RAIDER

Find the most recent and updated version of the First Order Elite Stormtrooper CRL in English at the link below: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_TFA_elite

Star Wars Galaxies Video Game:

Pinning @Avatar190. Thanks!

@THECAPTAIN exactly as Icy said. There shouldn't be any intentional weathering on the armor. Do not add metallic weathering of any sort. That should not be approvable. My suggestion is to take your photos for Specialist approval before you troop in it and to do Specialist requirements from the very beginning of your build so you don't have to go back and undo/redo anything. The differences between the 2 are minor if you work on them from the start.

Alot of these are more than what you would need...but here are 2" cotton: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=2+inch+cotton+webbing+black&crid=1QTERQJYTLL3D&sprefix=2+cotton+webbing+b%2Caps%2C155&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_18

Hey @Fivezero how is progress on this amigo?

Me too lol. But if you want to just take the original CRL...copy that in a thread and then make adjustments to Level 1 (highlight them in green or yellow) and then add Level 2 (in blue) we can get eyes on it and cleanup the text from there.

Overall sounds good. Level 2 is shooting for that higher level of accuracy...for that, I think we can leave the pouch off if it's only seen on action figures. Stick to the screen-used references...maybe stretch it to BF2 at most (I don't see us creating a separate BF2 Flametrooper CRL). Other than that, I think you all are on the right track. Just need someone to step up and draft the update proposal. So who's up for it??? ?

The material (which was listed in our original CRL version) was a bull denim...but you can reach out to @rickyboyblue or @merkava74 to see what materials were used on their tunics as we just approved them for Level 2 Specialist.

Version 4 variant live.

Medic variant live.

Blacklisted vendor. Post locked.

Edits made. Please review. @Blackwatch Regarding the detonator, which screw are you suggesting be renamed to "countersunk"? The V-head?

We will be publishing the medic variant this week as a tabbed "Version 3" of the main Mudtrooper CRL. While only one can be selected, I'd like to say hank you to everyone who submitted and and presented their builds for the CRL.

LMOs determined that this is a disguise costume and as such will not be permitted as a stand-alone CRL named "Mudtrooper Val." However, we are permitted to add the trooper type as a Mudtrooper tabbed version. This will be published as "Version 4." Any unique parts to this build will be added to the main CRL and specified as being allowed for this version only. Requesting LMO unlock of CRL for publishing and addition. Thanks for everyone's work on this.

@IcyTrooper @Janem @Blackwatch

SHADOW STORMTROOPER CRL UPDATE PROPOSAL by @NINJAM0VE now open for discussion w/ highlighted proposals in GREEN. Thank you Dennis for kicking this discussion and process off. The primary purpose of this is to clarify details of the build and embed our Level 2 Specialist requirements into the CRL itself (which currently isn't the case). Feel free to provide input, suggestions, and feedback. We will leave this thread open for 1 month before moving to publish. See below... MEMBERSHIP REVIEW PERIOD WILL END on 10/3/19. Helmet • Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke, dark green or silver. • The body of the "ears" can either be black or gray. The bars have three or four bumps and can be left the same color as the body or painted black. • The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable colors are black, gray or silver. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. • The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. • Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) can be black or painted silver. • The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can either be silver or black. The interior of the aerator can either be white, silver or black. • Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals. Acceptable colors are black or gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted black. • Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. The screen in the aerator tips shall be painted silver and the interior of the aerator tip shall be painted white or black. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. • Traps/tears shall be hand painted or decals in black or gray and shall have the correct details similar to the ANH TK. • Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile. Neck Seal • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zipper or logos. Shoulder Straps • These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with rivets, velcro or adhesive. • The rear tab of the strap is optional and may or may not be present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front • These shall need to be held down in the back with a black elastic band to the black fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back armor. • These shall be glued in front. • The rear tab of the strap shall be removed same as the TKs seen in ANH movie. Shoulder Armor • One on each shoulder. • The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. • Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Bicep • Biceps are fully closed. • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. • There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width. Forearms • Forearms are fully sealed and closed. • Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. • There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms. Hand Plates • Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted black and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Gloves • Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor • Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • The chest plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). • Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Back Armor • Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • The back plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Abdomen Armor • The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 gloss black buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than ½” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. • Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 3/8" (10mm) from the edge. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. • A single male snap on the top right of the corner of the ab plate shall be present and painted black. • A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate and painted black. It does not need to be functional. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). • Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. Kidney Armor • The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out the depth of the armor and about 3/8" (10mm) from the edge. They should be aligned horizontally with the three rivets on the ab plate. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. • Cut-out notches at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 7/8" ( 22mm) tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate. Posterior Armor • The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style)or two pieces (ANH style). • If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. • The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab that are painted black. Snaps do not need to be functional. Belt • The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt. • The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3" to 3.5” (75mm-90mm) wide. • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. • The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. • Drop boxes must be attached using black elastic and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. • Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Thermal Detonator • (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. • Detonator consists of a painted black cylinder with 2” (50mm) to 2.68” (68mm) in diameter with black end caps on each end and a black control panel pad. The black control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. • The total length is approximately 7.50” (190.5mm). • No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. • The detonator is attached to the black canvas belt with 1” (25mm) black or silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. • Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. • Belt clips shall be made of metal and can be either silver or black. Holster • It is made of black leather or leather-like material. • It is worn on the left side of the canvas belt and is attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the canvas belt from behind. Affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom, one of each side, painted in black. • Fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. Thigh Armor • The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. • The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. • The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. • Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. • Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back. • If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • The thigh ammo belt must be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted black in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). • Thighs are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. • The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. Lower Leg Armor • The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. • Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. - The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. • Thighs are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of black leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Black Pauldron • Must be black in color and made from vinyl, leather or leather like material. Must be worn over the right shoulder. Ammo Packs • Black MP40 style ammo packs made from leather or leather like material, one on each side, may be worn in place of drop boxes. • Flap buttons shall be silver in color. Shoulder Ammo Pack • Black MP40 style ammo pack made from leather or leather like material, secured on the upper left of the chest armor. • Flap buttons shall be silver in color. • If this shoulder ammo pack is worn it must be accompanied with the black pauldron and drop boxes on the belt. Belt cannot have pouches in lieu of drop boxes when the shoulder ammo pack is worn. E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. • A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. • D-ring mounted on the rear. • Correct scope M-38 or M-19 style. • Two power cylinders on the magazine. • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.) DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle is much more powerful with a much greater range than the E-11 blaster. Because of its powerful, long range capabilities, this rifle is commonly used on Imperial controlled planets with large, clear, open areas. • Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side. T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries. Based on a real or replica Lewis Mark I machine gun. For this prop the magazine disk and bipod of the original gun are left off. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A ribbed length of tubing shall be installed over the front of the gun barrel. A black canvas, leather, or nylon sling shall be attached. Sight shall be present on top where ribbing meets base. The following details must be present: gas plug, greeblies on barrel, and cleaning brush in stock.

Yes that sounds like a possible route. Level 2 can specify measurements/measurement ranges on things details, strapping, etc. as well. Something to consider. I too would need to look at it but a builder like yourself would def have better knowledge of where things can be zeroed in on for accuracy. If you’re cool w it, give it a look and see what you can come up with.

Looking good @THECAPTAIN! If you are going for Specialist approval the snout, detonator greeblies, and decals need to be matte black (to contrast the gloss armor). If you decide you’d like to paint the armor a satin or matte, you will need gloss decals (greeblies and snout stay matte). Make sure to check the CRL thoroughly for all Level 2 requirements. If you any questions, ask away. Here to help!

Red? White? Or both? Ive seen the white. With our addition of the Rocket Trooper and a similar styling to Flames, LMOs shot me some pics of it n it may land here regardless of color. I had @IcyTrooper start a placeholder thread (for the white).

@Scubacat I agree. Goal is to get Level 2 on all of our CRLs where possible (not just housed here at the forums). Anyone is allowed to write the proposal for review. Maybe you can work alongside @Jeditid @Yiyoand others to come up w/ something??? Would be open to that. Write up the proposal and then all of us (authors, CRL team, and command) can review it. @Jeditid Good question. Are there known parts that can be added as Level 2? Nitty gritty details that would separate a costume from being accurate (Level 2) to having an accurate look (Level 1)?

I shot ya a pm

It might be time for someone outside of WTF to do a run?

No new images from the original have been redone. What @IcyTrooper posted is just a recap from where we left off.

Sounds great and I like the ribbing suggestion (as pointed out in the reference pic a couple posts up). I will let @Blackwatch make the text adjustment as he's been managing that. Any other text adjustments in mind? From what I can see we are set, but asking just in case anyone notices anything else. I'm pinging @rickyboyblue to see where we stand w/ pictures and what we need and what we need to redo. @IcyTrooper you still have what you compiled so far correct?