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I squeezed out some time and am working hard to put the sample armor on the dummy, which is 190cm high.

And, here-we-go Hat text will begin with the base text for the Security Trooper Version 2, no armor, with hat. From our Security Trooper CRL: Hat — Version Two Fabric matches the tunic and pants. Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76.2mm) down, decorated with (5), (6), (7) or (8) concentric stitches. An Imperial Code Disk is positioned in the center of the front vertical “flap”. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Disks do not feature a notch or groove details. Discussion: The hats are smaller at the top creating more of a truncated cone than in the past. Its subtle, but its there. The slope angle is slightly different. Another thing I note is that the disc greeblie does not look like the standard greeblie we have always used in the past. Its looks slighly smaller, and has a more significant step to it.

Hi Guys, Ive spent the past few weeks designing the moulds for the ISB. Theyre also available as files however Ive converted these parts into Vac forming moulds. Ill be posting progress here. First are the renders. If there is anything that catches your eye that should be changed please let me know. Ive done my best to extrapolate some stuff from blurry screen caps from Andor as well as get other info from similar parts like the mud trooper from other media. CC welcome. If anyone wants the files they can be found HERE.

Here is what we are looking at for the chest armor then: Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. Light to moderate weathering consistent with reference images is permitted. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro, or another hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and are painted gunmetal or dark silver. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is white. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Moderate weathering consistent with reference images is required.

Just got my Triple 0 approved and met Anthony Daniels Saturday in it

White belt is done.

thanks Sebastion and that proves a point I was going to make. Ive given model kit demonstrations on weatheirng to appear under studio lights. Models for movies like Star WArs and Battlestar Galactica was SUPER weathered just to show up on filmstock. Tarrif's white armor proves this. I feel that "Light to moderate weathering consistant with reference images is permitted" would be appropriate for L1 while "Moderate weathering consistant with reference images is required" Ive seen guys use those brownish paint marker sponge things and just dab it all over and the armor looks like a cheetah.

Our shoulder bells are so stealthy we don't need no stinkin' zip ties

So Variant elements: No suspenders. (defining element) Does not have the two front angled pouches other IATs have on their belt. (defining element) Wears cap, not helmet. Code cylinder may or may not be present. Belt would have at least two smaller pouches per side. in several shots there seems to also be a low slung pouch on the left-side rear. I would assume these would be minimum requirements, with other pouches allowed like the other variants. The ones helping the general have rectangles drawn above the left chest pocket; some sort of identifier, either as a medic or a rank bar? Optional TK Belt and E-11. I have the required items for this variant and can pose for CRL pics if it would help. I'd love to get feedback and see these three things included in the CRL. Thanks for your time and attention!

before moving on to any other discussion, i want to clear and lock this text. Once this is agreed upon , we will move forward. final text proposal. Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. Chest armor is painted gloss white to match visual references. Light to moderate weathering consistent with reference images is permitted. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro, or another hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and are painted gunmetal or dark silver. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is white. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Moderate weathering consistent with reference images is required. Back armor Back plate is painted to match the chest armor, shin and arm armor. Back plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. Chest and back plate meet at the sides. There are 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cut out/greeblie. Back has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside, all painted the same white as the armor. The vents at the top of the boxes may have the openings darkened with weathering. Four raised bars approximately .375" (10mm) long aligned to the top of the recessed box opening may be present. Each recess has different and specific set of boxes inside that are painted to match the recessed box color. Light weathering is preferred inside of the recesses. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is a long thin raised greeblie positioned central and below the 2 large recesses. There is a small raised circle greeblie positioned central and below the above named greeblie. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are white and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The hose fittings are angled forward. There is a raised step on the bottom of the main back box. There is a recessed hole approximately .31" (7.8mm) above the top left corner of the left recessed box. There are two indented squares approximately 1⁄4" x 1⁄4" (5mm x 5mm) aligned vertically above the right upper corner of the left recessed box.

Upgraded abdominal armor and lower back armor.

Chest / back is now done and with the pauldrons and biceps attached. Had a lovely time hitting them with a brick to get some good distressed damage to them so the weathering takes better 🙂

Held together using elastic strapping, and attached to the boot using both magnets and a stirrup. The rivets are purely cosmetic. I might change that when my plastic sabatons arrive but for now that's how it is.

I just did a test fitting (no kama yet) and let me tell you about weathering. You probably need some minor degree of weathering to make certain parts pop out. I don't think it should 100% clean. The actual tactical squad should probably have moderate weathering. What looks moderately weathered up close can look lightly (or not at all) weathered from 10 feet away in certain lighting.

Test fitting complete. Still need to figure out the skirts / kama.

We've had a request to amend the CRL for the Imperial Army Trooper. I will keep this topic open until the end of the month, when it will be closed and discussed by Staff. Currently CRLs are not being updated due to ongoing maintenance and overhaul issues with the Legion CRL system, so we can discuss, but also have to wait our turn for publising anything. Please see this topic so we do not re-cover ground already discussed. Reference photos Reference Photos

Aluminum alloy upgrade

Here is one round of bondo and sanding, gonna give it a touch up in some rough areas add the remaining hardware and then start slinging paint. Need to figure out what kind of sling is used after that.

Had so printer issues but they have been resolved. Here is my left boots armor.

I see what you mean now. I still think its being kept of the main body by some struts, we can see those here But I think you're right that the top barrel is still using its mount hardware on a picatinny. This is what I think we are seeing, and I hate it as a way to mount a scope. Here's my mock up. Pink being the picatinny in question, right side pink is a more printed friendly version I'll likely use.

Working on the attachment point for the scopes looks like a strut attaching near the middle or upper middle of portion attaching the scopes together. I'm going to be using two struts. I wasn't able to catch a shot that shows more than one but given the thickness of them even made of metal I don't think one would be secure. As far as it attaching to the body of the blaster we can see a rail mounted to the side in line with the take down pins. I'll go ahead work on these next.

Hi Raymond. I am not an expert on the Shadow trooper but am very familiar with the original trilogy stormtroopers. The male snaps in the photo are not part of the CRL but are used to hold the belt in place on the abdomen armor. They are not seen, nor are they required but I think almost every one uses this method to attach the belt. For the Thigh armor, the rivets used to attach the thigh ammo belt are usually split rivets with a cap size around 5/16 inch or 8 mm similar to these https://www.abbeyengland.com/bifurcated-rivet-nickel-plated-12-3-16-7-9-gauge-g04701 https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets/split-rivets-bifurcated-rivets?srsltid=AfmBOooqXMY4LTpmaMbAm1SzdHwSU5fJxMZgQTJst9u_iMRrp9i5lNM6 For the holster connection to the belt, they are usually pop rivets but can be snaps or chicago screws or even the double cap rivets you have shown above. These would be similar to what was used on the CRL model https://www.amazon.com/ISPINNER-100pcs-Aluminum-Blind-Rivets/dp/B08KXJ969Y/ref=sr_1_7?crid=12NETAZBYCVTM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.MgjFJAJYXFRF8tA45YieA49uDkCshp_ck6CAsBRBGBXmc71SUJt3EQXZfcqacnUsls_YQZAqjOV7EDVoBN7dwxFyToZFS33AZYTKIxYCoN74WaZOlpTkGoyce89w4x5f0fZvZWIDGrGulGQfTGH_kiDkOQBOPIFNldUEj_dhBXKsor6DRep2E6__WXeHacXCJ9ZdLm492vJmoJe6bq4ozGGRCqbICHmYuBEjJMDQrI0.eh_XeMAPlI116ZuEAcNiY0AeNoDTEjDMxqkDufQh1HY&dib_tag=se&keywords=7%2Bmm%2Bpop%2Brivet&qid=1750771805&sprefix=7mm%2Bpop%2Brivet%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-7&th=1 Hope this helps

Not so much a build at this point in time, I’ve cleared V1, will be going on to do V2 here soon as well as working on my goggles for the mina rau variant. Strange to be joining the ranks I helped create.

Thank you Here's a comparison between the Inferno Helmet and the Rogue One Tie Pilot Helmet. You can see that the molds are totally different. The Inferno Helmet is also smaller as the Rogue One Helmet. The teeth sections are different and the Vocoder of the Rogue One Helmet is vacformed but for the Infernos it has to be a separate piece. The Trident and the sideburns looks different too. And on the back view you can see that the Mohawk Strip on the Inferno is not as wide as on the Rogue One Helmet.

I agree with the gallery, but this guy is far away from the camera, so a little hard to see any specific weathering: It'd be safe to allow for no weather or light to moderate weathering. Weathering is a very easy thing to mess up for people, it has to be done right. I feel like a requirement could prove to be an issue at a basic level (being overdone and we then have a burnt trooper that gets approved). My thoughts on that.

agreed. We shall proceed with the belief that these were reused from Season 1 without mofification. Change log 1.0 (Final text proposal) Tunic A long-sleeved, black jacket that falls just to mid-thigh, with no visible zippers or buttons. Fabric is a plain weave cotton similar to duck canvas. Has a high mandarin style collar with a left-over-right closure that rises from the front of the tunic. The front closure overlaps left over right and rises from the hem at the bottom of the tunic to the top of the collar. Four rectangular pockets are present on the jacket front, covered by large flapped closures. Lower pockets are larger than the ones on the upper chest. Lower pocket seams rest on the same seam as the end of the tunic The rear of the jacket has a horizontal seam present near the upper back. Two vertical seams start below the horizontal upper back seam moving down the bottom of the jacket. Two black tunic hooks to hold the belt in place are permitted. If used, the hooks will pass from the inside of the tunic to the outside through holes on either side of the tunic at the hip. The belt covers the holes. One pocket is present on each arm of the jacket, each covered by large flapped closures. The top of the arm pocket flaps are in line with the top edge of the chest pockets. Cuffs on the sleeves are about mid-distance to the elbow. The material folds back on itself to form the cuff. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The front jacket flap will have rectangular stitch marks with a stitched X inside where Velcro is attached to keep the flap closed. Fabric has the appearance of waxed canvas or oilskin fabric. If left arm rank bars are present, the black fabric should be similar to duvetyn type of fabric and will have 3 equidistant horizontal stitch lines through each rank bar.

Costume Name: Imperial Death Trooper Helmet: - Jintaprops web site - www.jintaprops.com, Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/share/16Ri6TC1Qz/, email – 363276386@qq.com Armor: - Jintaprops web site - www.jintaprops.com, Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/share/16Ri6TC1Qz/, email – 363276386@qq.com Belt: - Jintaprops web site - www.jintaprops.com, Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/share/16Ri6TC1Qz/, email – 363276386@qq.com

Now that I look further into it, I think the IST one is probably better. There is a lot of verbiage from the Meero on that references pants, etc. We'd have to cut that back anyways and it'd most likely end up close to the IST one. @Blackwatch if possible, can you add the bullets going forward? That will keep the stuff in the direction we want when we get down to some other items that have extra levels of detail. I think this text is good for going forward: Hat Fabric matches the tunic and pants. Base of the hat is conical, with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76.2mm) down, decorated with (5), (6), (7) or (8) concentric stitches. An Imperial Code Disk is positioned in the center of the front vertical “flap”. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Disks do not feature a notch or groove details.

We are probably going to have variants, so if we identify specific sections where there are variations we can address them there. It is probably going to be like the Mudtrooper and others, but I'll let @Dropkick and @BlacXabbath answer that as DL/XO. @Blackwatch With that hat having a higher crown, you think that is something we can address in by adding more L2 items? We may want to pull from the Dedra Meero text for the hat so that we aren't reinventing the wheel? https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Dedra_Meero

The Novatrooper Medic red has been identified as Kirsch Red from Sherwin Williams: SW6313. RGB Value: R-154 | G-70 | B-80. Pantone code: 696c. this should help. It is from the CRL.

Hi Guys, I am the DCA of the JRS that is responsible for the Infernos and have worked on the Inferno CRLs from the very beginning. It would be a pleasure for us to work together, as many members seek approval as Del and Hask, and so the CRLs in both detachments should be set up equally when it comes to all parts that can be used by both characters. After consultation with the current JRS CS, we are open to any cooperation. Dennis Opfermann TX/TI 50883

I 100% agree on sanding. I had to do this for areas of my shadow stormtrooper years ago. Obviously, if it's been painted, then you'd need to strip that and see how the plastic, but since I was working with black ABS, sanding worked great. You want to sanding pads that essentially run up to like 12000 grit. Others may have recommendations for where to start, meaning you don't have to start at the lowest grit necessarily and work your way up. You may be able to start in the middle. What I would do is find a spot that you can sand the inside of the armor or a spare piece and go through stepping up the grit until you get to that gloss finish. I will also wax mine periodically with Maguire's. Worst case scenario is you can go the paint route in the end, but it can be tough to get it even. I had an auto body shop do a different set of armor pieces to get it right.

Figured I'd start my build thread while waiting for my last few packages to arrive. The biggest challenge I'm facing at the moment is the poncho. I will very gladly take any and all recommendations on how to turn this thing black. I'm not opposed to painting it my hand if that's what it takes lol. I just don't even know where to start 😅 And if anyone has some recommendations for the armour paint in Canada, I'd really appreciate it!

Firstly, thanks. I was in love with this kit since we saw it in the teaser trailer. Its been a joy to be one the leading edge of making this. And yeah, I went aluminum bar for my struts so I could drill it without a press and bend it without having to use a blowtorch. I'll be looking into combining what we've cobbled together into a single file, as the MP 40 I used is far more complex than it needs to be for this build, and so I can model everything I've been drilling into it.

I'll give the finishing a go this weekend for a suitup and see how it looks!

Just by this picture alone, they're all different. This got me thinking, so I did a quick breakdown of the Troopers as they get off the Shuttle Ramp Trooper 1 "Benzi": Rank Stripe + Radio on the Right side of the Chest, Trooper 2: Chest Rig + Radio on the Left, Trooper 3: Different lower belt with no Chest Boxes + Radio on the Left (I think this might be the guy wearing a backpack?), Trooper 4: Chest Rig + Goggles + Backwards officer cap + Seemingly no Radio at all, Trooper 5: "Standard" + Radio on the left, Trooper 6: Missing Shoulder + Diagonal bag + Radio on the Right, Trooper 7: Beanie + Fanny Pack + Radio on the Right, Trooper 8 "Gharial": Chest Rig, Rank Stripe + Radio on the left The same configuration doesn't appear twice. I think the best approach is to do what IOC did with their CRLs for a while: If specific accessories are chosen, the whole costume is to match the appearance of a character from an LFL licensed source.

Small update! The white leather blank has arrived and I put the groves into it. It’s going to be a nice belt!

Make sure to get loads of images at troops, & post them in your recon dragons so we can use them for our social feeds.

Specifically, what changes are we talking? I'm a little confused. This is for the comic Imperial Army Trooper, not the Andor one.

So I bought these a few days ago, and I just ran them past my GML who said they were acceptable for IAT V1, so I thought I'd pass the info along on them https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5HYZRSP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Hallo Chaos Ja sollte nur als Hilfestellung sein ..... evtl habe ich da noch einige Fotos auf meinem Rechner rumfliegen

Die Schuhpanzerung habe ich von der Hot Toys, aus der Serie und von der Disney Puppe entnommen und eine für uns tragbare Version gemacht, siehe mein Baubericht. https://imgur.com/a/mVO05Fv

Sorry I’ve not been keeping up with the crl development recently, been very busy on another production, if there’s any specific outstanding questions I’m happy to answer them while I get up to speed on the thread so far

Looks fantastic!

https://imgur.com/a/Nnc8rIr https://imgur.com/a/d46AIlW https://imgur.com/a/lB5v07O Hmm ich glaub einige links funktionieren nicht

Considering that the joints were CGI'd, the way you have made your joints works. Impressive craftsmanship. We can fine tune the joints later, but I believe we are at a 98% solution for the joints.

Ok the helmet can be basic approvable. The nose bridge meets the basic CRL as it is. To be Level 2 you'd have to add an additional raised bar to the middle section. The 8 side vents would need to be drilled out so the slots are open. Then add the metal screening and black fabric backing to be basic approvable. Everything else meets basic approval.

Rubber belts done and fits and hangs really nicely.

Posterior Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Posterior armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. Is generally curved to follow and cover approximately ¾ of the wearer’s posterior area which extends up under the belt. There is a raised elongated rectangle located on the top center of the armor. A black elastic strap, approximately 1" to 1.25" (25mm to 32mm) wide, may be used to connect the cod and butt plates between the legs. That seems very simple and doesn't need a lot of crazy work to it. We don't need to worry about the channels at the top that are going to covered by the belt. I know you didn't put that in there but I see them on the photos that were provided and wanted to address it for others viewing this. I added that text in purple about the guide. I've been including it in every piece, but we may need to revisit at the end to see if it is necessary.