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Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Nathan does an amazing job of weathering his kit. For your helmet this might help. The same technique will work for the forearm cylinders. For your armor this will help as well Ideally, you will want to use acrylic paints. This provides two benefits... it's not permanent and can be washed off if you ever want to look like you just walked out of an Emperial Quartermaster. I also highly recommend that you use flat black or the Tamiya TS40 for the recess details mentioned in the CRL. Pay attention to this because not all recesses are painted. I used the same method on mine, but instead of a brush, I used an airbrush with light gray and a damp rag to wipe down the excess wash. Best of luck and the best advice I can give you this is not like a sand trooper or mudtrooper. When it comes to weathering DTs, less is more. Keep it conservative.

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

I finished up my mcmdesigns blaster. As usual, mcm files work great Also side note he also made files for the chest rig

Hey James, Let me look into this. I see you have full detachment access here, but your request is on the legion website. I'll have a chat with @IcyTrooper to see if there is something that we can do here to help you with your request.

Everything is looking good so. Regards to the placement of your abs and lower back, best to put the top front and back armor on, the adjust the abs and back to get the correct placement

Dear all, It has been a while. Due to personal situations I had to put the build on hold. But now I've picked up where I left. I continued with the fitment of the lower portion of the armor and in the meanwhile collected the correct tools etc. I was wondering if the location of the plating is in the right position. In these pictures the crotch and butt plate pieces are not connected yet to the back/stomach plates. I started the construction of the harness for the thighs. When the harness is finished & the thighs connected I will continue with the belt. I need to learn how to sew for the pouches. Have a nice weekend! And see you in the next update!

I dont feel we need to rework things like weapons and the box. Those are ultimately optional and well described. This may wrap us up! I made some final edits to the boot text to simplify it. Boots Tall black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material . Visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boot shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap.

ive been out several days and im back now but ill be headed back out tomorrow so I want to get this put in place. Lets finish the forearms and move on. change log V2.1 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. Lighting them is permitted but not preferred. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tan or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor. Optional level 2 details: Commpad lights are not illuminated

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

Hey guys, bit of an update. Since last update, I have decided to go for the specialist version of the Death Trooper. My vest, pauldron, and ammo covers have been delivered from Jim Tripon, to which his communication and promptness with delivery I give the highest of compliments. I will have to sand down and paint the covers with gloss black which i'll hold off on doing for now. I also have spare belt pouches, though I will likely not need them as Jinta's belt comes with them. I have ordered the MP40 magazine pouches and 3d prints of the Death Trooper grenades. @AChanster has been incredibly helpful regarding information I need to know about jinta's kit. His level of detail on the ins and outs has been a tremendous boon, and has given me key details to tell Jinta before he makes the kit, he truly earns the distinction of Spec Ops. I will reach out to Jinta soon when i'm not so busy and include some details here about it. A question I have is regarding the HK G3 magazines that the specialist uses. I live in California, and it's currently illegal for me to ship the 30 round versions I was looking at here, or even own them. I noticed that the airsoft alternative is almost as cheap, and I could not find a resin cast alternative. Is it approvable to use airsoft magazines for the specialist vest?

Hey @lonnolan, Can you PM me your email address & IOC forums username? I can ask the IOC DL to look at your questions. Thanks

I'm tagging @Dropkick because he is in the DL messenger group and can personally hit up the IOC DL.

Hello Spec Ops, So last time I posted I went straight into working on trimming the backplate and the front plate which was the easiest thing to do and it was recommended by Walter that the Return Edge should be ranging at around 3mm which isn’t that bad but it’s better than nothing. Now, when it comes to the back plate I had to do some modification to make it match the 3D version of the back plate but with my own taste and if anyone wants to give it a shot. So here is my backplate what it looks like untrimmed and ready to be assembled: The first thing I got to was making my own rectangular greeble(the piece that goes on the lower left of the backplate and let me tell you it was a gigantic pain in the ass since I had to make sure the rectangular area was flat as a board cut so many small plastic pieces that would make the greeble come to life and got some of my fingers stabbed and grazed my lower finger with utility scissors(it was that hectic). Images on the diameter of the greeble if anyone is curious Next was the shoulder wedges since Walter didn’t give me the shoulder wedges or doesn’t make them to begin with, I was able to get his straps. Now I did have a 3D printed version of a shoulder wedge that I will link since I made my version of the shoulder wedge with this 3D part as a template and here is what it look like as a finish product - The left side is my shoulder wedge and the right is the 3D shoulder wedge: The link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747985 Diameter of my shoulder wedge: Rear: 1mm Top and the sides : 3.4mm This is quick the center details were not that difficult where with that wooden tip I used a 3/16 wooden dowel and used about a 3 mm in length and I used a round gray plastic to make the other piece of the center details where it is between 3-4mm thick and 3.4mm long. Now this was something I had to do was made these studs looking things that are located on the upper part of the boxes where the filters would be located and there not that difficult to put in and there’s images of how thick they should be. Now here is what my back plate looks like so far and its been a tedious process but I’m almost done and soon I will be getting the side connectors from Walter soon either by next week or the week after but once the backplate is done its then on to the chest plate and creating a strapping system for the back and chest plate. However, while I wait for the side connectors I will be working on the shins and they shouldn’t be that difficult and thankfully I have the boots and I will be able to see how it goes more to come whenever I can. Also the respirator tubes are from the Sean Mudtrooper Files, the shins are also Sean Mudtrooper Files and this weekend I will have the shoulder bells and other pieces for the IST. By Next year I will be able to get the soft goods from Jim and get the biceps either from Walter or from Imperial Surplus I'll decide on that when I get closer to acquiring them.

Received the leather pouch and holster from Darman's Props. And also, a new assistant has arrived. Tom Petty said it best...the waiting is the hardest part.

If you haven't already, join this Facebook group and post your issue there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/iocofficersmess It's a frequent enough issue I see posted, so you should get help pretty quick.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

Here are the V2 macrobinoculars printed at .2mm layer height. They look great! Any scratches or artifacts you see are just from the supports, I didn't do a perfect job. It has an inner and outer lip so you should be able to trim clear plastic and glue it on as a lens easy. Just let me know if you want this one and I can ship it out with the comlink.

I did a test print of the comlink - the V2 version was okay, but I adjusted a few things for V3 and reuploaded. It's available for free at the same link as before on Thingiverse. I'll print out the macros tonight, it would've been a 29 hour print with a .2mm nozzle so I've got to swap it to .4mm. I'm not going to do this costume but wanted to make sure the files print well, so if anyone is doing this costume you can shoot me a PM and I can send you the test print for V2 if you cover shipping. It's Bambu silk PLA filament on .2mm nozzle at like .14 layer height with 5% infill.

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

Im ok with that. After spending the money on getting a new holster JUST for Del Id ike to have a E11 to carry as well as the DLT since we see him in game with the E11 a lot of the time. next are boots. Im making my suggested edits here: Boots Calf high black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material and may have tread or no tread. visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed with boot material as to not be visible. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boots stop just below wearers knees. Shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the wearers knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap. Boots are not shiny, they have a matte appearance.

i think thats the easiest and most practical solution. I know from scaling a bunch of (actually 30 of them) pirate hook STLs for my CO I had to make a bunch of adapter rings and I had to keep playing with the percentage until I got something like 87.7% size to where it would actually FIT the thing