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Hi everyone, I’m currently only on page 2 of this topic for the ISB Tactical Agent’s CRL. Someone mentioned me by name (Kevin Weir -Imperial Surplus) on page 1 about my IG comment on the Buckles being different. I was referring to the Leg Strap Buckles. They are nothing like what has previously been used on new era characters. Also for the Back Plate Armor - the top hose bibs are not hollow for Andor. Only Solo and Mando show had them hollow. Andor 1 & 2 casted them solid with just a slight recessed center - slightly raised lip. Also should there be any mention of the side connectors, that are a fixed to the lower side of back armor. They wrap around towards the front belly. A 2” elastic belly strap is used through the 2 slots on each end to hold it together. Also only Velcro was used to affix the Chest to these side connectors for the screen used suits. I'm currently getting ready for SDCC next week. I’ll have more time afterwards to assist with more detail information about these characters.

I was able to put together one of the canvas pouches as well as the (stupid) holster using the great templates made by other members here. While I was at it, I made my own template for the leather pouch and put that together as well. Other two canvas pouches are in the works now. Leather pouch template for those interested:

@DarthBerry Alright...here's an initial review of your kit at the moment based on the last set of pics: HELMET: For level 1, it looks like you have all of the details met. The only constructive critiques I'd offer here is the camo on the rear of the helmet. It looks as if it is being used to uniformly to conceal the center seam on most scout buckets. I'd like to see that broken up a bit if possible. And then the rear helmet decal lines...they look roughly put on there...those should probably be applied more cleanly. The missing Level 2 reqs if you chose to do them would be the concave helmet bolts. BALACLAVA - Present. FLIGHT SUIT (this is probably the piece where we might have to see a bit more adjustments..I'm open to hearing others opinions): The butt flap needs to be a bit longer to cover the butt. The thigh patches...to me they look positioned to far on the front of your thighs, not enough on the rear, and a bit too rounded. Due to the shape of the patch, the straps look to be further in to the thigh at the upper part of the patch. I would reference you to the standard scout CRL (as you can see the patches a bit better on the pictures they have to see the patch/strap orientation a bit better: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper or here https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Thigh_patches_and_straps.png NOTE: The L2 requirement is that the riding patches are removed entirely and the elastic straps circle the entire thigh...so I'd offer that as a solution...discreetly sewing the straps to the flight suit w/out the patches. "Stand-up collar conceals the neck with an enclosing strap to keep the collar closed." Your collar looks to have a button which would be unacceptable. Normally there is a strap that wraps over the neck and then a hidden button or velcro straps it down to the flight suit. The Scout Trooper CRL offers a good image in the reference gallery: https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Collar.png SHOULDERS: Level 1 elements appear present. Level 2 would require rounded bottom corners of the bells and then the actual measure of the straps. BICEP ARMOR - Appears to meet L1...strapping to verify for L2. FOREARM ARMOR: L1 appears met...strapping to verify for L2. Minor critique...maybe thin the weathering lines a bit in the curves. GLOVES - Meet L1 and appear to meet L2. VEST - Meets L1 and appears to meet L2. CHEST: Appears to meet L1. Would want to verify the material being used on the shoulder strap covers and material for straps under the arms connecting chest to back. For L2 would need to verify strap measures and materials. BACK: Appears to meet L1 reqs. Would want to verify the top tank greeblie is entirely black. For L2, rank stripes would need to be added to both sides of the tank. The tank top greeblie would need to be removed entirely. If a rivet at the bottom of the tank is present, it should be painted to match armor (not silver). BUND: Appears to meet most L1 and L2 reqs...I would add, the way you have your pouches situated is great. My only concern here is the codpiece...it seems too thin and we also can see the stitching at the bottom...that should wrap a bit under the crotch and not be so visible. Again, I'd reference you to the standard scout (or even Shadow Scout) CRLs to see the shape of the codpiece as well as the positioning of the curved sewn detail which seems high. BELT/DET - Appears to meet L1 and L2 reqs. Would need to verify strap measures and materials. KNEES: Appears to meet most L1 reqs. The only issue I see here...you're utilizing the upper strap but there appears to be no lower strap. The CRL says you can use 2 (implying 1 is optional), BUT if you only opt for 1...it should be the lower. See the L2 req. Also note this reference image showing the bottom strap being used only: BOOTS (this version of your boots is a big improvement): Appears to meet the L1 reqs. My only questions here: What is the color of the boot sole? What is the material used for the dog bone/toe? Everything else (blasters, neck seal) is optional and not required...so I think that covers everything. Tagging @Dropkick here so he can tag additional Scout DCAs for feedback (or critiques of my feedback) as well as @IcyTrooper and @tipperaryred since theyve been helping along the way. Getting close!

I found a legion member locally who was parting with his TX Death Trooper costume and picked it up off of him. Went to see it personally as he was local and it turned out things fit pretty well. He is a little taller than me, but overall the armor fit well enough to buy. Now I need to customize it to account for some slight fit issues. I'd like to hear from the community on ups/downs and things that don't look right. I looked over each piece and the CRL and each piece looks like it fits the bill, just need it to fit me right. On the suit up pictures, my handlers were 6 & 10 so there are things not sitting right. Some things I am already aware of and changes I need to make: 1. Helmet is missing visor (I took it out and have it off to the side). Going to need a new one that is either bubbled or has a better nose cutout as the one I have hurts the bridge of my nose. 2. Chest rig strapping is not tied around my waist, Its currently not long enough. One of the angled side pieces is also not connected. 3. Ammo pouch not installed 4. Belt wont fit as the snaps to close it are not in the right place for my waistline 5. One of the boxes on the belt isn't sitting right on the rubber belting as the opening is just a little too small. I may just trim the belt a little (or buy a new rubber strip) 6. Shoes got tore up on the top and one of the soles is coming loose. May just buy new ones. 7. On the left glove, there is a slight tear in the stitching on the index finger. Hopefully I can sew it closed 8. There are some scuffs on the paint where the armor is rubbing. I need to lookup how to fix it as this is apparently automotive paint so I don't want to just spray paint over it. 9. Need to redo the strapping on the thighs to the belt, its lets them hang a little low. 10. Need to trim up (or something) the shins. The tips of the shins dig into my ankles quite a bit. 11. need to loosen up the 12. Need to swap out the elastic on the biceps as they are a bit tight. 13. Need to tweak the velcro on the gauntlets as they are a little tight, but just a 1/4 or so makes them much more comfortable. 14. Need to hem the pants a bit as there is too much fabric at my ankles right now. 15. Need to swap out the elastic that connects the cod to the posterior as its technically too narrow.

Rob, you are in luck! If you have a 3D printer or access to one, you can use these files for all your pouches: 1 Updated Belt pouch covers 150x75x8.stl Belt box and or fillers 150x87x60.st Chestrig LEFT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig RIGHT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl

Ronald McDonald house, Defender's only troop.

le sigggh....a week later. My life gets absolutely insane. 30 hour work days are all too common. The other day I home 43 minutes before I got called right back out for antoher 12 hours. back to our subject at hand: Movign forward with this, and with no input, I propose this as Change Log 1.2 Shoulder Armor The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.Velcro is permitted to keep the shoulder armor in place. Shoulder armor is held up with a strap mounted under the shoulder bridge. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Change Log 1.1 Bicep Armor Biceps are a split design, joined in the front. A gap may be present at the back. There is a left and a right side. They are not interchangeable. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Biceps may be held to the shoulder armor with black elastic. Biceps are painted to match the armor.

Hey guys, thought I would throw out a tidbit concerning weapons and Level 2. Weapons are not required for any type of approval, but if they are included in approval photos they must meet the Level being applied for. With that being said, if you are going for Level 2 and your weapons are only Level 1, don't use them in the photos. For the L2 action shot you can point, fist bump, peace sign etc and it counts as an action photo. By the way any DT L2 approvals come my way for input.

Just found this work of art over on FB It's the MCM designs ISB agent blaster. WANT https://www.facebook.com/share/p/16oWa3czPx/?mibextid=wwXIfr

My pauldron came in! I just need to get together with some others to do a final suit up and take pictures. I am ready to go! One thing I did notice on my pauldron is that is should be good for basic, but I don't know that it's good enough for Level 2. There seems to be some extra stitch lines on the 4th stitch starting from the leather on both sides, the leather doesn't have the black banding (not sure what to call it) on the outside of the collar (only the inside), and the leather parts are on top of instead of on the bottom. Someone else feel free to correct me though. I may provide comments back to the seller to help them improve their product if people agree with my assessment.

Thank you for the files!!!

I've sent for approval! Cheers and thanks to all that helped out in this WIP thread! @RAIDER @IcyTrooper @Chaos @Blackwatch @Dropkick

Typing from my phone so no pics yet. I got my helmet through a 3d printing service and had it all printed in resin. Everything is sanded and smooth, I have to wet sand the helmet again to get rid of filler pooling and spray black on everything then I can get to work on 2k clear coat. I decided to order my blasters through imperial arms. It’s a premium version with a steel rod. still waiting on 850s armor and it raised some concerns to be I like to list -first off the back plate the backplate they changed to where it’s 2 separate parts. The base panel is all ABS while the big box itself is made of resin. I wonder why they went this direction instead of vac forming the entire thing. This means more work to sand and glue the entire box down and fill in the gap which will make it heavier - second is the thigh armor. The 2 rubber ribbed inserts are now an abs plastic instead of rubber to hold it together. It’s a weird move they went with so my alternative is to order rubber mats like Tenaz did in his build that’s pretty it with the armor from 850

Going to call this one done 🙂 AGM base with 90% I'd say made from CNC's Ally - so quite happy with my first attempt at a "hero" weapon

Will do. I wasn't going to worry about it yet, but a few days ago, Chaos gave me a nice list of items I should take a look at. I was able to fix everything else and am now waiting on my last part to come in so I figured I would tackle it. I did hate the zip ties, but they worked, so this will remove an annoyance. Let me know if you want the 3D print files and/or links to the inserts I used. If you do go this route, be very very careful on the drill bit you use. I started small and worked my way up and I didn't realize in my bit set that after a while they stop going up by 1/64" and it went up by like 1/16" and one of my holes was too wide and the insert fell to the bottom. I ended up rigging something up to make the insert "hover" in the hole and just dropped super glue in there. It holds great now, but I would have preferred to have it bite into the resin like the others. The correct drill bit size for my inserts (M3 inner, M5 outer) is 3/16". This makes it tight enough so that the insert grips the resin, but not so tight that I can't get the insert in. Used a 3/16" flat head to get the inserts 90% of the way in and then a 1/8" flat head to finish them off and recess them a bit so I could dab some super glue in the slots to hold them in place. Now that I need more stuff to do, I have been looking over the Specialist (L2) applications and seeing where people are getting dinged. I already found a few things where I know I would have issues, so I may address those while waiting on my pauldron as well. Not required for basic, but anything to get a head start works for me.

Love these ❤️

Got a number of comments from here and FB so I went ahead and made some changes today. 1. Fixed the belt issue. I used a plastic sheet to create a panel where I could put on some Velcro and adhere the belt. The sheet hangs down a bit from the ab and is clear so you don't see it even through the minor cracks between the belt and ab. For the sheet, I roamed around the craft store looking for something plastic and semi-rigid as it had to fit the contour of the ab armor. What I found was an ink blending mat. It was an 8.5"x11" clear sheet that has a decent amount of flexibility, but still very strong. I lined it up and drew where I wanted Velcro put on. Once the Velcro was holding it generally in place, I gently lifted it up and put a bunch of adhesive where it made contact with the armor (the Velcro is in the valleys). I used corn hole bags to press the adhesive in overnight. I then added the 3/4" strip of Velcro and glued it down. The plastic sheet I used apparently didn't like E-6000 on the Velcro which is why the Velcro strip fell off for the pictures above. I put some super glue on instead and that did the trick. The Velcro doesn't move anymore. 2. Next were the shoes. I had a couple things to fix here. First was adding in flaps to the top of the covers and adding some Velcro so it could adhere to the inside of my shin armor. I found some small strips of leather at the craft sore and cut it in half to get my "tongues". Considering I only learned to sew 3 days ago, it was a bit difficult getting the leather sewed onto the backs of the tops. I had to use a pretty big needle and some nylon thread, but I eventually got it. For good measure, I also sewed the Velcro to the leather tongues. Second was getting the fronts to fold down to contour the toe of the shoe. A lot of people recommended Velcro, but I didn't want to glue or sew the other pieces to the shoe and I didn't think the back of the Velcro would hold to the leather. I came up with another idea. I used metal landscaping stakes pushed into the opening in the seam at the end of the cover flap. I cut the metal to length, make sure it fit, covered it with shrink tubing (and end caps), inserted it, then bent it into shape around the toe. The metal is quite strong and easily maintains shape even when the covers are not attached. I thought it turned out quite well. 3. Biceps. It was pointed out that I was using elastic bands that were way too big on my biceps. I "borrowed" some hair ties from my wife and used those instead. My bicep armor naturally is kind of tight so I left some slack when gluing the bands in so it looks right on suit up. I don't really need these to hold the armor in place, so its just for looks. 4. Chest armor. Again, I had 2 items to take care of here. Repainting. After my successful repaint of the ab armor, I dove in and repainted the chest to get rid of the scratches that appeared at breast height. Now that I know to go light on the spray and do it when humidity is low, this one was a breeze. The left buckle under my arm also came off a week or so ago. I put it back on once the paint was dry. 5. Speaking of repainting, it was pointed out that my cylindrical greeblies on my left forearm are either supposed to be weathered silver or metallic black. Since I have no artistic skills to weather paint jobs, and spray painting is easier, I painted them the metallic black. Taking them off was irritating as the screw is really small and uses a weird drive size, but I managed. 6. Gloves. The gloves I had seemed a little tight, the inner lining had come loose from the outer, and there was a small hole in the gloves. I ordered a new pair and they arrived in just a couple of days (who knew Endor Finders was in Florida!). The new ones are definitely more my size and are fresh and crispy. I moved the hand plates over and we have new gloves! Now the only thing left is to figure out a better way to mount my thermal detonator. Its currently held in place with zip ties. Off to the forums to find a better way!

@chaos, Thank you so much for looking it over!!! I think this is a dressing issue, but I am going to try and put an internal strap on the left gauntlet to hold it in place better. When my wrist bends, the gauntlet shifts a little due to where the cutout is on the inside. Some velcro or something will hold it pretty well. I did something similar for my left gauntlet on my Fett as well. If TS-40 is acceptable here, I will probably paint them. I am laughably bad at detail type painting (or washing), and just spray painting them one color is much easier for me. Will do. I was not going to worry about this for basic, but since my pauldron is going to take a bit to get here, I will take care of this too. Took care of this last night. I sewed a leather flap to the top of the cover, then put velcro inside the shin and it holds it quite well now. I have to put all my bottom stuff on again to check that its good long term though. Right now, the zip ties are what is holding the thermal detonator on. I can try to find another method to adhere it, but not sure what to use. Can do. My wife and kids helped me dress and they weren't sure what everything was supposed to look like and I didn't notice some of it. I did just see the right forearm though and I can't believe I missed something that obvious. Can do, just need to find some long enough to cover the gap and have room to be glued in place. Eventually, yes, I would love this. I think I have some more items to fix to make sure its ready for that level of detailed look. Once I get all this fixed and have my pictures for approval, I can post those and ask you to look them over. That should have everything on this list and my list fixed and hopefully I will have some more experienced help getting me dressed so they know what to look for. Hopefully that is only a couple weeks away (just need that pesky pauldron from Europe)!

After much internal debate, I have jumped in! I have ordered the Jinta Studio's DT armor and helmet. I hope to keep everyone updated on the process as I move along. Thanks!

So cnc'd adaptor turned up and it fits perfectly. PCBway nailed the threads to so the stock just screws right in with no issues. Also thanks to a slight mod of Diet Evils 'Mag Bung' or Power pack as we'll say it is, that works brilliantly too with the addition of the larger release disc behind it. Last part to sort and get on to is the barrel. So hope to have this all wrapped up by next weekend 🙂 The AGM MP40 parts I'm putting up here: Thingiverse - Digital Designs for Physical Objects

Some more progress tonight. I don't know how I missed it but my ab armor had quite a bit of metallic paint rubbed off where it met the chest armor. As this area is partially hidden and smaller, I thought it would be a good idea to test paint this area before repainting the metallic black portion of my chest armor. Here is what the area looked like before painting. This is after the first coat...it did not look good. Second picture is the repainted part next to my test piece that I used to check the color/look before painting the armor. As you can see, it turned gray, but had no metallic look to it whatsoever. It was also blatantly obvious where the armor had rubbed off previously. I am not sure if this was a poor spray application, too thick, or too high humidity (thanks Florida), but it looked terrible. Tonight when it was a bit cooler and had lower humidity, I put on one final coat that was as thin as I could spray it. This coat turned out great. Here it is next to the chest piece and its a perfect match. I still have to repaint the chest armor, but I am going to stop painting for a bit and work on my harness system. I need something to hold my thighs better and then for the belt to attach to my ab armor, which in turn needs to be supported by something better than a couple of elastic bands. Hopefully more on that this weekend when I get my sewing machine and start permanently attaching my nylon webbing.

I figured as much, but figured I should confirm first before telling someone they're wrong. Especially if accuracy is the whole game here!

I got around to making a new belt as the old one had a bunch of snaps on it that would have been clearly visible. How did I do for placement and such? The only items screwed into place are the buckle and small boxes, all pouches and the holster can move as needed. Also, how do you keep the belt from falling down? I can't seem to keep it under the abdomen, it keeps working its way down. I thought about adding some nylon straps with buttons so it connects directly to the abdomen, but that seems like overkill. Maybe I just need to tighten it up a bit? It was slightly loose when I took these as I had to dress myself. Do you attach the codpiece to it or let that hang? I also have a TON more belt material. Thinking about cutting it to length and selling my spare cheap in case anyone else needs any.

It makes sense to say all hard pieces are gloss black unless otherwise stated. Then we can eliminate the gloss black on each section 👍 I concur with your edits. I think the thighs are next in my cue. I'll get it on here this weekend.

thanks Kevin thats comprehensive and very helpful. Im going to write it to permit the strap at L1. For the black stripe, ill add that too as an option, and the way we write it, it may go into the optional items along with blasters. When we work our way down to the shin armor, i will circle back to this and quote it . Change Log 1.1 change log 1.1 Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Webbing or velcro is permitted to keep the shoulder armor in place. Shoulder armor is may be held up with a strap mounted under the shoulder bridge. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Change Log 1.1 Bicep Armor Biceps are a split design, joined in the front. A slim gap may be present at the back. of the bicep. There is a left and a right side. They are not interchangeable. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Biceps may be held to the shoulder armor with black elastic. Biceps are painted to match the armor. and helmet.

Thank you!

Can you please request detachment access & we'll have you sorted. Details are here - https://forum.specops501st.com/forum/130-access-requests/

The original TA suit - They used black acrylic wash to age/weather all of the suits. Some more than others.

Mahalo! I got some progress done on the helmet - breaking up the linear-ness of the back of the head and redoing the stripes. This lighting is very bright in the photos but the green is now blended much better. I also took the tank topper off, patched the hole from the rivet, and reworked the black stripes for L2 goals. There's an extra photo for the shoulder bridge & chest connectors as well. L2 boot adjustment is done too, I'll get some new photos soon. Scylla (the cat) was unimpressed with all of it. ETA on the flight suit (Red Kap) is a week or two and ETA on the new bund (Cucblack) is probably a month or two. I'll be out of the country for most of August, so the timing works out pretty good. I'll take super detailed photos before I leave to allow for plenty of time for additional review. I hope by that point it's just the codpiece that needs updating. I appreciate all the great feedback, this kit is better than I ever set out for it to be!

I'll take a look this weekend. Since it looks like it is a Jim Tripon kit I know exactly what I had to modify to meet L2.

@DoggyDoc and @Chaos - thank you both for replying ( @DoggyDoc I have a close family member who has a Mac and does design work, so I can get them to help changing the file type and slightly editing the file format). Sending you both PMs for the files you each have I'll post an update here showing my blaster after I use what you guys shared with me. I'll be sure to pass along the resources to future fellow DTs as well

Fair enough. I'll hope to have a prototype done up next week, but I'll have to wait until the name tape arrives for the final pictures. I'll keep everyone in the loop!

Shoulder and Bicep proposed text with changes noted in red srikethrough, green and amber alteration change log 1.0 Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. webbing or velcro is permitted to keep the shoulder armor in place. Shoulder armor may be held up with a strap mounted under the shoulder bridge. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Change Log 1.0 Bicep Armor Biceps are a split design, joined in the front. A slim gap may be present at the back of the bicep. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet.

If you have someone who has a Silhouette cutting machine I have a file to use. When I was not working overseas I had them in my Etsy shop. I used chrome adhesive vinyl to cut the decal out. It has been on my pistol for years and has not peeled off at all. LOL someone that I gave the file to some years ago has started selling them. Kind of a dick move since I gave the file to him but it is what it is. If you want the file send me a PM and I'll send it to you.

Got my small velcro in yesterday as well as a few other things. Shins. I reduced the size of the velcro across the back from 3/4 to 1/2 to give me a little more room around the ankle as between the socks, shoes, cover, undersuit and armor, it was getting pretty tight. This helped a decent bit, but I am hoping my new socks will help more as they are a lot thinner. I also need to hem the pants up a bit as they are about 3-4 inches too long on me. Here is a front and back of me in my lower half stuff after all my updates so far. I know the right shin is misaligned in the back, but I suited up myself and will fix in the future. I am wondering if my thighs might need to be turned in a bit as the openings in the back don't really align with the natural bend of my leg. I would have to align the shins then and that may be an issue as they have almost no wiggle room. Armor. I changed out the velcro on the sides of the chest piece where it connects to the back. There was not a lot of coverage there and it kept coming loose on me so I put in 1-1/2" strips on both sides. Holds great now and sits pretty evenly on both sides. I also finished the strapping between the abdomen->cod and lower back->posterior. i think they fit my frame much better now and when the under strap is connected everything sits perfectly on my body. Shoes. I added gel insoles to help with heel comfort which helped a TON for walking around. They have always been a little tight so I will likely order a new pair when imperial boots opens their run back up next month. Kinda stinks as the ones I have are actual Dr. Martens Gauntlets. Similar to the shins, I reduced the amount of velcro on the closure to give me a little more room in the forearms. They are still a little hard to attach myself, but with some assistance I think they will be perfect. Pauldron. Got it on order and it should hopefully be here in a week or so. Next up is to try and touch up the paint where the armor rubbed it off and fit check the full upper body armor now that all the strapping has been updated.

Hi Marc I used a decal to create the circuit pattern. The trick was that it is very difficult to print silver on a decal as it just doesn't show up. The solution was to paint the area where the circuit goes in silver and print the reverse decal in black. Unfortunately I used a mac for the graphic and have since switched to PC. the file is saved in mac paint (.paint extension) format, so I can not open it to convert it to something usable. If you have a mac, I can get the graphic to you, otherwise you may need to design it or have someone do it for you.

Hey guys. the LEDs for basic approval are optional, so you can have them there or leave them out. If you will be going for level 2 approval, they need to be there and they need to work.

Hey fellow Dan! First question is who made the armor? It looks like a Jim Tripon fiberglass kit. I'll try to answer the topics I had to deal with my build: 1. If you aren't going for L2, you should be able to use a dremel and shave down the visor for a better fit. 4. The belt can be remade if you buy the rubber matting and follow the Jolly Roger's belt guide, but many people are now building them where the overlap is in front, covered by one of the two pouches on the side of the buckle. It's for easier suiting up. 6. Are these Doc Marten's or Crowprops shoes? Maybe you can take it to a shoe repair shop? Also, the ribbed flap covering the laces should go under the shin armor. Biggest advice is to start small with your updates, with what you are comfortable doing. See if your local garrison has people that can help out as well. It will give you good practice in maintaining/fixing future armor issues.

ahh I hate auto correct. it should say "smooth and rigid" thanks for the catch

I'm back Spec Ops, So right here is what I have gathered a few things from stuff I Printed with the Sean Files and now from Walter from Walts Trooper Factory(Image down Below the texts) to show what is my progress in gathering the pieces for the IST armor. Now with that being said I am sill missing a lot of stuff and not only I'm anxious but frustrated, I'm still glad I have these in my possession but hear me out. I really want to get to the assembly on the armor but I cant since now I will have to probably have to wait another half a year for Walter to mold the plastic to get everything else(I wish I was joking but the request/order began in December and they arrived this week, most of it had to be the weather and machine problems but u get where I'm coming from). Other members are either too busy or no where to be found in the forum(I ain't gonna argue on that since every one has a life and I do too) or send people messages that is simple, short or not too complicated to respond but ignore me while they seem to be active in the forums and that really pisses me off. Now thankfully I have a plan B but the problem is trying to find someone to print them for me without annoying them too much but if Walter stuff doesn't come out great I at least have the files in my possession. More updates to come soon.

looking at the bottom of the MP40 I know what the disk is and it totally escapes me right now but Ive run across those in the past. Its a found part. Not quite a poker chip, its acutally a part for something.

Yeah, so the velcro on the boots appears to be sewn AND glued to them. I took apart the cover itself layer by layer and just resewed the velcro on it closer to the outer edge. Just take your time because it is a pain in the ass. 😂 But it looks and feels a lot better now. It looks like they used 1” strips on the underside of the covers, and 1.5” or so on the boots, which seems like a weird move in my opinion. And yeah, the tongue is just some scrap leather that I cleaned up and dyed before sewing on. Just made it about a 1/4” narrower than the top of the cover. My hope is it’ll help it stay tucked in under the shins and maybe add some coverage so the front of my legs take a little less abuse from the trimmed edge.

No comment on that but lll still be the crash test dummy for some of the files I acquired so its not too complicated for any new comers.

I think you have some room to rotate the thighs in a bit. The front cover strips should line up with the ones on the shins. I had to trim a fair bit off the top of my thighs to get them to fit right. See how they fit with the torso armor in place first though.

You could try to rig up a strap between the existing ones at 90 degrees to allow the pouch to sit up but as you can see in the photo below, the position can vary personally I like it better straight up and down

Sorry Beau, I'm in that club too. Close to home, physically or emotionally, always hits harder. For Medic weapons, the comics show them using the E-11 and wearing the TK Belt, so at a base I'd say that. However I'd embrace the holstered SE-14 as it leaves the medic's hands free to do treatments, either in a standard officer holster, the flapped ones seen in the comics, or even Subner's as it is seen in the comics?

----------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE (THIS IS THE OFFICIAL TEXT FOR THE CRL DEVELOPMENT)------------ Description: Imperial Security Bureau Tactical Agent Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars: Andor (TV Series) Costume description here Special Notes: The armor parts are gloss white, or as specified in each part description, and made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. TEXT Hat Fabric matches the tunic and pants. Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76.2mm) down, decorated with (5), (6), (7) or (8) concentric stitches. An Imperial Code Disk is positioned in the center of the front vertical “flap”. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Disks do not feature a notch or groove details. Tunic A long-sleeved, black jacket that falls just to mid-thigh, with no visible zippers or buttons. Fabric is a plain weave cotton similar to duck canvas. Has a high mandarin style collar with a left-over-right closure that rises from the front of the tunic. The front closure overlaps left over right and rises from the hem at the bottom of the tunic to the top of the collar. Four rectangular pockets are present on the jacket front, covered by large flapped closures. Lower pockets are larger than the ones on the upper chest. Lower pocket seams rest on the same seam as the end of the tunic The rear of the jacket has a horizontal seam present near the upper back. Two vertical seams start below the horizontal upper back seam moving down the bottom of the jacket. Two black tunic hooks to hold the belt in place are permitted. If used, the hooks will pass from the inside of the tunic to the outside through holes on either side of the tunic at the hip. The belt covers the holes. One pocket is present on each arm of the jacket, each covered by large flapped closures. The top of the arm pocket flaps are in line with the top edge of the chest pockets. Cuffs on the sleeves are about mid-distance to the elbow. The material folds back on itself to form the cuff. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The front jacket flap will have rectangular stitch marks with a stitched X inside where Velcro is attached to keep the flap closed. Fabric has the appearance of waxed canvas or oilskin fabric. If left arm rank bars are present, the black fabric should be similar to duvetyn type of fabric and will have 3 equidistant horizontal stitch lines through each rank bar. Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. Chest armor is painted gloss white to match visual references. Light to moderate weathering consistent with reference images is permitted. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro, or another hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and are painted gunmetal or dark silver. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is white. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Moderate weathering consistent with reference images is required. Back armor Back plate is painted to match the chest armor, shin and arm armor. Back plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. There are 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cut out/greeblie. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside, all painted the same white as the armor. The vents at the top of the boxes may have the openings darkened with weathering. Four raised bars approximately .375" (10mm) long aligned to the top of the recessed box opening may be present. Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside that are painted to match the recessed box color. Light weathering is preferred inside of the recesses. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recesses. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are white and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The hose fittings are angled forward. There is a raised step on the bottom of the main back box. There is a recessed hole approximately .31" (7.8mm) above the top left corner of the left recessed box. There are two indented squares approximately 1⁄4" x 1⁄4" (5mm x 5mm) aligned vertically above the right upper corner of the left recessed box. Shoulder Armor The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Velcro is permitted to keep the shoulder armor in place. Shoulder armor is held up with a strap mounted under the shoulder bridge. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Bicep Armor Biceps are a split design, joined in the front. A gap may be present at the back. There is a left and a right side. They are not interchangeable. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Biceps may be held to the shoulder armor with black elastic. Biceps are painted to match the armor. Forearm Armor Hand Plates Gloves Upper Belt Lower Belt Hip Plates Trousers Shin armor Boots Optional parts Tac Vest Radio Blaster Goggles

I used this dust protection foil for PC Fans. https://amzn.eu/d/2jNfByY It's a bit flexible so you can lay it nicely flat over the lenses from the inside.