IcyTrooper

Added some screen grabs from the TROS premier SW archive costume interview near the end of the premier. They are on the locked references thread. If you have more that you want us to upload to the forum itself let me know.

Lol nice! The shine and gloss is definitely there. To answer a question above Specialist and Level 2 are the same thing.

Depending on what the GML said and is looking for (can show them this post too) I'd say it would be glossy enough for Level 1 (basic). As for the Specialist changes here is the current thread for CRL revision, the Specialist stuff is in blue text under Level two details: This is the current shadow stormtrooper Specialist requirement thread:

What others have said about the wet sand and coats is correct. That shine/gloss is great!

Excellent! Well done!

Very nice! You're on your way!

Hello! As far as the photos go I'd check out Flickr, Imgur or another image upload website and utilize their links to the pictures using the img code on the reply.

Ohhhh color matching, not fun!

I concur with @Raider on his points. I'll be here to assist in any way I can up to the limits of what I do. All of this is doable no matter which course is taken, we've got some experience behind all of our belts. Keep us updated!

I'm sorry that this has been such a mess for you. We'll get to the bottom of it, however, it will still be the GML or GCO call for it. @Raider maybe we can both chat with the GML or GCO or have him post on the GML/GWL forum for guidance as well. Here is my stance on this costume: If I can see any resemblance of an object in the armor it is shiny enough for me. If it is really matte and all you see is a light source then it isn't shiny enough. If yours looks like Halycon then in our garrison I'd approve it.

Yeah my snow scout was RS and I did not paint or clear it. I'll check when I'm off work but I'm pretty certain it is just white ABS.

If it was painted then you would need to see what paint they used and try and use a clear coat from same manufacturer or test it on scrap pieces. As far as acrylic capped vs uncapped my guess is maybe it has to do with cost to keep it lower for the consumer.

I've used Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch for the clear.

Disregard what I previously put, you stated you talked to your GML. I'd see what it looks like when it comes in and go from there. May be better than what your GML is expecting. Also, with clear coating it won't be as big of an issue because the plastic is already black and not painted black. Essentially you'll a light coat or two over each piece letting them dry between coats and it should make it glossy.

The elastic U-shaped section should be red. Even though it isn't defined in the text part of the CRL it is in the picture and criterion for review of a costume includes both the text AND picture. I will explore possibly adding this as clarification in the pending CRL just so that there is no confusion.

I believe that Plastic Arms Dealer sells the 3D print file if you are just needing someone to print it. They have a website: https://www.plasticarmsdealer.com/

Excellent! I would have been hard pressed to find someone who would think it is not ok.

Unless the DLT-19 was in the comic or on the toy I don't think it'd be at the CRL level. That's not to say you can't use it in troops at discretion of the garrison, but there wouldn't be any criterion here per say. Here are the references from the toy for the E-11 and DLT-20a: And the one from the comic for the SE-14R:

Yep I think it'll be your GML's call as @Blackwatch stated, but being a GML myself I think what will help yours is the "similar heavy material bit". I can't speak for them but as long as it looks heavy you'd be fine in my eyes. Checking with the GML as you are doing is a great idea!

I second adding the DLT-20a.

And due to the fact that I've noticed that how the red is rendered varies greatly with the camera used. From that perspective I think we would be making it harder for the applicant and GML if they send pics in. Consistent color amongst all armor pieces I feel is the most fair.

I'm fine with adding those references using the standard weapons verbiage we have found for them.

Yeah the snaps or popper method seems to be the most common with things. When I meant detachment only here is the easiest way to look at it: Basic level is gets you into the 501st Legion. Level 2 gets your special recognition within the Detachment, in this case the Special Operations Detachment. It just adds a lot more detail to the costume to make it more accurate/detailed. It isn't required for 501st membership but once you get membership you can apply for Level 2.

Welcome, Brandt! If you haven't already you should give the CRL a view which will show the 501st standards for the costume: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_magmatrooper As for the rivets and such the side stuff on the kidney and ab plates are optional unless you are going to go for level 2 on the costume which is a detachment only program. Which means that you can still get approved for the 501st without them, just would have to add them to get level 2 with the detachment. The way that you suit up the costume and have the parts all hang together and on you is largely dependent on whatever feels the most comfortable. Personally for myself I use a lot of velcro to keep the stuff together and and snaps where they work. But I know people who are 100% velcro or 100% snaps, just depends.

Added the following under Helmet: "Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh."