Chef

I have done bro... Haven't got anything new from you recently. Do you want to send it again or just post it in here?

There are two possible issues for this. Either you're spraying too far away in which case you're getting 'dry' spray dusting on the surface, or you are spraying too close and you're ending up with 'orange peel' (basically where the force of the propellant affects the paint surface). Both issues are not insurmountable. Depending on how bad it is will determine the best solution. Either way, it's going to end up with some degree of flatting back and possibly some re-spraying. Basically, you'll need to get some wet and dry sand paper, (you'll need a number of various grits ranging from 800 down to 2000). Firstly soak the paper in water and then give the helmet a rub over. Rub in circular motions and don't dwell on any one spot. After that initial hit, dry the lid off and rub off any dust. You'll now be able to see exactly how bad it is. The low spots will still be gloss, and the high spots will be 'dull' where they have been sanded. Now at this stage you can either re-spray to build up the thickness of paint, or you can flat back further. Flatting back risks striking through the paint to the panel underneath, and further painting can risk wrinkling the paint or other stupid paint side effects. So it really is a judgement call on your part. But either way... When you have flatted the helmet so al the high/low spots have been removed and the paint is the same 'level' all over (it will be all 'dull' from flatting) then you move on to the stage of reducing the grit to remove the sanding 'swirls'. Progressively use finer and finer grades of wet and dry to remove the swirls from the previous grit. Again you need to be conscious of not striking through the paint to the panel below. When you've got down to around 2000 grit, you can switch to a cutting compound or polish and then finish up the lid with a polish. That will take it to a high gloss. There's no real quick way to deal with it I'm afraid.

I think that's a damned fine effort. It's obviously very feminine, but I do like how it is also authentic to the original suit and not 'trashy' as some of the 'fem' stuff tends to be. You don't need to see flesh for it to be feminine. The "Killer Heels" equivalent of the TK boots is a nice touch. You're right, the helmet is a bit massive, but I don't think it detracts from the overall look. I wouldn't want the sculptor to essentially change the detail on the lid to make it 'fem', probably just make it a teeny bit smaller to match the petiteness of the rest of the suit. Other area I'd look at are the knee area of the thighs. Looks like there is a lot of room in there, and what with the rest of the suit being so form fitting, it makes the bit around the knee look disproportionately large. I don't know if it's possible to form fit this area a little more?? Tastefully done. Nice one.

that's cool...

I assume you're aware of the potential wait period using FAC? Personally I'd just clarify the lead time on his armour before parting with any money to make sure you are happy.

They're good. Ask him for the matte ones which have the gloss detailing on them. They're even better.

I would suggest you try to keep the green the same shade, rather than going darker. But I can't see an issue with using a matte finish over a high gloss one.

Keep us posted with pictures!

Yup, Jeff's stuff is a good solid choice for you chaps over in the states. Can't go wrong with it

Yeah, the return on the shoulder straps is only about 4-5mm. Just enough to give a impression of thickness to the armour. I have to admit that during a slight revision of that area on the bucks, I filled in the trim lines! whoops... Haven't put them back in yet.

Steve... It's a Storm Commando... No overlaps or clacky stuff on it! Travel Light = Move Fast. I don't tend to pad any of the armour parts, not really required as none of it is essentially uncomfortable. I do suggest putting a little strip of padding on the inside of the lower knee (along the bottom) as the return edge on the knee plate can (and will) rub and this can get ruddy annoying after a few hours! Straps wise, I just glue the elastic on the inside of the armour parts using a squirt of hot glue (but E6000 will do the job just as well). The elastic will have enough 'stretch' in it to allow you to remove the armour bits no problem. To hold them in place on the suit you can either put a popper on the suit and one on the back of the armour part (this can be uncomfortable if you get one in a funny spot) or use patches of velcro. Both do the same job. Velcro takes more time as you need to sew it to the suit, but it requires less 'accuracy' as you can move the bits around on the patch. Poppers are faster, can be potentially uncomfortable and you need to get the popper in exactly the right spot or it will always sit wrong. You won't want to start 'siting' your armour on the suit until all the parts are ready. By all means get the velcro on the back of them, but don't put anything on the suit until you know where everything is going to go. This part of the process isn't entirely necessary for clearance as you just need to get the look right at this stage, but you'll definitely want to do it prior to trooping as your armour bits will shift about as you move.

Well done... We still want pictures! No pics = it didn't happen. hehehehe/

That's the thing... You don't necessarily need to 'change' anything. It's just about the way you put it on. The biceps just get moved up a notch and twisted round. Belt get's lowered to match the bund, rather than sitting up in the small of your back and the pouches just get attached a little higher on the outer edge. If you can get them held there for your clearance pictures you'll be good to go. That's when the fun starts... Because at that point you'll go trooping and you'll find out about which bits fall off, which bits shift and twist, which bits rub you raw and just exactly how toasty you get. And at that point, you'll go back and start securing stuff down, modifying bits to make them more comfortable and all that.

Only a couple of point that I would bring up (and it's not me who will be clearing it, it will be your GML). I would say try and line up the pouches so they sit vertical. Tweak the outer edges upwards so it pulls them straight. Lower your belt at the back, it's sitting too high and you can see the bund poking down below it. either that or raise the bund a bit at the back, or a combination of both. Bicep armour needs to come around to the outside a bit, and raise up so it closes the gap to the shoulder armour. (I've sent you a couple of graphics over on FB.... but it's 0230hrs here and I'm too tired to upload them to photo bucket and link them in here!).

For the most part, the trimming can be done with sandpaper or a file. Not sure what palm sander you've got, but I am sure it will be useful. Make note of the trim lines (best visible on the inside of the parts). Use these as your guide. Big areas can be removed using aviation snips like these... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-X-HEAVY-DUTY-AVIATION-TIN-SNIPS-SET-SHEET-METAL-CUTTERS-LEFT-RIGHT-STRAIGHT-/391205784476?hash=item5b15ae8b9c (oddly I find the left hand one the most useful). A Dremel (or other rotary tool) whilst not essential, is an absolute godsend. Get a sanding drum on it (usually supplied with it), and a little router bit and a drill... It will make short work of cutting the slots for the straps. Sand paper grades wise.... I start with 40 on a block (just a bit of wood will do) and sand them to the right shape. I then finish up with a quick skim of 120 to smooth them off. Paint wise... They do look better in Satin in my opinion. Which is best... Well, that's a matter of opinion. But any automotive style paint will be fine. Just make sure you use the same type throughout. Paint is fickle and using different brands of paint 'can' have serious issues. So if you choose 'X' brand of top coat, make sure you use 'X' brand for the primer too. Or do tests first to check compatibility. You don't necessarily need to prime the main armour parts as they are black already. Just give them a light key with some 400 grit wet and dry paper, and then spray. This way, when they get scratched (and they will over time), the paint will just show black underneath and not a grey primer. This type of weathering does look cool and adds a real nice visual dimension to your suit over the ages. Painting is best done before all the straps are put in place, but it is not essential (the paint won't show on the straps anyway should you get a bit of overspray). Just take your time, don't be afraid of it. There should have been a load of spare plastic (grey stuff) in there, so just use some of it as test material to get the hang of what does what. I'll be here to answer any questions as well.

In answer to the 2nd part of your question... Yes, Storm Commando's can carry an E11.

Best to look at the reference pictures at the top of this section. There is some scope for more than just 'white' weathering. Remember, less is more. I wouldn't go overboard. It's a Swamp Trooper, not Swamp Thing!

Boots are different, thermal detonator is different and needs to be scratch built. Detailing on the helmet and tank are different, blaster is different as are the gloves.... They're subtle... but significant.

Well done dude... Get a thread started in the Specialist Section and we'll get that ball rolling.

see my post regarding the Storm Commandos.... (it's like a Steve Jackson Fighting Fantasy novel...)

see my post regarding the Swampy.

I'm in the process of updating my 'Scout' build tutorial as it has a few holes in it at the moment. It won't be a 'video', more a tutorial with pictures... I can't do video (if you've ever seen me, you'll know why!). It is essentially the same as building a Storm Commando and the Swampy's and Forest troopers too, so it can be cross pollinated for all of those costumes. I've got 'helmet' and 'armour' ones already, but they are a bit 'sketchy'. Serviceable... but sketchy.

That green looks pretty good. The green HIPS I use is 'reasonably' dark anyway, but flash and lighting make it look a bit lighter that it is in the flesh. They are a more 'emerald' style green than a 'bottle' style green on the armour parts although no specific shade/code has been specified. Weathering is fine on either, in fact it's positively encouraged... It is a 'swampy' after all. The Animated/Realistic versions relate to some specific details within the costume itself, and depending on which route you are going to take will determine what details you need to follow. My suggestion is to go the 'realistic' route as it will require less changes to your suit in the long run. Keep us updated and I shall be on hand to pass on any information you require.

That's a million times better bro. Everything nicely in proportion. The chest is always going to look a bit small on you because you're beefcake. But to combat that, just angle the shoulder bells in forward a little (it'll open the gaps on the back, but you don't get many pictures taken of your back). Good luck with your submission (should be an easy pass... push them in my direction if you get any static). Next is specialist (few tweaks for that... but we'll get you there).

And balance is restored to the force!