IcyTrooper

For basic there isn't a requirement and 1-1.25 isn't big at all, especially since it is black with a black undersuit. You should be fine with that for basic, for L2 you'd need to shim it up. For the boots you may want to try Imperial Boots!

Thanks for the review, my man! @RAIDER I took that goggle section from the snowtrooper CRL because I had assumed maybe there was someone out there who was making a kit with obnoxiously large or too small goggle slots but we can remove it! Interesting point on the second point, I'll go back and check out the reference pics and see what it looks like!

Sounds good!!

Good work so far! Just remember cut a little at a time and measure a ton and do fitment checks! Make sure to have your undersuit material on when doing the final fitment and cuts as it does add a smaller layer of thickness.

Welcome! We can certainly help!

Hey, Rob! This is the good start to get that build thread going and can serve as the thread. As @RAIDER said, those companies are the only 2 I'm aware of as well who are producing the costume in ABS and/or fiberglass; otherwise others are 3D printing them.

Hey there! There is some good information on vendors from @Chaos here: He may have some additional information or thread to link it as well.

Very nice and good luck on the move into a house!!

Find the most recent and updated version of the Task Force 99: Sergeant Kreel CRL in English at the link below: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_Task_Force_99_Sergeant_Kreel

We are live: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_Sergeant_Kreel Great work!!

Congrats!!!

I knew I had spotted you on Instagram! Looks good!

Right on! Looking good!

Hey no worries! You'll have to use a 3rd party hosting site for them to help save on space on our server. This thread has some tips as well, depending on the site you use: He definitely came a long way and I see is still making adjustments to the helmet, albeit that is probably one of the hardest parts. A good portion of it looks good to the asymmetry that is that in ANH but I did notice he was making the 3D models in order to create the bucks and setup stuff for vacuform ABS pulling? I only saw one pic of the entire kit, so @nanotek would probably also look at the files since he said he has access to them.

Hello, Nick! Welcome and glad to see another Crimson in the works! Are you able to post pics of what the 3D print will look like? Under our CRL guidelines we don't have 3D print as an option but looking at expanding some of our CRLs to catch up with new tech so we'd like to check the accuracy of it. I don't foresee it being an issue as long as the prints look good with accuracy and there are no visible print lines and it replicates the ANH style (not too sharp), however, that determination will be up to your local GML as they will be going off the CRL for review. @RAIDER is spot on with the thread recommendation, it is good stuff!

I'll start it off here. A fair warning, this is an interesting design: Helmet Helmet brow width should be approximately 1/2" (12.7mm) around the helmet. On the front of the helmet just above the goggle eye armor section there is a long rectangular edge that runs from the center of each eye and has two cutout sections before the shroud of the helmet. The shroud of the helmet starts at each cutout section and curves downwards towards the wearer’s shoulders and then around the back of the helmet. Rear of helmet shroud has six square box indented details. Just below the helmet brow starting on one side of the helmet is an approximate 1” (25.4mm) orange stripe that goes around the helmet to the other side. The stripes start on the side where the wearer’s ears would be. The right-side shroud has blue writing details that match the game reference photos, just under the helmet brow. Goggles / eye lenses of the helmet provides a relatively accurate shape. Not cut too small or too large. Lenses are a dark smoke color. The goggle eye armor section matches the reference images and comes to a point near the corners of the mouth with the following details: There is a raised section that runs from each outer corner of the eye downwards towards the cheek and then narrower over the bridge of the nose. There is a cutout half-oval just under the bridge of the nose and raised section. There are two cutout half-ovals at the lowest part of each raised part of the cheek. Cowl on the helmet is made from a smooth and dull or semi-glossy, medium to heavy weight white material and is proportional to the helmet size. The cowl has the following details: In the top center just under the goggle eye armor section there is a recessed area that resembles a hexagon which has four teeth resembling that of a stormtrooper helmet. There is a rectangular indention with a rounded top edge just below the teeth as well as two recessed areas on both sides and just below the teeth. Each side of the cowl has a scalloped half circle just under the overhang of the helmet that comes to the point over the cheek of the wearer and is angled down towards to each hose connector greeblie. Just above the greeblie there is another recessed angular piece which has a notch cutout closest to the center of the wearer’s face. Front of the cowl should generally extend to just above or be in line with the top of the arch-detail of the chest plate when the wearer is standing up straight. The rear of the cowl should extend to just above the backpack. The hose connector greeblie on each side of the cowling matches the reference photos has the following details: The base of each hose connector is circular with a raised edge. The next level outwards are cylindrical with 8 equally spaced recessed rounded rectangles along the flat surface. The next level outwards are more conical with a scoop detail on the upper inside of each connector pointing towards the cowl teeth. The outermost part of the connector is circular which from outside to the inside of the connector is recessed, raised, recessed and has a raised point in the center. Any part of the helmet where the cowl doesn’t fully meet the eye goggle armor section must be painted black. I borrowed some references from the snowtrooper CRL as there were various similar/same details.

We'll use this for drafting the text. As it stands, I have text drafted for everything but the Helmet, Duster, Backpack and Flamethrower.

This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet Duster [possible skirt/kama instead of duster] Jumpsuit Kama [possible change from Duster to Kama] Shoulder Armor Forearms Hand Plates Gloves Chest Armor Backpack Abdomen Armor / Belt Buckle Pouches Codpiece Knee Armor Gaiters Boots Flamethrower (Optional) ------------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------ Description: Imperial Flametrooper: Jedi Fallen Order Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars Jedi: Fallen Order CHARACTER DESCRIPTION TEXT HERE For 501st membership only the requirements listed in black need to be met. Black text indicates a feature that is required for approval. Blue text denotes requirements for Level 2 "Specialist," but is not required for basic approval. Visit the Spec Ops website for a full description of these standards. Special Notes: The armor parts shall be gloss or semi-gloss white unless specified otherwise in the CRL text. Weathering is optional. If weathering is used, it should be consistent across the costume. No piece should stand out from the others with respect to weathering. Armor is made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. -------------------------------------------- Helmet Helmet brow width should be approximately 1/2" (12.7mm) around the helmet. On the front of the helmet just above the goggle eye armor section there is a long rectangular edge that runs from the center of each eye and has two cutout sections before the shroud of the helmet. The shroud of the helmet starts at each cutout section and curves downwards towards the wearer’s shoulders and then around the back of the helmet. Rear of helmet shroud has six square box indented details. Just below the helmet brow starting on one side of the helmet is an approximate 1” (25.4mm) orange stripe that goes around the helmet to the other side. The stripes start on the side where the wearer’s ears would be. The right-side shroud has blue writing details that match the game reference photos, just under the helmet brow. Goggles / eye lenses of the helmet provides a relatively accurate shape. Lenses are a dark smoke color. The goggle eye armor section matches the reference images and comes to a point near the corners of the mouth with the following details: There is a raised section that runs from each outer corner of the eye downwards towards the cheek and then narrower over the bridge of the nose. There is a cutout half-oval just under the bridge of the nose and raised section. There are two cutout half-ovals at the lowest part of each raised part of the cheek. Cowl on the helmet is made from a smooth and dull or semi-glossy, medium to heavy weight white material and is proportional to the helmet size. The cowl has the following details: In the top center just under the goggle eye armor section there is a recessed area that resembles a hexagon which has four teeth resembling that of a stormtrooper helmet. There is a rectangular indention with a rounded top edge just below the teeth as well as two recessed areas on both sides and just below the teeth. Each side of the cowl has a scalloped half circle just under the overhang of the helmet that comes to the point over the cheek of the wearer and is angled down towards to each hose connector greeblie. Just above the greeblie there is another recessed angular piece which has a notch cutout closest to the center of the wearer’s face. Front of the cowl should generally extend to just above or be in line with the top of the arch-detail of the chest plate when the wearer is standing up straight. The rear of the cowl should extend to just above the backpack. The hose connector greeblie on each side of the cowling matches the reference photos has the following details: The base of each hose connector is circular with a raised edge. The next level outwards are cylindrical with 8 equally spaced recessed rounded rectangles along the flat surface. The next level outwards are more conical with a scoop detail on the upper inside of each connector pointing towards the cowl teeth. The outermost part of the connector is circular which from outside to the inside of the connector is recessed, raised, recessed and has a raised point in the center. Any part of the helmet where the cowl doesn’t fully meet the eye goggle armor section must be painted dark gray or black. Jumpsuit One-piece light grey coverall/jumpsuit/flight suit with a front invisible zipper. There is a visible seam that runs the outside of each arm past the shoulder to the base of the collar. There is visible seam that runs the outside of each leg up to the armpits. There is also a seam that runs on the inside of each leg to the crotch. Shoulder Armor Shoulders match visual reference. Shoulders have seven trapezoid shaped box details along the top. Rim is raised the entirety of the shoulder bell, merging into a rounded detail mid-way on both sides. Shoulders are attached directly to the suit with no visible attachment method present. Forearms Forearms are fully sealed and closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. The ends of the forearm armor closest to the wrists go under the glove cuffs. Hand Plates These shall be clamshell, or Snowtrooper-style hand plates and not the trapezoidal design seen in A New Hope. The hand plates shall be mounted securely over the back of the glove. Gloves Gloves are Nomex or Nomex-like styled with light gray palms and darker gray top of the hand. Each glove includes a 4” to 6” (101.6-152.4mm) cuff that is the same light gray as the palms. The cuff goes around the forearm armor not underneath it. No visible logos or brand names are visible. The gloves do not have any straps, buckles, snaps, extra decoration or decorative stitching. The left glove cuff has a small compad attached. Compad is approximately a 1.5" x 1.5" (38mm x 38mm) square. The compad has a circular center section, about 3/4" (19mm) high, and topped with a small silver disk, slightly smaller than the center section in diameter. There are seven oblong raised details on the side of the compad that face towards the thumb of the left glove. Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references. Accurate shape/design to front of chest. Outer rim has a continuous trim edge, including the raised trim on the recessed box. Shoulder straps are Stormtrooper style and secured to the chest armor and secure to the back armor in the same fashion. The front recessed box includes a few detail pieces: There is a six-sided raised shape in the top left-hand corner. There is a raised upside-down T-shaped detail offset from the center with part of the T fitting into the cut-out part of the aforementioned six-sided shape. Right-hand side of chest has a raised section with an elongated rectangular strip of metal attached to it with the following details: There are three evenly spaced red rectangular LED light cover/caps. Left-hand side of the chest has two oblong shaped detail which protrude outwards and are staggered from one another, one being more forward. There is an off-white fabric/elastic strap on each side of the chest armor which runs under the bicep and around the wearer securing the chest plate to the wearer’s chest and back. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): The six-sided raised shape in the top left-hand corner of the front recessed box has an additional recessed rectangle on the left side as well as two smaller recessed squares on the right side just above where the cut-out starts.

I have updated the text on the first page for the abdomen armor as well as on the wiki with the new text. It has been pushed over to the Legion side.

It is a two-way street, again, due to the limitations (maybe?) and artist techniques which always makes it a challenge for costume development. I really hope this doesn't negatively effect how costumes are processed going forwards with the LMOs as far as using comics as a viable reference. The best shots we have of the ab with any relation to lighting, other armor, similar colors, etc. are here: The first image that we have to me clearly has the sheen that would illustrate it is a hard armor option. It looks like that on the R1 tank driver as far as the black goes and the raised white part. The second image shows a shine on the knee of a cloth from the lighting source but not necessarily on the ab, again could be due to lightning, but may also be because the ab plate is a different material than let's say the undersuit at the knee. Could be armor could be soft, or a bodysuit, who knows. That third and last pic you see a little something just above the center square button that I'm not sure is trying to illustrate shading or shine of sorts or what. -------------------- When looking at the L2 bullet and the question about doesn't really have anything to do with the abdomen being one or two piece, but rather how it meets at the sides of the armor (e.g., the kidney meeting the abdomen). If the abdomen part was indeed part of the undersuit and the armor plates and lines were rather just attached to the undersuit and the lines were sewn on or were pieces of armored plastic stuck on then that L2 point would probably not exist because there would be no meeting place for the abdomen plate (which doesn't exist) and the kidney plate. To me, I do believe that the abdomen was meant to be a solid armor painted black.

Here is what we have now (yellow are the changes): Abdomen Armor The abdomen and cod piece may combined/fused to a single plate/one piece or separate. Cod piece is white in color. The abdomen is black in color. There are three white lines, one vertical up the center with a diagonal line on each side. The distance between the vertical and diagonal lines is smallest where the abdomen meets the cod and extend diagonally to align with the recessed lines of the chest armor. There are two rectangular armor plates on each side of the abdomen approximately 3/32" to 1/8" (3-4mm) thick. The dimensions of each of the armor plates is approximately 4" x 1.75" x 0.30" (105mm x 45mm x 8mm). There are no visible snaps or rivets. Abdomen armor must match in-comic references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cod piece is separate from the abdomen armor. There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed.

We all agree on changing the verbiage for the raised rectangular sections on the ab plate, though? I think it is a good idea to have a measurement there and change the wording.

Hello, Todd! Yeah that is an interesting design that is for sure, I'm wondering if that was one of the first run 850 DTs that is out there. That gasket should go all the way down and if I remember right those should be solid all the way around. @nanotek and @Chaos?

I think we may have done it as a L2 for inclusion across the basic level, but I honestly can't remember. I know that some members do separate the ab and cod on regular kits if they are very tall or short in order to make it look like it fits better. I don't think it is a very visible difference in the kit and thus the reason for L2. You can't make that out from a casual look but someone who is very into the detail would notice it.

In going through the review @nanotek and I had a discussion about enhancing the details and clarify for certain parts of the abdomen armor. Mainly there were 2 things: The outer two abdomen armor lines that line up with the chest angle more diagonally rather than vertical so that we don't end up with lines that are straight up and down for each of them. Only the center line should be straight up and down vertically. The rectangular blocks on the abdomen armor we are taking a look at if we add rectangular armor plates instead of just calling them white rectangles.