IcyTrooper

This will be what is uploaded to the Belt on the first page: Belt Realistic style clone belt, belt boxes, and detonator. Belt, boxes, and detonator are painted satin black. Belt front between front boxes has three (3) vertical rectangle indents which are spaced apart by two protruding rectangle areas. The rest of the belt is flat surfaced with raised edging on the top and bottom that run along the rest of the belt. Eight (8) belt boxes are attached to the belt with four (4) on each side. The two largest boxes are in front with an angled top surface that is higher toward the center. The smallest boxes are located behind the front boxes, about ⅛" (3.2mm) apart and have an angled end on top. The medium sized matching boxes, with flat top cover are about ⅛" (3.2mm) from the smallest boxes. Left rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has two square buttons in the top left corner, and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on bottom right. Right rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has a bar with two (2) small cylinders centered and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on the bottom left. A detonator is centered and attached to the back of the belt. Detonator tube is about 2.25" (57.15mm) diameter with wider detailed end caps. Seven (7) horizontally aligned square buttons are on the left side of the tube when viewed from behind. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boxes are notched on the back and fit flush to the belt. Back of the belt, between the rear boxes and the detonator, has horizontal ribbing. Detonator has ⅛" (3.2mm) to ¼" (6.3mm) inch wide rectangle base, connecting the detonator to the belt.

Ouch! You know, I didn't even think about the current with those. I'm gonna say I was thrown off by the fact they were LEDs and usually don't generate the heat we're used to...but then again, electrical is my worse subject! I have some time working on aircraft and any time it involved actual wiring I was like, well here's a challenge for today. May have to run separate batteries as you've done but perhaps one for lower body and one for upper body would suffice?

Onto the Belt we go: Belt Realistic style clone belt, belt boxes, and detonator. Belt, boxes, and detonator are painted satin black. Belt front between front boxes has three (3) vertical rectangle indents which are spaced apart by two protruding rectangle areas. The rest of the belt is flat surfaced with raised edging on the top and bottom that run along the rest of the belt. Eight (8) belt boxes are attached to the belt with four (4) on each side. The two largest boxes are in front with an angled top surface that is higher toward the center. The smallest boxes are located behind the front boxes, about ⅛" (3.2mm) apart and have an angled end on top. The medium sized matching boxes, with flat top cover are about ⅛" (3.2mm) from the smallest boxes. Left rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has two square buttons in the top left corner, and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on bottom right. Right rear box is spaced closer to the detonator and has a bar with two (2) small cylinders centered and two (2) dashed indented detail marks on the bottom left. A detonator is centered and attached to the back of the belt. Detonator tube is about 2.25" (57.15mm) diameter with wider detailed end caps. Seven (7) horizontally aligned square buttons are on the left side of the tube when viewed from behind. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boxes are notched on the back and fit flush to the belt. Back of the belt, between the rear boxes, has horizontal ribbing. Detonator has ⅛" (3.2mm) to ¼" (6.3mm) inch wide rectangle base, connecting the Detonator to the Belt.

@TX11559 is this for a shadow stormtrooper or death trooper? The title says one thing and this post says another

Thanks for the info @Sithtrooper!

I was looking at that ans was thinking, you could probably cut that canvas to go over those details and glue them/smooth them out over that part? That would make it appear as one piece? Not sure if I did a good job explaining that? I like to think of it like you would when using a vinyl wrap or shrink wrap and heating it to adhere to the details of whatever surface it is being applied to.

Helllllllll yeah!

I second @tipperaryred in checking with your GML. They can also reach out to us on the 501st Detachment Costume Advice subforum (within the GML/GWL 501st forum) and we can assist them with any questions.

Duddddde this is looking so good. Thanks for linking that product.

I think we could do it as a Level 2 detail: Posterior Armor Realistic style posterior armor. Armor is painted satin black. Cod and posterior armor connect at the hips. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Each side of the posterior armor connects to the cod armor via a single snap that matches the color of the armor. The connection point and shape matches that of the reference image.

That change in lighting is so worth it!

Can we actually see this in the game with the same character or in the texture file? If we can't see it but only infer it or see it via texture then it may be a L2 item.

This should be a straightforward one. I couldn't find anything out of the ordinary: Posterior Armor Realistic style posterior armor. Armor is painted satin black. Cod and posterior armor connect at the hips. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones.

Ahh don't think I've seen a flexible LED filament that looks that consistent across the entire length. That is awesome!

Man, you are sooooo good at this!

I'd say MUCH better with the print lines going away.

@tipperaryred ooooh that is a good spot! I missed that one! I like it. Cod Armor Realistic style cod armor. Armor is painted satin black. Cod and posterior armor connect at the hips. Recessed line design at lower part of the front armor. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Indented battle damage visible to the left side of where the Kama buckle attaches that matches the reference photos.

Keep up the great work, guys!

Here is the Cod Armor: Cod Armor Realistic style cod armor. Armor is painted satin black. Cod and posterior armor connect at the hips. Armor has little to no weathering. Any weathering present consists of grey tones.

You definitely put in great work on that! I bet you feel better after doing that sanding

We are awaiting some images for the version 3 so that we can add the text that we already have drafted. I'd imagine that it is going to be somewhat soon. @Hoda had been speaking with the member and we'll double check.

That green looks so GOOD!

Thanks @Blackwatch, I had missed this one! @PinkThorn242 if you are able to link the files or paste any renders here that'd help.

Off to a nice start!

Ahhh I had assumed that he hadn't added it from the bottom list yet, I see where I missed that. It is added now.