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  1. are we satisffied with the proposal above? id like to move on.
    4 points
  2. Hi everyone, sorry I'm not very active on the forum, but work leaves little time for Star Wars. The IST costume itself is progressing slowly. I've also prioritized the color change for the AT-AT commander's armor but, in the next days, I'll resume roughing out the IST pieces and I should receive the jacket and pants. I'll post the assembly progess as soon as I have it, while consulting the threads of those who have already made this costume, so as not to make any mistakes. (Don't mind the colors on the chest armor, I used it to experiment on the commander)
    3 points
  3. Received GML clearance , just to wait for the admin stuff to get done and then request full access Then V2 lol
    3 points
  4. gonna try my best to log everything in order. im slowly working more and more on the kit during the weekends as its my only availability right now. ive been sanding and filling this helmet the entire time. got the last round of sanding and hit it with black paint. some areas are needing to be fixed but that is completely okay. once i have all the pieces i need to be black i will hit everything with 2k gloss along with the help of a local star garrison friend. Jim notified me last night my undersuit was ready to be shipped so i paid off the rest and it is now on its way. very excited to get it done Up next. we finally, got the 850 kit in. now some things to address. i was unaware they were gonna trim some of it as a favor. at first glance i was very confused until they reached out a couple days later. not all of the pieces are PLA printed, it is all in fact resin, which means i would have to fully paint the entire armor set to match. the backplate they did do the hard part for me so i now have to clean it up entirely and fix a corner. i was missing a back side wing so i am being sent extras as we speak. the thigh connector parts were looking a little rough with the mold so i kind of left it alone for now until i work on it more. looking at it all was a bit overwhelming but yeah, i worked with what i got. Sunday was the 501st armor party. the host was great for giving advice on how to cut and trim excess materials. it took about almost 4 hours to cut everything as much as we can. next we're gonna have to clean up the rest we can with belt sander to get it all fine and trimmed and then we can glue everything together for assembly.
    3 points
  5. After emailing 850 and having to put my foot down, i finally got the shipping notice that it’s on the way. Hopefully it’ll be here next time in time for the 501st armor party I’m attending
    3 points
  6. Some fun pictures a friend snapped of me on Halloween.
    2 points
  7. Yay, I have officially been approved by my GMLs! TX-12657 reporting in! I may yet have further modifications to make for troopability so this thread shall continue. The next thing on my list is to start working on an E-11D and perhaps a DLT-19D as well. I have bought the files for all three DT blasters from MCM, and have already started printing. That's all for now.
    2 points
  8. Got to take the death trooper out for a zoo troop and see how it did. Lots of fun, and lots of things to fix. First off, the cooling vest suggestion was a life saver in tandem with some big ol’ fans in my bucket. I was actually reasonably comfortable for the troop. The first big issue though, was my ability to walk. As you can see in this picture, my leg armor is touching, no good there. That is getting further trimmed. Second, my helmet pressed on my nose which was not immediately obvious to me that it would be an issue, until of course I was light headed and out of breath. I have modified my padding so it sits higher, and furthermore does not rest on my nose at all. Still waiting for official approval from GMLs but I have plenty I can work on in the meantime time. Thanks all for the help so far!
    2 points
  9. Greetings. I'm brand new to cosplaying, but I've always wanted to build some Star Wars outfit. I naively decided to make a Death Trooper outfit. It's just black right? 😝 I bought some STLs for the helmet, armour and a E-11D Stormtrooper Blaster from GA and started printing. I'm printing the parts on a Voron 2.4 350 using ABS and a layer height of 0,12mm, so that I can reduce the layer lines a bit. So far, I've printed the top of 1/2 of the helmet and the mandible and I'm busy printing the sides and the back. I saw an interesting technique called vapour smoothing, which I want to try, but I'm willing to "Learn to Love Sanding™. Any tips, tricks or other advice will be much appreciated.
    2 points
  10. Looking good Trooper. Yes, the DT is a very warm and motion limiting armor kit. I have fans in my helmet; Additionally, I used a construction helmet liner to provide more air flow around my head. Most people complain about the range of motion in their upper legs and pinching between the thigh armor and cod piece. You can make the gap bigger between the thighs and cod piece by determining how much of a gap you need and trimming that amount off the top of the thighs. When you trim the top of the thighs, follow the shape all the way around so the appearance of the thighs shape remains the same. If you are getting binding or limited range of motion in your knee area, you can cut an additional amount off the top of the thighs and raise up the thigh armor, this will increase the knee gap enough to allow for a greater range of motion. I am not sure how your torso armor is strapped but if you are having issues turning your upper torso, a way to increase the range of motion is to have the chest and back separate from the lower back and abdomen armor strapping. This will allow your upper body to twist and the lower armor to stay in place. Issues occur with the helmet hitting the neck collar in the back when looking up. There is not much to do about that other than either making sure the collar is as close to your neck so that the helmet opening allows the collar to rise into the helmet opening. Or you can trim the neck collar's edge down some to give you more of a gap. It took me almost twelve troops and experimentation to get all my armor strapped and sized so it gives me enough freedom of movement to walk up and down stairs, climb onto parade trailers, and be able to actually sit down. Even to this day I am still tweaking mt DT set up. Shins, if clam shelled, definitely need a locking type closure. I use Velcro along the vertical split on mine and it works perfectly.
    2 points
  11. Hi Chris, We will get together to get this sorted for you. Please be patient & we will have you sorted as soon as we can arrange the meetup. Thanks
    2 points
  12. Sounds good. Thanks for your understanding.
    2 points
  13. We will working on it! Please be patient!
    2 points
  14. It is something we'll need to do on the backend via the Holocron. I'll get with @Dropkick and @BlacXabbath to show them how to do it. We were supposed to do it a month ago but my wife passed away, so Legion kind of took a back seat.
    2 points
  15. Update! I was able to repair my back plate using mold-able epoxy putty and even get back some of the lost details in the corners. It is definitely not perfect but I'm thinking it should hopefully be good enough at least for basic. Also, my assembly of the shins has seemed to work out pretty great and those are now almost done (aside from the bottom flaps). I also went and painted almost everything in gloss black, except for the thighs which I am still assembling. Almost all the bits are painted now and currently drying/curing. Then I can go in with the metallic black on the details. I will need to decant some into a bottle so I can brush on the fine details like the grooves and such. I have started getting things strapped as well. The chest plate goes together in four places with velcro at the armpits and shoulders by the collar, which I think is looking good, what do we think?
    2 points
  16. Alright, This bad boy is almost ready for a test fit. I have an event on october 18th so i hope i can make it approved in time
    2 points
  17. Any time and you're most welcome. I have a hard hat liner in my DT. It allows a lot more airflow that thick pads and makes aligning my eyes with the helmet visor easy. Here is what the inside of my helmet looks like: Here is a video on how to do it. It is using a TK helmet but the principle is the same. This was done my Trooperbay. And as I was looking for Trooperbay's video I found this one by Captain's Wookshop which he did for his DT Hope this helps.
    1 point
  18. Thank you for your very thorough response! I will look into the linked thread below and I think I'll refrain from adding any lifts in my boots to keep from being uncomfortable while trooping. I'm glad to hear that folks who are 5' like me are still intimidating haha. Oh one more question for now, do you know any of resources or information on what to add to the helmet for padding/fitting it well? Thanks.
    1 point
  19. I actually am in a garrison where I swear they have only snow troopers on the brain. I told them when a “snow troooer” was added to spec ops I would make one, and well….this is as close as I am willing to go. Plus I feel like I have a thing for all version of flames! I am almost done with an FO flametroooer and love them all! This one looks amazing and I might have to pick your brain in the future! Looking great! ❤️
    1 point
  20. You can trim that flared lip off the top of those hip boxes. Everything else looks fine
    1 point
  21. Got it. I have a PDF file template I got from you that I am followed for the detail shots. I should have all of those (minus V2 and weapon stuff) ready to go and the document is good. I was more worried about how to upload the PDF itself. I did realize in prepping all of this that I forgot my action pose. I am trooping tonight so I'll get a shot from that and upload hopefully later this weekend.
    1 point
  22. Thank you very much ! I can't wait to wear it and I'd like to see a lot of troopers with this armor ^^
    1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. Hey Dan, apologies for the delay, work has been crazy, I've been flying my ass off. For your Specialist L2 application its good that you have taken new sets of pictures. Here is what we will need by way of photos. 1. Standard set of photos for basic approval: Front: arms down - palms inward, arms up parallel to the ground - palms down Right side: arms down - palms inward, arms up parallel to the ground - palms down Back: arms down - palms inward, arms up parallel to the ground - palms down Left side: arms down - palms inward, arms up parallel to the ground - palms down Some type of action shot with a weapon or using your hands like in a fist or "force wave" 2. After you take the basic photos you will need to take photos of each of the L2 requirements that are mentioned in the CRL example, if the L2 Requirement says "There are two small notches on the outer ⅕ of each side of the canister approximately 3/4" (20mm) from the inner edge of the end caps and spaced approximately 1" to 1.25" (25-30mm) apart on the lower edge of each horizontal grooves. Refer to reference photos for specific details." then we would need a close up photo of the detail with a ruler next to the detail to verify the detail and measurements. If an L2 requirement is visible in the basic photos or in another close up, you don't have to take an up close photo. 3. If you have Microsoft Office you use Word or PowerPoint to insert all your photos and then save the file as a PDF and upload that into your Application thread. If you can't do that, then it would be best to create an account on an image storage site. Imgur is what I use. Create a post and upload all the photo to there and post the link in make it shareable in your Application Thread in the Specialist sub-forum. 4. Make sure all your photos are clear, well lit, and in at least 960 or larger resolution. Let me know if you have any issues or other questions. You can go to any of the request threads for examples.
    1 point
  25. Great job Tyler, I always enjoy seeing another Inferno kit coming together. For the armour I'd definitely recommend velcro. I tried a few other methods but nothing else was as reliable or simple as that. I epoxied the hard shoulder straps to the rear plate, then used velcro to attach the shoulder straps to the chest plate, and then more velcro to attach the side plates.
    1 point
  26. This helps me out a ton thank you!
    1 point
  27. Sure! I was a little confused figuring it out as well. Here’s the right thigh: The long side has a little detail and the short side sticks down. Left side: Long side is smooth with no detail, Short side is level at the bottom, and gets one of the little box greeblies on it. I glued all sides butting up against the front and overlapping the back based on what I could see in the CRL photos.
    1 point
  28. Armour fits a lot better. Can now get in it with the mpsb straps and buckles with loads of overlap at the side. So need to clean with degreaser and then sort out the picture hooks to secure the horn fronts , glue straps at back , then Velcro on the buckle and chest. Still a ways to go but getting there with the v2 once the above clears
    1 point
  29. For the heat, do you have fans in the helmet? That's a must. For your torso, you may have to invest in an ice vest to help keep cool. I did and it definitely helps take the edge off. I got mine from Polar Products brand and it came with 9 reusable ice packs. Depending on how hot it is and if you're inside vs outside, they can last a few hours.
    1 point
  30. @DoggyDocFor some reason, I was having some issues last night. I got it to work now.
    1 point
  31. Thank you for following up, let me know when its cleared.
    1 point
  32. lol, I'm busy watching M.M.'s Prop shop, and she just mentioned her foot sander. I'm going to try the ABS slurry post-processing first and if that fails, go through the multi-stage sanding steps. Here are the side and back pieces of the helmet.
    1 point
  33. Welcome Rudi. you have picked a great costume. Take your time and ask lots of questions. for vapour smoothing, It looks like a neat technique but from what I have seen, you will still need to sand some. I have recently seen people using Bondo/Acetone wash that is painted onto the armour. It appears to do a great job smoothing out the print lines but will affect fine detailed areas. Thankfully, the death trooper does not have a lot of fine details except for around the muzzle. I recently purchased an electric foot sander from Amazon. It is a small circular sanding disc and it makes sanding so much easier for larger areas. I look forward to following your build.
    1 point
  34. i can make that change. Sorry, had a busy weekend and didnt get back to this. I can update the finalied text with Daniels proposal.
    1 point
  35. Getting groovy! I painted all the grooves and details and started strapping the armor. I got to test fit the upper body and the shins with the flaps now glued on. I still need to affix the shoulder buckles in the front. I’m not sure yet how I will close the shins in the back. But, heres some test fit pics! Please let me know your thoughts!
    1 point
  36. I just got my vest from Jim Triipon, its his prototype new style like yours, made of heavy canvas. It also has the dropped pouches, leather, etc. Its a departure from how he used to make them and he had to send it back to his crafter a couple of times to get it right. I had him add the vertical stitches, which I feel can be an L2 item. For edification and transparency here is The original topic disucsion. There were a LOT of PMs going on between myself Anton and Maxime. They had quite the argument over the vest material and both were very stronly opinionated on its makeup. I knew absolutely noting of the character at the time, so I was going by what they were sorting out when I wrote it. Our current verbiage allows heavy canvas , here is the finished text.
    1 point
  37. Ill pm you Matt, I want to keep this topic on track. We will develop a vendor list. Theres only a couple I know of .
    1 point
  38. Mine is not showing up on my profile also. Imperial Army Trooper Andor. TK 19197. Any help would be appreciated.
    1 point
  39. Helmet bolts on! @RAIDER, do you have anymore edits you'd like to see?
    1 point
  40. Sorry been super busy at work the last few, if you still need pictures of the strapping I can get them next weekend, in other updates my armour arrived from imperial surplus so will be getting that together soon
    1 point
  41. printed in silver silk you are great for scratches to show through as they wear in
    1 point
  42. Scous are great, and trimming isnt bad. I acually use a belt sande and scribe and snap method for most of my armor, and i much prefer to buy raw untrimmed armor. Scouts are a fun build and other than the trimming all the sewing , building the boots and the helmet assembly I can do one in a long day. I paint what needs to be painted first and let that dry while Im working on the other stuff. Make sure you have your bund on hand thats going to help with your fitting. Remember, the belt is worn low on the hips, not up on your gut. Im GML here and my recent applicant kept hiking his way up on his gut like a belt to hold his pants up. start a WIP here so we can guide you,and my advice to you would be to build it to the L2 Speciast Level from the outset so you can get specialist approval here after basic approval.
    1 point
  43. I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.
    1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. Hi Fernando Welcome to the spec opf forum. Can you also head over to the Spec Ops recruits section and make a post there, so we make sure you are set up with the correct permissions. The coat is an original desing, and doesnt share much in common at all with a BDU coat. And i have a LOT of BDU coats leftove from my service days. I dont know of a pattern for it, and people have been making them from scratch. I know Sheev's Emporium has posted all their research on their FB page, and JimTripon JImmiroqui and KeepTrooping are offering them for sale. I would be inclined to say its pretty simple but I know its not, because in all our research on it, there are features that are blended from othe military blouses over time. The coat hoooks on the sides to hold the belt, the mandarin collar, the cut of the sleeves, its a custom job. You COULD start with a simple jacket patttttern like farm chore coat or even a long sleeve shirt pattern and work ack from that, keepiing in mind the overlap similar to a BDU coat, the blouses featured a back yoke which is easy to see on the green uniforms. You can take a look at a very early sketch a tailor worked out in a post on this page .
    1 point
  46. oh ok, yeah basicilly we have not got to it yet. Once Staff is ready to adress it we will start a new topic.
    1 point
  47. I just heard back from Jim on my own L2 level tac vest , its a change to how he has produced them in the past. Its looking really good and once I have it in hand I will share on my own WIP.
    1 point
  48. Aaaand tada ! New gloves arrived ! Time to get back to the project
    1 point
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