Darth Emphatic

Ok, that is adorable!

Dominic, just checking in to see how things are going. Hoping everything is still moving along.

I really appreciate the skill here. I don't have it (or the patience ) so I always love seeing someone that can start from scratch like this.

That makes a lot of sense. I bet it looks way more 'natural'

What kind of power performance are you getting with those? How long can you keep everything lit on the packs you are running?

Think you'll get the shine you need out of the sanding or are you planning on painting?

Welcome Bernardo. Chef will get you well taken care of. Ask any questions that pop up along the way.

Ha, well a whole different problem, now isn't it . I actually had to solve that problem with the same padding. You only really need the padding in a few places. On top, forehead, and sides are the key area. I found that I had a lot of unnecessary padding so where I needed to thicken it up, I took the pieces I pulled out and glued them on top of the ones that were already there.

Congrats! Getting through those first few troops are great learning experiences. You find out all the stuff you want to improve on your armor

Honestly, I have the same padding, and what I found was that I didn't need to remove it all. Figure out where it is hititng the most and remove those pieces. Just exacto the shares out. Since they are broken up that way already, it makes it really easy. I don't have a handy picture of mine, but I remove some padding from the sides and forehead and then it fit like a glove. I'd go that route before spending the money on something else. It usually just a matter of getting it all sitting right.

I've seen plans for them, actually have a picture lying around somewhere of a good holder. Should be really easy to make with a piece of leather.

Piece of cake!

That looks sweet!

Nice update, Ty!

I'd stick with green. I like the look. Looking forward to this one.

Don't let Griffin-X hear you call me that I just do all the work so Jim can take the credit... just joking. It's not even close, trust me

I almost want to buy it just to hold it, but alas...

QUESTIONS! 1) Since I'm aiming for the Nova Elite "Specialist" title, is there something special I should know BEFORE beginning to assemble the armor (like the need to use specific rivets, webbing, or whatever)? I've read the thread for the "Specialist' requirements (like closed side gaps, etc) but I was looking for more technical aspects, during the build itself A pair up of the threads you read and the main CRL for the Nova Elite will provide what you need. Have you reviewed the CRL on http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_novatrooper_elite 2) Should I paint the gold on the pieces that requires it BEFORE assembly or after? I would say it depends on the piece and how you are assembling. Will your biceps or forearms come apart or be permanently affixed? You will definitely want to wait to paint until you have trimmed everything for assembly. If permanently connecting pieces, I would paint before connecting. If not, than it doesn't really matter 3) What method or product should I use to get the BLACK parts of my armor to get ultra-shiny? Do people use clearcoat? mostly, just applying a clear coat to the dull black ends up not looking quite right. It is better to actually prime and then paint with a gloss or semi-gloss black. I've never been good at painting, but we have other troopers here that can recommend the best methods there. 4) With my armor was bundled a bottle of 'Novus 2, fine scratches remover'. Is that the BEST product to get rid of scratches on plastic? I tried it on a small piece and I didn't see any difference!It can depend on the scratches you have. I've found that most minor scratches can be polished out with super fine (15000 grade) sand paper. Now, my armor is finished plastic, not painted, but even paint at that grade paper (up to 20,000) can give you a restored finish. What I've found to work best for actual scratches is Turtle Wax Color Match Scratch Remover. They sell it on Amazon. Depending on your finish, different products have better results. 5) With scratches in mind, would it be a good idea to mask or wrap every parts before handling them? Usually the pieces aren't this delicate and believe me, once you are trooping in it regularly, pieces are going to rub and bang and you are going to dull areas and it will require maitenance...maintaining your armor (and upgrading) is an ongoing process. I use pillow cases to wrap various sections of my armor, but its grouped, not like every piece. You'll be wearing this in action, so it will be good to get used to it taking a little beating 6) How deep of a scratch is 'Novus 2' supposed to be able to remove? Does this weaken the plastic? I wouldn't say it weakens to any degree that you would notice. It will really only deal with light scratches. Deeper scratches will need some stronger work. 7) Since 'Novus 2' was bundled with my kit, can I assume that my armor is ABS? or could it be HIPS regardless? Actually, if somebody could help me figure out who's the maker of my armor, that would be awesome I was looking at the picture, but they are bit too far away to really tell for my eye. Was the bucket with the kit. If so, take a close up of the bucket front, of the back armor and of the calves and I should have a decent idea. The thickness really gives away whether it is HIPS or ABS. ABS is thicker and when you try and bend an individual piece against its curve, it won't give that much. HIPS will give a lot more. 8) I read somewhere that the sniper plate and thigh ammo pack should NOT be attached with rivets for the "specialist". Is that true? If so, what is the right way to attach those? Correct, if going for specialist, no rivets should be used. Any method that won't show the fixture method will work for attaching these. My blackhole is not specialist and is riveted, so I can't recommend a method I used. 9) The MP40 pouch I have has 4 compartments but all the 501st pictures I've seen shows only 3 compartments.. Do I need to modify my pouch? (I want to buy, for the second pouch, the Roadblock, so that I can carry wallet, cellphone etc) From an accuracy standpoint, these are based German MP-40 ammo pouches which are specifically 3 pouches, though sometimes a forth exists, smaller, lower, and on one side. Every approved Nova Trooper Elite I have ever seen is 3 pouches. I know the CRL doesn't explicitly say 3, but that's the direction you should go. 10) Where do you guys get your snaps, for snap plates? it looks like the one I have aren't "long" enough to get a good crimp on my snap plates! Tandy Leather is the place to go. See if you have one near you. If not, you can order from their site.

Awesome man. Should hide the undersuit logo Any thoughts to adding some blood to the mask itself. Might be a nice touch, though, I am not familiar with the requirements.

Hey Matthew. Welcome. Make sure to post up an intro thread. We'd love to hear more about you.

I agree with what everyone is saying. Before you up and sell the kit, make sure you are touch with your garrison out there and take the kit to at least one armor party so other troopers can talk about the armor with you. I know it seems intimidating at first, but anyone can really do it with a little time.

I don't think that is a standard issue flak vest

It's a fine line to walk. If you aren't selling kits and you are making your own molds off of what you have, but improving them, shouldn't be a huge deal.

Here is to another soon to be spec ops trooper!

Beren, glad the boiling method at least worked a little. It creates much more even heating. Same can be said for the oven. I've been able to tint before after the cooling and bubbling, but I was able to do it on the inside, not having to deal with the outside.