IcyTrooper

The space looks fine! Nice.

I have added the helmet to the finalized list, now time for the Neckseal.

Yeah the color change is fine. I'll update the master thread bit showing the finalized helmet section and we can move to the next section. Here is my comment/post within this thread where the final versions lay:

Yeah just cut that off and round it so that it is level and flows.

Sounds wild! I'll admit that I know nothing about 3D printing but a few guys in my garrison do plenty of it.

With all that being said, are we currently good on the helmet verbiage?

Nice! Pretty long print time for it?

Very good way to do it!

To be honest, I haven't polished my shadow stormtrooper yet. I probably should though. For my regular stormtrooper I have the Novus 3 step polish. I'm going to try and use some Turtle Wax stuff for the black armor at some point, just been lazy in the 20+ troops!

If you mean the return edge you can absolutely have a flat edge on each side.

You can see my right arm in the pic:

You mean the edges that round out or the cover strip at the edge? If you're talking about that cover strip you can slant it at the corner. Let me see if I can find a pic.

That looks fine to me, you'll eventually round out those edges so they don't cut into you.

Honestly, the flat outside of the soles would be a L2 thing to me. L1 is feasibility with a uniform and decent look that meets what @Raider said on the other thread. L2 is hyper-realism and would be under more scrutiny.

Very nice!

The return edge may exist or not exist for basic approval. For Level 2 (L2), which is recognizable at detachment level only, there may not be any return edge on the part of the forearm closest to the wrists. Here is the CRL that the GML's will use for review on approvals: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_stormtrooper

You're definitely going to want to do the butt joint with cover strip method. You can only do overlap if the kit has that cover strip molded into the part which from the looks of this kit isn't there (not a common option). You'll also take some of the return edge off the ends as well which will give you some more space. Another tip that I'd recommend is to have your undersuit on when sizing the arms and biceps (as well as other parts) to ensure that you have the proper fit. You don't want to have it so tight that with the suit you won't be able to get your arm through. I'd give yourself room in the bicep to move around a little, if you can. I'll try and see if I have some images of mine as well, but this thread I've linked is very helpful!

Gap wise it'll most likely be whatever looks most uniform. Measurements are largely used for proportions only, unless it is a level 2 detail or something that would really effect the look of the costume.

I think they look great!

I support this modification.

Being both a GML and a DCA here, much like Blackwatch, gives a unique opportunity for a perspective in how things are looked at. I've solicited the knowledge of some fellow GMLs and we agree that shape and obvious details are at the first and foremost of approvals if there is no specific guidance that states otherwise. What that means is that laces would be a no go because it is obvious in the art that there are no laces and that would be an easily seen detail. Stitching or zippers on the other hand are a lot more minute and should be reserved for the L2 consideration. Same thing applied to a bulk of our other costumes as well. Another example would be belt loop holes, etc.

Get that TFU one done!

You guys seem to be the pros with the paint haha...we gonna knock that paint stuff out now or do you wanna just progress and we can decide on the paint at the end since it'll apply to most (if not all) of the parts.

I don't believe so. I'd get the ab plate and chest plate together on you and we can see.

The chest looks like it is normal sized from what I can tell in the pic. Your ab piece is going to up higher (cod piece cups the goods) and with the should straps the chest will come down a little as well. As far as places to start the forearms and shins are both good ones!