IcyTrooper

I can most certainly do that! The following thread will have the talk in it with the instructions I have in it:

@Blue Hatter @Raider I can post each section below so that we can work on each section at at time. I'll start with a summary post to show the different sections and where we are at in the process for each and go from there.

Great work!

Very nice!

What do you mean by the CRL model should wear new boots? He has Jack boot style boots on which are called for in the text. Unless I'm missing something? The boots we selected to match the comic reference and allow for easier ability to find the boots. There are a few sources that are currently selling those style boots. One that comes to mind that I have personally used is Imperial Boots. Searching on Google 501st Jack boots yielded many results. If we were to suggest an alternate style boots there'd have to be the reference to prove it. @Blackwatch, you agree?

I second what @Raider said. You may want to also raise the thighs up a tad so that there isn't so much of a gap in the back, as well as lower the posterior. I'm not sure what your GML may say but I know you trimmed a lot off to fit as well as for comfort. Pulling up a little on the thighs may also help it from getting stuck on your knees. Outside of that I can't see anything else that is an issue.

That patch is good for the costume. As per the CRL the snaps are only required for Level 2 https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_imperial_army_engineer

That is an interesting find. We could definitely take a look at correcting the L2 details for it! I'll edit my post above to include that as item #10.

For L2 we could add "Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%." That is how it is for L2 for video game TK commander in FISD.

Congrats on the approval!

Great news!

Shine looks good to me and the amount on the faceplate that you left is good.

Alright so I'm going to address each of the points you have above for edits (orange for changes) and then we can move to an official CRL adjustment thread if needed: 1. AB Buttons - Change Abdomen Armor The abdomen armor has a button area with 4 glossy blue buttons and 4 glossy black buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter. Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos. A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than ½" (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. 2. E-11 - Addition E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. 3 - 7. Rocket Pack - Change (Black square, black lines, left rocket nozzle, exhaust ports, caps) Rocket Pack Styled after the pack as seen in the Battlefront II video game. An interpretation of the pack is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. It is mounted to the armor back-plate “0 II”. Comprised of the main pack box, fuel tank at the top of the pack and exhaust ports at the left and right bottom of the pack. The backpack fuel tank shall not rise above the bottom of the helmet lower edge. The fuel tank is barrel shaped and no wider than the backpack. The center barrel section is as wide as the center section of the main backpack box, and is mounted directly on top of it. The ends of the barrel feature flat depressed caps with raised rings inside the flattened ends. 24 to 40 total rectangular grooved depressions are seen near the ends of the tank, 12 to 20 on each side. The back side of the tank features two vertical oblong depressions ⅜" by 1.5" (10mm by 32mm) long, light orange/amber in color. This is not the same color used on the helmet and shoulder bell. The outermost part of the caps are painted the same gray as the helmet stripes to match references. The fuel tank may be supported by plastic structure as seen in reference material to help hold it stable. Main pack box is rectangular in shape, flat at the top and beveled at the bottom, stopping above the thermal detonator. The main box features a depressed center area inset approximately ½" by 7/16" (12mm by 19mm) deep divided into five segments. The upper half of the depression features three horizontal lines approximately ½" (12mm) thick, and are dirty white or light weathered gray. Three black buttons are located below the horizontal lines, to the right of the depression. Buttons are ¼" to 5/16" (8mm to 9mm) in diameter. The bottom right side of the center of the pack features a 2" by 2.5" (50mm by 62mm) silver rectangle, which has recessed lines extending horizontally to the left. The rockets are mounted to either side of the pack center box, curved at the top and are beveled at the bottom. They are mounted ½" (12mm) below the surface of the pack center box. The bottom of the exhaust ports feature black rectangular nozzles, and may extend ½" (12mm) beyond the housings. There are two black or silver rectangles ¾" by 2" (19mm by 50mm) just above the exhaust nozzles. The left rocket nozzle has a raised silver rectangle approximately 2.5" (62mm) wide by 4" (100mm) long. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The backpack is as close to screen accurate as possible. A total of 40 thin rectangular indentations are seen near the ends of the tank, 20 on each side and must be equally spaced. Fuel tank cylinder end cap layout should match reference photos as closely as possible. The orange/amber segments on the barrel shaped fuel tank shall be illuminated to match reference images, not painted or decals. There is a raised weld seam that runs vertically across the fuel tank which intersects in the middle of the orange/amber segments. 8. Helmet - Change (Mohawk) Helmet Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer’s eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke, or dark green. Rubber black trim runs the length of the brow from the left to right front helmet traps. The brow shall go under the widows peak of mohawk. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps, and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (Highlighted) in black is optional. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and the coloring must not leave the indented area. The frown must be black. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. Tube stripes are medium blue and can be between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black or gray. Two hoses are attached to the helmet, one on each side of the vocoder in the indentation where the aerators would be. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals. The tears must be gray with black outlines and have 5 vertical black lines. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. A mohawk runs across the top of the helmet from the brow to just before the curve at the rear bottom of the helmet. Width of the mohawk is approximately 1.5" (38mm) and tapers slightly towards the base. At the front of the mohawk is a widows peak approximately ½" (12mm) and matches reference photos. The bottom of the widows peak overlaps a portion of the brow trim. A solid orange line approximately ⅜" (10mm) in width runs the length of the mohawk matching the reference photo. The line terminates near the rear of the mohawk and is followed by two squares of the same width and color. The color of the line matches or is similar to the orange used on the left shoulder bell. Gray stripes run parallel to the mohawk and end at the base of the rear traps and are approximately 1" (25mm). Two long triangles protrude from each stripe matching reference photos and are approximately 2" (50mm) in length. A gray rectangle is painted on the rear of the helmet below the mohawk and is approximately 1.5" (38mm) by ½" (12mm). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Eye lenses are bubble style and tinted green. Ears have no visible screws. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Ear bars have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes), they shall be the first and third bumps (from front to back of helmet). The ends of the frown are rounded, not tapered to points (not like ANH/ESB) and not square ended like the ESB MKII. Mesh must be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Tube stripes must have 13 per side. The vocoder base is black and the tubes the same color as the hoses. Traps/tears and tube stripes are decals (with the correct ROTJ details), not hand-painted. Traps/tears are a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. The mohawk runs across the top of the helmet to the brow and slopes down into the brow. There is no overhang of the mohawk over the brow. 9. Shoulder Straps - L2 change Shoulder Straps OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front. These shall be glued in front. Rear of shoulder straps are secured at the back using Velcro or magnets and do not free float. Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%. 10. Thermal detonator - L2 change Thermal Detonator OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned half way between center of detonator and the end cap. The thermal detonator control panel is centered and has correct SWBF2 details with 8 raised sections on the panel. The detonator is attached to the canvas belt with 1" (25mm) white metal or metallic-appearing clips. The clips are seen at the bottom of the thermal detonator when viewing from behind.

@Raider and I are on PS4 as well.

I'd say for the Commander and Default they would be a new CRL as from the looks of it with the helmet and shoulder bells they are beginning to cross into the FO era. That may be the reason the SE-44C was an option at first. The shoulder bells are reminiscent of the FO TKs. There are enough changes with the Default/Commander with that between the lack of chest box, hose changes, helmet changes and shoulder bell changes to warrant a new one. The legacy one I'd say should stay its own.

Thanks for the proposals! When I'm done with work today or during a break I can take the text from the CRL and paste it here with the proposed changes for each section. I looked at all of the proposed changes and they are good points. The only one I'm a little hesitant on is the SE-44C because in the game it is listed as a standard issued First Order officer pistol, which would be a different era. That is interesting that it is available on the trooper screen that you have, is that from an instant action or what?

It is Sly11.

@TheLoneRanger thanks for posting and giving us info on it! I don't have Fallen Order so it is always cool seeing what is in the game. From the looks of it initially I'd say that it'd be FISD that gets it over us or MEPD (not dirty enough). @Raider what do you think? I know the LMO's decide.

Welcome, Jacob! I'd say start on the rough trims with stuff like the hand guards or the larger stuff like the chest and back plates and trim them back a bit to moulds or how they look on the CRL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_stormtrooper The rough cuts will allow you to ease into it and get used to the trimming and then once you get all the rough stuff out you'll start doing the finer trims. Another recommendation I would say is get a build thread going here in this thread with pictures and whatnot and we can assist. Another option on top of that is to reach out to your local garrison for armor parties. At armor parties people meet up and help each other with the armor. With all of those recommendations we can get you on your way

@vonmoen I stand corrected and have edited the responses above, but did not remove the old text (only strikethrough). I'm embarrassed but I missed the last bullet point at the bottom of the L1 stating that the hat can be swapped in for the helmet at L1.

@vonmoen we can most certainly bring it up! Being a GML myself I'm always for better understanding of the CRL, at the same time anything above the optional line should always be treated as mandatory unless noted otherwise. **EDIT** It can be swapped with the hat in L1, I was corrected by @Raider. That is my fault. I missed the last bullet point on the CRL.

Helmet is required for approval. Hat can be worn after initial approval as an optional accessory. **EDIT** I didn't see the last bullet point on the CRL, it can be substituted.

So shiny and smooth!

Congrats on the approval!

Nice work and look forward to the approved update!