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just wanted to give an update, i am just awaiting the soft parts to be finished so i can get started on building the kit. i am still 100% committed to the build, just unfortunately, i suck at sewing, so have to rely on the talents of others

Excited to be part of the Detachmwnt. Imperial Army Trooper. Andor

As an update, the JB worked great, matches the black closely too! Thank you for the recommendations.

Aaaand tada ! New gloves arrived ! Time to get back to the project

Hello, just seeing this. I know I'm late, but I have both a completed MonCal helmet and a second hand Anovos helmet. The Anovos one looks glossier and has some extra painted details, but I feel the MonCal is better built and sturdier. As an additional difference, the Anovos comes with mirrored stunt lenses that I couldn't get with my MonCal built helmet. I'm still working on a MonCal Shadow Trooper armor kit for approval. Going to do Shadow Trooper and Battlefront Shadow Trooper, so I'll be using both helmets with differences as required by CRLs of course.

Absolutely no worries there! It is critical that we get this right for other members to build such an awesome costume, as well as for you to wear it proudly as the model!

And just got the kit from Jim Tripon, gonna start getting pictures and the like of it as is posting up within the next few days.

BBB Day!! pics to follow

After a bit of research I finally put some orders in. I ordered a Jinta Props DT helmet and the Hard and soft armor from Jim Tripon. Now I just gotta start my search for the smaller bits in the meantime 🙂

Thanks guys. Already had a successful find of Doc Martens Jered last night. They were listed on ebay as just Doc Martens but when I looked at the photos I saw this. They're used but in good condition.

@Beau Thacker Thanks - I really appreciate it!

Ok great news, thanks!. I will get to work on the finished product as soon as I get back from Japan.

I have emailed the guy I got mine from to see if he still does them or can do them, please give me till he replies to me. Beau

i look at STLs often for a lot of things and I have not run across that.

It’s very very interesting to see, how every piece is going together again and again. Beautiful work @stevechewbacca! Good to see your progress, please keep this thread updated!🙏🏻🤘🏼 Good Luck on the followings!

IAT Armour being boxed as of this post ready to shop.. next step BBB day.

Some more photos.

next item: Commpad. We know this is a different pad, its not the typical pad we used for years however we DO allow the standard TIE pad for level 1 approval. Are there any recommendations for changes here? Compad Rectangular communications pad with patterned painted details matching reference photo. Compad is worn with the four large, rectangular buttons pointing towards the wearer’s elbow. Compad is rectangular in shape and fits within the compad pocket window. Details of the compad differ from the standard TIE Pilot compad. Black buttons are smaller than the red and white buttons; the white button located adjacent to the button with multiple dimples may be a single piece, instead of split in two segments. Compad base color is silver, metallic grey, or weathered silver. Compad size is 2.5" x 2" (63.5mm x 50mm). Compad is fully visible above the glove, facing outward on the arm. For basic approval (Level 1) a standard TIE pilot style compad painted and worn to match game references may be accepted for use. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Compad shall be Inferno Squad style with correct button sizes, layout and colors. Two black buttons at the top of the pad are smaller than the white and red buttons. The white button adjacent to the button with holes/dimples is not split. Compad is moderately weathered / stained.

Since there is no futher discussion or input im going to lock the fabric discussion for the suit and post it to the finalized text topic.

Scarf should work. I used this paint on the goggles and subsequently weathered:

Some more updates to make. First up will be the biceps, and thanks to @minimo I can see what the CRL means by the hooks must face outward (away from the body) Next thing to do with them is weather the green one, and add the yellow stripes on the red one. When the GML for my Garrison had a look at the goggles and respirator he noticed some print lines that needed filling. I got to work on the goggles and respirator (photos of that to come later), now I'm at the stage to paint the goggles. The CRL requests the frames be an aged chrome, any recommended paints for that? One of the scarfs I looked at was offered to me at a better price, so I bit the bullet and bought it, just need to see if it was correct or not? For reference my foot is a size UK12 or US13 I've been working on an E-10 to accompany the kit, I think it's a Sean Fields model, I'm not sure I asked someone in my Garrison who makes and sells 3D prints to print it. What I noticed was the muzzle doesn't recess itself into the barrel. Will it matter if it's stuck on the barrel, or does it need to be recessed in? And finally, whilst at a convention I looked at a Shoretroopers back plate and noticed the indent in the backplate isn't a groove like I thought it was. Using a rotary tool I've carved out the excess, and will use fillers to smooth it out again. Not sure how much more progress I'll be able to make since I'm going on an lengthy holiday to Australia for 4 weeks in April.

This thread is gold and extremely helpful. Thank you all for the discussion here!

A lot of the same vendors who do regular stormtrooper kits have helmets, if you have the black paint to match the armor. Anovos (second hand, eBay) Denuo Novo (US) Walt's Trooper Factory (US) Authentic Props (AP, Canada) RS Prop Masters (UK) RWA Creations (UK) RT-Mod (Canada) Armor Master (AM, US) MTK now sold by Imperial Surplus (US)

The helmet is not included in the armor kits.

No reply on the email but i found his other social address that seems active, so I have left him a message. If he will maybe he will give STLs if he is not doing them no more, but I know he bought like 10 3D printers and such. If he contacts me, I will let you know. I will also be looking for someone that could possibly make those also. Beau

@IcyTrooper Ryan, I took a look thru the screen shots and couldn't get a good image of the cod piece. However you are correct, the Exhibition photos and the 1/6th scale Hot Toyz have a secondary piece under the front part. The front part's outer edges are turned in to the slightly wider flat plate. I'll work on the additional verbiage tomorrow. Regarding the cod to butt strap. I think it's a good idea to have it to keep the pieces tucked tight. We could say "may have an elastic strap" I know my DT needs one. It prevents hearing the proverbial "is that your cod piece? Or are you just excited to see me?" 😅🤣

I'd support that change as well. We should definitely get the liability out of it.

Yes, I’m pumped! It left Kiev, Ukraine Tuesday afternoon. It should be on a plane over the Atlantic presently, headed for Indianapolis.

Aight, that logic makes sense! I agree with that. I believe the DT guide is extremely helpful to GMLs.

I actually was thinking about a color scheme guide to standardise the metallic black and silver to align with the DT. If we use a paint code people are more likely to not use what they have sitting in the garage. Let's keep it and make a scheme.

Our next topic is the glove itself. The glove was well researched to begin with, and I propose no changes. Gauntlet Gloves Black, leather or leather-like material, enclosed fingered, non-textured, (normal leather grain/texture/lines are acceptable) fitted gauntlet style. No buckles, straps, or decorative stitching. There is a split on the bottom gauntlet portion that runs from the glove opening to the wrist that is bridged with leather or leather-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves are made of leather.

its been several days and we seem to be in agreement. Lets clear and lock the commpad with regular TIE pad for L1 and the Inferno specific pad for L2.

@Chaos I'm not married to that text for this part, but mainly because we had it with the other ones. We may not need it for every part, what do you think?

@RAIDER I meant to circle back on this awhile back. I agree, the reference images aren't showing the blue in the recessed vents/cut outs. I've adjusted the text accordingly for those specific parts. I adjusted the third level details with the purple text and removed it at the L2 level. I believe that having the blue glow on the thrusters works. @Threeve this looks like this will probably be good for the text. Jump Pack Solid black in color and styled after the comic reference. A loose interpretation is allowed, but reference accuracy is encouraged. There are four levels/sections to the backpack described below: Top level: A four-sided rectangular detail in the upper one-third of the second level near the wearer's helmet. The sides of the rectangle are longer on the outer edges. Second level: A six-sided coffin shaped detail in the upper two-thirds of the third level. The sides of this shape are longer on the outer edges. Third level: A ten-sided uniquely shaped detail, with two sides that that jut out just above the thruster sections. On each of those two sides there are two rectangular cut-outs that match the reference photos. These cut-outs must be backed with material that matches the color of the rest of the jump pack. Fourth level: There are two obtuse triangular-shaped sections on each side of the jump pack. From these triangular shapes there are two slanted sections where the thrusters are mounted. There are two circular thrusters mounted on each of the slanted sections on each side. The circular thrusters have straight or slightly curved pipes with a ringed section, approximately 1/4 inch (6.35mm), near the top. The inner section of the thrusters must be backed with material that is either painted or utilizes LEDs to give a bluish soft glow. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Fourth Level: The inner section of the thrusters must be backed with material and utilizes LEDs to give a bluish soft glow.

Agreed, gives plenty of detail on the specifics of the Inferno compad, while still allowing the flexibility of a more accessible regular TIE compad.

Thanks to all. AND yes I corrected the title. I had scout on the brain. 😁 Im going to start making the body connections with webbing and snaps., then elastic for the arms armor.

I'd agree with snaps for the body & elastic for the shoulder bells. Also elastic for biceps & forearms

I used a mix of elastic and regular nylon straps. Used elastic where I thought it would be needed like for the shoulder to bichep. I used snaps in all cases, no direct glued straps or velcro. Allows for replacing the strap more easily if needed.

I personally don't see any need to either require or disallow Velcro. This is a 3D modelled costume, and as far as I'm aware no one ever spotted any Velcro peeking through, created by an extra diligent 3D artist! Again I'd be happy to give Velcro as an example of how certain features could be fixed, without making it a requirement. So long as the aesthetics are right, what is going on underneath doesn't much matter. With that in mind, just a couple more similar tweaks below. Also yes, I'm happy to close off the helmet again. Flight suit One-piece flight suit is made out of canvas or similar heavy, textured material. The front zipper is covered by an approximately 2" (50mm) wide piece of leather or leather-like material with vertical lines that attaches with Velcro over the zipper (eg. using Velcro). Approximately 1.5" (38mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. An approximately 2.5" (63.5mm) red embroidered or PVC Inferno Squad emblem, on a black background, is present on both shoulders. The shoulders of the suit are slightly padded. A compad pocket that properly fits the compad is placed above the left glove so that the pocket is not hidden, and faces outward on the arm. On the left bicep below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. There is a piece of nylon strapping leather or leather-like material sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at an angle bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. The right sleeve has a cargo pocket below the cog emblem. The right arm pocket has a chevron flap. Two large chest pockets and two large front pockets with no zippers or flaps are present below the belt There are no leg pockets below the knees. There are two red stripes that run up the right side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the right leg and continues up to the right armpit. The second begins at the right wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The red arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder as a black stripe. There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The black arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder to the collar. For basic approval this can be accomplished with topstitching. The black portion of this stripe stops at the collar. A piece of leather or leather-like material is sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Patches are vinyl on textile with no edge border. If twill is used for the patch material the fabric texture will be vertically oriented. The black stripes on top of the shoulders shall be a material matching texture and weave of the red stripe. A thick textile such as textured canvas is most accurate for the flightsuit's construction as it is a thick materials with a "solid" structure. A "loose", soft or lightweight material is not accurate. If features such as an elasticated waistband cause the fabric to bunch and fold, the suit will not meet level two certification.

Ok so a lot has happened since my last post. I decided to order a new helmet that fit me better, and I ordered it from CyberCraft. I first printed and built my own helmet, but my build plate is too small, and consequently the helmet would not fit on my head. Now it is a display piece. But anyway, I ordered it from CyberCraft, and it took twice as long as they said it would. Also, I got a notification that it had been sent, I waited for it to arrive, and what I found in my mailbox was a letter saying that it was still coming. When I asked them about it, they said they sent a letter with the tracking number just so Etsy wouldn't penalize them for being late. It actually arrived almost a month after that. This seemed pretty shady to me. Anyway, I finally got it, and I had to install some wire mesh beneath the vents. Also, I had them custom paint to CRL standards. It would not have compliant otherwise. With my helmet done, I was finally ready for submission. I took photos and submitted: After about a week, I heard back that I needed to do some revisions. I needed to paint the chest buckles to be more silver, then weather them. I also needed to weather the forearm cylinders, and all silver parts on the helmet. Also, I needed to add some foam inside the forearms so they fit better. I also needed to add two black elastic cords to bridge the gap on the inside of the bicep pieces. In case there's anyone else out there like me, since the cords are black and the armor is black, I didn't even see these cords on the CRL. But they are there, and so they need to be there on ours too. After I did these revisions, I submitted again: After this, I was accepted. That just happened this past week. I was advised that I might want to do some more weathering on the silver parts, and maybe add some extra padding inside the helmet to reduce the bobblehead, but I was still accepted. It's been quite a journey. I'm sure there will be a million things I want to fix after my first troop, but we'll see. I've signed up for my first troop on April 5th. Thanks to everyone on here who has helped me in this journey.

Next up! Revision 0 Abdomen Armor Gloss black in color except where noted below. Shall be centered under the chest. The outer upper corners are tapered and angled up and out from the center. There are two vertical details that are angled outward and have 18-20 raised horizontal ridges. They are positioned outside a raised center section. Details are painted metallic black, silver, or dark gray. There is a raised center section which has a raised circular ring. There is a half spherical recess in the upper right corner of the center section. There are two small elongated vertical rectangles along the top of the raised center section. The Abdomen and Lower Back side extensions, if any, may meet flush at the sides. Two pistons may be present. If present, the ends must have the appearance of being attached to the abdomen and extended to be hidden by the belt. Pistons shafts will be painted metallic black or silver. Abdomen section may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

I am conducting vacuum mold testing for helmets, assembling them simply. I use ABS vacuum to make the outer shell of the helmet and use resin to create details. It looks good, but it still needs some optimization.

The digital repair of the chest and back armor has been completed.

Belt and boxes areives today from Bailey Build Designs Quality is epic

Hello all Whiel teresa is workign on pans, i did a few more modifacations to the chest, belt, and gauntlets. How we looking?

Thanks for sharing @swman77 I never thought to start getting involved and serving as a handler while finish up my kit and getting approved. Great opportunity to meet the local group and learn.

Changing the length of your laces is not an issue, just as long as they are hidden from view you're good to go.

Have you measured the diameter of your forehead? That's one of the more important factors I would be concerned with. Though their site says it fits a 25" circumference forehead. If you are under that size, you should be ok. The other option would be to get MCM's 3D Print files and print/assemble the helmet yourself. It's more time intensive, but these are the best files. I have bought them myself because I am in Club Big Head and am actively filling and sanding my helmet at the moment.

Hi Jed. Welcome to Spec Ops. Awesome choice of costume. The build is pretty gruelling but it is so much fun to wear and looks so impressive. make sure to ask lots of questions as you go, we are here to help you on your journey.

I did some more weathering to dull out the green.