IcyTrooper

The Sith Trooper has vast differences when compared to a First Order Stomtrooper, here is the CRL for the Sith Trooper: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_Sith_Trooper, it isn't just a First Order Stormtrooper that is painted red. The First Order Stormtroopers as seen in The Last Jedi + The Rise of Skywalker, as well as The Force Awakens are very similar. The main difference in those variations are the helmets.

I believe that the Hand Plates will be next, but should be easy: Hand Plates Realistic style hand plates. Hand plates are painted satin black. Hand plates have a top curving ridge that come to a point over the index or middle finger just past the main knuckle of the hand.

You're moving right on along!

Okay dokie, I'm going to move us to the Forearm Armor now Forearm Armor Purge Trooper style forearm armor. Armor is painted satin black. Forearms have flatter elbow openings than standard clone trooper. Forearms have a top ridge that transitions to a flattened triangle area at the wrist end. Right forearm has a compad with 8 small buttons, 1 large main button, and 1 slightly smaller rectangular button closest to the elbow. The button closest to the elbow is painted red. The compad base has a angular lower panel with a recessed cutline. Two white chevron stripes are present on the outer half of each forearm and point towards the shoulder. Each stripe is approximately 1" (25.4mm) wide with a ¼" (6.35mm) gap in between. On the right forearm, the compad does not overlap the white stripes. Armor is seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled are shown. I made some changes in purple and reorganized it a bit to flow. I added that "point towards the shoulder" part because there are stripes on both forearms, so I didn't want to make things redundant. What does everyone think?

Thanks for the patience, I've been traveling for work and days have been LONG. I don't think we ever published the finalized (for now) Helmet text: I did a little changes with the purple text. Helmet Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume. Lens must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. The eye lens is one continuous piece with a mirrored red tint. The central vocoder (chin detail) may be molded as a separate piece and is inserted into a recess in the mouth plate or it may be molded as a part of the mouth plate, but with a prominent recessed outline to create the appearance of being separate. The top part of the vocoder is rectangular in shape, with two clipped dog ears on the top corners. A smaller plate of identical shape sits on the top of this panel, leaving a narrow margin around each edge. There is also an angular cut out at the top of the right edge of this plate. A second rectangular plate sits on the top of the first, covering approximately 40% of bottom of the lower plate. There is a raised horizontal line on the lower left side of this top plate. There is a small square recess underneath this raised horizontal line. The main body of the vocoder sits below the panel described above. 9 raised ridges run vertically across the vocoder. Angled wings at the top of either side of the vocoder ridges, each slightly under approximately 50% of the length of these ridges. These wings angle down to the rest on top of the main mouth plate. Square profile side tusks run back from the lower edges of this front plate. Recessed rectangular metallic silver screens are inset into the greeblie in the front of each side tusk. Each greeblie has a raised ridge on 3 sides, angling up from the bottom side of the greeblie. 6 pill shapped symmetrical recessed stripes on each tusk, with the bottom of the recesses filled with red to match the pauldron, belt accessories and left bicep armor. A small raised horizontal rectangle with a recessed line is located below the vocoder. The frown must have 10 teeth cut out and any raised teeth or angled recesses are painted silver. There is a silver rectangular plate on the nose, between the teeth and the front plate, with a silver half moon greeble on top. This plate is recessed below the angled face plates on either side. The half moon greeble is level with the adjacent face plates. There is symmetrical recesses with a pill shaped greeblie on each side between the side tubes and the cheeks. The top of the greeblies are split in half with the top half being flat and the bottom half having 4 raised ridges that are level with the flat half. There are sharp angular cheekbones sculpted into helmet face plate running in a triangular shape below the lens opening. There are 3 raised ridges run from the center of the brow, over the top of the helmet and down to the rear center of the helmet skirt. The central ridge is approximately 2.5 times wider than the ridges to either side of it. A winged greeblie sits below the center of the brow ridge and above the eye lens. The top of the helmet is separated from the face plate by a horizontal band running above the brow. A groove separates the top of the helmet and the rear skirt, running across the back of the helmet, meeting the brow band on either side. The side greebles (communicators/range finders) are attached on top of the joints between the band and the ridge on either side of the helmet. Symmetrical rectangular greebles (communicators/range finders) with semi-circular ridges underneath, present at the back of each side of the brow band, situated on top of the point where the front band meets the rear groove. The greeblie contains two raised and stacked squares, each with a circular LED or sculpted imitation located near the front, and a single recessed line in the shape of a square outlining the back two thirds of the greeble. OPTIONAL - The top and bottom may be lit using LEDs. The top LED must be a warm pale yellow (similar to a warm incandescent bulb), the bottom LED must be red. There are 2 small pill shaped double indentation in the bottom corners of the faceplate, under each ear. The rear indentation is vertical and slightly longer than the front indentation that angles toward the front of the helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The central vocoder (chin detail) shall be molded as a separate piece and is inserted into a recess in the mouth plate. The aforementioned greeblie on the back of each side of the brow band must have the top and bottom lit using LEDs. The top LED must be a warm pale yellow (similar to a warm incandescent bulb), the bottom LED must be red.

Time for the Elbow Armor! Elbow Armor Realistic style elbow Armor. Armor is painted satin black. Elbow straps have a raised detail line at the top and bottom of the strap. Armor has two parallel dashed detail slots on each outside edge of elbow at the strap connection. Elbows are mirror images of each other with a notched area on the outside of the elbow above the detail marks.

Getting a good start with this!!

Right on, I'll update the 1st page listing and we can move to the next piece. I'm traveling for work until next Friday (been going at it since last Sunday) and doing close to 17 hour days each day so I'm a little slowwwwww.

Hello, friend! I'm tagging @ukswrath here as well. Are there any parts of the cords at 90 degree angles? If something was pinched it could have broke a connection.

GML's do basic/L1 approval through the garrison/outpost. DCA's do L2/L3 approval through the detachment. You'd get approved initially by the GMLs and then post up in the Specialist forum with the appropriate pictures to request L2 approval from the detachment. All L2/L3 approvals are only detachment honors and aren't recognized by garrisons/outposts.

I'd be fine for allowing more layers for basic and then less for L2.

Onto the next piece! Added leather-like to the text. Upper Arm Armor Purge Trooper style bicep armor. Armor is painted satin black. There is an ammo strap with three ammo cartridges present on the right bicep. Ammo cartridges are satin black. The strap consists of an approximately ¾" (19.05mm) or 1” (25.4mm) black leather or leather-like band. Armor has a front hard line outside edge and inside rounded edge, with indented area on back. Armor is seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled are shown.

The update proposal comes in the form of clarifying that the grooves on the thigh armor be allowed to be accentuated with black paint or be unpainted. Initially, since there were very little references from on-screen the Hot Toys action figure served as a secondary reference to the main costume. In this toy reference, the grooves on the thighs were painted black, however, upon seeing the display piece at Celebration, these grooves were NOT painted. vs

In light of SW Celebration model details and a recent inquiry to newer details found on the costume, I have created this thread to drive discussion on a CRL update. Once items are identified the CRL text will be added in this post to illustrate the changes. ------------------------------------------ This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Thighs

Thanks @Chaos, ya beat me! I second making sure that all armor pieces are the same paint sheen and consistent.

We have two options here, really will be based on whether or not we very that EVERY piece has the weathering on it. If all armor pieces have this weathering then we can add a statement to the Special Notes section that reads: All armor pieces will have light to moderate weathering that is gray in color. All weathering will be consistent across the costume with no piece(s) standing out from the others. If NOT every armor piece has this weathering then we should probably include "Armor has light to moderate weathering that is gray in color" on each applicable piece with a blanket statement in the Special Notes section that reads: All weathering will be consistent across the costume with no piece(s) standing out from the others. That would make sure someone doesn't overdo it on one piece but not the other.

Hmmm, that is very interesting when it comes to whether or not we have it as a 2-piece or 3-piece. I thought about this from a few perspectives, such as considering how animated clone armor is setup as well as it just occurred to me that the MMCC may have a CRL for it (and they do). MMCC has it broken into a 3-piece setup with a chest piece, upper ab section and low ab section.

Also a side note for here as the discussion progresses, Spec Ops only has L2 as the highest level. We don't have L3 (despite the Sky Trooper, but that was due to the transfer from FISD to us). With regards to the ribbing, the Hot Toys model is a supporting secondary reference. Whatever is seen on screen will be the first call for text. I think we only see that it is horizontal on the screen references, right?

Similar to the point I made earlier about one-piece vs two-piece and allowing options for both, I see the same thing here for the flexibility of the wearer. However, as stated, we definitely need to make sure that it appears as the same material and color of that of the upper part of the flight suit.

@tipperaryred excellent job on write-up for proportions and details! I concur with this assessment on this

I love the discussion and welcome to the fray, our new conversation starters! Please make sure that we are utilizing what is on screen for the purposes of the CRL. CRLs are cross checked for visual references when it comes to building the CRLs. We definitely love to have on set experience to help guide the discussion, but the CRL will be a visual representation of what is actually seen by the viewer. L1 should allow for global flexibility of building with respect to material, while still maintaining consistency amongst all for accurate representation of the costume.

Very good discussion on that! I never even noticed that cog on the underside! I wonder if that has something to do with how the textures are mapped. If we would rather, we could list it as a L2 detail? I did a little modification to the text to provide a similar statement to which we see with other "reference image" statements we make in other CRLs. I did the same with the "method of attachment" part as well. The main one I pulled from was our recent Task Force 99: Cav costume: Purge Trooper style shoulder armor. Shoulders are tear drop in shape with all rounded edges, matching the reference images. Armor is painted satin black. Each shoulder has a red Imperial Cog emblem, sized proportionally to the wearer and matching the reference images. There is no visible method of attachment of the shoulder armor to the suit. Armor has some moderate weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. I am still wondering about the wording for moderate weathering. I know that on the helmet we stated little to no weathering, so I want to make sure that we don't have an issue where parts are getting inconsistent with weathering. We should honestly keep it consistent throughout.

One thing I've been big with is allowing for similar appearing cloth types which accurately represent the "on-screen" aspect of the costume to allow for more global building of the costume at basic (L1) approval. If we want to get into specific materials I feel like those would be better suited for Specialist (L2) level of detail. With that being said, I did a little adjustment on the CRL that @tipperaryred did as well, for the flight suit: May be a one-piece or two-piece garment, and must be properly fitted and shaped to the wearer. Must not have any visible pockets, pouches or zippers. The upper body part of the flight suit is maroon colored, in a heavily ribbed style similar to acrylic British military pullovers. The neck area of the flight suit goes halfway up the neck of the wearer to conceal skin when the helmet is worn. On each shoulder of the flight suit there is a white Imperial Cog emblem on a black background. The cog is 3” (76.2mm) or 3.5” (88.9mm) diameter and 1” (25.4mm) from the shoulder seam. The cog may be embroidered or vinyl. The lower body part of the flight suit is a very light grey or weathered white. The lower part may be a separate trouser garment, or part of a one-piece flight suit. If a one-piece jump suit, the upper body jumper should be worn over the garment so as to obscure any view of the flight suit underneath. The lower body part of the flight suit has the following seams: On the outside of each leg there is a double-lapped seam which runs the entire length of the suit showing from the top of the shins up under the belt. On the front just above the top of the knee armor which wraps around to the back of the flight suit and appears on the back. On the back from the knee seam there is a seam that runs up the back of each thigh and then curves to the outside of the back under the belt. There is a horizontal seam that runs across the butt connecting both of these seams running up the back of each thigh. On the back there is central double-lapped seam which runs from under the belt to the crotch of the wearer. By adding "one-piece", it aligns with the rest of the text and also allows for more flexibility with body types, since we have no confirmation on renderings if it truly is 1 or 2 parts.

What @Chaos said is solid! You should be able to get it rounded out more by running it a little further back on that ridge. A little E6000 can then keep it straight and on the thigh ridge.

Nothing beats a great painting day!