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Heard back from my GML today, and we are officially approved!

Lets please stay on topic. This is for the CRL discusion not wips. With no further input regarding the forearms this is our final text: Forearm armor Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. Lighting is permitted but not preferred. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tan or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor. Optional level 2 details: Commpad lights are not illuminated

Nathan does an amazing job of weathering his kit. For your helmet this might help. The same technique will work for the forearm cylinders. For your armor this will help as well Ideally, you will want to use acrylic paints. This provides two benefits... it's not permanent and can be washed off if you ever want to look like you just walked out of an Emperial Quartermaster. I also highly recommend that you use flat black or the Tamiya TS40 for the recess details mentioned in the CRL. Pay attention to this because not all recesses are painted. I used the same method on mine, but instead of a brush, I used an airbrush with light gray and a damp rag to wipe down the excess wash. Best of luck and the best advice I can give you this is not like a sand trooper or mudtrooper. When it comes to weathering DTs, less is more. Keep it conservative.

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

Update! I was able to repair my back plate using mold-able epoxy putty and even get back some of the lost details in the corners. It is definitely not perfect but I'm thinking it should hopefully be good enough at least for basic. Also, my assembly of the shins has seemed to work out pretty great and those are now almost done (aside from the bottom flaps). I also went and painted almost everything in gloss black, except for the thighs which I am still assembling. Almost all the bits are painted now and currently drying/curing. Then I can go in with the metallic black on the details. I will need to decant some into a bottle so I can brush on the fine details like the grooves and such. I have started getting things strapped as well. The chest plate goes together in four places with velcro at the armpits and shoulders by the collar, which I think is looking good, what do we think?

Helmet bolts on! @RAIDER, do you have anymore edits you'd like to see?

I just got in my new boots from Keep Trooping. My old ones were a size (maybe a size and a half) too small and the tops got mangled at some point. They were authentic Doc Marten's though. In any case, having properly sized shoes has been amazing on my feet. I already moved over the gel insoles, my velcro straps for closure instead of the strings, and the metal pieces I was using to maintain the shape of the toe. I think they look pretty good! I also ordered an embroidered helmet bag as I had nothing to transport my helmet in. Nabbed some patches too and sewed them on myself. I'm considering putting one of the large back patches on the other side of the bag, either from my local squad or a larger Spec Ops patch. Next up is my application for specialist. I am trying to get everything together now, but my big miss is another suit up. Maybe at my next armor party or something!

The day is here! My 850 AW kit arrived yesterday and i spent the whole afternoon trimming. Now my thumb really hurts so ai have to take a break but I will post progress when I start assembling and gluing. I suspect I will need to do some filling with abs paste in some spots.

It is something we'll need to do on the backend via the Holocron. I'll get with @Dropkick and @BlacXabbath to show them how to do it. We were supposed to do it a month ago but my wife passed away, so Legion kind of took a back seat.

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

I finished up my mcmdesigns blaster. As usual, mcm files work great Also side note he also made files for the chest rig

Ok. But I would also add Cordura 1100 as fabric option as said most of the real world tactical Vests are made of this fabric. Here's a reference. Looks close to Canvas. Could you may post pictures of your Vest from Jim? Would really love to see it. Thank you.

I just got my vest from Jim Triipon, its his prototype new style like yours, made of heavy canvas. It also has the dropped pouches, leather, etc. Its a departure from how he used to make them and he had to send it back to his crafter a couple of times to get it right. I had him add the vertical stitches, which I feel can be an L2 item. For edification and transparency here is The original topic disucsion. There were a LOT of PMs going on between myself Anton and Maxime. They had quite the argument over the vest material and both were very stronly opinionated on its makeup. I knew absolutely noting of the character at the time, so I was going by what they were sorting out when I wrote it. Our current verbiage allows heavy canvas , here is the finished text.

@tipperaryred I'm ok with all the updates for the basic stuff that could get used by both departments for approval. Really nice work. The only thing that feels a bit nitpick is that the Vest should be the same fabric as the Suit. In real life tactical vests are made out of codura fabric and so people get forced to get a custom made vest. Many people using the Flyye Law Enforcement Vests as base and customized them to get them accurate which wouldn't be possible anymore with this restriction. So feels a bit like Gatekeeping somehow as for basic approval as the attendant needs to get a custom made vest which are not easy to get in many regions. How do you guys see it? In this screenshot you can see that the weave of the vest is not as fine as the one of the suit.

If you want to start gathering pictures of the pieces you can start mimicking the Shadow Scout CRL. We still need a full suit up w the fit perfected all 4 sides as well. On the last full suit up seeing if you can raise the belt/cod a bit. Also make sure that the bund is tucked nicely under the chest and back plates and underneath the belt (it shouldn’t show however below the belt). And then finally try to alleviate some baggy fit by pulling those pants legs down and into the boot and see if that makes the fabric a bit less loose fitting on your thighs. Getting w photo team to see how they want to collect your pictures for review/editing. Be ready and patient for this process to take a few shoots and reshoots if needed. Thanks

Mine is not showing up on my profile also. Imperial Army Trooper Andor. TK 19197. Any help would be appreciated.

Yesterday's update is the new CRL system should be fully operatioinal in a few days.

Lovely! I feel like we’ve covered it all. Are you ready to present for CRL review? @Dropkick How is that working these days as far as publishing a new CRL?

Alright, This bad boy is almost ready for a test fit. I have an event on october 18th so i hope i can make it approved in time

its been a few days with no comment. I feel we can move forward. Im ready to photograph my own del hopefully this weekend for submission.

Blasters finally came! The strap for the E-11D is coming as well! (from Imperial Arms) I would recommend the brand since the service, as well as the communication, was by far the best one I've seen for the blaster vendors. (The owner had some personal issues which delayed the production, but after the issue was resolved, everything was okay. If you wish to know detail of the blaster, just give me a chat and I will reply!) https://imgur.com/a/8vlOAlQ

I would love the files if possible. Thanks!

(No hurry at all, cut-pasting an old draft I had...) Some time ago this thread below discussed the possibility of a Weir "version 2" without bucket: ...As he appears throughout X-Wing: Rogue Leader #3 (and the action figure has a removable bucket): I'm bald, so I can help! (Do we want such a CRL?) Perhaps some modest text, modeled on Baron Fel? Face 1. Head must be clean shaven with no visible facial hair. 2. Eyes are brown. 3. Helmet will not be required if the appropriate shaven appearance is present. (Arrrg put the helmet back on!)

Thank you, I actually think it's comical when I think about being "a little short for a stormtrooper" haha! I am glad to hear there is no height requirement. Thank you for the tips on lifts and extra padding.

So mine is a wild mix of Darth Berry, Patrol Trooper, Shore Trooper and Mud Trooper parts, i know that I need to redo the back because the hose connectors are not angled. My son took the costume to Noris Force Con in Germany last weekend and had a blast. We're by far not screen accurate yet, but people were excited to see the ISB Tactical Trooper already represented at the con. It's the first armor I'm building and I'm learning a lot, I will have to redo some of the strapping.

Airsoft mags are acceptable

Hey James, Let me look into this. I see you have full detachment access here, but your request is on the legion website. I'll have a chat with @IcyTrooper to see if there is something that we can do here to help you with your request.

Everything is looking good so. Regards to the placement of your abs and lower back, best to put the top front and back armor on, the adjust the abs and back to get the correct placement

Dear all, It has been a while. Due to personal situations I had to put the build on hold. But now I've picked up where I left. I continued with the fitment of the lower portion of the armor and in the meanwhile collected the correct tools etc. I was wondering if the location of the plating is in the right position. In these pictures the crotch and butt plate pieces are not connected yet to the back/stomach plates. I started the construction of the harness for the thighs. When the harness is finished & the thighs connected I will continue with the belt. I need to learn how to sew for the pouches. Have a nice weekend! And see you in the next update!

I dont feel we need to rework things like weapons and the box. Those are ultimately optional and well described. This may wrap us up! I made some final edits to the boot text to simplify it. Boots Tall black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material . Visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boot shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap.

ive been out several days and im back now but ill be headed back out tomorrow so I want to get this put in place. Lets finish the forearms and move on. change log V2.1 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. Lighting them is permitted but not preferred. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tan or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor. Optional level 2 details: Commpad lights are not illuminated

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

Hey guys, bit of an update. Since last update, I have decided to go for the specialist version of the Death Trooper. My vest, pauldron, and ammo covers have been delivered from Jim Tripon, to which his communication and promptness with delivery I give the highest of compliments. I will have to sand down and paint the covers with gloss black which i'll hold off on doing for now. I also have spare belt pouches, though I will likely not need them as Jinta's belt comes with them. I have ordered the MP40 magazine pouches and 3d prints of the Death Trooper grenades. @AChanster has been incredibly helpful regarding information I need to know about jinta's kit. His level of detail on the ins and outs has been a tremendous boon, and has given me key details to tell Jinta before he makes the kit, he truly earns the distinction of Spec Ops. I will reach out to Jinta soon when i'm not so busy and include some details here about it. A question I have is regarding the HK G3 magazines that the specialist uses. I live in California, and it's currently illegal for me to ship the 30 round versions I was looking at here, or even own them. I noticed that the airsoft alternative is almost as cheap, and I could not find a resin cast alternative. Is it approvable to use airsoft magazines for the specialist vest?

I'm tagging @Dropkick because he is in the DL messenger group and can personally hit up the IOC DL.

Hello Spec Ops, So last time I posted I went straight into working on trimming the backplate and the front plate which was the easiest thing to do and it was recommended by Walter that the Return Edge should be ranging at around 3mm which isn’t that bad but it’s better than nothing. Now, when it comes to the back plate I had to do some modification to make it match the 3D version of the back plate but with my own taste and if anyone wants to give it a shot. So here is my backplate what it looks like untrimmed and ready to be assembled: The first thing I got to was making my own rectangular greeble(the piece that goes on the lower left of the backplate and let me tell you it was a gigantic pain in the ass since I had to make sure the rectangular area was flat as a board cut so many small plastic pieces that would make the greeble come to life and got some of my fingers stabbed and grazed my lower finger with utility scissors(it was that hectic). Images on the diameter of the greeble if anyone is curious Next was the shoulder wedges since Walter didn’t give me the shoulder wedges or doesn’t make them to begin with, I was able to get his straps. Now I did have a 3D printed version of a shoulder wedge that I will link since I made my version of the shoulder wedge with this 3D part as a template and here is what it look like as a finish product - The left side is my shoulder wedge and the right is the 3D shoulder wedge: The link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747985 Diameter of my shoulder wedge: Rear: 1mm Top and the sides : 3.4mm This is quick the center details were not that difficult where with that wooden tip I used a 3/16 wooden dowel and used about a 3 mm in length and I used a round gray plastic to make the other piece of the center details where it is between 3-4mm thick and 3.4mm long. Now this was something I had to do was made these studs looking things that are located on the upper part of the boxes where the filters would be located and there not that difficult to put in and there’s images of how thick they should be. Now here is what my back plate looks like so far and its been a tedious process but I’m almost done and soon I will be getting the side connectors from Walter soon either by next week or the week after but once the backplate is done its then on to the chest plate and creating a strapping system for the back and chest plate. However, while I wait for the side connectors I will be working on the shins and they shouldn’t be that difficult and thankfully I have the boots and I will be able to see how it goes more to come whenever I can. Also the respirator tubes are from the Sean Mudtrooper Files, the shins are also Sean Mudtrooper Files and this weekend I will have the shoulder bells and other pieces for the IST. By Next year I will be able to get the soft goods from Jim and get the biceps either from Walter or from Imperial Surplus I'll decide on that when I get closer to acquiring them.

Received the leather pouch and holster from Darman's Props. And also, a new assistant has arrived. Tom Petty said it best...the waiting is the hardest part.

If you haven't already, join this Facebook group and post your issue there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/iocofficersmess It's a frequent enough issue I see posted, so you should get help pretty quick.

Here are the V2 macrobinoculars printed at .2mm layer height. They look great! Any scratches or artifacts you see are just from the supports, I didn't do a perfect job. It has an inner and outer lip so you should be able to trim clear plastic and glue it on as a lens easy. Just let me know if you want this one and I can ship it out with the comlink.

I did a test print of the comlink - the V2 version was okay, but I adjusted a few things for V3 and reuploaded. It's available for free at the same link as before on Thingiverse. I'll print out the macros tonight, it would've been a 29 hour print with a .2mm nozzle so I've got to swap it to .4mm. I'm not going to do this costume but wanted to make sure the files print well, so if anyone is doing this costume you can shoot me a PM and I can send you the test print for V2 if you cover shipping. It's Bambu silk PLA filament on .2mm nozzle at like .14 layer height with 5% infill.

I tried another variation of the helmet bolts but I don't think my FDM 3D printed can do it justice, so I reached out to Imperial Surplus to get a set of the accurate bolts. For the boots, I added notches where the tread occurred on the boots, please let me know what you think (I'll clean up the grey overpaint soon): I also got a better suit up, I think it's looking pretty much there. I can do the belt and cod a little bit higher and the boxes a little bit wider next time.

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

Im ok with that. After spending the money on getting a new holster JUST for Del Id ike to have a E11 to carry as well as the DLT since we see him in game with the E11 a lot of the time. next are boots. Im making my suggested edits here: Boots Calf high black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material and may have tread or no tread. visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed with boot material as to not be visible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots stop just below wearers knees. Shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the wearers knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap. Boots are not shiny, they have a matte appearance.

Here's a 360 view.

RIOT HELMET (Incomplete) Just wanted to post this WIP of the riot helmet. It's coming out really nice! Only a few more parts to print.