DoggyDoc

Hi again Jed. I had a closer look at the helmet you posted and I have some concerns that it will need to be modified for basic approval. The last thing I would want to have happen is that you pay a pretty penny for the helmet only to find it will not be approved. Here are the issues that I can see from their sales page. The main issue is the paint scheme. The helmet should have alternating metallic black and gloss black panels and is asymmetrically painted . The Cyber craft helmet appears to be flat and gloss black but is symmetrically painted. Here is the CRL color scheme compared to the cyber craft helmet. You would need to repaint the helmet to make it ready for basic approval. CRL: Helmet has elongated angular face plates separated by a nose bridge. The angular plates are layered in appearance. Alternating metallic black panels starting with: Left side plate directly under the eye lens. Right side angular outer face plate. Left side angular plate closest to the nose bridge. With respect to the vents on the side, it does not look like they are lined with the steel mesh. If not, you may need to open up the inside of the hlemt to put the mesh in place. CRL: There is a side panel silver aluminum in color with 8 rectangular vent slots, even in size and spacing on each side of the face plate. The vents are cut out and lined with steel small mesh and backed with black material. The side panels are slightly weathered with matte black paint. The final thing you would need to ensure are that the details on the back of the helmet are correct as there is no rear view on the cyber craft website.

Hi Jed. Welcome to Spec Ops. Awesome choice of costume. The build is pretty gruelling but it is so much fun to wear and looks so impressive. make sure to ask lots of questions as you go, we are here to help you on your journey.

I use a cod strap to connect my cod and butt plates. You may try to raise your back plate up a bit if your butt plate is too low (after the cod strap is installed). This will pull the butt up under the belt slightly and help to hold it in place All in all it is looking good. There is a lot of adjusting in the early stages.

Congratulations

Looks good. Maybe we can get the converse shoes in as an optional accessory. 😂

I have my chest piece tucking under my back piece as I think it looks cleaner. I found this screen capture where it looks like the back is over the chest however. The question is, did the connection just come undone and the pieces opened up while they were running and going into the position in the photo?

I found that the E6000 did not hold the front of the shins as there is a lot of strain on it when you open the back up. I did use the JB weld on mine.

Those are the exact products that I used. ‘This is the mask that I use for everything from sanding to painting. It is from Home Depot Canada but you can likely find a similar one on Amazon https://www.homedepot.ca/product/workhorse-dual-cartridge-half-mask-p94-organic-vapour-filter-respirator/1001105368

Sorry. Didn’t catch the original post. That is the one I bought for my death trooper E-11D and it is great. Just had to paint out the writing on it, which was really easy

Good luck.

@MKE-Trooper. Glad it was helpful

For sure the leg cramp and the neck and shoulder strain for me trying to reach my foot to get the boots on with the thighs and calf pieces already on is real. The issue with keeping them in 2 pieces will be the seam at the front as you mentioned.

I actually had to reshape mine using a hot water bath to get them to sit right.

It is not removing the section, but instead removing the padding from the section to “deflate” the boot some to make it smaller. I am not sure if it was there and / or the tongue section that Chaos “unstuffed”. if you need some help with technique for making the shins bigger, I can walk you through the process I used. It is pretty well outlined on my build page though. One other thing To be careful with I thought of while reading your posts is that when you put your shins on, be very careful not to open them too wide or they will crack down the front. I did this the first time I did a test fit. When I put them on, I do so before the boots and point my toe to get my heel and ankle as narrow as possible, then slide it through with the shin rotated 90 degrees as it is wider to accommodate my heal that way. Once on, I pull them up above my ankle to allow me to get the boots on, then drop them down over the boot and close them.

I think we all get that goofy kid grin as we see our costume taking form when we start to put it on. I ran around the house arresting family members when I first put on my stormtrooper costume

Looks great

Sorry this happened but definitely better now than after it was already painted. I have not pieced together 3D prints but have used CA glue and plastic bond to glue parts on blasters

If you look at the screen shots, the ribbed piece is a lot narrower and the armour pieces do connect at the bottom.

I think the silver looks ok. Will tone down the metalicity (I made that word up) when you weather it.

Wow. That is a lot of fine detail to carve out you did a good job but there may be a bit too much roughness at the base of the grooves. Not sure how hard it would be to try and sand it smoother . @Chaos has a better idea of if it would pass for level 2. I suspect it would get basic approval still

I suspect you would be okay with those paints. Maybe do a test run ona small piece of plastic that primed to make sure the paints don’t cause issues with each other. ‘Not sure about the holes in the back but yes, just putting a piece of matte black ABS likely would do the trick.

I used automotive door edge trim rubber. Here is the one I used.

I sprayed mine with plastidip and then applied peel and stick neoprene to line the inside. To get the fit right I used helmet pads from amazon https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07V6HRLV5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08YX68K96/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I would worry that putting a piece of ABS plastic would be tough to get to lay down evenly. Printing a new piece like you show would fit better. Another alternative would be build up the top part with some kind of filler and then taper it into the thigh armour itself. Once it has been flattened, the. You could demolish a groove into area that needs it. It may be tough to get a straight and even groove this way though.

Hey Philip. There are a few things that I can see that may be an issue with both basic and level 2 approval. With respect to the thermal detonator, for level 2, the CRL states; There are two small notches on the outer ⅕ of each side of the canister approximately 3/4" (20mm) from the inner edge of the end caps and spaced approximately 1" to 1.25" (25-30mm) apart on the lower edge of each horizontal grooves. Refer to reference photos for specific details. These appear to be missing on your print and should be in the area marked with the arrows ‘With respect to the thighs, the basic approval for the CRL reads; Both thighs shall have a diagonal raised detailing to the front running from the outer ribbed panel to the raise cover strip. This detailing continues from the cover strip to the base of the thigh armor as a recessed groove rather than a raised strip. On your thighs, the groove is actually a raised area as shown with the arrows. This may block you from basic approval but it will be up to your GML ultimately.