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  1. are we satisffied with the proposal above? id like to move on.
    3 points
  2. Looking good Trooper. Yes, the DT is a very warm and motion limiting armor kit. I have fans in my helmet; Additionally, I used a construction helmet liner to provide more air flow around my head. Most people complain about the range of motion in their upper legs and pinching between the thigh armor and cod piece. You can make the gap bigger between the thighs and cod piece by determining how much of a gap you need and trimming that amount off the top of the thighs. When you trim the top of the thighs, follow the shape all the way around so the appearance of the thighs shape remains the same. If you are getting binding or limited range of motion in your knee area, you can cut an additional amount off the top of the thighs and raise up the thigh armor, this will increase the knee gap enough to allow for a greater range of motion. I am not sure how your torso armor is strapped but if you are having issues turning your upper torso, a way to increase the range of motion is to have the chest and back separate from the lower back and abdomen armor strapping. This will allow your upper body to twist and the lower armor to stay in place. Issues occur with the helmet hitting the neck collar in the back when looking up. There is not much to do about that other than either making sure the collar is as close to your neck so that the helmet opening allows the collar to rise into the helmet opening. Or you can trim the neck collar's edge down some to give you more of a gap. It took me almost twelve troops and experimentation to get all my armor strapped and sized so it gives me enough freedom of movement to walk up and down stairs, climb onto parade trailers, and be able to actually sit down. Even to this day I am still tweaking mt DT set up. Shins, if clam shelled, definitely need a locking type closure. I use Velcro along the vertical split on mine and it works perfectly.
    2 points
  3. Greetings. I'm brand new to cosplaying, but I've always wanted to build some Star Wars outfit. I naively decided to make a Death Trooper outfit. It's just black right? 😝 I bought some STLs for the helmet, armour and a E-11D Stormtrooper Blaster from GA and started printing. I'm printing the parts on a Voron 2.4 350 using ABS and a layer height of 0,12mm, so that I can reduce the layer lines a bit. So far, I've printed the top of 1/2 of the helmet and the mandible and I'm busy printing the sides and the back. I saw an interesting technique called vapour smoothing, which I want to try, but I'm willing to "Learn to Love Sanding™. Any tips, tricks or other advice will be much appreciated.
    2 points
  4. Hi Chris, We will get together to get this sorted for you. Please be patient & we will have you sorted as soon as we can arrange the meetup. Thanks
    2 points
  5. Sounds good. Thanks for your understanding.
    2 points
  6. Armour fits a lot better. Can now get in it with the mpsb straps and buckles with loads of overlap at the side. So need to clean with degreaser and then sort out the picture hooks to secure the horn fronts , glue straps at back , then Velcro on the buckle and chest. Still a ways to go but getting there with the v2 once the above clears
    1 point
  7. Bit wary of submitting this as dont like how I look even with the weight off that I have so far but here goes. Still on the fence with the armour but just wanna clear the v1 at first.. anyway here goes , be kind lol
    1 point
  8. For the heat, do you have fans in the helmet? That's a must. For your torso, you may have to invest in an ice vest to help keep cool. I did and it definitely helps take the edge off. I got mine from Polar Products brand and it came with 9 reusable ice packs. Depending on how hot it is and if you're inside vs outside, they can last a few hours.
    1 point
  9. @DoggyDocFor some reason, I was having some issues last night. I got it to work now.
    1 point
  10. I'll sort one when I get back to my laptop 👍
    1 point
  11. I have been following along in the FB messages and I am so sorry for your loss. I actually posted the request there to have another set of eyes as I knew you had a lot going on. After looking at @Andreas Funk's photos and videos, his armor may make the mark for the CRL so we may not have to wait on someone to build a kit and this CRL approval may go quickly once we get the wording completed. I am still building mine with 3D FDM and Resin printers so its taking a while. Plus once I get mine finished I will have to figure out how to send it back to the USA when I leave my job. Good to see you getting back into things, if you ever need anything send me a message.
    1 point
  12. Thank you for following up, let me know when its cleared.
    1 point
  13. You may find this guys' 3D printed Death Trooper build videos helpful. He used the MCM Designs files for his kit. It helped my build a lot:
    1 point
  14. Do we have a post that has a summary of all the changes? Usually I know that is on the first page, but I'd assume that the final stuff is going to be posted in one post towards the end?
    1 point
  15. lol, I'm busy watching M.M.'s Prop shop, and she just mentioned her foot sander. I'm going to try the ABS slurry post-processing first and if that fails, go through the multi-stage sanding steps. Here are the side and back pieces of the helmet.
    1 point
  16. Thanks, I missed out the E+D, but luckily I bought the correct STL. I thought it was all going to be shiny black when I purchased the STLs, but then saw it was more than just glossy black, so that comment was more tongue in cheek.
    1 point
  17. Welcome Rudi. you have picked a great costume. Take your time and ask lots of questions. for vapour smoothing, It looks like a neat technique but from what I have seen, you will still need to sand some. I have recently seen people using Bondo/Acetone wash that is painted onto the armour. It appears to do a great job smoothing out the print lines but will affect fine detailed areas. Thankfully, the death trooper does not have a lot of fine details except for around the muzzle. I recently purchased an electric foot sander from Amazon. It is a small circular sanding disc and it makes sanding so much easier for larger areas. I look forward to following your build.
    1 point
  18. The blaster for death troopers is actually an E11-D. It’s a different build than the standard e11 the storm troopers have. not all of the DT is just regular black. The CRL has a paint guide and it’s all listed as gloss black with metallic black TS-40 and flat black on the helmet with weathered silver. The rest of the armor is gloss black
    1 point
  19. No worries mate, that's why this is a team job! Will be great to finally have the update ready to go now.
    1 point
  20. i can make that change. Sorry, had a busy weekend and didnt get back to this. I can update the finalied text with Daniels proposal.
    1 point
  21. We will working on it! Please be patient!
    1 point
  22. It is something we'll need to do on the backend via the Holocron. I'll get with @Dropkick and @BlacXabbath to show them how to do it. We were supposed to do it a month ago but my wife passed away, so Legion kind of took a back seat.
    1 point
  23. This just in today: https://www.instagram.com/armoryshop_official/p/DPMfw7GiMr7/ This was followed up by a post advertising a Phase 2 Cody helmet. So, It's unclear if they will begin producing the kits they did prior to the shutdown. It seems as though they'll now be known as "RAWWWGEMS Studio." "The forge is relit. A new dawn for our studio. Hey everyone. It’s been three years since you last heard from us - and that’s a long silence. We owe you an honest explanation. I’m Artem, the new owner of this studio. When I stepped in, I didn’t realize how many unfinished orders and unresolved problems were left behind. Some of you never got the helmets you paid for. Finding that out was tough, and it’s not how I imagined starting this journey. Over these years, my small team and I kept quiet because we wanted to focus on the work. We’ve been improving our painting, getting better at casting, and pushing our 3D-printing to the next level. We didn’t want to come back with words - we wanted to come back with results. We can’t change the past, but we can make it right. Everyone affected will be part of a compensation program with big discounts on our new products. That’s our promise. This isn’t just a business for us. We love creating helmets and props from Star Wars and other worlds - and now we’re starting fresh under a new name that reflects that passion: RAWWWGEMS Studio The workshop is alive again. New projects are already on the way, and we’re excited to finally share them with you. Thanks for sticking with us - the journey continues."
    1 point
  24. Sorry been super busy at work the last few, if you still need pictures of the strapping I can get them next weekend, in other updates my armour arrived from imperial surplus so will be getting that together soon
    1 point
  25. printed in silver silk you are great for scratches to show through as they wear in
    1 point
  26. Scous are great, and trimming isnt bad. I acually use a belt sande and scribe and snap method for most of my armor, and i much prefer to buy raw untrimmed armor. Scouts are a fun build and other than the trimming all the sewing , building the boots and the helmet assembly I can do one in a long day. I paint what needs to be painted first and let that dry while Im working on the other stuff. Make sure you have your bund on hand thats going to help with your fitting. Remember, the belt is worn low on the hips, not up on your gut. Im GML here and my recent applicant kept hiking his way up on his gut like a belt to hold his pants up. start a WIP here so we can guide you,and my advice to you would be to build it to the L2 Speciast Level from the outset so you can get specialist approval here after basic approval.
    1 point
  27. I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. I've also been working on and off on patterns for the trooper, the pants are simple, a straight legged jean, using double stitching throughout all seams with specifically the back of the pants being laid over the front on the side seams, with a panel about 1/2" away from the in and out seam of the leg and around 11", based on what I've seen, long. I wish you luck on your journey!
    1 point
  30. Hi Fernando Welcome to the spec opf forum. Can you also head over to the Spec Ops recruits section and make a post there, so we make sure you are set up with the correct permissions. The coat is an original desing, and doesnt share much in common at all with a BDU coat. And i have a LOT of BDU coats leftove from my service days. I dont know of a pattern for it, and people have been making them from scratch. I know Sheev's Emporium has posted all their research on their FB page, and JimTripon JImmiroqui and KeepTrooping are offering them for sale. I would be inclined to say its pretty simple but I know its not, because in all our research on it, there are features that are blended from othe military blouses over time. The coat hoooks on the sides to hold the belt, the mandarin collar, the cut of the sleeves, its a custom job. You COULD start with a simple jacket patttttern like farm chore coat or even a long sleeve shirt pattern and work ack from that, keepiing in mind the overlap similar to a BDU coat, the blouses featured a back yoke which is easy to see on the green uniforms. You can take a look at a very early sketch a tailor worked out in a post on this page .
    1 point
  31. oh ok, yeah basicilly we have not got to it yet. Once Staff is ready to adress it we will start a new topic.
    1 point
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