IcyTrooper

Amazon also has some good cheaper stuff as well. I have the Tesla (no relation to car maker) brand and it is pretty good.

Snaps are probably going to keep it the closest lined up. I use Velcro/elastic on mine and it keeps it close but I also have it pretty tight. Very nice, now that we can see the helmet you are definitely doing the regular Shadow Stormtrooper version and not the Battlefront version. ?

Do you have any other pics of the rest of the armor, such as the belt/drop boxes and the helmet, specifically? Or hand plates?

I'd say what you did is fine for this, we'll knock out each section of the CRL one step at a time. Some sections will obviously be quicker than others, but I definitely want to see all the feedback you and the community has as well as the staff here to make sure we make things accurate, feasible and hash out L2 details. You can go ahead and add bullet points to your post taken from mine above and edit them to see how it should look or what you are suggesting and then I can update the master post with the information that we all agree on. One thing we'll need to settle is whether something that is difficult to do but would make it hyper-realistic would be pushed to level 2 versus stuff for basic approval. For example, painting the aerators bright silver with reflective glitter to make the lights look better may be a L2 detail, whereas we just need to make sure there is a red LED or film over the LED to give it the red glow, etc. A reflective silver on the mesh would definitely be a L1 detail if it will give us the look we are looking for.

No worries, just the details around the "O II" on the back plate and then on the front of the abdomen plate don't look very sharp/tight in the vacforming process. It definitely won't effect you putting it on or it falling apart.

Ahhh I can't believe that I missed that link. I took a look at the helmet and it'll need a couple things done prior to approval: Traps (both front and back) will need black lines. Tears (under eyes) will need black lines. May want to check with a GML about the difference in shiny between the body armor and the helmet. Looks a little more matte with the helmet that a GML may say is too much of a difference; generally things should look uniform. I'm curious as to who the armor maker is, the pulls look a little weak in a few spots...but nothing that should effect basic approval.

Helmet Shape of the helmet matches the CRL image which features wider cheeks that round out to a point in the back. Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are red. Backlit LEDs give an illuminated glow effect on the lenses. The body of the "ears" must be gray. The bars have three or four bumps and are gray. Ear bump section is outlined in black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and black coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) must be black. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator must be red. Red LEDs within the aerator give the appearance that it is glowing. Tears (area beneath the corners of the eye lenses) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Tears are outlined in black. Tears have vertical black lines. Front traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Front traps are outlined in black. There are no vertical black lines on the front traps. Rear traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Rear traps are outlined in black. Rear traps have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): Ear bars have four bumps, not three. The third bump from the front is black.

I second what @Allan1313 said, I can't see any glaring issues with it. Just be advised that when you get it the right forearm needs to be flipped around so the other end is at the wrist. Will need to see the helmet and boots as well.

Description: Phase 0 Dark Trooper Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Phase Zero dark troopers were the result of the Galactic Empire's Dark Trooper Phase Zero Project and the predecessors of Imperial Dark troopers. Unlike the latter they were not fully droids, but actually aged clone troopers, transformed into cyborgs. The Phase Zero dark troopers were created in the early years of the Empire to deal with a shortage of experienced troops. The program was overseen by then-Lieutenant Rom Mohc and was based on the Empirical, a hidden space station in the Dominus system. He called the program the Dark Trooper Phase Zero.

This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet Neck Seal Undersuit Shoulder Straps Shoulder Armor Biceps Forearms Hand Plates Gloves Chest Armor Back Armor Jump Pack Abdomen Armor Codpiece & Posterior Armor Belt Thermal Detonator Thigh Armor Knee Detail Lower Leg Armor Boot Armor Boots ARC Caster (Weapon) --------------------------------------------------------------- Description: Phase 0 Dark Trooper Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Phase Zero dark troopers were the result of the Galactic Empire's Dark Trooper Phase Zero Project and the predecessors of Imperial Dark troopers. Unlike the latter they were not fully droids, but actually aged clone troopers, transformed into cyborgs. The Phase Zero dark troopers were created in the early years of the Empire to deal with a shortage of experienced troops. The program was overseen by then-Lieutenant Rom Mohc and was based on the Empirical, a hidden space station in the Dominus system. He called the program the Dark Trooper Phase Zero. Helmet Shape of the helmet matches the CRL image and information below: The helmet is based on the standard Stormtrooper helmet, but features larger cheek tubes which bridge into a truncated nose, which is larger and wider than the standard stormtrooper faceplate. The faceplate stops at the earcap, and flares outward at an up-swept angle when viewed from the front. The helmet features a wide skirt originating at the back of the earcap, and sweeps out and downward away from the dome and traps. The skirt widens to partially cover the top of the wearers backplate, and completely covers the shoulder straps. The skirt sweeps back at about level to the rest of the bottom of the helmet, and ends at a point. The skirt is enclosed at the bottom, all the way around, as found in other Stormtrooper helmets. Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable color is dark red. The body of the "ears" must be gray. The bars have three or four bumps and are gray. Ear bump section is outlined in black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and dark gray coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are medium blue or dark grey in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) must be black and is correct in size and shape in relation to the faceplate. Details contained are different from that of a regular stormtrooper: Two vertical details in the middle. One v-shaped detail which goes around the bottom of the the two vertical details and comes up to the midpoint of those vertical details. Below the v-shaped detail is a wedge shaped detail rounds out towards the bottom. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator must be red. Tears (area beneath the corners of the eye lenses) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Tears are outlined in black. Tears have vertical black lines. Front traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Front traps are outlined in black. There are no vertical black lines on the front traps. Rear traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Rear traps are outlined in black. Rear traps have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): The lenses have backlit LEDs to give an illuminated glow effect on the lenses. Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps, not three. The third bump from the front is black. The tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. The fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. The interior of the aerators have red LEDs that give the appearance that it is glowing. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with rivets, Velcro or adhesive. Unlike a regular stormtrooper, there is no front or rear tab on the strap and they must not be present. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front. These shall be glued in front. These shall be held down in the back by either clear elastic or Velcro. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Shoulder bells are angled to appear to float upwards. Biceps Biceps are fully closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. The inner half of the bicep on each arm at the edge of the cover strip is a darker gray than the base body color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8” (10mm) width. Forearms Forearms are fully sealed and closed. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. The inner half of the forearm on each arm at the edge of the cover strip is a darker gray than the base body color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms. Hand Plates Hand plates are mirror images of each other. Hand plates must be styled as one of the following: Smooth clamshell snowtrooper-style (not the trapezoidal design seen in A New Hope), or Ridged clamshell snowtrooper-style (not the trapezoidal design seen in A New Hope), or Clone trooper-style which have a top curving ridge that comes to a point over the index or middle finger just past the main knuckle of the hand. Hand plates shall be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shape of the hand plates must be styled as clone trooper-style which have a top curving ridge that comes to a point over the index or middle finger just past the main knuckle of the hand. Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Chest Armor Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. There will be a darker gray coloring that curves up from each outer ridge of the raised portion of each breast towards the neck and shoulder straps. On each side of the chest there will be a silver circular greeblie with a red center that fades to black around the edges. There are two pill-shaped black marks underneath and slight offset from the greeblie. The two pill-shaped marks may be painted or decals. Chest armor wraps around the wearers body and is sealed at the sides or the chest armor is not sealed at the sides and is connected with black fabric or nylon that blends into the under suit. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chest armor shall have return edges all around, thicker at the bottom. Circular greeblies on chest are more conical and have a metal appearance: Greeblies get narrower towards the top and wider at the bottom. Red LEDs within each greeblie give the appearance that it is glowing. The two pill-shaped black marks are actual indentions. Chest armor is not seamless at the sides with the back armor and is connected with black fabric or nylon that blends into the under suit. Back Armor Back plate contains an “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. There is a fading black to a darker gray coloring that goes from a 45 degree angle from the shoulder straps down towards the corner of the top of the “O II” box, then down at close to a 90 degree angle about two-thirds of the way down before cutting at another 90 degree angle out towards the sides and then again down at a 45 degree angle to the edge of the back plate under the arms. Back armor wraps around the wearers body and is sealed at the sides or the back armor is not sealed at the sides and is connected with black fabric or nylon that blends into the under suit. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back armor is not seamless at the sides with the chest armor and is connected with black fabric or nylon that blends into the under suit. Jump Pack Styled after the jump pack seen in the Battlefront 2004 video game and close to the CRL images with details below. The pack will be painted in the same color as the base color of the armor unless noted otherwise in the details. There are two trapezoidagon wings protruding from either side at the top of the jump pack. These wings are mirrored images of each other with 5 sides. The sides contain the following details: The side facing upwards has a recessed vent section detail painted dark gray on the fins and black to simulate looking into the pack. The vents open towards the center of the pack. The side facing the back/helmet has no details and is dark gray. The side facing outwards from the back has a recessed vent section detail painted dark gray on the fins and black to simulate looking into the pack. The vents open towards the center of the pack. The side facing the exhaust jets is slanted at a 45 degree angle and has a recessed vent section detail painted dark gray on the fins and black to simulate looking into the pack. The vent opens towards the center of the pack. The side facing outwards past the shoulders has a circular detail in the center of a circular recessed area. The circular detail in the center has a raised edge and recessed vent section. The vent section detail is painted dark gray on the fins and black to simulate looking into the pack. There is a trapezoid-like recessed area on each side of the black section towards the top of the pack and next to the trapezoidagon wings. The black center section of the jump pack is flat at the top, slants at an angle towards the middle of the jump pack before flattening out. After the flattened section it slants towards the posterior armor to the bottom of the jump pack. The following details are present: The flat part of the top has no details from the back of the armor to about the last third of the jet pack. After that there is a black section before it reaches the angled slant. The angled slant from the top has a rectangle in the center with recessed black areas on all sides of the rectangle. As it levels out there is another horizontal rectangular greeblie detail until the next slanted area. This horizontal rectangular greeblie is a gray with brown/tan mixed in to give it a metal appearance. The angled slant towards the bottom has a rectangle in the center with recessed black areas on all sides of the rectangle. Just before the rockets on each there is a recessed rectangular section that is gray on each side of the black center section. On each side of the jump pack just above the rockets there is a gray conical detail. This detail is painted dark gray. Each rocket tip will have the following details: A set of dark silver rings at the top. A light gray section in the middle. A dark gray circular section that gets narrower the closer it gets to the bottom. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The vent details on the sides of the trapezoidagon wings have the edges of each vent fin painted a lighter gray to simulate edges. The black center section of the pack is painted to simulate textured metal with grays. In the black center section the horizontal rectangular greeblie has two small gray squares on the lower left side of the greeblie. On the each rocket tip: At the top there will be a total of 4 rings that will have a metal appearance. The white section in the middle will have a slight fade to black as it goes into the rings. The dark gray circular section at the bottom has equally spaced rectangular indentions that go all around it. Abdomen Armor Realistic style Clone Abdomen armor. Six 1/4” (6.35mm) in diameter holes per side on indents of ab plate. Twelve holes total. Abdomen armor has the appearance of no gap between the abdomen armor and posterior armor. Abdomen armor is completely contained under the chest and back armor. Codpiece & Posterior Armor The codpiece may be a separate individual piece or part of the abdomen armor and has a raised detail/ridge at the bottom. Codpiece has a darker gray rectangle that starts at the flat part of the raised detail/ridge of the lower codpiece up to the top of the codpiece under the belt. Codpiece and posterior armor connects at the hips under the belt. Posterior armor has a raised ridge that starts on each the side towards the middle and goes up the posterior armor. There is a second ridge/shelf that starts in the middle of posterior armor before the belt. Belt The belt will have the following details: Belt front has two raised rectangular raised boxes offset from the middle of the belt. Two belt boxes with an angled top that is on the outside edge of each of the two raised rectangular indents. Each belt box has a square indent about half the size of the box towards the top. There are two black lines underneath the square indent. There is another raised rectangular raised box that is to the outside edge of each of the two belt boxes towards the sides of the wearer. Any parts of the belt that are not raised shall be flat. Abdomen armor is completely contained under the chest and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boxes are notched on the back and fit flush to the belt. Detonator connects to the back of the belt without any visible clips and is firmly secured in horizontal position. Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. The total length is approximately 7.50” (190.5mm). Detonator consists of a painted dark gray cylinder with 2” (50mm) to 2.68” (68mm) in diameter with gray/silver end caps on each end and a gray/silver control panel pad. The gray/silver control panel pad faces upwards with the following details Four horizontally aligned buttons. These buttons are aligned to the right on the panel, when viewing from behind. There is a circular detail at the top left of the control panel. The detonator may be attached to the belt with 1” (25mm) silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The detonator is not attached to the belt with silver metal or metallic-appearing clips and sits flush with the belt. Thigh Armor Front of thigh armor has a flat triangular area near the knee. From the top of the triangle, a ridge line travels up the front of the thigh to the top edge. Rear of the thigh has a U-shaped indention. Armor is seamless. No visible traces of how the armor was assembled are shown. On the outside of the thighs there is a darker gray striping that is wide at the top of the thigh and narrows a third of the way down the thigh and extends all the way to the bottom of the thigh. On the inside of the thigh there is a darker gray striping that is wide at the top of the thigh and goes down the inside of the thigh at a 90 degree angle, cutting at a 45 degree angle at the midpoint of the thigh then cuts back down at a 30 degree angle towards the last third of the thigh. It flattens out about a third of the way from the end of the thigh and goes back to the back of the thigh before going up the back inside of the thigh at a 90 degree angle to the top of the thigh. This stripe shall not go to the bottom of the inside of the thigh. Knee Details On each side of each knee there will be a silver circular greeblie with a red center that fades to black around the edges. This detail may be attached to either the thigh armor or lower leg armor, but the method of attachment shall be hidden or blended into the undersuit. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Circular greeblies are more conical and have a metal appearance: Greeblies get narrower towards the top and wider at the bottom. Red LEDs within each greeblie give the appearance that it is glowing. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. There shall be the appearance of a cover strip on the front and back. The cover strips will be a darker gray color that is different from the base color. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.

I can most certainly do that! The following thread will have the talk in it with the instructions I have in it:

@Blue Hatter @Raider I can post each section below so that we can work on each section at at time. I'll start with a summary post to show the different sections and where we are at in the process for each and go from there.

Great work!

Very nice!

What do you mean by the CRL model should wear new boots? He has Jack boot style boots on which are called for in the text. Unless I'm missing something? The boots we selected to match the comic reference and allow for easier ability to find the boots. There are a few sources that are currently selling those style boots. One that comes to mind that I have personally used is Imperial Boots. Searching on Google 501st Jack boots yielded many results. If we were to suggest an alternate style boots there'd have to be the reference to prove it. @Blackwatch, you agree?

I second what @Raider said. You may want to also raise the thighs up a tad so that there isn't so much of a gap in the back, as well as lower the posterior. I'm not sure what your GML may say but I know you trimmed a lot off to fit as well as for comfort. Pulling up a little on the thighs may also help it from getting stuck on your knees. Outside of that I can't see anything else that is an issue.

That patch is good for the costume. As per the CRL the snaps are only required for Level 2 https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_imperial_army_engineer

That is an interesting find. We could definitely take a look at correcting the L2 details for it! I'll edit my post above to include that as item #10.

For L2 we could add "Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%." That is how it is for L2 for video game TK commander in FISD.

Congrats on the approval!

Great news!

Shine looks good to me and the amount on the faceplate that you left is good.

Alright so I'm going to address each of the points you have above for edits (orange for changes) and then we can move to an official CRL adjustment thread if needed: 1. AB Buttons - Change Abdomen Armor The abdomen armor has a button area with 4 glossy blue buttons and 4 glossy black buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16" (11mm) in diameter. Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos. A white flexible U-shaped gasket or molded lip is present around all edges. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than ½" (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. 2. E-11 - Addition E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. 3 - 7. Rocket Pack - Change (Black square, black lines, left rocket nozzle, exhaust ports, caps) Rocket Pack Styled after the pack as seen in the Battlefront II video game. An interpretation of the pack is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. It is mounted to the armor back-plate “0 II”. Comprised of the main pack box, fuel tank at the top of the pack and exhaust ports at the left and right bottom of the pack. The backpack fuel tank shall not rise above the bottom of the helmet lower edge. The fuel tank is barrel shaped and no wider than the backpack. The center barrel section is as wide as the center section of the main backpack box, and is mounted directly on top of it. The ends of the barrel feature flat depressed caps with raised rings inside the flattened ends. 24 to 40 total rectangular grooved depressions are seen near the ends of the tank, 12 to 20 on each side. The back side of the tank features two vertical oblong depressions ⅜" by 1.5" (10mm by 32mm) long, light orange/amber in color. This is not the same color used on the helmet and shoulder bell. The outermost part of the caps are painted the same gray as the helmet stripes to match references. The fuel tank may be supported by plastic structure as seen in reference material to help hold it stable. Main pack box is rectangular in shape, flat at the top and beveled at the bottom, stopping above the thermal detonator. The main box features a depressed center area inset approximately ½" by 7/16" (12mm by 19mm) deep divided into five segments. The upper half of the depression features three horizontal lines approximately ½" (12mm) thick, and are dirty white or light weathered gray. Three black buttons are located below the horizontal lines, to the right of the depression. Buttons are ¼" to 5/16" (8mm to 9mm) in diameter. The bottom right side of the center of the pack features a 2" by 2.5" (50mm by 62mm) silver rectangle, which has recessed lines extending horizontally to the left. The rockets are mounted to either side of the pack center box, curved at the top and are beveled at the bottom. They are mounted ½" (12mm) below the surface of the pack center box. The bottom of the exhaust ports feature black rectangular nozzles, and may extend ½" (12mm) beyond the housings. There are two black or silver rectangles ¾" by 2" (19mm by 50mm) just above the exhaust nozzles. The left rocket nozzle has a raised silver rectangle approximately 2.5" (62mm) wide by 4" (100mm) long. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The backpack is as close to screen accurate as possible. A total of 40 thin rectangular indentations are seen near the ends of the tank, 20 on each side and must be equally spaced. Fuel tank cylinder end cap layout should match reference photos as closely as possible. The orange/amber segments on the barrel shaped fuel tank shall be illuminated to match reference images, not painted or decals. There is a raised weld seam that runs vertically across the fuel tank which intersects in the middle of the orange/amber segments. 8. Helmet - Change (Mohawk) Helmet Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer’s eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke, or dark green. Rubber black trim runs the length of the brow from the left to right front helmet traps. The brow shall go under the widows peak of mohawk. The “ear” bars have three or four bumps, and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (Highlighted) in black is optional. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and the coloring must not leave the indented area. The frown must be black. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. Tube stripes are medium blue and can be between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black or gray. Two hoses are attached to the helmet, one on each side of the vocoder in the indentation where the aerators would be. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals. The tears must be gray with black outlines and have 5 vertical black lines. Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. A mohawk runs across the top of the helmet from the brow to just before the curve at the rear bottom of the helmet. Width of the mohawk is approximately 1.5" (38mm) and tapers slightly towards the base. At the front of the mohawk is a widows peak approximately ½" (12mm) and matches reference photos. The bottom of the widows peak overlaps a portion of the brow trim. A solid orange line approximately ⅜" (10mm) in width runs the length of the mohawk matching the reference photo. The line terminates near the rear of the mohawk and is followed by two squares of the same width and color. The color of the line matches or is similar to the orange used on the left shoulder bell. Gray stripes run parallel to the mohawk and end at the base of the rear traps and are approximately 1" (25mm). Two long triangles protrude from each stripe matching reference photos and are approximately 2" (50mm) in length. A gray rectangle is painted on the rear of the helmet below the mohawk and is approximately 1.5" (38mm) by ½" (12mm). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Eye lenses are bubble style and tinted green. Ears have no visible screws. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Ear bars have only two bumps painted in black (rank stripes), they shall be the first and third bumps (from front to back of helmet). The ends of the frown are rounded, not tapered to points (not like ANH/ESB) and not square ended like the ESB MKII. Mesh must be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Tube stripes must have 13 per side. The vocoder base is black and the tubes the same color as the hoses. Traps/tears and tube stripes are decals (with the correct ROTJ details), not hand-painted. Traps/tears are a slightly bluer shade of ANH gray. The mohawk runs across the top of the helmet to the brow and slopes down into the brow. There is no overhang of the mohawk over the brow. 9. Shoulder Straps - L2 change Shoulder Straps OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front. These shall be glued in front. Rear of shoulder straps are secured at the back using Velcro or magnets and do not free float. Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%. 10. Thermal detonator - L2 change Thermal Detonator OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned half way between center of detonator and the end cap. The thermal detonator control panel is centered and has correct SWBF2 details with 8 raised sections on the panel. The detonator is attached to the canvas belt with 1" (25mm) white metal or metallic-appearing clips. The clips are seen at the bottom of the thermal detonator when viewing from behind.

@Raider and I are on PS4 as well.

I'd say for the Commander and Default they would be a new CRL as from the looks of it with the helmet and shoulder bells they are beginning to cross into the FO era. That may be the reason the SE-44C was an option at first. The shoulder bells are reminiscent of the FO TKs. There are enough changes with the Default/Commander with that between the lack of chest box, hose changes, helmet changes and shoulder bell changes to warrant a new one. The legacy one I'd say should stay its own.