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FIrst update- Happy to report that the first plate printed without any issues! The second plate of greeblies is currently printing. Here's a look at the results: While I have my resin printer going, I also started up my P1S to print the first plate of ABS parts. here's a look at that: Im printing the ABS parts at a .28 layer height. While for PLA this would be quite high, for ABS it works just fine. It sands quite easily, and printing at a higher layer heigh will allow me to print through the pieces much faster. Im also going to do my best to accurately calculate how much money is going into this kit, as I mentioned before that it can be more cost effective than purchasing a kit. If you take a look at this image, it's saying that this plate costs $1.64. However, I recalculated it with the accurate filament price, and it nets out to $1.48.

This is a vacuum test for the thighs and buttocks. I think it looks pretty good.

Es dauert nicht mehr lange, dann sind die 100 Abschlüsse erreicht. 😉

that is very exciting that all the files have been given the green light. i will start printing them today to move on to next stage of it all

Hi Matt. I ordered a Jim Tripon undersuit as a two piece set and all the gaskets are included: elbows, knees, shoulders, neck...everything. From what I remember, his suits should be approvable to Level 2.

And approved! TX -6353 reporting for duty!!

These are today's vacuum work.

Finally got pictures taken while wearing the KeepTrooping boots, and my GML approved both the armored and unarmored versions. And at the same time, I submitted the photos of my Andor Security Trooper, so hopefully that will be approved shortly.

Since my approval years ago I see that the CRL changed and update the TU for the helmet. I searched around and found the WTF was able to provide one for me...but it's awful. The quality of the resin case was very bad and the scale seemed off compared to the CRL photos.... So I've modeled my own for 3d printing and I'm giving the files away. If you spot any glaring inaccuracies, I'm willing to try to fix it or share the fusion source. Merry Christmas! nocjef TX66667 IATCommUnit.3mf

Thank you Jef!! ok, lemme go print one of these out. Once I get my printers working. i have heads off of three of them! GRR. Parts on order......🤔

I think I'm ready to submit!

Thanks for rallying behind me, im super excited, and will likely have a lot of questions lol You helped a ton, and it was much appreciated. Thanks for following along!

I am a glutton for punishment, but that may be a step too far haha

Jesse has updated the files too, so they're a bit more forgiving than the ones you and I used, Allan. Probably not worth reprinting it though 🤔😅

Been catching up on my comic reading and ran across these troopers. Black armor w/ red highlights and a breathing apparatus pack (Vader's Magma Troopers?). They are stationed on Mustafar at his personal fortress. They aren't named, and there are more panels with them...but figured I'd drop the panels here if any are interested.

This is the front mold for the waist, which took me 9 hours to rebuild. The sudden drop in temperature caused the failure of thigh mold printing, and it needs to continue to work hard.

Can any of our 3d printer forum members help here? Perhaps @Bandage Monkey I paid a guy to print mine as I've no 3d print setup at home

Check you PMs, Alan.

New to trooping, looking to build this kit as well. Your itemized list has given me some great structure to follow for my own build. Looking forward to seeing your progress!

I continued with the abdomen, used a pvc that was a little softer, did not need heat to get it in shape without breaking. Will let it cure for a while and test the strength. If happy I will glue Velcro on the whole lengt of the pvc. Sadly, the bend was to great without heating the PVC, and was to easy to snap.

Looking good Trooper! Word of advice on Jim's shins. There will be a gap on the top front seam. Depending on how large it is you may have to fill it in. Most of us with Jim's kit have done this. I have found that if Bondo is used, overtime as the Bondo cures, it shrinks and or will separate from the shin material due to the opening/closing flexing of the shin. I used Devcon Plastic Weld to fill in the gap. Its a pain to sand smooth but it does not shrink after it has cured completely and bonds very well to the shin material.

Bucket is coming along nicely

Glued my Shins together last night. Scariest thing I’ve done so far

Ok I got the forearm info done, this should keep you busy while I finish up the shins info. Let me know if you have any questions. Slow and meticulous are the words of the day for this. Hot Water Bath Shaping.pdf

Next section. This should be a quick one: Revision 0 Lower Back Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted IAW the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Fitted centered and under the back plate and extends to below the top of the belt. The Lower Back and Abdomen side extensions, if any, may meet flush at the sides. Has a general “T” shape design with the top being flat across. Each top corner section is extended outward with the bottom edge angling and widening downward to the center section. There are two proportional horizontal recesses that may be present. The center section has a recessed area which has two raised circular ring type hose connectors positioned offset with the larger one located in the upper right corner and the smaller one located in the lower left corner. Connectors may be painted metallic black or silver. Two pistons may be present. If present, the ends must have the appearance of being attached to the lower back and extended to be hidden by the belt. Pistons shafts will be painted metallic black or silver. Lower back armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

Thanks! Today I painted the base coat and picked up the fabric dyes, paints, and natural looking sponges. I'm very excited to keep charging ahead!

First update of the day! As I said last night, today I began wet sanding the spot putty with 220 grit sand paper: I did this in the sink to prevent a mess outside In the garage. When you're doing this, you want to apply pretty consistent pressure throughout, assuring an even and level surface. The end result will look something like this: The goal is not to remove ALL of the red putty, rather to get the surface to be even and smooth. Wherever you see leftover putty, there are gouges, scratches, and holes that it has filled. If you zoom into the areas, you can see the seams, layer lines, and some swirly areas from the electric sander. I patted the helmet down with a towel, and let it air dry. Once I was satisfied, I hit the helmet with a layer of gray rustoleum primer: Once this dries fully, I will go ahead and apply more spot putty to areas that need it, as well as tackle the detail areas with a small file, to help preserve the sharp lines and detail.

The digital repair of the chest and back armor has been completed.

So sehen die Schulterstücke von der Hot Toys Puppe aus und so sehen sie auch zum größten teil in der Serie aus. https://imgur.com/a/NtXMbQh Grüße aus Deutschland

We have previously discussed the chest and back armor which has a "shoulder plate" similar to a pauldron. I named it Shoulder bell armor to align with other "shoulder bells." Below it is another section that I have named as "Bicep Armor" The onscreen suit appearance presents itself as an upper piece which overlaps a lower piece. We can name it what ever we want but I was just sticking with previous naming conventions.

I need to get with @Dropkick as he has the helmet for this one and can model it.

On the first page I have converted all text over to the proper coloration for where we are at. There were some changes for the UK to US English, as the LMOs will notify us of that. I think the base of the text is good for all of the items. Some of them could use some two/three-tier text, but I'll check that out so that it is reorganized to flow. The meat and potatoes of the text is good though. I'm not seeing anything that could be considered ambiguous.

These are the attachments of the thighs, and their performance is also good.

Second update of the day, and I've made good progress! The rest of the greeblies have finished printing, and here's the second plate: First two ABS pieces finished printing: I started the 3rd, here's the plate and the results: Here's a loose fitting of the 3 pieces: Finally, I began printing the 3rd plate, which includes half of the back: Classes finish up on Friday, so Im trying to get as much of this printed as quickly as possible, so I have a project to work on next week! Thanks for looking!

I reviewed the Lower Back Armor, nice! Lower Back Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Fitted centered and under the back plate and extends to below the top of the belt. This is to hide the body of the wearer as much as possible. Lower back armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The Lower Back Armor and Abdomen Armor side extensions, if any, may meet flush at the sides. Has a general “T” shape design with the top being flat across. Each top corner section is extended outward with the bottom edge angling and widening downward to the center section. There are two proportional horizontal recesses that may be present. The center section has a recessed area which has two raised circular ring type hose connectors positioned offset with the larger one located in the upper right corner and the smaller one located in the lower left corner. Connectors may be painted metallic black or silver. Two pistons may be present. If present, the ends must have the appearance of being attached to the lower back and extended to be hidden by the belt. Pistons shafts must be painted metallic black or silver.

"Is there a way to buff this out, or am I just going to have to sand it down with high grit sand paper again and repaint/clear coat it?" "Tis but a scratch!" 😆 As long as its only in the clear coat or paint you can buff it out with auto rubbing compound, then hit it with a polishing compound. If it's into the primer or material, it will definitely need to be wet sanded and repainted. I assume the placement looks good? I just need to secure the left most box, the leather pouch and attach the hidden 2" plastic clip on the other end to make it a functional belt. Placements look good. Good idea to wait on the rear pouch until you can put it on and position it correctly before affixing it. I can't tell you how many times I have seen DTs with their rear pouch way out of alignment.

Ok, so I tried on all the armor today for the first time. I still need to do the belt, and the cod is going to be attached to the belt, so those are not there. Also, looking at the photos I can see that I need to make sure that the ab plate sits lower and the back plate sits higher. Aside from that, does this look good? https://imgur.com/a/Fs8TqsG

Glad to see you again, @stevechewbacca! I think the gloves are looking pretty good, the cuff may be a little on the long side, but I'd like to see it with the armor fully on before that determination.

Ooops, I thought I responded to this. 🤦‍♂️ I think we may have to look at the text on that since it is confusing/misleading with the rivet talked about in the TD box part of the belt text. Should be a single rivet on each end painted black.

That looks to be in the right place to me.

Little Progress I’ve had Pneumonia for the last 4 days. This is pre wet sand and pre clear coat. Not too shabby.

I used a 2mm ABS vacuum for it, and I added a gas storage tank to my vacuum pump to enhance its power. It looks pretty good and is almost identical to the original statue. I will be working on the molds for the shoulders and waist tomorrow.

This is the mold for thigh armor and crotch mold.

Hallo Zusammen Ich werde jetzt am Wochenende damit starten, das Kostüm mir anzupassen und es unter den bis jetzigen Crl s zu gestalten. Da mein Kostüm der Hot Toys Puppe zu 100 % entspricht werden wir einige Differenzen haben, über die wir dann noch diskutieren können. Wenn ich soweit bin, werde ich Bilder einstellen. Darktrooper Grüße aus Deutschland

Which part are we still stuck on?

Got it! We used 59/60 for the version we did, however, we may be able to include this one on the simplicity and the fact that art wise it looks pretty consistent with those other issues. I'm at a work conference now, but should be back home tomorrow to see about a CRL item discussion.

good luck and I look forward to your build progrss!

Hi again troopers!! I was recently approved for my Imperial Army Trooper costume and shortly after the rank of Specialist. I love the IAT costume because it is very military, of a real soldier, but it is a costume that does not have many people and therefore there is not much information. In my case, in order to build it, the information that I was able to find in the different threads of this Detachment was essential and I would like to take this opportunity to thank all those who have created a WIP or have provided some type of information and that has served us as a great help to those of us who have tried to build it later. So it is time to give the Detachment what the Detachment has given me and I have decided to write a WIP with the history of my IAT costume in case it will help new recruits. Little by little I will write the WIP in the order that the CRL follows, because I have to translate it from the one I wrote in my Garrison's forum. So I apologize in advance for any mistakes in the English translation. Many thanks to all of you who have helped and encouraged me to achieve it.