ELP

here's a few pictures from Gambler's World ... Ahhh the 70's: Gambler's World - originally published April 18th, 1979 Gambler's World - originally published April 13th, 1979 Gambler's World - originally published April 11th, 1979 The strips are from this site: Link

welcome - And good choice. The AM kits currently for sale are really nice. pm incoming.

Nice Bucket!

your best bets are probably the cheapest ones: - Boty perka gumová - Boty perka gumová zimní (not HKM version) They have the elastic on the side, the elastic is the proper shape, no extra stitching, no leather frills on the elastic. The Boty perka Roping Jacson may work as well but the elastic is getting a bit big and it's a bit more square but now I'm just being picky. And just to let you know those boots are a great price compared to what we can get here in North America.

Looks great - thanks for sharing.

Also feel free to join our facebook page and there is a post from one of the main vendors right there ... Wade. It's what I'm wearing.

Hooked on Armour ... Come on you've only got an ESB TK, a TB, A Vader and a Fett in the works and you're looking at a Shadow Scout ... Yea, I guess that is a lot ... for a beginner KIDDING! Dude - leave some for the rest of us . Welcome and enjoy!

Congrats on getting in - Good looknig kit - Nice job on the thighs!

Congrats PT! Well done! Now go get some TX only Merch

ouch - red and black +$40. Thanks for the info.

Howdy and welcome MCL is also on bikerscout.net and he can set you up with pictures, costs, etc. look in the 'for sale area'. This is not an endorsement just a place where you can track him down... Though in my humble opinion he does really good work.

Hmmm ... Pandatrooper over on FISD has a great tutorial for the AM kit. I can't find it though. He's not a big guy so he may well have cut down the forearms but I can't find it. It should be on the FISD in the Assembly or tutorials section. Easiest way to make the cut is to use masking tape as a guide. Line one edge up with the original edge and go all the way around the forearm. Now you've got a line to follow (the other edge of the masking tape) that replicates the original shape and lines of the piece. And I'd strongly suggest keeping to the original shape as much as possible so as to avoid any potential complications with approval.

I believe that the controls did allow at one time for grey ear bumps (similar to the TK). I believe the costume controls have been updated and this is no longer the standard for newer costumes. This is a picture of Izzi's helmets (from left to right GT/FX, eFX, CAP-W Stunt) The control says, as you've correctly written that "The body of the ear caps must be either gloss black or flat black", so I'd stick with that. Izzi will probably be around tomorrow and he'll be able to give you the exact details regarding his lid.

As the proud owner of size 12 feet, and size 12 bass boots I've encountered this before. What works for me is as follows: When I put the boots on I wrap the tops with black duct tape - Basically it keeps the top lip of the boot tight against my leg and with the tape being black it all blends in. You may also need to 'tie down" the shin pieces - I use two snaps per boot attached to the shins with strong fabric elastic. Lets the shins move around a bit but the elastic pulls everything back into place when needed. You can make a set of stirrups to go under the heel. The other challenge with the Bass is the opening of the boot (where you put your foot in) is HUGE compaired to a TK boot. Having said that between the tape and the 'tie downs" everything works really well. It's tricky getting dressed by yourself but after a bit of practice it's do-able ... But a handler is always easier. any questions let me know.

Looks Good - nice build. Quick question ... My kit didn't come with a disposable rebel ... Did you have to pay extra .

Welcome to the club brother ... welcome to the club. And all the foam is on Velco so it can be moved around /replaced / removed. After wearing my eFX all day I have a serious case of Helmet envy.

I think, if I understand correctly, that everyone here is saying "yes, that will probably get you into the 501st", (Darth is right if it doesn't fit well you'll need to make changes before you're accepted) but there are pros and cons ... And most people are trying to make sure you are aware of what you're getting into. Here is my list of the Pros and Cons: Pro: - It's Pre Built (may save you time, and be easier to do if you're not in a place that has easy access to the needed tools, straps, etc.) - Con: - It's Pre Built (If you need to adjust the fit on anything you won't have the tools or know how to easily do it, you also won't have a pre-existing kit for repairs after troops or to make the constant modification / tweaks we all do) - Expensive (And I mean REALLY expensive - look in the "for sale" area here and you'll see what kits can be bought for) - If the Shoulder Straps and Back Plate connection picture ( 2nd from right, also attached below for quick reference) is indicative of the "professional strapping system" I'd stay away. This is an ad photo and if that is the best they can do that's both terrible and scary. - The TD looks to be about 2 inches too long - Belt is a non-shiney material. Fine for 501st acceptance but if you want to go for the Detachment award "specialist" you'll need a shiney one. - The ankles look really skinny. Not really a problem but most troopers who use the Bass Amsterdam benefit from a wider ankle in case they need to strap down the shin (as they tend to ride up above the lip of the boot). - And best of all the line "accommodates 5'6" - 6'2" " ... I don't recall the last time I bought a suit that said: fits from 5 and a half feet tall to over 6 feet tall. So there is no possible way it'll fit you perfectly out of the box. You'll need foam shims, you'll have gaps, things will rub, etc. Yes you can probably adjust the "professional strapping" but the thigh diameter won't change, and that may be a HUGE problem. - The local community knowledge base is built around the "home built kits" ... There isn't a lot of knowledge about how to effectively tweak an SDS without resorting to trimming, shimming and gluing... and if you're willing to do that then why not get your own "DIY kit". And as a note: the fit of 5 foot 6 to over 6 feet is probably based on the average European Male. So if you're not of average European male build (read: female, thinner then average, bigger then average) then that is another strike against this kit. Not to toot my own horn (but I'm gonna) the last time I built anything out of a boxed plastic kit (before these suits) was in 1978, it was an F-104 Starfighter aircraft with my Grandfather. While the Trooper kits may look daunting to assemble, they are pretty straight forward, and there is a great community here to help at every step of the way. Shoulder strap / Back Plate attachment: - Pretty standard use of Velcro but my concern is if they allow the photo they use to sell the product look this bad what will they let your kit / strapping look like. The strap on the right of the pic isn't attached and the one on the left is just barely attached. And as a bonus you get a view of the Giant TD.

my wife's RT ... this is how it arrived ... He does good work: I've got the eFX and due to my large head there is no padding, or room for anything fancy ... it's all business in there baby ... hot, sweaty loud business.

I like the look of the matte black clips. Well done, great eye for detail!

Good Info - I predominantly used E6000 and what I found that creates a great bond is sand both surfaces you are going to bond well, wet and dry wipe to clean the surfaces - apply e6000 to BOTH sides (as you said), let sit for 30 seconds and then put the pieces together. The instructions say it's good to go after 5 minutes ... I always leave the joint under pressure (with clamps) for 24 hours. A bit overly cautious but so far I have had no issues with glue / bonds coming apart. I also found it a great help to 'mock up' what you want to do first ... Make sure the fit is perfect, that I've got the proper sized clamps lined up for pressure, and I used tongue depressors glued together to make a 'spreader' of sorts so when I apply a clamp (especially for the thighs) the pressure is applied across a larger area to get a stronger and more even bond. Good Info - Thanks!

Well give your kit a good try first ... If you're having your Chest and back meet on the sides (as it looks like you might) then the top (chest and back) probably would sit fine. I have mine gapped so without being tied down the back rides up.

That's a good looking kit! Well done! My only suggestion would be to put a strap / tie down between the chest and ab, and the back and kidney/butt ... The reason is that the weight of your sound system will cause your chest piece to slightly roll forward as you walk, and this slight shift forward will cause your back piece to move up and flair out. It's a really tiny thing but I had the same issue. No one seemed to notice except me when I saw my trooping pics. But that is just a suggestion - You kit looks great! Well done!

Have a look at the control pics (post at the top of this area) for information about standards. here QUOTE: * AB PLATE: May have a fixed or hinged cod for added mobility. Cut cannot be visible from the front.The ab plate also has a button area. All 9 buttons are approximately 7/16" in diameter and gloss black in color Button example: If you want to paint the buttons you should be able to detach them or if not a delicate bit of primer and then painting with high gloss model paint should do the trick.

My own two cents ... I'd say go for it. If it matches - great, if it's not a perfect match but pretty close you'd have a heck of a piece of "bling" for your kit. And really what's the worst case scenario - You get to buy another paulderon ... I think something like that: "antique leather" doesn't come up very often ... And as the saying goes ... It's better to not need and have, then need and not have. Again just my 2 cents. And congrats on starting to aquire your kit !