted gunmetal or dark silver. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is black white. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Buckles may have silver paint chipping showing gunmetal underneath the silver. Discussion: over on Kevin Wiers's Imperial Surplus IG account he commented that this seaon he noted that new fittings were being used on the buckles, thes are Martin Baker ejection seat buckles and a different part number was used for some of the buckle components. Those with sharper eyes than mine can dive into the particulars on these fittings, but for my money, if you have the rigth configuration thats great for L1. I know @BigJasoni had remixed some buckles at one point for the MudtrooperUK files and I had printed those back then.

I'd suggest any hook detail be limited to L2 as its not seen in the series. Good to know from the BTS images that there's one there, but would recommend a possible L2 addition.

Hooks appear to be present, as per slide 5 on here: https://www.instagram.com/p/DJquT1zoekb/?img_index=5 (It's pretty small, and due to the compression barely visible, but yeah, you can make out a hook on the right side of the picture) Similarly, you can see the fabric texture pretty well on slides 1+2

I'd say just another version of this to include the riot helmet version. The riot shield would probably follow the weapons clause and be optional.

https://imgur.com/a/Nnc8rIr https://imgur.com/a/d46AIlW https://imgur.com/a/lB5v07O Hmm ich glaub einige links funktionieren nicht

Wenn wir das durch bekommen und es so abgenommen wird, egal in welcher Form die Gelenke oder Dichtungen ( welches für mich beides zusammen gehört) dargestellt werden, bin ich der letzte der Einwände hat. Gruß Andreas

Yes, the text above mirrors the text for the earlier hats already described in other CRLs, so they will largely be able to be used interchangeably. And yes, the hat will certainly not be essential for all versions of this costume. There are a lot of part being swapped in and out, including the hat(s), goggles and tactical vests. For now we'll just work on getting each of those parts well described, and then we can finalise how exactly the CRL will be presented. We could go with a single CRL with a lot of "Optional" pieces, or a multi-part CRL using different "versions" as per the IAT and IST CRLs.

I think an issue might be that hats always look different on people. It could be the same hat but because it's on a different person's head it is appearing different. I like the imperial hat description (i think you took from Meero's) because of the detail. It gives approximate dimensions which i like. Either work though.

I 100% agree on sanding. I had to do this for areas of my shadow stormtrooper years ago. Obviously, if it's been painted, then you'd need to strip that and see how the plastic, but since I was working with black ABS, sanding worked great. You want to sanding pads that essentially run up to like 12000 grit. Others may have recommendations for where to start, meaning you don't have to start at the lowest grit necessarily and work your way up. You may be able to start in the middle. What I would do is find a spot that you can sand the inside of the armor or a spare piece and go through stepping up the grit until you get to that gloss finish. I will also wax mine periodically with Maguire's. Worst case scenario is you can go the paint route in the end, but it can be tough to get it even. I had an auto body shop do a different set of armor pieces to get it right.

Aloha, I figured I'd start a thread to post my files for your guys' use and for any feedback on them. For some background, I'm currently XO of the Pacific Outpost and do structural engineering for a job. I'm also working on a Forest Trooper here on the Spec Ops board, but CAD is easier than painting for me. I had printed most of the obvious parts of the ISB kit after seeing the trailer, but after seeing the Tactical Agents in action in Andor, I decided I'll stick to being Vader, but I like the kit and wanted to help out. 😂 I'm not an expert in CAD and don't mean to make these files perfect, just a solid first attempt that you can print for free. You should expect to need some customizing in your slicer software and or/post-processing to make these ideal for you. I'll revise the pieces if anyone has detailed requests or I can make new pieces if they are simple. Forearms (minus flashlight): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7049441 Back Belt Buckle: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7050492 Toes / Boots: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7050487