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Thanks to all involved developing this crl!

With great satisfaction I inform you that my Mudtrooper has been approved by my Garrison! Thanks to everyone for the support!!! I made this costume trying to meet all the requirements to be a "Specialist", I hope I will succeed. In a few days I will forward the request in the appropriate section of the forum...

All opinions welcome. This is my first kit build. And am sharing along the way. Thank you all for who you are and what you do. Long Live the Empire. Hard parts “Jim Tripon” Undersuit “Jim Tripon” Gloves “Endor Finders” Belt Buckle and Wrist Rockets “Phoenix Props” And much much more TBD.

Hello again! So sorry about that delay! I have tested everything to make sure it's working again and it should be. Please work through the steps in the link below and we'll get you your access shortly! Thank you for dealing with my technical difficulties and bringing it to our attention. 🙂 -

I have my old set of coveralls for sale in the sales topics, cleared L2. If nothig else you can modify a white pair of coveralls and dye to te green shade. Im workig wth Wampawear to develop the correct green that we need, but prototyping is a VERY slow back and fort process with the manufacturers.

Hello @Sparrow_69676! I appreciate you letting us know! Let me look into it quickly and get back to you 🙂 Just to clarify, can you elaborate on what specifically isn't showing up for you? I assume you're referencing the actual forum where you need to post your access request yes?

I'm good with it and have either changed/added in purple below. Back at it again Back Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Proportional to the rest of the costume. The back armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. Back armor overlaps the abdominal armor. Back armor extends over shoulders to meet chest armor. The chest and back plate meet flush at the sides. The arm area of the back plate has a raised tapered ring that joins with a matching detail on the front armor. The collar extends upward and tapers to the chest armor. The back plate has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. The vent details above the greeblies are cut out and backed with black material matching the rest of the armor. There are roughly 8 cut out rectangles (2 rows of 4 stacked) on each side of these vent details. Each recess has a different and specific set of greeblies inside: Left side recess: A rectangle shape greeblie with an angled right side end with 5 panels. On the right side a heat sink greeblie is fitted. Right side recess: Along the top is a long thin strip with flat ends with approximately 30 cylinder shaped teeth in the middle. Along the bottom is a long thin strip that has angled ends with approximately 28 cylinder shaped teeth in the middle. Below it on the left is a rectangle shape greeblie. Approximately 1/8th of the left side is flat followed by a thin line recess and 7x3 rows of oblong-shaped indents. On the right side is a raised circular ring type hose connector. Below that, along the bottom is a long thin strip that has angled ends with approximately 28 cylinder shaped teeth in the middle. There is an oblong greeblie centered below the 2 large recesses. There is a small, raised circle greeblie centered below the oblong greeblie. Bottom left has a rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The recesses may be matte or metallic black. There are solid pauldron type shoulder armor that sit on top of each of the shoulders and extend slightly past the shoulder/bicep armor and are attached to a single point on the chest and the back armor. Shoulder armor may be stationary or pivot with shoulder movement. The attachment greeblie is present twice on each shoulder armor (front and back) and is circular in shape with a bracket shaped extension that faces outwards away from the helmet. The bracket shaped extension has four equally spaced raised edges. Within the circular greeblie there is a centered raised circle that is smaller than the circular greeblie it sits on.

and some tests of the amor with and without the soft parts and boots. https://imgur.com/a/isHshml

Detailing all looks good to me 👍

Next up: Revision 0 Back Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted IAW the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Is in proportion to the rest of the costume. Overlaps the abdominal plate. Extends over shoulders to meet chest plate. The chest and back plate meet flush at the sides. The arm area of the back plate has a raised tapered ring that joins with a matching detail on the front plate. The collar extends upward and tapers to the chest plate. The back plate has two large cut out recesses with vent details and greeblies inside. The vent details above the greeblies are cut out and backed with black material. Each recess has a different and specific set of greeblies inside: Left side recess: A rectangle shape greeblie with an angled right side end with 5 panels. On the right side a heat sink greeblie is fitted. Right side recess: Along the top is a long thin strip with flat ends with approximately 30 cylinder shaped teeth in the middle. Along the bottom is a long thin strip that has angled ends with approximately 28 cylinder shaped teeth in the middle. Below it on the left is a rectangle shape greeblie. Approximately 1/8th of the left side is flat followed by a thin line recess and 7x3 rows of oblong-shaped indents. On the right side is a raised circular ring type hose connector. Below that, along the bottom is a long thin strip that has angled ends with approximately 28 cylinder shaped teeth in the middle. There is an oblong greeblie centered below the 2 large recesses. There is a small, raised circle greeblie centered below the oblong greeblie. Bottom left has a rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. The recesses may be matte or metallic black. There are solid pauldron type shoulder plates that sit on top of each of the shoulders and extend slightly past the shoulder/bicep armor and are attached to a single point on the chest and the back armor. Shoulder plates may be stationary or pivot with shoulder movement. The attachment greeblie is present twice on each shoulder armor (front and back) and is circular in shape with a bracket shaped extension that faces outwards away from the helmet. The bracket shaped extension has four equally spaced raised edges. Within the circular greeblie there is a centered raised circle that is smaller than the circular greeblie it sits on. The back armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

Hi all, I designed and printed a Jet Pack for my Sgt. Kreel and was wondering how I could go about having it approved to wear out on troops. I based it from the comicbook stories and sized it appropriately to be functional and fit onto a regular back plate. It uses Magnets and has a safety strap fitted just in case. I also added lights to give the Blue glow and have a aurebesh S.C.A.R. recessed at the top. I know it's not on the CRL currently but wondering what the thoughts are on adding the Jetpack for these characters as an optional extra? Thanks for your consideration. Steve.

Hi guys, sorry for the late reply, I’m currently traveling out of town for work. yeah this pack was a mix of what I saw in the comics and what I thought for functionally with the thrusters (it looked weird pointing straight out) but they do swivel and can be interchanged. I do like the functionality of them being directional to be honest but happy to change if needed. The lighting can be easily altered to just be the thrusters for sure. That way the vents would just be holes. I added the Aurebesh S.C.A.R. more for a bit of fun and printed with glow in the dark filament so it glows when you come in from the light. That is a separate component so can be printed without Yes the strip on the bottom was to cover a seam that cracked open after a miss-handle. (Oops) a quick fix for something that shouldn’t be there. I won’t be able to re-model and print a new one for a week or so but if these are the go to specs I’ll get to work on doing another one for sure. Thanks again for your input and time.

You've now been given Spec Ops access. Apologies for the issues you have faced. You just hapened to be the 1st since the forum software issue caused this problem. Thanks to @J47555 for helping us through this issue. 🤘

The cutting has finally begun. Only had time for some basic trimming.

Got it! We used 59/60 for the version we did, however, we may be able to include this one on the simplicity and the fact that art wise it looks pretty consistent with those other issues. I'm at a work conference now, but should be back home tomorrow to see about a CRL item discussion.

I am so sorry for this mess. The permissions weren't correct. I've now updated it so that 501st Members can post topics. Again, I'm really sorry, it shouldn't have been this difficult.

Going back to this original question, for L2 I would want a strip of fabric covering the original button holes. L1 approval with visible button holes would be up to the GML. I have been on the line with Wampawear this morning to get the olive green (and black) Army coveralls started, but that WILL take time, and a factory time allotment, plus shpping time from overseas. Anyone who has watched the Wampa prototyping/ manufacturing/shipping process knows that this is not quick.

Small update: -Helmet: its been raining a lot up here so I haven't been able to apply the 2k clear coat on the areas I had to fix up. Hopefully this week will be less humid. -Belt: after taking a look at the belt I received, I just wasn't happy with how it was set up. So I bought a small roll of the ribbed rubber mat and cut it to the correct amount of ribs and am following the Jolly Rodgers build guide here: https://www.jollyrogers1942.com/death-trooper-build-reference.html Mainly, I didn't like how flimsy the pouches were attached to the belt, as well as the location of where to clip it together around the armor. I did craft inserts for the 3 pouches to make them look full out of spare corrugated plastic sheeting I had. -Blaster: I received the 2 missing parts from a friend in my garrison that 3D printed the inserts that were to go behind the yellow counter window and Hengstler Window. Unfortunately, while attaching the Hengstler window panel, I accidentally broke the Hengstler bracket, so now I need that reprinted. -Posterior/Cod piece armor: Finally got the right 1" elastic band to attach snaps to hold the two parts together. That's all for now, hopefully will get pictures in the next update.

Just starting to piece together an imperial trooper and this was is turning out to be very useful/informative since it doesn't seem like anyone else has done anything like this on here since you posted yours 4 years ago! thank you

Shane I just saw this! congratulations on your shadow approval!

The two holes in the middle seem a little low but they shouldn't prevent approval on it. I think the one on the far side is good.

Maintain that order!!

Hi Jakub! Good choice with MCM files for 3D printing as many people have used those for their builds. Regarding the soft parts, have you looked over the CRL for everything? It looks like the "ribs" for elbows, poncho, neckseal/apron, abs, shorts and knees have this stated: "measure approximately 3/16" to 1/4" (5-6mm) wide." The bias tape you shared looks like it could work, as there is a video showing the actual pipe to be about 1/4" wide, though its a bit hard to tell. The main thing with the whole undersuit is it is very tedious sewing to do. Have you considered reaching out to Jim Tripon on facebook for the undersuit? It could free up time for you to work on other parts of the suit if that is a factor. Also, if you take good measurements in centimeters, his suits are very reasonably priced. I got mine done by him as a 2 piece and fits me great. It took slightly less than 2 months to get it from him.

Power 5 holster arrived from Darman Props. Quality is epic but need to soften it up a bit. Will get better pic , this was taken in my works underground parking lol

I’ve done most of my work on Jim’s lot outside. I did a little in the garage and a lot on my front and back porch. You’ll likely be cutting fiberglass with a dremel. You’ll be using some strong glues. You’ll want to coat the inside of the kit with something. I’d assess if you can do those things in the areas you have. Take a look at build threads for both Jim’s kits and 850 kits. See what each person did and if you think you can make it work.

Don't forget to request detachment access

What an amazing job 🔥🔥

Woohooo congrats!

Hey there. The scout base figure was a Black Series release (in a pack w the Shadowtrooper and a black speeder bike). The pauldron was not a part of that set nor the blasters pictured.

@Chaos I'm getting those parts this Saturday at a troop from a garrison friend that 3D printed them for me. In the meantime, I managed to get the EL panels and controllers from EL Wire Craft today and managed to cut the panels into shape to fit inside the "tusks". I already put in a dark green lens I cut from a safety visor, and decided to try the panels instead of LEDs for a more uniform look. Took me about an hour to get it all done: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DBcth3sMPv8/ That glow is pretty spectacular!

@Andreas Funk Andreas, "JA" Bauen Sie Ihr Kostüm weiter so auf, dass es zu Ihnen passt. Höchstwahrscheinlich werden Sie unser CRL-Modell sein und wir werden Fotos Ihres fertigen Kostüms als CRL-Beispiele verwenden. Im Moment definieren wir lediglich, welche Details ein Kostüm haben soll. Da es sich um ein „Neu in der Legion“-Kostüm handelt, müssen wir sicherstellen, dass wir im CRL und auf den Fotos genügend Details angeben, um sicherzustellen, dass die Legion unsere Anfrage akzeptiert. Wenn ein Teil Ihres Kostüms zu irgendeinem Zeitpunkt nicht die Details aufweist, die wir in der CRL angegeben haben, lassen Sie es uns wissen und zeigen Sie uns, was Sie haben. Wir besprechen, ob wir die Details ändern oder beibehalten sollen. Ich hoffe, dass dies zur Klärung der Dinge beiträgt und Sie beruhigt. Vielen Dank, dass Sie uns dabei unterstützt haben. Wenn diese CRL genehmigt wird, wird der Dark Trooper Generation 3 genauso „krass“ sein wie der Death Trooper und der Purge Trooper Phase 2. Andreas, “YES” Continue to build your costume to fit you. Most likely you will be our CRL model, and we will use photos of your finished costume as the CRL examples. Right now, we are simply defining what details we want a costume to have. Since this is a “New to the Legion” costume we have to make sure that we provide enough details in the CRL and in the photos in order to ensure that the Legion accepts our request. If at any time a part of your costume does not have the details that we put in the CRL let us know and show us what you do have. We will discuss whether we should change or keep the details. I hope this helps to clarify things and puts you at ease. Thank you for assisting us with this. When this CRL gets approved, the Dark Trooper Generation 3 will just as “badass” as the Death Trooper and Purge Trooper Phase 2.

Well... I think this journey is pretty much over 🥲 Thank you so much for your support ❤️ Today I sent the photos to my Garrison GMLs for approval. Here are some oh them showing the full costume and weathering. I hope it will be approved as is, otherwise I will make the changes they ask me...

While waiting for good weather and low humidity, I kept working on the E-11D Blaster and I have I would say, 99% of it assembled! Anyone know what kind of black paint should be used for it (matte, flat, etc.)? The only parts I'm stuck on and need advice are for 2 sections where you could light them up. I am going the vinyl sticker route as I don't have the time or patience to do a light up blaster. This is an MCM Blaster print, but apparently, there are inserts or something that is supposed to fill the "windows" so the vinyl stickers can be added to. Unfortunately, I do not see the parts for these 2 sections in my zip file that I got when I purchased the plans. Any suggestions on what I can put in these areas so I can add the vinyl stickers?

I made a start with one of the belt pouches, To give the pouch some shape while doing the the assembly and to have some better view of the size/looks I used some cardboard as a temporary solution. I could use some insights/opinions. Is the sizing of the plate compared to the bag itself oké ? if so i will continue with al three to prepare the building of the belt.

Hi Collin. Great start. Looking forward to following your build. Always feel free to ask lots of questions. We are here to help

But there is also a good image of Kreel and Mic with their jet packs in issue 61 Thanks for getting back to me on this and thanks for the positive feedback. Glad I got another opportunity to get these out for a read!

so apparently this is likely what I used there is one pair left, size 50 green coveralls

I really like the Regal Red as well, but I'll test that and the Fire Red against the satin for contrast... (PS: I also looked closely at and wanted to do an Incinerator TK!) I see this is the paint that is preferred for satin/matte and the results on this forum look great. I'm in! Chef's armour has arrived: First question: I think I see from the approved Specialist apps and the CRL that the breastplate lower center 'notch' lands around the area of the solar plexus. Landmarking my plate like this has the yokes much too curved to sit flush (1-2" away). To get the yoke to sit flush it has to ride too high (right on the neck): Won't do anything about this yet (until the flak vest is done and overtop, that's my next project), but am I placing this wrong? Or is it normal to heat the yokes with a hairdryer etc. to mold them to the needed angles? (like I just did to create the concave surfaces of the TD caps?)

Im workigng with Gary Howe from PilotBay he has all new molds that hes pulling for me. I should be getting the box ofs tuff in the next week or so. At that point we can look at updates. I talked to wampawear this morning about this suit, he states it's cotton canvas, technically correct for the Del suit based on the research I was involved in writing the CRL document. Will these suits clear for L2 Specialist?

Sweet! Are most people printing their armor?

One boot done -- looked at a lot of patterns:

Hey everyone! I am new to this forum and am ready to begin my journey building my first kit to join the 501st. I decided that I will be making a Death Trooper, and I wanted to reach out to you guys for some help with the project. So first off - I will be 3D printing the armor myself, using the MCM STL files. I would much rather do that myself than paying someone to vacuum form it. What I wanted help with is specifically the soft parts. I wanted to sew/tailor them myself and wanted some recommendations/tips on doing it. I found a forum post titled "Tom's completed Death Trooper Costume build" that goes over some of it, but the videos that he linked no longer work. I found this piping material that I thought would work: https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Quilting-Clothing-Accessories-Wrapping/dp/B0C4YYB5PQ/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.CZQ-fOIsALRB2txXNOn1AeNKwFVuG-lqiz1AGuMxq3mmaN8GRWUBY7oPTfymPu9TCrYaHxFZyio8HTlAC-4-6g8xkALlPYLQ1KJU_nfeEb4o9T9i9PpAT7j_dqlbuM7-JuhrW6-B3yc4aeCme2ZfF9JalRJFOBnogf2zrqJE1c3c-JR1rpt9sEQrpldrnTFLYjTS47SdazRrJSg_3MMDs-VTdJfNmiGAorZwxniHGeyouHCb5dcIZzV4XHJBJKeAQ1S6VQrBKms4DAepGjGDBT1pXLwsQhG2ZrE_x1Mwyjw.a6RhTss8HsLm2Aev1-BUFhzVLxAeoF6J-IEX7oFwnfw&dib_tag=se&keywords=black%2Bpiping%2Bfor%2Bsewing&qid=1730670996&sr=8-5&th=1 I apologize if some of these questions are answered somewhere else, it has been difficult navigating all of the different forums to figure this out.

Thanks for both of your responses. If that's the case, then I think I'll commission Jim to make it so I can focus on everything else. I reached out earlier so hopefully I'll hear from him soon!

Herotek X make ready to go coveralls. Other than that you'd either have to modify an olive green coverall into the required design, or make it from scratch.

Went ahead and ordered my boots from Crow Props. I can’t wait to get this done!

my personal opinion on this It does not fall into the Special Operations part of what these troopers do. This was a detail, not thier day job.

That looks great. I thought about using EL Panels, but when I took a look at the Anovos helmet, it had the 5mm holes drilled out in the tusks and the "concept" art for the DT had the green light as a single point with radiation (like an LED) so I opted to used the LED path. We never saw the tusks illuminated in the movie or Mando series. There was a screen that was cut out when they were in the cave looking for Jyn where the tusks were lit.

Unfortunately, proportions are a thing that we have to notate and only can really drive direct lengths to L2 (Specialist) details. It'll be up to the GMLs if the details and proportions are adequate to not only the CRL text but also the photos that are on the CRL. We can only do the best that we can and cannot limit the costume to certain heights.

Small-ish update. -I got the snaps installed on the armor, just need to buy the 1" elastic for the cod piece to attach to the posterior armor. -I've also wet sanded the helmet again with 1000 grit sandpaper as I wasn't totally satisfied with the clear coat and slight orange peel look it still had. Will do the painting on the dome this Sunday since the weather looks good. I'm also waiting for a resin re-print of the Front Insert (or top most angular part of the face) as I noticed a defect on a section that didn't come out right. Once that is in my hands, and painted, I'll 2K Clear coat that and the helmet the same day. In the mean time, i've secured the middle section of the face and installed the tubes. So close to getting to wear it!

We are now live: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Imperial_security_trooper