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I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

Okay…so my bucket is…complete. Unfortunately the paint job didn’t turn out quite as good as I had hoped, and as I was finishing the final details and assembly, made a couple blemishes, but my hope is I can fix it in weathering. Anyway here are some shots of the “clean” bucket.

Face fully assembled and looking lovely! Filler primer on the dome is drying now.

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

Hey @lonnolan, Can you PM me your email address & IOC forums username? I can ask the IOC DL to look at your questions. Thanks

I'm tagging @Dropkick because he is in the DL messenger group and can personally hit up the IOC DL.

Hello Spec Ops, So last time I posted I went straight into working on trimming the backplate and the front plate which was the easiest thing to do and it was recommended by Walter that the Return Edge should be ranging at around 3mm which isn’t that bad but it’s better than nothing. Now, when it comes to the back plate I had to do some modification to make it match the 3D version of the back plate but with my own taste and if anyone wants to give it a shot. So here is my backplate what it looks like untrimmed and ready to be assembled: The first thing I got to was making my own rectangular greeble(the piece that goes on the lower left of the backplate and let me tell you it was a gigantic pain in the ass since I had to make sure the rectangular area was flat as a board cut so many small plastic pieces that would make the greeble come to life and got some of my fingers stabbed and grazed my lower finger with utility scissors(it was that hectic). Images on the diameter of the greeble if anyone is curious Next was the shoulder wedges since Walter didn’t give me the shoulder wedges or doesn’t make them to begin with, I was able to get his straps. Now I did have a 3D printed version of a shoulder wedge that I will link since I made my version of the shoulder wedge with this 3D part as a template and here is what it look like as a finish product - The left side is my shoulder wedge and the right is the 3D shoulder wedge: The link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747985 Diameter of my shoulder wedge: Rear: 1mm Top and the sides : 3.4mm This is quick the center details were not that difficult where with that wooden tip I used a 3/16 wooden dowel and used about a 3 mm in length and I used a round gray plastic to make the other piece of the center details where it is between 3-4mm thick and 3.4mm long. Now this was something I had to do was made these studs looking things that are located on the upper part of the boxes where the filters would be located and there not that difficult to put in and there’s images of how thick they should be. Now here is what my back plate looks like so far and its been a tedious process but I’m almost done and soon I will be getting the side connectors from Walter soon either by next week or the week after but once the backplate is done its then on to the chest plate and creating a strapping system for the back and chest plate. However, while I wait for the side connectors I will be working on the shins and they shouldn’t be that difficult and thankfully I have the boots and I will be able to see how it goes more to come whenever I can. Also the respirator tubes are from the Sean Mudtrooper Files, the shins are also Sean Mudtrooper Files and this weekend I will have the shoulder bells and other pieces for the IST. By Next year I will be able to get the soft goods from Jim and get the biceps either from Walter or from Imperial Surplus I'll decide on that when I get closer to acquiring them.

Received the leather pouch and holster from Darman's Props. And also, a new assistant has arrived. Tom Petty said it best...the waiting is the hardest part.

If you haven't already, join this Facebook group and post your issue there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/iocofficersmess It's a frequent enough issue I see posted, so you should get help pretty quick.

Here are the V2 macrobinoculars printed at .2mm layer height. They look great! Any scratches or artifacts you see are just from the supports, I didn't do a perfect job. It has an inner and outer lip so you should be able to trim clear plastic and glue it on as a lens easy. Just let me know if you want this one and I can ship it out with the comlink.

I did a test print of the comlink - the V2 version was okay, but I adjusted a few things for V3 and reuploaded. It's available for free at the same link as before on Thingiverse. I'll print out the macros tonight, it would've been a 29 hour print with a .2mm nozzle so I've got to swap it to .4mm. I'm not going to do this costume but wanted to make sure the files print well, so if anyone is doing this costume you can shoot me a PM and I can send you the test print for V2 if you cover shipping. It's Bambu silk PLA filament on .2mm nozzle at like .14 layer height with 5% infill.

I reached out to Jintalol about two weeks ago, and he said the kit would still take about another month. I expect another update or shipping info around September 15th.

I would like to agree abide by the terms and conditions and ask if it would be possible to use them ?

Thanks, Chris! I have someone that did some printing for me to upgrade my Biker Scout, so I'll see if they can do these along with the TD supports, bicep clips, etc.

Chris, Do you have access to a 3D FPM or resin printer? If so you can use these files I used on my Jim kit. Print at 100% infill. I didn't like the shoulder and V rings. The lower side buckles are good enough, I just hollowed out the Buckle to accommodate a side strap that I made. I attached my chest rig all the time and it is heavy because I have heavy magazines in the pouches, I have never had an issue with any of it. This kit is expensive in it's basic form, metal accessories are nice to have but so not necessary! 0 Updated Shoulder Buckles and Rings 8 Feb 2021.stl 1 Side Buckle Straps 10 Feb 21.stl

I tried another variation of the helmet bolts but I don't think my FDM 3D printed can do it justice, so I reached out to Imperial Surplus to get a set of the accurate bolts. For the boots, I added notches where the tread occurred on the boots, please let me know what you think (I'll clean up the grey overpaint soon): I also got a better suit up, I think it's looking pretty much there. I can do the belt and cod a little bit higher and the boxes a little bit wider next time.

I finished up my mcmdesigns blaster. As usual, mcm files work great Also side note he also made files for the chest rig

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

Im ok with that. After spending the money on getting a new holster JUST for Del Id ike to have a E11 to carry as well as the DLT since we see him in game with the E11 a lot of the time. next are boots. Im making my suggested edits here: Boots Calf high black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material and may have tread or no tread. visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed with boot material as to not be visible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots stop just below wearers knees. Shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the wearers knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap. Boots are not shiny, they have a matte appearance.

I've sent for approval! Cheers and thanks to all that helped out in this WIP thread! @RAIDER @IcyTrooper @Chaos @Blackwatch @Dropkick

Here's a 360 view.

i think thats the easiest and most practical solution. I know from scaling a bunch of (actually 30 of them) pirate hook STLs for my CO I had to make a bunch of adapter rings and I had to keep playing with the percentage until I got something like 87.7% size to where it would actually FIT the thing