DoggyDoc

With respect to the ribbing on the thighs, the CRL says that they should look like rubber as I believe the screen used ones were. They can however be rigid and just painted to look like rubber. I sprayed mine with Plastidip to get the effect. with respect to the smaller parts, they should look proportional to the armour but I don’t think it will make too much of a difference for the buckles. The ammo clips need to fit into the chest rig, which I believe has specific dimensions , so that would need to likely not be adjusted.

I would suspect that you would be best to scale it to the size of the wearer before printing if possible to reduce the risk of damaging printed pieces if trying to cut them down. This is just a suggestion however as I have not 3 D printed armour pieces.

I actually used UV resin to smooth out the outer pieces. It fills defects well and sands very easily. Careful with the fumes as they can be quite noxious. I use sirayatech resin as it has low fumes and does not smell bad. There are also water soluble resins that are a bit easier to clean up rather than the normal ones that need alcohol to clean. just apply thin layers then cure and slowly build it up. I used UV resin to make the raised details on my shins after I extended them. The white areas are UV resin.

Here is the little groove you need to add for this part for level 2 There is an indented groove approximately 1/2" (12mm) wide that runs along the inside bottom of both shins from the rear center to the beginning of the front boot arc. This detail is partially covered by the triangular closure flap.

Hi Marc. congratulations on your upcoming death trooper build. I went with Marc McLean’s blaster files and found them to be excellent. I am not familiar with the premier props ones however. here is the link to Martin’s files https://cults3d.com/en/search?q=Mcm_design

It makes sense that it would help increase the protection just like a car finish. Not sure how well it will hold up to scratches as it will be a pretty thin layer.

I always put my undersuit on when doing fitting to ensure everything is sitting where it will be when done. Latex exam gloves would be a good idea for your hands. Otherwise a long sleeve and long pants compression suit base layer would likely work.

I did the Plastidip first but regretted it afterward as it adds a bunch of work to sand it off. If I were to do it again, I would likely do all of the strapping on the body parts before doing the Plastidip. the only parts that I would Plastidip first would be the forearms and shins with the areas to be glued masked off as this parts have no strapping.

Those look pretty close to the ones I have. Nice find

Congratulations. Great job. You can wear it with pride.

My helmet (Jimiroquai) fits my head well. I know that some others have had to go to bigger helmets though. Can’t remember the name of the armourer but the one from Russia apparently fits large.

Not sure how to get around this. Mine were ok for length. Without cutting. There was still a fair bit of room at the wrist and elbow if it had to be a bit longer. Maybe different armorors products may fit different?

Nice job on the sewing. are you going to fill them with something rigid to give them more form?

I put a piece of Velcro on the very corner of the cover and then matched it with another piece on the boot to lock it down.

Looking good. The end is so close

Very exciting. Make sure to share unboxing photos.

Nice looking kit. Waiting for the Big Brown Box is one of the toughest parts of the process, but so sweet once it arrives.

Looking forward to this one.

I got mine from Jim Tripon.

So after 3 troops, I have noticed that the D rings are not holding up well. I bumped a shoulder one with my blaster and snapped it off, and the side straps also came off as the glue did not hold. I am reprinting the buckles with a 1:3 Siraya Tech Fast:Tenacious resin mix the tenacious resin is flexible, so it should still be fairly firm but at least have a bit of flex if it gets pushed against. ‘For the side straps, I dremelled out pockets in the underside and embedded Chicago Screws using plastic weld. Then I drilled holes into the chest piece to secure them. I also am in the process of moving the hole in the neuro-Saav as it is in the incorrect location. Original location new location

Here are the dimensions of the d rings as promised. The shoulder ones are 48.6 mm wide by 45.6 mm long The side ones are 66.4mm wide by 60.6mm long

I haven’t got much experience working with metal but maybe you can figure out how to polish it if it isn’t too diffivult and avoid buying a new set. Maybe they will just refund you without-t sending it back and you can order the new set as an alternative.

Here are a couple photos of the pieces that I didn’t use. I just found out tonight that the neurosav that Jim does has the light for the LED in the wrong spot. it is however fixable. The hole just needs to be moved. Not shown in the photos were the armour plates for the belt pouches and the belt boxes. I was not happy with the quality of Jim’s and 3D printed them they were accurate with respect to looks but every time I sanded them, I got new pin holes. I will need to measure my buckles for you tomorrow as my kit is currently packed away for a weekend troop.

@Mal86 do you want me to post pictures tonight when I get home if the accessories that come with Jim’s kit?

@Lt. Dan I was speaking about Jim’s straps not being approvable, I didn’t have any knowledge of Mr. Paul’s and hoped that someone that did would chime in which you did. I think my wording may have been confusing because Paul was asking about Paul’s straps. Kind of like Who’s on first. LOL