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IcyTrooper

Detachment Leader[CMD-DL]
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Everything posted by IcyTrooper

  1. I have added the finalized text for the Thigh Pouches and updated the text for the Bicep Pouch! I will also get a Google Drive folder started for the pictures and PM that out. I'll try and get that setup tomorrow.
  2. Here is the new Thigh Pouches text: Thigh Pouches There is a medium pouch on the left thigh held by two straps. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch has the approximate dimensions 5.5" x 4" x 1.75" (140mm x 101.6mm x 44.5mm) and must match references. The strap is approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Black in color made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. On the right thigh is a large pouch, held by two straps. The straps are fastened to the belt with square metal rings. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch approximate dimensions 7" x 5.5" x 1.75" (178mm x 140mm x 44.5mm) and must match references. The strap is approximately 1.5" (40mm) wide. Black in color made of leather, or leather-like material. -------------------------- After adding the dimensions for the pouches we should go back and update the bicep pouch text to also include this: Bicep Pouch There is a small pouch on the left bicep held by a strap around the bicep. The pouch is black in color and can be made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch has the approximate dimensions 3" x 3" x 1.75" (76mm x 76mm x 44.5mm) and must match references. Pouch closure is trapezoidal in shape. Pouch closure has a snap that is black in color. The strap is black in color and made of elastic, leather, leather-like material. The strap is approximately 1.5" (40mm) wide.
  3. Haha of course, I'd say we just keep it simple with the regular TK for it. Too much variance with that otherwise, and we'd run into the same thing with the boots without having the "U-elastic" on some panels, etc.
  4. Sorry, just got back from vacation! Work has been pretty steady again but I did look at the thigh pouches for both the left and right side. I believe that the left side pouch text is good as it has the two straps holding it on. With the right side dangling strap I'd say remove or keep away any reference to a thigh strap and instead focus on the bag just hanging like scouts do but with the straps. I do agree that we should have some general measurements on there for proportions. The text would be as follows: There is a medium pouch on the left thigh held by two straps. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch is proportional to the size of the wearer and must match references. The strap is approximately 2" (50mm) wide. Black in color made of elastic, leather, or leather-like material. On the right thigh is a large pouch, held by two straps. The straps are fastened to the belt with square metal rings. The pouch is black in color and made of leather or leather-like material. Pouch is proportional to the size of the wearer and must match references. The strap is approximately 1.5" (40mm) wide. Black in color made of leather, or leather-like material. ------------------------------------------------- Circling back to the lower thigh ammo pack, I'm noticing the discrepancies between the various panels. I'd like to rescind my request about the TK Commander where it sits higher as there isn't enough reference to warrant such for any level, especially L2. Therefore the text would match that of the regular TK and TX.
  5. I went ahead and added focused images to each of the posts where we had the text so that we can have the reference images right there instead of the entire pic. Here is what I have Thigh Armor - Although I wish they would draw the ammo pouch on the right thigh further down, it almost looks higher up on the thigh, which we could consider L2. It looks like a video game thigh armor piece (see the TK Commander L2, etc.) Lower Leg Armor - Good Boots - Good For the L2 text on the Thigh Armor we may want to consider: The thigh ammo belt shall be positioned on top of the lower ridge (not like ANH). I have to spend a little more time looking at the thigh pouches text and reference images.
  6. Got ya! So here is what I have now then for the Holster: What I did was allow for 4 or 2 fasteners for L1 and may be painted white. That allows us to make the 4 fasteners and white required for L2. Holster It is made of black leather or leather-like material. It is worn on the left side of the canvas belt and is attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the canvas belt from behind. Affixed with either two fasteners at the bottom (one on each side), or four fasteners (two on the top, two on the bottom equaling two per strap) and may painted in white. Fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The Holster is affixed with four fasteners, two on the top, two on the bottom (two per strap), painted in white.
  7. Haha no worries! I was wondering about that but didn't want to stifle any progression. I added a "Drop Pouch" into the mix on the first page so that we can identify that with the square clips we talk about on the belt. I was going to try and snip a few photos for this for references but can't do that on this Chromebook. With the belt below I added "silver" so that we didn't get anything that didn't match the comic reference. Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt. The soft belt proper is made of white canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3” to 3.5” (75-90mm) wide. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. There are two square silver metal rings that hold the large pouch on the right side. There is a silver lightsaber holder/hook on the right side of the left drop box. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. Drop boxes must be attached using white elastic and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. ---------------------------------------------------------------- I'm personally good with the TD text! Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of a gray cylinder with 2” to 2.68” (50-68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end and a white control panel pad. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.5” (190.5mm). No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. The detonator is attached to the white canvas belt with 1” (25mm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be silver. -------------------------------------------------------------- I did have a question about the "two or four' leather part. Is that to double layer the strapping? I was thinking of pulling some of this from the ANH Hero TK. It appears that it is similar to that TK in this photo: I did make an update to the L2 text to be similar to that of the ANH Hero TK. Holster It is made of black leather or leather-like material. It is worn on the left side of the canvas belt and is attached via two or four leather or leather-like material straps to the canvas belt from behind. Affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom, one on each side, painted in white. Fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The Holster is affixed with four fasteners, two on the top, two on the bottom (two per strap), painted in white.
  8. Here is what I'm posting for the Kidney Armor and Posterior Armor on the 1st page: Kidney Armor The kidney armor is separate from the posterior armor (ANH style) and lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. Posterior Armor The posterior armor is separate from the kidney armor (ANH style).
  9. I guess since we have that on a majority of the panels we can go ahead and state that is the L1 requirement to have the split and forego any L2 requirements. Since there are no molded/rubber edges appearing on any of the armor I can say we probably don't need to be inclusive for ROTJ mixed with ANH.
  10. I'm glad you posted that about the Polyflex, I never thought about it adding a ton of weight. I had used a bunch of it on my Royal Guard helmet but I think I didn't notice it as much because the plastic was thicker than other plastic I've used.
  11. That is an interesting interpretation, however, I know it is just for us to think out loud here since fan art isn't permissible. I'm going to go back and definitively look at the panels a bit more but I think for this series (#59/60) we should for sure stick with the hard armor for abdomen and kidney/posterior.
  12. Ahhh I see now. Yeah I think there is one panel where it appears to be soft but all the other panels I just checked appear to be what you are describing in the last bit.
  13. To piggy-back on this, make sure the Imgur link has an image extension at the end for it to work.
  14. Are you saying the sides are similar to the Rogue One (R1) TKs with the sides, similar to that extension piece between the chest and back?
  15. Agreed, I'd run them separately and we'll definitely need someone to build the costume and make adjustments if needed for references, etc.
  16. From the looks of it, the photos were removed from Tinypic since even the URL's won't push over to anything, regardless of how the back-end was updated. The OP would have to re-upload them onto a new image host and then link them in.
  17. I present the updated text for what we discussed here to move forward: Chest Armor Overlaps the abdominal armor. There is a slight groove running vertical on each lateral side of the chest that angles towards slightly towards the center. These vertical grooves line up with the abdomen armor lines. Chest armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. The abdomen is black in color. There are three white vertical lines in the middle. The outer lines are aligned with the two recessed lines of the chest armor. There are four white rectangles. Two on each side in a horizontal and parallel position. The rectangles are slightly elevated above the surface of the abdomen. Rectangles cannot be drawn or hand-painted There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Let me know if we want to proceed with the above.
  18. I think we should be good with the edits that were made. I'll post the updated text here in a few after I get done eating dinner. Good speed on this again!
  19. I see what you are seeing. Perhaps I can pull something that similarly speaks from the FOTK kits, I'll list it below. Good comparisons! Haha yeah that is fine. What about this for text?: Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. The abdomen is black in color. There are three white vertical lines in the middle. The outer lines are aligned with the two recessed lines of the chest armor. There are four white rectangles. Two on each side in a horizontal and parallel position. The rectangles are slightly elevated above the surface of the abdomen. Rectangles cannot be drawn or hand-painted There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. For the lines on the chest this is what the FOTK has: There is a slight groove running vertical on each lateral side of the chest that angles towards slightly towards the center. Also, I think we skipped the Back Armor but I think we can use this standard text for it?: Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm).
  20. Chest Armor Overlaps the abdominal armor. There are two recessed lines, slightly curved and vertical, on either side of the chest. Width of the lines decreases as they progress to the bottom of the chest armor and line up with the abdomen armor lines. Chest armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. @RAIDER I added the chest text to align with the abdomen armor text which speaks about also lining up with the chest. Also, for the ab/cod piece I'd be comfortable making the separate cod piece a requirement for L1 since we are materially having to modify the ab plate as it is. Splitting the cod plate shouldn't be hard at all.
  21. For the helmet, that is a good point! I'd say for the ability to quickly allow for conversions with L1 to have the text say blue or black for L1 and black for L2. I made such updates to the 1st post with the finalized text. For the pauldron, I have made that correction to change it to "affixed". That is a good question for the type of armor for it. I never thought about the hard pauldron, I'd like to see if we have a comparison on normal pauldron to this pauldron in those comic panels if they even exist. I'll have to see what we have in it. I'm not opposed to the hard option for L2. See above
  22. Got em loaded! I also made an edit to that bicep pouch to state that is is a snap (not a rivet) and black in color. I agree on the hand plate and glove text being standard
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