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Tomorrow is the big day for me! I am heading to an armor party for a suit up and to get help taking my pictures for approval. Got a checklist of everything I need and inventoried all of my stuff. I should be good to go! My next post should be the pictures I submitted for approval, and hopefully I hear back soon/quickly!

I've sent for approval! Cheers and thanks to all that helped out in this WIP thread! @RAIDER @IcyTrooper @Chaos @Blackwatch @Dropkick

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

Face fully assembled and looking lovely! Filler primer on the dome is drying now.

APPROVED! TX-17241! Now to do all of the fun access stuff on all of the forums.

Rob, you are in luck! If you have a 3D printer or access to one, you can use these files for all your pouches: 1 Updated Belt pouch covers 150x75x8.stl Belt box and or fillers 150x87x60.st Chestrig LEFT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig RIGHT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

Okay…so my bucket is…complete. Unfortunately the paint job didn’t turn out quite as good as I had hoped, and as I was finishing the final details and assembly, made a couple blemishes, but my hope is I can fix it in weathering. Anyway here are some shots of the “clean” bucket.

I’m using this for the trim on my bucket. Use the longer side on the inside of the helmet and the shorter side sits perfectly around the edge.

once i am painting, i will post it up, want to ensure its valid and viable

just an update for everyone, i am knee deep in printing all the pieces, my pants and my shirt have arrived. Its coming together quite nicely, i am almost at painting stage for my kit as well I ended up going the automotive route with the paint, so would it be something people want for me to post up the formula for the white colur i use? that way, no matter where people are in the world, an auto store can mix it up as paint for them. i think most auto stores can mix them into spray cans as well, even thogh i prefer the air brush route

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

I cant verify anywhere that the red and blue lights were ever actually turned on, i cant see them in the dark lit scenes. Do we have anything that shows them working? id like to include it but like all lights we need to see them working, like on Vader or Fett. Lets call this change log 2.0 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tannish or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor.

I've had this build happening for 2+ years, and I'm trying to wrap it up. I also have a Shadow Trooper that is 90% done, just need to do the strapping. I'm trying to get these teo done and out of the way so I can get R1TK started and have room in my work shop for when my Vader parts start arriving.

Got around to painting the grooves on the backpack today. @Chaos, how did I do on the weathered silver? I also noted as I was checking the color scheme chart that my pill on the chest was still gloss black so I repainted that with some flat black.

For your audio, are you looking for a pre-built solution, or are you willing to go homemade? If you're willing to go homemade, Adafruit has a sound FX board that can be pre-loaded with phrases and then triggered via 10 different pins. Each pin can support up to 10 different audio files that will play sequentially (first press first sound, second press second sound, etc.). They have a model that has a standard stereo jack output and another that has a small 2W amplifier built in.

Done the easy part of printing all the bits. Just the endless sanding to do.now

My pauldron came in! I just need to get together with some others to do a final suit up and take pictures. I am ready to go! One thing I did notice on my pauldron is that is should be good for basic, but I don't know that it's good enough for Level 2. There seems to be some extra stitch lines on the 4th stitch starting from the leather on both sides, the leather doesn't have the black banding (not sure what to call it) on the outside of the collar (only the inside), and the leather parts are on top of instead of on the bottom. Someone else feel free to correct me though. I may provide comments back to the seller to help them improve their product if people agree with my assessment.

Thank you for the files!!!

Going to call this one done 🙂 AGM base with 90% I'd say made from CNC's Ally - so quite happy with my first attempt at a "hero" weapon

If you haven't already, join this Facebook group and post your issue there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/iocofficersmess It's a frequent enough issue I see posted, so you should get help pretty quick.

After much internal debate, I have jumped in! I have ordered the Jinta Studio's DT armor and helmet. I hope to keep everyone updated on the process as I move along. Thanks!

Thanks, Chris! I have someone that did some printing for me to upgrade my Biker Scout, so I'll see if they can do these along with the TD supports, bicep clips, etc.

Chris, Do you have access to a 3D FPM or resin printer? If so you can use these files I used on my Jim kit. Print at 100% infill. I didn't like the shoulder and V rings. The lower side buckles are good enough, I just hollowed out the Buckle to accommodate a side strap that I made. I attached my chest rig all the time and it is heavy because I have heavy magazines in the pouches, I have never had an issue with any of it. This kit is expensive in it's basic form, metal accessories are nice to have but so not necessary! 0 Updated Shoulder Buckles and Rings 8 Feb 2021.stl 1 Side Buckle Straps 10 Feb 21.stl

That silver came out great!

Another small update on the face peices: Did some more weathering on the “weathered silver” parts to get them closer to references as they were still too shiny. Assembling the tusks, I used the same lens material as the visor, sanded the back side for some diffusion, and placed some aluminum foil behind them for a little extra reflectiveness, as I don't plan to install lights for now. Also glued in little mesh grills under the side vents.

@Bootlegger137 - I did secure mine on the backplate. The photos here seem still to work:

You mean it’s not done the same as my Biker Scout’s TD? 🤣 I think I’ll just stick with what’s known to work and use the bracket file from @DoggyDoc

Anything that would mount the TD to the belt would work. Paul's mount might need to be modified so that the mount itself sits flush against the curvature of the DT TD. Just don't use zip-ties wrapped around the TD 😄

Oh, ok. The cord reference makes sense now.

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

The blue and red rectangles on the com-pad are made of a translucent material. As I mentioned before they were intended to light up but last minute they were not illuminated for the show. But they are still transparent not a solid red or blue. Here is an image of it with the lights on.

Your list is solid. My kit is a Jimmi kit. I have made a lot of upgrades over the years. You will find his parts are slightly heavier than an ABS kit. I like that about Jim's material because ABS wouldn't stand up to the abuse I have put my armor thru. Let me know if you have any questions about anything. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Yeah, it took longer than expected, but I heard some people got them 10 months later, so... I guess I am lucky The pictures I got from the maker looked great, and he even gave me an additional blaster(small EC-17 with scope). Now all I have to do is wait for the courier. Hopefully, it arrives safely in Germany with little customs fees...

Hey Chris! Best of luck on your build! Regarding painting the kit, do NOT use Rustoleum. I had such a hard time with it creating an orange peel look that I had to take weeks off from trying to fix it. What ended up working for me was using Duplicolor Hot Rod Black spray paint, and then using 2K Clear Coat for the gloss look. It came out amazing!

@DarthBerry Very nice! This is gonna look great once the fit is situated. Looking back at your helmet pic…I would suggest looking into a different helmet bolt. Here is a pic of a more accurate “concave” look (the one you have is too thick I think and the concave area is more like a hole rather than a subtle slope).

Been very slow progress although im now nearly 2 stone lighter than I was with much more to go. Finally got a new job which while part time is better than nothing and can get full time if I really need to. Been working in parts on the armour to fit me as the prongs were now way too long , will sort sides later , so have cut them down and reshaping. Saw on an ICAT post that someone had used picture hooks to use to secure the prongs into the chest so ill be stealing that idea. I've rough cut the vents out and they will be filed down properly. My issue is with the hose connectors. I cant see anywhere and certainly not on the crl to see if they are just fitted on or if the holes inside them when looking down vertically are drilled out or just left solid. Not fussed with way and I assume if its not mentioned then the GML wont be looking for it but id like to be sure

Sharp! Well done!

nice!!

I've seen DTs with an Aker speaker in their chest armor, it did have to be positioned as to not hinder the abdomen armor. Have you thought about UKSWRATH's helmet sound system? Not sure if you have considered it but here is a video a made a few years back.

CJ, I think you may have misinterpreted what was being said. The CRL has always stated: Boots Boots are made from matte black leather or leather-like material with a capped toe and seams as seen in the photo. The sole shall have no heel. The boots extend under the shins. All fastenings/laces are hidden behind a rectangular panel made of smooth rubber or a shiny black material with approximately 1/4" (6mm) wide horizontal ribs. The side edges of the panel shall be turned back on themselves to form a smooth rib-less border. The rectangular panel extends from under the shin. For basic approval the boots have to look "similar" to the Dr Martens but only have to meet the above criteria. For Level 2, they have to either be Jareds or "replicas." OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Original Dr Martens “Jered” shoes or replicas with a leather pull tab midway on the heel. The rectangular panels shall not be wider than the width of the top of the shoe and will lay as flat as possible against the shoe with the front edge not extending past the upper and sole seam. Currently there are two makers who provide L2 approvable "replicas", Crow Props and Keep Trooping. Right now both have the boots available on their sites: https://keeptrooping.com/product/killer/ https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/deathtrooper-boots

Also the forearms/ vambraces sit approximately 1” away from the wearer arms. Padding is used inside to achieve this. They do not sit flush to the sleeve of the jacket.

yes we are still waiting. my day here is pretty doggone crazy and ive been offline for a week. can someone round up the proposals and consolidate them in the next post? we ahve been all over the place since 2023 on this, and we need focus.

Matt Tarriff linked it in onoe of his other replies , i have a topic on the forum probably in the Agent thread, and he replied. Its on Thingverse.

Next small steps as the sanding and painting of the other armor parts are ongoing. Worked a bit on the chest/back armor connection brackets from Paul's Shoretrooper. Used the following approach: Pre-drilled a hole on the back armor shoulder for one Chicago screw on each side that goes through the bracket and gets fixated from the inside. In order to eliminate the need to glue to keep it in position, I decided to use velcro, which should keep it in place alongside the Chicago screw. Installed snaps on the front side of the bracket through velcro to create the anchoring point for the chest armor. The velcro is glued with E6000. Covered the underside of the front bracket with self-adhesive velvet fabric to not only hide the aluminum bracket, but also create a softer surface. Next step it to connect the chest armor to test it out in order to determine if further trimming is needed. Photos: Chicago screw attached to back armor shoulder for bracket mounting: Gluing velcro, installing snaps for chest armor attachment: