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Tomorrow is the big day for me! I am heading to an armor party for a suit up and to get help taking my pictures for approval. Got a checklist of everything I need and inventoried all of my stuff. I should be good to go! My next post should be the pictures I submitted for approval, and hopefully I hear back soon/quickly!

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

Face fully assembled and looking lovely! Filler primer on the dome is drying now.

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

APPROVED! TX-17241! Now to do all of the fun access stuff on all of the forums.

Nathan does an amazing job of weathering his kit. For your helmet this might help. The same technique will work for the forearm cylinders. For your armor this will help as well Ideally, you will want to use acrylic paints. This provides two benefits... it's not permanent and can be washed off if you ever want to look like you just walked out of an Emperial Quartermaster. I also highly recommend that you use flat black or the Tamiya TS40 for the recess details mentioned in the CRL. Pay attention to this because not all recesses are painted. I used the same method on mine, but instead of a brush, I used an airbrush with light gray and a damp rag to wipe down the excess wash. Best of luck and the best advice I can give you this is not like a sand trooper or mudtrooper. When it comes to weathering DTs, less is more. Keep it conservative.

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

Okay…so my bucket is…complete. Unfortunately the paint job didn’t turn out quite as good as I had hoped, and as I was finishing the final details and assembly, made a couple blemishes, but my hope is I can fix it in weathering. Anyway here are some shots of the “clean” bucket.

I’m using this for the trim on my bucket. Use the longer side on the inside of the helmet and the shorter side sits perfectly around the edge.

I finished up my mcmdesigns blaster. As usual, mcm files work great Also side note he also made files for the chest rig

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

once i am painting, i will post it up, want to ensure its valid and viable

just an update for everyone, i am knee deep in printing all the pieces, my pants and my shirt have arrived. Its coming together quite nicely, i am almost at painting stage for my kit as well I ended up going the automotive route with the paint, so would it be something people want for me to post up the formula for the white colur i use? that way, no matter where people are in the world, an auto store can mix it up as paint for them. i think most auto stores can mix them into spray cans as well, even thogh i prefer the air brush route

I cant verify anywhere that the red and blue lights were ever actually turned on, i cant see them in the dark lit scenes. Do we have anything that shows them working? id like to include it but like all lights we need to see them working, like on Vader or Fett. Lets call this change log 2.0 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tannish or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor.

I've had this build happening for 2+ years, and I'm trying to wrap it up. I also have a Shadow Trooper that is 90% done, just need to do the strapping. I'm trying to get these teo done and out of the way so I can get R1TK started and have room in my work shop for when my Vader parts start arriving.

Everything is looking good so. Regards to the placement of your abs and lower back, best to put the top front and back armor on, the adjust the abs and back to get the correct placement

Dear all, It has been a while. Due to personal situations I had to put the build on hold. But now I've picked up where I left. I continued with the fitment of the lower portion of the armor and in the meanwhile collected the correct tools etc. I was wondering if the location of the plating is in the right position. In these pictures the crotch and butt plate pieces are not connected yet to the back/stomach plates. I started the construction of the harness for the thighs. When the harness is finished & the thighs connected I will continue with the belt. I need to learn how to sew for the pouches. Have a nice weekend! And see you in the next update!

Hey @lonnolan, Can you PM me your email address & IOC forums username? I can ask the IOC DL to look at your questions. Thanks

I'm tagging @Dropkick because he is in the DL messenger group and can personally hit up the IOC DL.

If you haven't already, join this Facebook group and post your issue there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/iocofficersmess It's a frequent enough issue I see posted, so you should get help pretty quick.

Here are the V2 macrobinoculars printed at .2mm layer height. They look great! Any scratches or artifacts you see are just from the supports, I didn't do a perfect job. It has an inner and outer lip so you should be able to trim clear plastic and glue it on as a lens easy. Just let me know if you want this one and I can ship it out with the comlink.

I reached out to Jintalol about two weeks ago, and he said the kit would still take about another month. I expect another update or shipping info around September 15th.

Chris, Do you have access to a 3D FPM or resin printer? If so you can use these files I used on my Jim kit. Print at 100% infill. I didn't like the shoulder and V rings. The lower side buckles are good enough, I just hollowed out the Buckle to accommodate a side strap that I made. I attached my chest rig all the time and it is heavy because I have heavy magazines in the pouches, I have never had an issue with any of it. This kit is expensive in it's basic form, metal accessories are nice to have but so not necessary! 0 Updated Shoulder Buckles and Rings 8 Feb 2021.stl 1 Side Buckle Straps 10 Feb 21.stl

Another small update on the face peices: Did some more weathering on the “weathered silver” parts to get them closer to references as they were still too shiny. Assembling the tusks, I used the same lens material as the visor, sanded the back side for some diffusion, and placed some aluminum foil behind them for a little extra reflectiveness, as I don't plan to install lights for now. Also glued in little mesh grills under the side vents.

1 can of Duplicolor, but I ended up buying 2 cans of 2K Clearcoat because I messed up and had to redo it, which required sanding it off. I just chalked it up to a learning experience.

I tried another variation of the helmet bolts but I don't think my FDM 3D printed can do it justice, so I reached out to Imperial Surplus to get a set of the accurate bolts. For the boots, I added notches where the tread occurred on the boots, please let me know what you think (I'll clean up the grey overpaint soon): I also got a better suit up, I think it's looking pretty much there. I can do the belt and cod a little bit higher and the boxes a little bit wider next time.

You mean it’s not done the same as my Biker Scout’s TD? 🤣 I think I’ll just stick with what’s known to work and use the bracket file from @DoggyDoc

Decided to take a gamble on their BOGO combo. I used the contact form on the site to ask about current time frame, and got an actual reply from Trevor within a few minutes saying 8-10 weeks. That seemed to be an “ok” sign. Also, the price was already reduced, and was able to get an additional 20% off for the Labor Day sale. So my total was $452 with free delivery. Even if it’s 12 weeks, I doubt I’ll be anywhere near finished my armor by that time.

Yeah, you should! If I were residing in North America, Imperial Arms would be good. But in the EU, I think I have to find somewhere else if the customs fee is crazy. Also, if you are planning for E-11D level 2 approval, Imperial Arms Blaster doesn't support that. I guess I will have to find the maker of this in the future.

Yeah, it took longer than expected, but I heard some people got them 10 months later, so... I guess I am lucky The pictures I got from the maker looked great, and he even gave me an additional blaster(small EC-17 with scope). Now all I have to do is wait for the courier. Hopefully, it arrives safely in Germany with little customs fees...

@DarthBerry The bolts…thinner is def better but the hole in the middle still isnt right to me. it should be a pretty gradual sublte slope to the center…not flat all around until it drops into a “hole” Boots…something like this should work fine

@DarthBerry Very nice! This is gonna look great once the fit is situated. Looking back at your helmet pic…I would suggest looking into a different helmet bolt. Here is a pic of a more accurate “concave” look (the one you have is too thick I think and the concave area is more like a hole rather than a subtle slope).

I am still waiting, the owner did sent me a reply on a progression that he had family matter which resulted in a delay. He sent me the pictures but wasn’t able to see the, so will request for it again. Hopefully it will be sent to me by this months… then just have to wait to get the helmet and the armor…

New cummerbund came in! I gave it a paint job and compared it to the old (it is must larger). I should be ready for a suitup tomorrow.

Been very slow progress although im now nearly 2 stone lighter than I was with much more to go. Finally got a new job which while part time is better than nothing and can get full time if I really need to. Been working in parts on the armour to fit me as the prongs were now way too long , will sort sides later , so have cut them down and reshaping. Saw on an ICAT post that someone had used picture hooks to use to secure the prongs into the chest so ill be stealing that idea. I've rough cut the vents out and they will be filed down properly. My issue is with the hose connectors. I cant see anywhere and certainly not on the crl to see if they are just fitted on or if the holes inside them when looking down vertically are drilled out or just left solid. Not fussed with way and I assume if its not mentioned then the GML wont be looking for it but id like to be sure

Got my E-22 Blaster in for this from Imperial Arms, big delay in the shipping due to a family issue on their end, but love the quality from what i can see: https://flic.kr/p/2rovhF2 https://flic.kr/p/2rovhER https://flic.kr/p/2rowsMW https://flic.kr/p/2rowsN2 And weird how half of them posted as normal links and the other half as the actual pictures

Hi Fernando Welcome to the spec opf forum. Can you also head over to the Spec Ops recruits section and make a post there, so we make sure you are set up with the correct permissions. The coat is an original desing, and doesnt share much in common at all with a BDU coat. And i have a LOT of BDU coats leftove from my service days. I dont know of a pattern for it, and people have been making them from scratch. I know Sheev's Emporium has posted all their research on their FB page, and JimTripon JImmiroqui and KeepTrooping are offering them for sale. I would be inclined to say its pretty simple but I know its not, because in all our research on it, there are features that are blended from othe military blouses over time. The coat hoooks on the sides to hold the belt, the mandarin collar, the cut of the sleeves, its a custom job. You COULD start with a simple jacket patttttern like farm chore coat or even a long sleeve shirt pattern and work ack from that, keepiing in mind the overlap similar to a BDU coat, the blouses featured a back yoke which is easy to see on the green uniforms. You can take a look at a very early sketch a tailor worked out in a post on this page .

I've sent for approval! Cheers and thanks to all that helped out in this WIP thread! @RAIDER @IcyTrooper @Chaos @Blackwatch @Dropkick

CJ, I think you may have misinterpreted what was being said. The CRL has always stated: Boots Boots are made from matte black leather or leather-like material with a capped toe and seams as seen in the photo. The sole shall have no heel. The boots extend under the shins. All fastenings/laces are hidden behind a rectangular panel made of smooth rubber or a shiny black material with approximately 1/4" (6mm) wide horizontal ribs. The side edges of the panel shall be turned back on themselves to form a smooth rib-less border. The rectangular panel extends from under the shin. For basic approval the boots have to look "similar" to the Dr Martens but only have to meet the above criteria. For Level 2, they have to either be Jareds or "replicas." OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Original Dr Martens “Jered” shoes or replicas with a leather pull tab midway on the heel. The rectangular panels shall not be wider than the width of the top of the shoe and will lay as flat as possible against the shoe with the front edge not extending past the upper and sole seam. Currently there are two makers who provide L2 approvable "replicas", Crow Props and Keep Trooping. Right now both have the boots available on their sites: https://keeptrooping.com/product/killer/ https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/deathtrooper-boots

yes we are still waiting. my day here is pretty doggone crazy and ive been offline for a week. can someone round up the proposals and consolidate them in the next post? we ahve been all over the place since 2023 on this, and we need focus.

Matt Tarriff linked it in onoe of his other replies , i have a topic on the forum probably in the Agent thread, and he replied. Its on Thingverse.

Jim's kit doesn't have a piece under the abdomen. I used a piece of ABS and epoxied it to the bottom edge. This gave me a place to put velcro strips to hold the belt in place.