DoggyDoc

I used the Tamiya Metalic black with an airbrush. I masked off the black areas which were painted first, then clear coated over everything. I then masked off the non matte black areas and did a matte clear coat over the gloss one to give the matted finish

Just a tip, I coated the inside of my armour with Plastidip and it helped huge with the fibreglass irritation but found afterwards, that I had to sand it off in areas that needed to be bonded with strapping or seams as the plastidip will peel away and the bond will not hold.

Hi Salvir. according to the CRL, (Shall be rubber or a smooth semi-gloss black material with sewn ribs.) the ribbed material needs to be semi gloss to look like rubber. The stitch lines do need to be visible, so they are sewn on. I did not see mine, but bought it from Jim Tripon with my armour. His order suit is likely one of the best and when you consider the cost of material, the skill and time to make your own, his is very reasonable.

Hi Oscar. I have not had any experience with Imperial Arms. Looking at their products, they seem to be reasonable well made from the photos but it is hard to tell if everything is sized right as the E-11D has a specific size requirement in the CRL. The other thing to be cautious of is the quality option. The basic quality has print lines visible and would not be approvable. The premium would be a must for a 501st approvable blaster.

I did use an airbrush but I think the LP line can be painted on. The main reason I went with it was because of the black alcad lacquer which is an airbrush paint. The main thing was to keep the paint types similar, so there was no worry about the paints reacting with each other. You should be fine with the ones you picked.

Hi Jeroen, welcome to spec ops. The death trooper build can be challenging but well worth it in the end. ‘For the silver, I used the Tamiya LP11 and for the metallic black, for the silver I used the Tamiya LP40 and weathered it with the black. I went with the lacquer paints as my blacks were also lacquer from alcad. ‘Your choices should all be ok. The main one is the metallic black being the #40. Looking forward to your build.

Hi Todd, not sure that there is a specific fabric for the ribbed undersuit. The ribs need to be sewn in, so it will be a matter of creating the fabric yourself. Here are some photos of mine

I only found Ople Props when I was doing mine. Not sure if there are others out there.

My experience was pretty smooth.

Hey James. If you look at the CRL, for Lecel 2, return edges should be present on the biceps, chest and back but not be more than 3.8” wide. The wrist part of the forearm like the TK, is removed (also a level 2 item)

PLA will have issues with heat if they are left in a car etc, so you will need to be more careful with them. I use petg for my prints as it holds up to heat better.

Paul. I have the ones I created. I can send them when I am home in a couple of days

No reason. I felt that attaching it via screw would be more secure as it is a very minimal contact attachment

Congratulations Anthony. Great job on the build. Awesome to have another death trooper in the ranks.

I embedded 1/2 of a Chicago stud into the knee plate with j weld and then drilled a hole through the thigh armour to screw them together

I bought the same lenses and did not get the mounting system. Had I seen it, I likely would have bought it as they are not easy to install since they are glass and you can’t drill holes in them. I ended up designing and printing clips to hold the lens in place with screws anchored to the helmet with JB weld.

I think it looks good.

Looking great Anthony. Should be a slam dunk for basic approval

I had to add a few inches to my shins as my calves are larger than most people. As a result, I may not be the best help with this. Widening the part will be a big undertaking and I don’t think you can remove the JB weld without risking breaking the fibreglass and ruining the shin. The boot stuffing may be your best bet if there is no room to take in the lower legs on the undersuit. My undersuit fit like a pair of pants and I tightened up the legs to make them skin tight. I actually need to turn them inside out to get them off. This helped reduce the amount of material I had to add to my shin a fair bit. The Velcro on the bottom to hold it in place sounds like it would be the best place to start as it is easy and can be reversed. Maybe try the shins on with a bit of a gap in the back (Velcro closure not pulled snug) first and see if it fixes the issue.

Congratulations Shane

It is this simple. You just need to rotate them so the ladder detail area is in line with your elbow.

Other than the back pouch, I think it looks good.

I had a bunch of problems with my clear coat not being very shiny and found that using a car polisher with a cutting compound followed by a buffing polish made it really shine. Not sure if this is the solution for you but it saved me repainting.

Hi Anthony, Looks like everything is coming along nicely. Just a few dressing adjustments to make in my opinion. With your forearms, the ladder detail should be more towards your elbow with the cut out at the top portion of the forearm accommodating the bend of your elbow. Your cutout is more to the back and will be uncomfortable when bending. Your Biceps could also come down slightly Reference for fore arms and biceps. Note how the top of the forearm cuts down in the front to accommodate the bend in the elbow. With your belt, the 2 pouches in the front should be symmetrical on either side of the buckle Finally, when you put your thermal detonator on, you are going to have to either move the kidney piece up or the belt down slightly to prevent the pouch from hitting it

Hi Chris. ‘Welcome to spec ops. Looking forward to seeing your build. ‘’I used rubber pipe coupling to make my rubber straps. Here is the one I used. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/pro-connect-flexible-coupling-4/1000120022