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Did we confirm it is the Merr Sonn Power 5? Is it on an IOC CRL presently that you could link? We are going to be adding the Version 3 helmet option soon. @Dropkick will need to model it, I think we may have gotten the pics but we have to check them out again. I know that we have the text for it prepped. There is a Legion web team CRL backend system transition going on at the moment, so updates to CRLs are sort of in stasis at the moment until that is finalized.

Hello, just seeing this. I know I'm late, but I have both a completed MonCal helmet and a second hand Anovos helmet. The Anovos one looks glossier and has some extra painted details, but I feel the MonCal is better built and sturdier. As an additional difference, the Anovos comes with mirrored stunt lenses that I couldn't get with my MonCal built helmet. I'm still working on a MonCal Shadow Trooper armor kit for approval. Going to do Shadow Trooper and Battlefront Shadow Trooper, so I'll be using both helmets with differences as required by CRLs of course.

oh yeah totally get that but wherever it goes im gonna make it lol

Superb work so far, this is looking great! As far as the paint scheme goes, I personally love that you've extrapolated a bit of a camo scheme for it, and I think that is going to simultaneously be the biggest challenge and the biggest achievement. I would agree with David that an airbrush would give you a lot more control over the process if you have access to one, but it can still be done with sponges if not. The key is to water the paint down nicely like you did with the knees. You want to be essentially glazing the paint on one thin layer at a time to create a smoother gradient between the colours, and just get it looking a bit more subtle. Also, while you definitely still want some of that base tan showing through, I think that some of the parts need more of a green hue to match the reference pictures. The helmet is a good example. Again I'd suggest glazing would be a decent approach. Get your green paint *extremely* watered down and sponge it on almost all over the surface to apply a green glaze/tint. You can repeat the process as many times as necessary until you feel that you're close to where you want that to be. Better to take that approach than to go in heavy handed with the green and risk ruining all the great work already done. The exact same method would also be useful for smoothing out colour gradients. If you've gone on too heavy with the dark brown in any areas for example, dab on some thinned down green over the entire area. You'll find it helps tie the colours in together and create a much smoother effect. Maybe just pick one of the smaller armour pieces and work on that until you're happy with it? Drop back in here for feedback if you need it, and once that one piece is finalised you can try and match the process to the rest to create a nice consistent finish.

it may be something we misinterpreted looking at screenshots. We partly used the shore as a basis since parts are the same.

@DarthBerry I think this looks much better and at the very least is on the right track. I appreciate you taking the critique and looking for a way to improve upon it. Well done! Let me ping some of the DCA team to see if we can some more feedback before you press on. Thanks!

I gave my least favorite part (the knees) a make over based on your recommendation. I watered down the sponging to give it a less splotchy look and I really like how it came it out. Please let me know what you think and I can give the other smaller pieces a go. New: Game: Old:

Die Frage des Konsens stelle ich mir auch gerade. Ich werde meinen Darktrooper jetzt weiter nach der Hot Toys Puppe weiter zusammen bauen. Eventuelle Abweichung können dann später diskutiert werden, und gegebenen falls bei Bedarf geändert werden.

AND as much as we love this, its up to the LMO to see where this costume goes

Gonna talk to Jim sometime next week after paying bills about an undersuit and then after I come back from wondercon end of March I will place the order from 850 about the abs armor. Will be ordering new gloves soon from Endor finders and slowly order my belt parts!!

Plastic Arms Dealer sells the belt material and metal buckle. He no longer produces any of the armor portions. https://plasticarmsdealer.com/shop/24450541/death-trooper-parts The two small square boxes are the boxes that are attached to the belt and located at the wearer's hips. Gerald @DoggyDoc may have made his own 3D file, check with him.

A lot of the same vendors who do regular stormtrooper kits have helmets, if you have the black paint to match the armor. Anovos (second hand, eBay) Denuo Novo (US) Walt's Trooper Factory (US) Authentic Props (AP, Canada) RS Prop Masters (UK) RWA Creations (UK) RT-Mod (Canada) Armor Master (AM, US) MTK now sold by Imperial Surplus (US)

Ok so a lot has happened since my last post. I decided to order a new helmet that fit me better, and I ordered it from CyberCraft. I first printed and built my own helmet, but my build plate is too small, and consequently the helmet would not fit on my head. Now it is a display piece. But anyway, I ordered it from CyberCraft, and it took twice as long as they said it would. Also, I got a notification that it had been sent, I waited for it to arrive, and what I found in my mailbox was a letter saying that it was still coming. When I asked them about it, they said they sent a letter with the tracking number just so Etsy wouldn't penalize them for being late. It actually arrived almost a month after that. This seemed pretty shady to me. Anyway, I finally got it, and I had to install some wire mesh beneath the vents. Also, I had them custom paint to CRL standards. It would not have compliant otherwise. With my helmet done, I was finally ready for submission. I took photos and submitted: After about a week, I heard back that I needed to do some revisions. I needed to paint the chest buckles to be more silver, then weather them. I also needed to weather the forearm cylinders, and all silver parts on the helmet. Also, I needed to add some foam inside the forearms so they fit better. I also needed to add two black elastic cords to bridge the gap on the inside of the bicep pieces. In case there's anyone else out there like me, since the cords are black and the armor is black, I didn't even see these cords on the CRL. But they are there, and so they need to be there on ours too. After I did these revisions, I submitted again: After this, I was accepted. That just happened this past week. I was advised that I might want to do some more weathering on the silver parts, and maybe add some extra padding inside the helmet to reduce the bobblehead, but I was still accepted. It's been quite a journey. I'm sure there will be a million things I want to fix after my first troop, but we'll see. I've signed up for my first troop on April 5th. Thanks to everyone on here who has helped me in this journey.

Scarf should work. I used this paint on the goggles and subsequently weathered:

As the guys said above, it will be legion who decides where to put this costume. And they won't start deciding until the full series has aired. So we will have to be patient to see if it come here or elsewhere. Thanks so much for showing the interest in building the costume.

i said bolt it, orderd new stuff and ive already got the webbing sewed on, leather inhand, and im making the pouches tomorrow.

agree. This is a small scale figure with very few real details present. I see this as a departure from Del, or a stepping stone TO Del.

I don't have any pictures on me at the moment, but I filled one of the MP40 mag pouches and the outside oiler pouch with a small piece of wood cut to size. I had previously screwed in a large magnet to each of those two pieces of wood. When I'm putting on my flight suit, I simply hold the pouch in place on my shoulder and then place two magnets inside my sleeve to trap the pouch in place. It's not an ideal solution, but it works.

@SirCalcium This is not a screen grab, but it’s a close representation:

this line bugs me, its mirrored in both Iden and in Hask. ::snippage:: On the left bicep below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. There is a piece of nylon strapping leather or leather-like material sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. ::snippage:: What is view direction? Other CRLs match this as well and I honestly dont know what this is supposed to mean. I concur with the proposed changes. If a purchaser needs to remove, or ask a maker not to install a elastic waistband, so be it.

ok, i have looked at every STL file I can find from all the sites I know, and I do not see Matts files anymore. this may be the case of good old fashioned 1:1 scale model building the way we used to make props. Form thin plastic around a pair of pipes connected by plastic plates, and work out from there. If i had to make a new commlink I would start with a pill bottle and modify that. Im going to continue to look for files for this.

This is the agreed upon finalized text for the Del Meeko upgrade. This is NOT the discussion topic, only the final text. All CRL update discussion will take place in the discussion topic. Helmet The Inferno Squad helmet is modelled with reference to the 3D model specific to Battlefront II game. The Rogue One TIE Pilot style helmet is allowed for Basic Approval when requirements outlined below are incorporated. Original Trilogy TIE Pilot style helmets are not permitted. There are no screws visible on the helmet. Lenses are bubble or flat, are red in color, and must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. Translucent or mirrored red lenses are acceptable. The front trident area is shorter than a traditional pilot helmet. There is a rectangular indentation on top of the mohawk above the trident. There is one retaining clip greeblie in the left side trident indentation. A Nissan retaining clip is most accurate. The top of the mohawk outside of the raised triangle is painted a dark gun metal color down to the inside edge of the helmet opening. There is a pill box just above the back bottom edge of the mohawk. The pill box is the same black color as the helmet and does not need to be functional. Spaces between the teeth are cut out and backed with a dark gray or silver mesh material. The teeth and vocoder are painted flat black. Oxygen mask connectors are molded into the helmet just in front of the ear caps above the cheek tubes on both sides of the helmet. There are Imperial disc greeblies without notches on each ear cap. There are two painted or decal logos on the forehead of the helmet. The Inferno Squad logo on the right side and an Imperial cog on the left side. Logo and Cog are equivalent in size, and shall be approximately 2.15" to 2.75" (54-69mm) for approval. There is a red painted or red decal area on the ram’s horn on the right side of the helmet. There is a red painted or red decal area on the right cheek tube. There are molded greeblies painted silver inside the hose ports that cover the openings. Helmet may have light weathering/ staining. Silver is not permitted. A balaclava must be worn when helmet is worn. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Helmet is strictly made with reference to the game's 3D model and correctly sized/scaled to the wearer. Hose connectors are made from machined aluminium. The vocoder is it's own separate greeblie with distinct tubes, not bumps molded into the helmet. Imperial Cog and Inferno Squad logo will be approximately 2.15" to 2.25" (54-57mm), scaled to wearer's helmet size. Lenses are backed with round-holed mesh/screen. Lenses are bubble type.

Just jumping in to say, thanks for the suggestion and we'll note that overbelt one, but we are systematically tackling the items line by line in order of the CRL. It helps keep from hopping all over the place and making it realllllly busy.

Updated E11-B

I think that sounds good for the Hand & Finger Armor text: Hand & Finger Armor Hand armor and fingers are gloss black except where annotated. May be separate from or attached to the gloves. The hand & finger armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The hand armor consists of two distinct pieces; a base piece and hand plate. The base piece which sits over the back of the hand is slightly curved across the back of the hand. May have an outside (pinky) edge which is angled down and wrapped around to the palm. May have an inside (thumb) edge which is shorter beginning just aft of the thumb joint and wrapped to the palm. The handplate is flat and elongated with eight sides. There is a square notch in the fingers end of the hand plate. There are six raised elongated rectangles along the outside edge. There is a raised pentagon on the back edge near the wrist. Raised details are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Fingers are armored in 2-3 rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, with the fingertips ending in contoured trapezoids. There may be small circles on the fingertip pads. The joints between the pieces are segmented to allow movement and have a circle detail resembling a mechanical joint. Mechanical pieces may be present giving the appearance of the finger pieces being attached to the hand base piece. The palms may have flat armor plates attached to the glove’s palm.

I'll jump straight in with a few suggestions that stand out to me already. Firstly I'm just tweaking the suit material wording to reflect some of the discussion we had last year. Secondly giving Velcro as an example of how the zipper cover can be added, rather than making it essential. I'm not aware of any references that clearly show Velcro being used in game? There is a reference to "nylon strapping" below the pen sleeve opening as well as a later (more accurate) reference to leather or leather-like material below the pen sleeve opening. I'd guess that maybe this correction was made at some point, but the original "nylon strapping" text was left in by mistake? That aside I just corrected a couple of spelling / grammatical mistakes. Happy to take feedback on the above or on anything I missed, thanks! Proposed changes in gold New text in green Text removals in red strikethrough Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. A balaclava must be worn when the helmet is worn. Flight suit One-piece flight suit is made out of canvas or similar heavy, textured material. The front zipper is covered by an approximately 2" (50mm) wide piece of leather or leather-like material with vertical lines that attaches with Velcro over the zipper (eg. using Velcro). Approximately 1.5" (38mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. An approximately 2.5" (63.5mm) red embroidered or PVC Inferno Squad emblem, on a black background, is present on both shoulders. The shoulders of the suit are slightly padded. A compad pocket that properly fits the compad is placed above the left glove so that the pocket is not hidden, and faces outward on the arm. On the left bicep below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. There is a piece of nylon strapping leather or leather-like material sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. The right sleeve has a cargo pocket below the cog emblem. The right arm pocket has a chevron flap. Two large chest pockets and two large front pockets with no zippers or flaps are present below the belt There are no leg pockets below the knees. There are two red stripes that run up the right side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the right leg and continues up to the right armpit. The second begins at the right wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The red arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder as a black stripe. There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The black arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder to the collar. For basic approval this can be accomplished with topstitching. The black portion of this stripe stops at the collar. A piece of leather or leather-like material is sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Patches are vinyl on textile with no edge border. If twill is used for the patch material the fabric texture will be vertically oriented. The black stripes on top of the shoulders shall be a material matching texture and weave of the red stripe. A thick textile such as textured canvas is most accurate for the flightsuit's construction as it is a thick materials with a "solid" structure. A "loose", soft or lightweight material is not accurate.

The completed product of the forearm, the missile is made of aluminum alloy material.

The details of the armor back have been completed, and the vacuum detonator has been completed. The production of vacuum armor has begun.

agree with the proposal, as the wording came from Anton and I had not considered the direct game model issue of making the file directly from some unknown file. Lets keep this open for review/discussion a couple of days more and then clear and lock the topic to move on.

I was curious as to how many approved Imperial Security Troopers there are currently. This list could help newcomers reach out and ask questions about the costume. I am totally open to helping newcomers with it. 1. Pyro-WTX Squad 2. Wompet - Nickel City Squad

Check your PMs, Calvin

Revision 1 Hand Amor and Fingers Hand armor and fingers are gloss black except where annotated. May be separate from or attached to the gloves. The hand armor consists of two distinct pieces; a base piece and handplate. The base piece which sits over the back of the hand is slightly curved across the back of the hand. May have an outside (pinky) edge which is angled down and wrapped around to the palm. May have an inside (thumb) edge which is shorter beginning just aft of the thumb joint and wrapped to the palm. The handplate is flat and elongated with eight sides. There is a square notch in the fingives end of the handplate. There are six raised elongated rectangles along the outside edgand. There is a raised pentagon on the back edge near the wrist. Raised details are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Fingers are armored in 2-3 rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, with the fingertips ending in contoured trapezoids. There may be small circles on the fingertip pads. The joints between the pieces are segmented to allow movement and have a circle detail resembling a mechanical joint. Mechanical pieces may be present giving the appearance of the finger pieces being attached to the hand base piece. The palms may have flat armor plates attached to the glove’s palm. Hand armor may be slightly weathered thist got be uniform with the rest of the costume.

Right on, thanks! I was getting crushed by work for a few weeks but back at the hobby for now. For the details, I think my concern was just whether the intent was to let grey details be acceptable for L1, since it's only required to be correct (black) in the L2 language. No problem either way to me! For the paint, the graphics from the game are really old and not detailed so I felt extrapolating the "splotchy" that's pretty clear on the bigger and more detailed items would be the intent. If the team feels different, please let me know which part you think is the least accurate and I'll give it a repaint to test another style and see what you guys think. Here's the boots, I don't see anything in the Draft CRL that would prevent the soles from L1 approval but open to input! I've still got to make the toes cleaner if the sole is okay.

bumping for an answer for Matt

Boots done! What do you guys think? Action pose:

Thanks, @dewannawangahas kindly shared some images

The CRL has just one on that side: But @dewannawanga or @smoszer do you have other pics of it?

Unfortunately, my Scout Boots were awful and need some major rework so I put the project on hold for a week. Today was just a trial to see how things look together so no Balaclava/gloves/detonator/shoes(lol) but things are looking pretty good. Once the boots are done, I'll do another suit up correctly. I know I blend right into the tree behind me, but trust me, I'm in the photos.

This is a composite ribbed fabric with a thickness of 5mm. I added Velcro to it and it perfectly blends with the leg armor.

I am conducting vacuum mold testing for helmets, assembling them simply. I use ABS vacuum to make the outer shell of the helmet and use resin to create details. It looks good, but it still needs some optimization.

The digital repair of the chest and back armor has been completed.

Since my approval years ago I see that the CRL changed and update the TU for the helmet. I searched around and found the WTF was able to provide one for me...but it's awful. The quality of the resin case was very bad and the scale seemed off compared to the CRL photos.... So I've modeled my own for 3d printing and I'm giving the files away. If you spot any glaring inaccuracies, I'm willing to try to fix it or share the fusion source. Merry Christmas! nocjef TX66667 IATCommUnit.3mf

This is a vacuum test for the thighs and buttocks. I think it looks pretty good.

The fifth version of the helmet mold has been completed and is ready for production. I hope it can be successful this time 😄

Some molds are ready, I will conduct some vacuum tests tomorrow. This is a comparison between the old mold and the new mold.

The arm mold has been completed and is currently being produced.

I'd be okay with that.

Just starting to piece together an imperial trooper and this was is turning out to be very useful/informative since it doesn't seem like anyone else has done anything like this on here since you posted yours 4 years ago! thank you EDIT: I will definitely try to post updated sources while building mine tho

Good afternoon, everyone! It has recently been brought to our attention that a panel within the comics that contain General Weir actually display him utilizing a DLT-20a. This is an approvable weapon for the Shadow Scout, so this will be a welcomed add to the General Weir costume. Here is the image from the comic as well as a refence to the DLT-20a: The text that will be added to the CRL will be as follows: DLT-20a Blaster Rifle The BlasTech DLT-20A blaster rifle was a long-barreled rifle (sometimes referred to as a "longblaster") with a top-mounted rangefinder and electronic sight. It had automatic and semiautomatic settings and a rate of fire very close to that of the DC-15A blaster rifle and other longblasters. This was one of the few blaster models produced with a magnatomic adhesion grip, keeping the weapon firmly in the wielder's grip and making him or her more difficult to disarm. With additional collimating rings and longer conduits of galven circuitry, these rifles have improved consistency in their shots. Based on a real or replica STG-44 machine gun, with parts from the Browning M1919. Real or prop scope. Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster is lightly weathered.

Let's be real here, this is not really a "build" thread as it's really mostly just a ... "see what I did!" thread. The soft parts for this costume is relatively easy. There are a few vendors out there making this suit, I happen to have gotten mine from Vince @ KeepTrooping (formerly ImperialBoots). Eventually, KT will be offering Ferrix set as well (black version of this costume), so I look forward to that. I WILL say, @sonfield turned me onto the Dylon dye pod, and it was the easiest dying job I have ever done (and I've dyed a lot of things in the past, mostly with RIT). This baby here, all you need to do is open the top, and drop them into the washing machine (follow instructions), and throw in your hat, trousers, and jacket, and you're good to go. To ensure even-ess, what I did was pausing the wash cycle every once in a while to swirl the fabric around, to make sure you get good coverage. With their preset amount, you don't have to worry about ratios like when it comes to other powder dying approaches. These are the suits after they came out of the wash, already looking pretty good I THINK eventually I might want them to be darker, but for now I'm satisfied!