IcyTrooper

I just added the finalized text for the Name, Character Description, and Knives Name: Cav NOTE: The actual CRL page itself will show Task Force 99: Cav ------------------------- Description: Cav is a Special Commando Advanced Recon (SCAR) trooper in Task Force 99, a squad within the Galactic Empire's Stormtrooper Corps. Cav served as the squad's melee specialist, capable of attacking targets in close quarters combat. Cav participated in Task Force 99's mission to the Ghost Moon in order to take care of a group of Rebels hiding there. ------------------------- Knives Each knife is similar in appearance to that of a Bowie knife and matches the reference photos. The handle and guard of the knife is flat black and has finger grooves present. There shall be no pins/rivets on the handle. The blade itself is serrated from the guard to about halfway outward towards the end of the knife. After the serrated edge it is beveled/grinded to form a point at the end. There is a recessed portion on each side of the blade nearest the guard and a separate pointed section on the top of each blade. The blade itself should be a silver or silver metallic color resembling metal. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): The blade is painted a silver metallic color or in a finish that resembles metal.

No worries! Take your time, we are here and we understand that life can get in the way. I have been swamped with work so I get it!

Yeah so the main wiki page says TX - Sergeant Kreel and when you go on the actual CRL page it says Task Force 99: Sergeant Kreel ? I'm fine with the main page being TX - Cav and then on the actual CRL page being Task Force 99: Cav.

Yeah I put that L2 stuff in there so we get an actual metal look rather than having it a flat silver which I can see people doing. Maybe I can word it differently? I'll have to look back and see about the Specialist part as you are saying. I'm wondering what else we could change it to? Maybe Task Force 99: Cav?

Hmmmm, I'll have to see what I can maybe find online! I'm wondering if this can be dyed to something that'd work: https://www.imperialboots.com/product/hoth_rebel_gloves/

Here is the proposed Character Description text for the CRL including the Character Name: Name: Specialist Cav Character Description: Cav is a Special Commando Advanced Recon (SCAR) trooper in Task Force 99, a squad within the Galactic Empire's Stormtrooper Corps. Cav served as the squad's melee specialist, capable of attacking targets in close quarters combat. Cav participated in Task Force 99's mission to the Ghost Moon in order to take care of a group of Rebels hiding there. I want to also include the Special Notes text for draft: The armor parts shall be gloss or semi-gloss white unless specified otherwise in the CRL text. Weathering is optional. If weathering is used, it should be consistent across the costume. No piece should stand out from the others with respect to weathering. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed.

I've heard of paint being damaged during shipping from numerous vendors, it is for sure hard to get stuff shipped 100% properly without it costing an arm and a leg or specialized transportation which is usually out of the question. There is always the risk of stuff not all fitting correctly when buying a pre-built kit with provided measurements, but how it is resolved is often what "warranty" the maker/assembler offers or the agreement that was made at the time of purchase. To answer your question, I have not heard of complaints with PAD and the armor looks good. No single vendor can make an automatic 501st-approved costume, that end goal rests solely on the wearer and the Garrison Membership Liaisons (GMLs) within the Garrison/Outpost you are applying with. However, that doesn't meant that we can't help you with tips to get it fitted right and looking good!

Here is the proposed text for the Knives: Knives Each knife is similar in appearance to that of a Bowie knife and matches the reference photos. The handle and guard of the knife is flat black and has finger grooves present. There shall be no pins/rivets on the handle. The blade itself is serrated from the guard to about halfway outward towards the end of the knife. After the serrated edge it is beveled/grinded to form a point at the end. There is a recessed portion on each side of the blade nearest the guard and a separate pointed section on the top of each blade. The blade itself should be a silver or silver metallic color resembling metal. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): The blade is painted a silver metallic color or in a finish that resembles metal.

Here is the finalized text for the Thigh Armor: Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. It may be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. It may be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16 inches (0.8cm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. On the right thigh there is a knife sheath with the following details: The sheath is in proportion to the wearer and matches the sheaths on the chest pad. If local law prohibits the use of prop knives, then the following details are present: The sheath has the appears of being full with a knife. The sheath has only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch. On the sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional. The sheath is held on the right thigh by a singular strap or two straps. The strap color will be black and they will be made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. If utilizing a singular strap then it is approximately 4” (101.6mm) wide. If utilizing two straps then each strap is approximately 2” (50.8mm) wide. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of the lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, and should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt is not attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener. There is no visible method of attachment. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

New draft text for the Thigh Armor including any changes in purple: Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. It may be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. It may be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16 inches (0.8cm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. On the right thigh there is a knife sheath with the following details: The sheath is in proportion to the wearer and matches the sheaths on the chest pad. If local law prohibits the use of prop knives, then the following details are present: The sheath has the appears of being full with a knife. The sheath has only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch. On the sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional. The sheath is held on the right thigh by a singular strap or two straps. The strap color will be black and they will be made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. If utilizing a singular strap then it is approximately 4” (101.6mm) wide. If utilizing two straps then each strap is approximately 2” (50.8mm) wide. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of the lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, and should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt is not attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener. There is no visible method of attachment. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

Thanks for the feedback! I will adjust the text with the suggestions on the thigh knife sheath with "matches" as well as adding the L2 detail about no rivet or fastener. I will add that it can be done with a rivet or fastener in L1. I'm fine with that, but just want to make sure we don't get too crossed up with different arcs. I can't remember if we did that with Sgt. Kreel, albeit this is a different costume, however, they are from the same arc. I do agree with @nanotek about measurements for the two options. A recommendation I would make would be to split the measurement of the singular strap in half to make that of the two (e.g., if we say 4" strap for singular strap option then the two strap option would be 2" on each strap for the width, etc.). I think that'll help the proportions. I'll go ahead and draft something up with that text and post below.

Looking solid!

Here we go for the Thigh Armor text as a draft!: Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. On the right thigh there is a knife sheath with the following details: The sheath is in proportion to the wearer and close to the sheaths on the chest pad. If local law prohibits the use of prop knives, then the following details are present: The sheath has the appears of being full with a knife. The sheath has only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch. On the sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional. The sheath is held on the right thigh by a singular strap. The strap is approximately 4” (101.6mm) wide, black in color and made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of the lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, and should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt must be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted white in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16 inches (0.8cm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. I think we need to revisit the right thigh armor strapping. I know you used two straps to hold it on but I'm not seeing a reference in the respective arc that has two straps:

Have fun!!! Here is the finalized text for the Abdomen Armor, Belt, and Pouches: Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. There are two raised lines which run up the center of the abdomen armor up under the chest armor. This center section of the armor is white and on each side there are recessed lines that split the white from black towards the sides of the abdomen armor. These recessed lines are diagonal and get wider the further up armor they go and narrow as they go towards the cod piece. There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor. Belt Belt armor is approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall and divided into 1.75" (44.5mm) wide segments, ending on the hips of the wearer. The front armor segments have a key/slot detail. The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide. Belt pouches are mounted at the hips, covering where the belt armor terminates to the soft belt proper. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. Pouches There are two black medium-sized Spanish pouches that are worn on each side of the hip. Each pouch has the following approximate dimensions: 3.5" x 6” x 2" (88.9mm x 152.4mm x 50.8mm). Pouches are closed with a white pull tab that is approximately 1" (25.4mm) and not a snap or button. Any stitching on the pouch is black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Pouches appear full.

While we work on finalizing the Abdomen Armor, Belt and Pouches I have added the finalized text for the Lower Leg Armor and Boots since they aren't anything special: Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot.

For the pouches do you have rough measurements for them? Pouches There are two black medium-sized Spanish pouches that are worn on each side of the hip. Each pouch has the following approximate dimensions: X" x X' x X" (Xmm x Xmm x Xmm). Pouches are closed with a white pull tab that is approximately 1" (25.4mm) and not a snap or button. Any stitching on the pouch is black. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Pouches appear full.

@RAIDER that is a good catch, I didn't even notice the recessed lines that split the two so I'll ad them in there. I'll also add the L2 detail about the separated cod. I missed that since we did that with Sgt. Kreel. Here is the proposed text for the Abdomen Armor: Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. There are two raised lines which run up the center of the abdomen armor up under the chest armor. This center section of the armor is white and on each side there are recessed lines that split the white from black towards the sides of the abdomen armor. These recessed lines are diagonal and get wider the further up armor they go and narrow as they go towards the cod piece. There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor. With that being said I do agree with the belt text as we push forward with animated clone. I think I had also suggested that way back when when you had started going with how the lines are displayed on it. Here is some text to get us started for the Belt: Belt Belt armor is approximately 3" (76.2mm) tall and divided into 1.75" (44.5mm) wide segments, ending on the hips of the wearer. The front armor segments have a key/slot detail. The soft belt proper is made of canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide. Belt pouches are mounted at the hips, covering where the belt armor terminates to the soft belt proper. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached.

Yeah I think I forgot about that part, so I have added it below: Chest Armor Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. Chest is smooth in appearance. There is a knives sheath/chest pad in the center of the chest that is made out of leather or leather-like material and has an irregular hexagon shape with the following details: The bottom of the knives sheath is curved following the bottom of the chest armor. There are three (3) knife sheaths equally spaced along the chest pad and house each knife's blade. On each sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional. Within each pouch there is a knife or if local law prohibits the use of prop knives then the following details are present: Each sheath has the appearance of being full with a knife. Each sheath has the only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch. There is no visible method of attachment of the knives sheath/chest pad to the chest armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps.

Here is the proposed text for the Abdomen Armor: Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may be combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. There are two raised lines which run up the center of the abdomen armor up under the chest armor. This center section of the armor is white which splits black towards the sides of the abdomen armor diagonally getting wider the further up armor it goes and narrows as it goes towards the cod piece. There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. There shall be no visible rivets or snaps on the exterior of the armor.

Here is the finalized Chest Armor text: Chest Armor Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. Chest is smooth in appearance. There is a knives sheath/chest pad in the center of the chest that is made out of leather or leather-like material and has an irregular hexagon shape with the following details: The bottom of the knives sheath is curved following the bottom of the chest armor. There are three (3) knife sheaths equally spaced along the chest pad and house each knife's blade. On each sheath there is a strap on the right side with a black snap in the middle. The snap does not need to be functional. Within each pouch there is a knife or if local law prohibits the use of prop knives then the following details are present: Each sheath has the appearance of being full with a knife. Each sheath has the only the handle part of the knife and affixed to the pouch. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Here is the text for the Back Armor, Kidney Armor and Posterior Armor since there is nothing special with them either: Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8 inches (0.9cm). Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separate from the posterior armor (ANH style) and lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. Posterior Armor The posterior armor is separate from the kidney armor (ANH style). We should be able to also finalize the Thermal Detonator (TD) text with the following as it is the same as our other TK-based costumes, especially Sgt. Kreel: Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2 to 2.68 inches (5 to 6.8cm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.5 inches (19cm). No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1 inch (2.5cm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be silver.

Glad to have you here and to start this journey with you! Welcome to Spec Ops! @Chaos I know will have some good info! He is our DCA for the DTs and @nanotek also can drop some good knowledge! I welcome any other DTs to help as well

You don't hahaha, but I know some people have used Turtle Wax black car products to achieve decent results in maintaining shine. I'm about 30 troops deep in mine and have just resigned to the fact it is gonna look like it has been through hell. ?

Nice! Yeah they are pretty good kits! I've done 3 of em so far and working on another 2 currently. Let us know if you have any questions!

Thanks! I'll get them added.

Very nice! Super shiny! Is that an Anovos kit?