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Did we confirm it is the Merr Sonn Power 5? Is it on an IOC CRL presently that you could link? We are going to be adding the Version 3 helmet option soon. @Dropkick will need to model it, I think we may have gotten the pics but we have to check them out again. I know that we have the text for it prepped. There is a Legion web team CRL backend system transition going on at the moment, so updates to CRLs are sort of in stasis at the moment until that is finalized.

Hello, just seeing this. I know I'm late, but I have both a completed MonCal helmet and a second hand Anovos helmet. The Anovos one looks glossier and has some extra painted details, but I feel the MonCal is better built and sturdier. As an additional difference, the Anovos comes with mirrored stunt lenses that I couldn't get with my MonCal built helmet. I'm still working on a MonCal Shadow Trooper armor kit for approval. Going to do Shadow Trooper and Battlefront Shadow Trooper, so I'll be using both helmets with differences as required by CRLs of course.

oh yeah totally get that but wherever it goes im gonna make it lol

i said bolt it, orderd new stuff and ive already got the webbing sewed on, leather inhand, and im making the pouches tomorrow.

Superb work so far, this is looking great! As far as the paint scheme goes, I personally love that you've extrapolated a bit of a camo scheme for it, and I think that is going to simultaneously be the biggest challenge and the biggest achievement. I would agree with David that an airbrush would give you a lot more control over the process if you have access to one, but it can still be done with sponges if not. The key is to water the paint down nicely like you did with the knees. You want to be essentially glazing the paint on one thin layer at a time to create a smoother gradient between the colours, and just get it looking a bit more subtle. Also, while you definitely still want some of that base tan showing through, I think that some of the parts need more of a green hue to match the reference pictures. The helmet is a good example. Again I'd suggest glazing would be a decent approach. Get your green paint *extremely* watered down and sponge it on almost all over the surface to apply a green glaze/tint. You can repeat the process as many times as necessary until you feel that you're close to where you want that to be. Better to take that approach than to go in heavy handed with the green and risk ruining all the great work already done. The exact same method would also be useful for smoothing out colour gradients. If you've gone on too heavy with the dark brown in any areas for example, dab on some thinned down green over the entire area. You'll find it helps tie the colours in together and create a much smoother effect. Maybe just pick one of the smaller armour pieces and work on that until you're happy with it? Drop back in here for feedback if you need it, and once that one piece is finalised you can try and match the process to the rest to create a nice consistent finish.

it may be something we misinterpreted looking at screenshots. We partly used the shore as a basis since parts are the same.

@DarthBerry I think this looks much better and at the very least is on the right track. I appreciate you taking the critique and looking for a way to improve upon it. Well done! Let me ping some of the DCA team to see if we can some more feedback before you press on. Thanks!

I gave my least favorite part (the knees) a make over based on your recommendation. I watered down the sponging to give it a less splotchy look and I really like how it came it out. Please let me know what you think and I can give the other smaller pieces a go. New: Game: Old:

Die Frage des Konsens stelle ich mir auch gerade. Ich werde meinen Darktrooper jetzt weiter nach der Hot Toys Puppe weiter zusammen bauen. Eventuelle Abweichung können dann später diskutiert werden, und gegebenen falls bei Bedarf geändert werden.

AND as much as we love this, its up to the LMO to see where this costume goes

Gonna talk to Jim sometime next week after paying bills about an undersuit and then after I come back from wondercon end of March I will place the order from 850 about the abs armor. Will be ordering new gloves soon from Endor finders and slowly order my belt parts!!

Plastic Arms Dealer sells the belt material and metal buckle. He no longer produces any of the armor portions. https://plasticarmsdealer.com/shop/24450541/death-trooper-parts The two small square boxes are the boxes that are attached to the belt and located at the wearer's hips. Gerald @DoggyDoc may have made his own 3D file, check with him.

The digital repair of the chest and back armor has been completed.

The fifth version of the helmet mold has been completed and is ready for production. I hope it can be successful this time 😄

A lot of the same vendors who do regular stormtrooper kits have helmets, if you have the black paint to match the armor. Anovos (second hand, eBay) Denuo Novo (US) Walt's Trooper Factory (US) Authentic Props (AP, Canada) RS Prop Masters (UK) RWA Creations (UK) RT-Mod (Canada) Armor Master (AM, US) MTK now sold by Imperial Surplus (US)

Some more updates to make. First up will be the biceps, and thanks to @minimo I can see what the CRL means by the hooks must face outward (away from the body) Next thing to do with them is weather the green one, and add the yellow stripes on the red one. When the GML for my Garrison had a look at the goggles and respirator he noticed some print lines that needed filling. I got to work on the goggles and respirator (photos of that to come later), now I'm at the stage to paint the goggles. The CRL requests the frames be an aged chrome, any recommended paints for that? One of the scarfs I looked at was offered to me at a better price, so I bit the bullet and bought it, just need to see if it was correct or not? For reference my foot is a size UK12 or US13 I've been working on an E-10 to accompany the kit, I think it's a Sean Fields model, I'm not sure I asked someone in my Garrison who makes and sells 3D prints to print it. What I noticed was the muzzle doesn't recess itself into the barrel. Will it matter if it's stuck on the barrel, or does it need to be recessed in? And finally, whilst at a convention I looked at a Shoretroopers back plate and noticed the indent in the backplate isn't a groove like I thought it was. Using a rotary tool I've carved out the excess, and will use fillers to smooth it out again. Not sure how much more progress I'll be able to make since I'm going on an lengthy holiday to Australia for 4 weeks in April.

Sure a lot of us have seen the trailer now and wondered who these lot are. See elements of army , mud , shore trooper , death armguards so questions are.. who are they and where is it gonna go?

agree. This is a small scale figure with very few real details present. I see this as a departure from Del, or a stepping stone TO Del.

I can certainly see the reasoning behind this. apparently there is/was one vendor for the aluminum parts. I have messaged this vendor, but as we know single source vendors have real lives and things happen. I do appreciate how the change in text refers to alumimum being ACCEPTABLE but not Required. I could resin print the parts and paint them in the typical scale plastic model buiildng Natural Metal Finish process which is a form of metal effect. its a lot of work but will appear metallic, much more so than just paint. edit--someting just occurred to me My suit came with velcro to mount the patches, which are vinyl and vinyl patches are a known issue to peel. Will velcro be disallowed for L1 or L2? I dont want to write verbiage that velcro IS allowed, like we see on military uniforms, but I want to clarify if it will not be cleared for L2.

This section of the forum is to develop two separate CRLs: "Inferno Squad - Imperial Special Forces" From the Star Wars Shatterpoint tabletop game artwork and 3D sculpts, depicting generic "Inferno Squad" style troopers with red markings. "Imperial Special Forces" From the Star Wars Legion tabletop game artwork and 3D sculpts, depicting troopers similar in appearance to "Inferno Squad", but with black and white markings replacing the red of Inferno troopers.

SUBMISSION PROGRESS: NOT SUBMITTED Hello spec ops! After a few years of searching to get everything together, I have an almost complete Del kit. Future posts will follow up on exactly what I have and what I need. I also have an approved Iden and previously had a Hask before trading the bandolier and have since ordered a replacement. Anyway, here's what I've got so far. Helmet: NEEDS REPLACING, looking at Intergalactic supply. (PENDING) Balaclava: Amazon (HAVE) Flightsuit: Wampa Wear (HAVE) Compad: Wampa Wear/Philo props. (Trying to get the philo one to fit, but it's a little small.) (HAVE) Gloves: Wampa Wear (HAVE) Armor: Jinta Props (HAVE) Vest: Jim Tripon (HAVE) Mp-40 Pouches: Ebay UK (HAVE) Officer belt: Wampa Wear (HAVE) Scout belt: Intergalactic Supply (PENDING) Scout Pouches: Mon Cal (HAVE) Thermal Detonator: Intergalactic Supply (PENDING) Holster: Darman's Props (HAVE) Boots: Keep Trooping (PENDING) (Ordered new ones that fit closer to the CRL text) I plan to make individual posts further on for each item. Currently I'm struggling on how to mount the Mp-40 pouches and scout pouches. The back flap of the scout pouches isn't sewn into the rest of the pouch so I might look into that for securing it to the belt. We also have a Del in our garrison I think I can reach out to for help. If anyone here has pics of how those are mounted on their kits that would be extremely helpful.

@SirCalcium This is not a screen grab, but it’s a close representation:

Much better from what I can! @tipperaryred has some good info for painting in there.

this line bugs me, its mirrored in both Iden and in Hask. ::snippage:: On the left bicep below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. There is a piece of nylon strapping leather or leather-like material sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. ::snippage:: What is view direction? Other CRLs match this as well and I honestly dont know what this is supposed to mean. I concur with the proposed changes. If a purchaser needs to remove, or ask a maker not to install a elastic waistband, so be it.

very good questions Paul as we know Sunber builders will need the same. Ill start a new back end search as well.

agree with balaclava text, no changes recommended. regarding the suit, for basic approval a canvas suit such as that made by Wampa should be approvable. That said, the Wampa suit has a elastic waistband in the back that will wrinkle and fold/ scrunch the fabric quite easily . Our local Iden has this suit. While it IS canvas, it is lightweight canvas. When I ordered my heavy canvas suit from Jim Tripon I asked him to leave the elastic off the back. I find that it has no bearing on how the suit wears, and frankly my Tripon suit is so stiff it will almost stand up in the corner on its own. Would it be prudent to state that elastic in the back of the waistband is not allowed for L2 since we know the effect the elastic gives?

This is the agreed upon finalized text for the Del Meeko upgrade. This is NOT the discussion topic, only the final text. All CRL update discussion will take place in the discussion topic. Helmet The Inferno Squad helmet is modelled with reference to the 3D model specific to Battlefront II game. The Rogue One TIE Pilot style helmet is allowed for Basic Approval when requirements outlined below are incorporated. Original Trilogy TIE Pilot style helmets are not permitted. There are no screws visible on the helmet. Lenses are bubble or flat, are red in color, and must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. Translucent or mirrored red lenses are acceptable. The front trident area is shorter than a traditional pilot helmet. There is a rectangular indentation on top of the mohawk above the trident. There is one retaining clip greeblie in the left side trident indentation. A Nissan retaining clip is most accurate. The top of the mohawk outside of the raised triangle is painted a dark gun metal color down to the inside edge of the helmet opening. There is a pill box just above the back bottom edge of the mohawk. The pill box is the same black color as the helmet and does not need to be functional. Spaces between the teeth are cut out and backed with a dark gray or silver mesh material. The teeth and vocoder are painted flat black. Oxygen mask connectors are molded into the helmet just in front of the ear caps above the cheek tubes on both sides of the helmet. There are Imperial disc greeblies without notches on each ear cap. There are two painted or decal logos on the forehead of the helmet. The Inferno Squad logo on the right side and an Imperial cog on the left side. Logo and Cog are equivalent in size, and shall be approximately 2.15" to 2.75" (54-69mm) for approval. There is a red painted or red decal area on the ram’s horn on the right side of the helmet. There is a red painted or red decal area on the right cheek tube. There are molded greeblies painted silver inside the hose ports that cover the openings. Helmet may have light weathering/ staining. Silver is not permitted. A balaclava must be worn when helmet is worn. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Helmet is strictly made with reference to the game's 3D model and correctly sized/scaled to the wearer. Hose connectors are made from machined aluminium. The vocoder is it's own separate greeblie with distinct tubes, not bumps molded into the helmet. Imperial Cog and Inferno Squad logo will be approximately 2.15" to 2.25" (54-57mm), scaled to wearer's helmet size. Lenses are backed with round-holed mesh/screen. Lenses are bubble type.

Just jumping in to say, thanks for the suggestion and we'll note that overbelt one, but we are systematically tackling the items line by line in order of the CRL. It helps keep from hopping all over the place and making it realllllly busy.

Updated E11-B

Initially as practise building props I built a R1 style e11 as also seen on screen during " the eye " so may as well add the pics eh. Should mention has since had the "bolt" painted silver Also realised that I have no weathering pics so will get and add them

I think that sounds good for the Hand & Finger Armor text: Hand & Finger Armor Hand armor and fingers are gloss black except where annotated. May be separate from or attached to the gloves. The hand & finger armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The hand armor consists of two distinct pieces; a base piece and hand plate. The base piece which sits over the back of the hand is slightly curved across the back of the hand. May have an outside (pinky) edge which is angled down and wrapped around to the palm. May have an inside (thumb) edge which is shorter beginning just aft of the thumb joint and wrapped to the palm. The handplate is flat and elongated with eight sides. There is a square notch in the fingers end of the hand plate. There are six raised elongated rectangles along the outside edge. There is a raised pentagon on the back edge near the wrist. Raised details are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Fingers are armored in 2-3 rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, with the fingertips ending in contoured trapezoids. There may be small circles on the fingertip pads. The joints between the pieces are segmented to allow movement and have a circle detail resembling a mechanical joint. Mechanical pieces may be present giving the appearance of the finger pieces being attached to the hand base piece. The palms may have flat armor plates attached to the glove’s palm.

The details of the armor back have been completed, and the vacuum detonator has been completed. The production of vacuum armor has begun.

Actually, the CRL is quite specific on all the color schemes. Here is the link. https://databank.501st.com/databank/CRL_Gallery:Imp_Death_Trooper

Power 5 completed and ready , holster also.

I was curious as to how many approved Imperial Security Troopers there are currently. This list could help newcomers reach out and ask questions about the costume. I am totally open to helping newcomers with it. 1. Pyro-WTX Squad 2. Wompet - Nickel City Squad

2. Wompet - Nickel City Squad

Sorry for the delay - I had to dig my secondhand Walt's kit out of the WIP bins. The greeblies have been attached on mine (separate pieces, not part of the vacuum-form). The guy that I bought the kit from didn't mention having to source any parts, so I'm guessing that the greeblies were included along with the printed inserts for the back. [img]https://i.imgur.com/nv8YcVr.jpeg[/img]

@DarthBerry Cod looks much better. Regarding the helmet decals, just to be sure you're looking at the correct draft...the finalized text reads this for Level 2: Details are the correct color and placed as shown. I think specifying as black is fine but there isn't any mention of gray...the "placed as shown" would direct to the CRL photos which should have the black regardless to match the reference images. This would leave the boots...I would like to see a side profile of what you're using for the base boot to make sure that's going to work before you get to far into re-doing them please. And then lastly, the DCA team has looked at your build so far and, to be transparent, the camo paint method using a sponge is being discussed. My personal imput...there are parts where the camo looks pretty good...and then other parts where you can tell it was sponged on. When looking at the reference images, I personally feel possibly airbrush would be a better way to match...with some subtle "splotches" (mostly on the chest)...but generally speaking it isn't that "splotchy" imo. I think you are spot on in that this isn't a camo style like the Kashyyk Clone...so you're definitely on the right track. Possibly other DCAs can chime in, but that's my 2 cents fwiw.

Thanks, @dewannawangahas kindly shared some images

Unfortunately, my Scout Boots were awful and need some major rework so I put the project on hold for a week. Today was just a trial to see how things look together so no Balaclava/gloves/detonator/shoes(lol) but things are looking pretty good. Once the boots are done, I'll do another suit up correctly. I know I blend right into the tree behind me, but trust me, I'm in the photos.

This is a composite ribbed fabric with a thickness of 5mm. I added Velcro to it and it perfectly blends with the leg armor.

Since my approval years ago I see that the CRL changed and update the TU for the helmet. I searched around and found the WTF was able to provide one for me...but it's awful. The quality of the resin case was very bad and the scale seemed off compared to the CRL photos.... So I've modeled my own for 3d printing and I'm giving the files away. If you spot any glaring inaccuracies, I'm willing to try to fix it or share the fusion source. Merry Christmas! nocjef TX66667 IATCommUnit.3mf

These are the attachments of the thighs, and their performance is also good.

Some molds are ready, I will conduct some vacuum tests tomorrow. This is a comparison between the old mold and the new mold.

The arm mold has been completed and is currently being produced.

I'd be okay with that.

I completed the design of the shoulder armor mold today. I reduced the concave part of the mold by 2mm twice, which is the thickness of the ABS board. This way, I can obtain a relatively accurate groove width.

Have you checked with Mon Cal?

Just starting to piece together an imperial trooper and this was is turning out to be very useful/informative since it doesn't seem like anyone else has done anything like this on here since you posted yours 4 years ago! thank you EDIT: I will definitely try to post updated sources while building mine tho

This will be a thread for discussion of the Imperial Security Troopers as seen in Andor on Ferrix. This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet - Version 1 Goggles - Version 1 Hat Tunic Chest Armor Back Armor Shoulder Armor Bicep Armor Gloves Belt Trousers Shin Armor Boots Baton Baton Holster (REMOVED TEXT DUE TO NO MODEL PIECE) E-11 Blaster Zap Rod ----------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------ Description: Imperial Security Trooper Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars: Andor (TV Series) The Imperial Army stationed its black-clad Security Troopers on Ferrix to maintain order in the streets. During this time, a civil uprising endangered the peace the Empire sought to maintain. Special Notes: The armor parts are painted black (unless otherwise noted), and made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. Helmet - Version 1 An open-faced, flared helmet which consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. A telemetry unit is attached to the right side of the dome and is aligned with the rim. The telemetry unit consists of a rectangle box with detailing that should match the reference image. The telemetry unit is black. The lower end of the telemetry unit sits out from the helmet to allow the goggle elastic to feed underneath. A raised lip covers the edge of the helmet rim. The lip may be either molded in place, or added as a black trim. Trim shall not exceed 3/8" (10mm). Metal/silver Imperial code disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. The helmet is to be painted black to match the armor. The helmet has a black chin cup with grey webbing strap. The strap has a snap connecting to a shorter segment mounted to the left side of the helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The trim on the helmet rim is a black trim added to the helmet. The helmet has a 3" (76.5mm) web suspension with foam around the perimeter. Imperial Code Disks do not feature a notch or groove details. The chin cup is similar to a Rawlings athletic chin cup. Goggles - Version 1 Goggles shall have an aged chrome or silver frame with detail painting and weathering to match reference image. Goggles shall have a trim around metallic frame. Trim shall be rubber or foam. The goggle strap mounts directly to the rubber or foam trim. Goggles have a green tinted lens featuring two flat panels on each side. Goggle strap features two sizes of elastic. The thinner elastic strap attaches directly to the goggles and is sewn to the larger strap, which forms the main goggle strap. The goggle strap features a number of buckles: There are metallic buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 1" (25.4mm) elastic is threaded. A large buckle greeblie on the back side through which the 1.5" (40mm) elastic is threaded. This greeblie features a square inset into the buckle matching the helmet color. A black 1.5" (40mm) triglide is permitted on the right side of the buckle at the rear of the helmet. Goggles are worn just above the brim of the helmet. Goggles and strap may be permanently mounted to the helmet, with the telemetry unit mounted directly atop the goggle strap. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Serrated 1" (25mm) silver slide buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 1" (25mm) elastic is threaded. Goggle straps are approximately 1" (25mm) and 1.5" (40mm). 1” (25.4mm) elastic is used to attach serrated buckle to goggles. Goggles and strap are permanently mounted to the helmet. Goggle strap has the Telemetry Unit mounted directly to it on the right side of the helmet. Hat Fabric matches the tunic and pants. Base of the hat is conical with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76.2mm) down, decorated with (5),(6),(7) or (8) concentric stitches. An Imperial code Disk is positioned in the center of the vertical "flap". OPTIONAL level two certification ( If applicable): Disk does not feature notch or groove details. Tunic A long-sleeved, black jacket that falls just to mid-thigh, with no visible zippers or buttons. Fabric is a plain weave cotton similar to duck canvas. Has a high mandarin style collar with a left-over-right closure that rises from the front of the tunic. The front closure overlaps left over right and rises from the hem at the bottom of the tunic to the top of the collar. Four rectangular pockets are present on the jacket front, covered by large flapped closures. Lower pockets are larger than the ones on the upper chest. Lower pocket seams rest on the same seam as the end of the tunic The rear of the jacket has a horizontal seam present near the upper back. Two vertical seams start below the horizontal upper back seam moving down the bottom of the jacket. Two black tunic hooks to hold the belt in place are permitted. If used, the hooks will pass from the inside of the tunic to the outside through holes on either side of the tunic at the hip. The belt covers the holes. One pocket is present on each arm of the jacket, each covered by large flapped closures. The top of the arm pocket flaps are in line with the top edge of the chest pockets. Cuffs on the sleeves are about mid-distance to the elbow. The material folds back on itself to form the cuff. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The front jacket flap will have rectangular stitch marks with a stitched X inside where Velcro is attached to keep the flap closed. Fabric has the appearance of waxed canvas or oilskin fabric. If left arm rank bars are present, the black fabric should be similar to duvetyn type of fabric and will have 3 equidistant horizontal stitch lines through each rank bar. Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro or other hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and match the armor color. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is black. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Buckles may have silver paint chipping showing gunmetal underneath the silver. Back Armor Back plate is painted to match the chest armor and helmet. The back plate to box should appear seamless. Back plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. The collar stands 1' to 1.5" (25.4mm to 38.1mm) tall Chest and back plate meet at the sides. The front overlaps the back plate. The back plate dips below the back horizontal edge to meet the dip of the front armor plate. There are 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cut out/greeblie. The hose connectors are angled forward. There is a 1" (25.4mm) recessed circle on top of and to the wearer's right of the right hose connector. The upper half of the back has two large cut out recesses. Each recess has eight symmetrical rectangular vent details and various greeblies inside. Four raised bars approximately 0.375" (9.5mm) long aligned to the top of the recessed box opening may be present. Each recess has different and specific set of greeblies inside that are painted to match the the rest of the armor. Left side recess has a rectangle shape greeblie with an angled right side end with five panels. The first left panel has a tube on top that runs up the left side and across the top of the recess. On the right side a heat sink is fitted. A heatsink modeled from a MSI DDR Chipset 1.5" x 1.5" (38mm x 38mm) heatsink is most accurate. Right side recess has a long thin strip with 17 teeth, extending from the left edge to approximately 5/16" to 3/8" (10mm to 14mm) from the right edge. This is located directly below the double row of rectangular vents. Below it is a rectangle shape greeblie consisting of two parts. The left part is flat, the center is three rows of 7 oblong depressions and the right part features a hose connector greeblie. The left side has a raised "vent" in which the far left 1/3 is flat, followed by a thin line recess and 7X3 rows of oblong-shaped indents. The right side has a circular type hose connector. There are 5 tapered vents on the lower sides of the backpack. These vents are present on the left and right. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is an oblong greeblie centered below the two large recesses. The greeblie is approximately 1/8" to 3/16" (3.175mm to 4.76mm) tall and 1.25" (30mm) long. There is a small 1/4" (6.35 mm) diameter) raised circular greeblie centered approximately 7/8" (22.2mm) below the oblong greeblie. The bottom of the circular greeblie is in line with the top of the small rectangular cutout on the lower left side of the backpack. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are black and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. Moderate weathering to depict the Rix Road incident is permitted and must match reference images. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is a recessed hole approximately .31" (7.8mm) above the top left corner of the left recessed box. There are two indented squares approximately 1/4" x 1/4" (6.35mm x 6.35mm) aligned vertically above the right upper corner of the left recessed box. There is a stepped ledge at the bottom of the main back box. Shoulder Armor Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted to match the armor and helmet. Shoulders are mounted to the shoulder strap via a 1" (25.4mm) up to 2" (50.8mm) webbing strap. Bicep Armor For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. The bicep may appear "open" or split as seen on screen. Cover strips will appear on the front and back, covering joints if present. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip inset into the top of the bevel. Cover strips may be as deep as 1/2" (12.7mm) and up to 7/8" (23.5mm) in width, beveled on all four sides. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Biceps are a two piece design with the halves held together with hidden flexible cord and shall remain flexible. Gloves Black gloves made of smooth leather or leather-like material. Gloves shall have all logos removed. There is no decorative stitching on the gloves. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall have a U-shaped adjustment at the wrist. Dents brand gloves or accurate replica of Dents gloves. Belt Belt is construction from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width; up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 1/2" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" tall x 2" wide, x 1" thick (76.2mm x 50.8mm x 25.4mm). The belt may feature up to four additional boxes for a total of six boxes, placed equidistant around the belt in screen accurate positions. Boxes shall be painted gunmetal or olive grey. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" tall x 1.75" wide x 1" thick (63.5mm x 44.5mm x 25.4mm). Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box. Trousers Black pants matching the tunic and hat in color, type and weave. There are no visible pockets. Trousers feature a long reinforcement panel on the front of the leg from mid thigh to below the knee. This panel is double row stitched. It does not extend to the side seams of the trouser leg. Shin Armor The shin plates (greaves) attach directly to the front of the wearer's shin using two flexible rubber straps that thread through the back of the greaves. Each strap affixes on the outer edge of the boot via a cam style buckle. The rubber straps are ribbed and equal in size. Straps extend from each buckle and the inner side of the greaves. A "T" shaped knee plate is affixed to both greaves that may appear to angle slightly away from the knee. The "T" shaped plate features a slightly curved rectangle feature that follows the upper edge. The rectangle is raised. Two triangular prism-shaped ‘knuckles’ are evident beneath the "T" shaped knee plate. The top and bottom facets are longer than the side facets. The greaves feature vertical indents and recessed rectangles that should match the reference image. The bottom of the greaves angle outward to follow the curvature of the boot/foot. Shins are painted to match the armor and should be weathered to match the boots. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shin buckle shape is different than the shoulder buckles. The rear lever bar is shorter with a more distinct curve. Rubber straps are approximately 1.5"(38.1mm) wide. The shin armor is weathered with a gray shade similar to Pantone 433u. Boots Boot rises to no higher than mid-shin, and is leather or a leather-like material. There are no laces, decorative stitches, embellishments or buckles on the instep. A single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot may be present. The buckle is no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Strap adjustment buckle is dingy gunmetal color, or dingy gray. It shall not be shiny/chrome. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable as long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by a vinyl or leather strip, it is painted black. For basic approval the soles may feature a more aggressive tread. German Bundesmarine Navy Sea Boots (or authentic replica) are most canon. Boots may be weathered with a light brown color simulating wear on Ferrix. OPTIONAL Level two certification (If applicable): Boots are made of leather. German Knobelbecher Bundesmarine or Knobelbecher Bundeswehr style, accurate in height and design. Sole is low-profile with no hobnails, a modest heel and modest tread. If seams are present they are at the rear only. Rectangular reinforcement stitching on the upper shaft does not have an "X" stitched into it. Boots must be weathered with a light brown color simulating wear on Ferrix. Baton Metal or metal-like tube. Approximately 12" (30.5cm) in length when collapsed. Rounded caps on each end, metallic grey or silver in color. Has grips on both ends that leave only a small gap in the middle of the baton. Grips may be made of neoprene or foam, and may be ribbed or left plain. One end of the baton may "extend" approximately 10" (25.4 cm). Baton is only present when the holster is present. Baton Holster (REMOVED TEXT DUE TO NO MODEL PIECE) Hoster is mounted to the left side of the wearer's belt. Curved holder which fits around the middle part of the baton. Baton is carried n the holster at a slight angle. Lower part is curved. Baton is retained with a leather or flexible rubber strap. E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial Troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not authorized accessory for this costume. Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster to depict the Rogue One style E-11 blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun or accurate 3d print file. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with small Eagle logo. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. Zap Rod Approximately 36" (91.4cm) in length. The base features a tip on top of a 2" (5.08mm) cylinder with two rings as seen in the reference photo. The tip and cylinder will be metal or have the appearance of being metal. The hand grip is black and extends up to a raised black ring, about 2" (5.08mm) wide going around the circumference of the zap rod. After the raised black ring there are two sets of pill shaped recessed on each side of the zap rod for a total of eight recessed areas. These recessed areas are closer to the raised black ring than the top of the zap rod near the shock prods. There is another raised black ring, about 1/2" (12.7mm) wide going around the circumference of the zap rod. The tip of the zap rod is cylindrical from the base to the tip and is roughly 4" (101.6mm) long and features a ring closest to the base and two prongs that are triangular shaped. The shock prod portion of the zap rod will be metal or have the appearance of being metal. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The base cylinder with two rings is made from metal. The shock prod portion of the zap rod is made from metal.