DoggyDoc

If you look at the screen shots, the ribbed piece is a lot narrower and the armour pieces do connect at the bottom.

I think the silver looks ok. Will tone down the metalicity (I made that word up) when you weather it.

Wow. That is a lot of fine detail to carve out you did a good job but there may be a bit too much roughness at the base of the grooves. Not sure how hard it would be to try and sand it smoother . @Chaos has a better idea of if it would pass for level 2. I suspect it would get basic approval still

I suspect you would be okay with those paints. Maybe do a test run ona small piece of plastic that primed to make sure the paints don’t cause issues with each other. ‘Not sure about the holes in the back but yes, just putting a piece of matte black ABS likely would do the trick.

I used automotive door edge trim rubber. Here is the one I used.

I sprayed mine with plastidip and then applied peel and stick neoprene to line the inside. To get the fit right I used helmet pads from amazon https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07V6HRLV5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08YX68K96/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I would worry that putting a piece of ABS plastic would be tough to get to lay down evenly. Printing a new piece like you show would fit better. Another alternative would be build up the top part with some kind of filler and then taper it into the thigh armour itself. Once it has been flattened, the. You could demolish a groove into area that needs it. It may be tough to get a straight and even groove this way though.

Hey Philip. There are a few things that I can see that may be an issue with both basic and level 2 approval. With respect to the thermal detonator, for level 2, the CRL states; There are two small notches on the outer ⅕ of each side of the canister approximately 3/4" (20mm) from the inner edge of the end caps and spaced approximately 1" to 1.25" (25-30mm) apart on the lower edge of each horizontal grooves. Refer to reference photos for specific details. These appear to be missing on your print and should be in the area marked with the arrows ‘With respect to the thighs, the basic approval for the CRL reads; Both thighs shall have a diagonal raised detailing to the front running from the outer ribbed panel to the raise cover strip. This detailing continues from the cover strip to the base of the thigh armor as a recessed groove rather than a raised strip. On your thighs, the groove is actually a raised area as shown with the arrows. This may block you from basic approval but it will be up to your GML ultimately.

Glad you were able to save some of the pieces.

Hope it is a bit better for you tomorrow

So sorry you had such a bad setback. can you not sand the Bondo down ? I tend to use the Bondo glazing and spot putty that comes in the tube. No mixing needed and sands easily.

I did my strapping similar to my stormtrooper costume with snap plates. I know @Chaos has his very differently strapped which seems to allow for more mobility. i have not printed a full set of armour, but some of the smaller parts such as buckles and D rings did snap and I reprinted with some flexible resin combined with normal resin. As far as filament goes, I would suspect the full armour pieces will be fairly strong. Hopefully someone with printed armour will comment as well .

I use the same primer on all parts resin, fibreglass and filament. It then will give the same base for the paint layer that way.

I like the Duplicolor Primer and Filler. It goes on well and fills small defects. I have used the trembles and rustoleum primer fillers and they were okay but not as good as the duplicolor one

I can get you the strap and buckle files I used, just pm me and I will send them. Maybe you can get someone that has a filament printer to print the straps in TPU for you. Woth respect to the boots, I also have a size 13 foot and have bought 4 pairs of boots from them and have been happy every time.

Getting the soft parts and accessories early on is a good idea so that you have everything ready as you need it for the build. Sometimes parts may be coming from overseas so can take a few weeks or more to arrive. If everything is printed, I would likely start at the top of the CRL and go piece by piece to see what may need to be changed. Since you will be painting the armour, you can either make modifications to pieces, or if not possible replace them with more accurate pieces. Any modifications or differences in colour will be covered by the paint. As you go along, post photos so others can help you along the way if you are not sure. You will also be creating a good reference for anyone that may be in your situation down the road.

Hi Matthew. Great to see you starting your build thread. Use this thread to post photos of your progress, and yes. Use imgur. It works great for photos as you are very limited on size and number of files you can directly upload to the forum. With respect to your thighs, the ribbing and the thigh need to be one piece. You can but rubber matting as mentioned above and use them to join the solid pieces together to make the full thigh. I suspect this was the plan for the files when they were created. Please ask lots of questions. We are here to help.

I can sit when I am dressing and just have my thighs and shins on when putting on my boots, but once my suspenders are on and the upper body armour is on, I ca’t sit. Sitting in full armour is generally tough.

Hi Matthew, Welcome to spec ops and congratulations on your choice of costume. The death trooper is a res;y fun one to wear and gets a very different reaction from fans. @J47555 and @Chaos have given you a great place to start. My advice is don’t be shy or feel a question is not worth asking. We are here to help and want you succeed in looking your best as a death trooper.

It’s nice finding deals that let you add to your costume workshop. I found a belt sander on sale early on and it is one of my favourite tools. Jim is a great choice for the undersuit.

Not sure if it is me or not but the images are not showing up

I believe they were actually ribbed rubber in the actual costumes. The CRL states: The ribbed infill shall be made of black rubber, or a semi-gloss black material, or if part of the thigh pieces, have the appearance of being rubber or rubber-like material. Mine were moulded into the fibreglass, so I finished them to look like rubber. For yours, You would likely put ribbed rubber in the gaps.

Hi Phillip. Welcome to Spec Ops. Great costume choice (nope I am not partial LOL) looking forward to following your build progress make sure to feel free to ask questions. Lots of very knowledgeable people here.

One of the DO staff should probably comment on this, but I think the second photo where it was pushed in and your wife stepped back looks the best. I have Velcro on the tabs for the chest piece that goes under my arms to hold it to the back piece. The only thing you need to watch is that the side buckle straps will have room. The blue area is where the Velcro is and the green line marks the back of the side strap, which is the farthest forward the back piece could come. I think it’s finding the balance of closing the gap between your body and the chest plate, while keeping the tusks at a lower profile.

Mine were gloss black