DoggyDoc

I found that resin will lift off of the fibreglass at times, so I wouldn’t use it to build up the shin closure as that is a high strain point. ‘’Big tip”. When your shin is glued , don’t open it too much because it will crack right down the front. I open mine enough to slide my foot through with my toes pointed. ‘Jim’s hand guards (glove attachments) are good and I did use them For that shoulder buckle, you can sand it or try to add a thin layer of UV resin if there are defects, then sand it smooth.

I think I just put a whole bunch of JB weld into the seam and it held

Looks great. The tabs just have to give the shoulder bell a ledge to rest on, so they should be fine as you want the bells as close to the shoulder bridge as possible.

The alignment of the shoulders looks really good in the clamped photo. I can’t tell if there is a metal tab sticking out to support the shoulder bell. Is it under the strap or is it u see the shoulder bridge?

With the thighs, I actually shortened them twice as they also were digging into my hips. I needed to cut back this area. You can see how much I had to trim mine down and how I curved the part I circled above. The groove in the bottom of the shin looks right. As far as location. Just need to make sure it is deep enough to show up when it’s all painted and clear coated. Tough to tell depth from the photo.

I cut a couple inches off my thighs. You need to be able to walk comfortably when they are on and consider that you will need to be able to get your boots on once the thighs and shins are in place, so you almost need to be able to get into a sitting position.

I sanded mine with a belt sander to get rid of print lines and then sprayed them with Plastidip

Yes. Jim’s thermal detonator has the level 2 requirements

Definitely a size bump on the new print. Not sure what that screw is for. Could it be for the lens for the eyes?

Personally I think position 1 looks better. The shoulder bridges line up and the fit looks good. With the back piece, I used Velcro on the side tabs of the chest piece to connect to the back, so it pulls everything in at the bottom of the plates

This is exactly the same as what I used for the forearms and shins and it worked very well.

Good plan. Always best to tape things up and check for fit and positioning before cutting.

I didn’t need to cut my back piece as I am fairly big in the chest and belly area. You want the armour to fit well against your body though. my thoughts would be that if you don’t cut it, then can you pull the lower parts of the front and back pieces in to bring the chest in and down some? If this doesn’t work, then you may need to trim the shoulder bridge, but you may need to reshape it to meet the chest shoulder bridge properly. The shoulder strap does hide the seam, but not completely. These adjustments seem appropriate, you need to be able to bend some in the arms. And this area will disrupt the details of the forearms the least.

Very strange. have you tried wiping it down with isopropyl alcohol? That is what needs to be used for the non water soluble resins. Maybe just try in the tacky areas?

Just thinking about the UV resin curing issue. When I did it, I did very thin coats in small areas and cured as I went. Typically, it only took a few seconds to fully cure an area. ‘Not sure if this helps.

Wish it was sunny here. We have major snow and wind and it is freezing cold. for the thighs, you may just need to use the small up light. Maybe prop the thigh up and put the light pointing up inside of it?

I put the 3D printed ones on for accuracy but just no sling as I would not trust the printed clips to hold the weight as Chris mentioned above.

Sorry. Can’t help with this as I didn’t put a strap on mine.

Looks good. I haven’t tried the foam brush. I just used an inexpensive bristle brush that is about 1/2”. The water soluble resin washes up really easily.

Hi Barack. Here is a comprehensive list of where to get parts for the death trooper costume.

My wife bought me a 500 ml bottle from crazy bins for $1. That is what I have used and you barely go through any of it as it is applied very thin. I coated most of my armour and a 4 foot sono tube that I used for my blaster case and still have not gone through 1/4 of the bottle. Just look for something inexpensive and I would lean to one that is water washable so you don’t need to wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol. Here is what I use

With respect to the ribbing on the thighs, the CRL says that they should look like rubber as I believe the screen used ones were. They can however be rigid and just painted to look like rubber. I sprayed mine with Plastidip to get the effect. with respect to the smaller parts, they should look proportional to the armour but I don’t think it will make too much of a difference for the buckles. The ammo clips need to fit into the chest rig, which I believe has specific dimensions , so that would need to likely not be adjusted.

I would suspect that you would be best to scale it to the size of the wearer before printing if possible to reduce the risk of damaging printed pieces if trying to cut them down. This is just a suggestion however as I have not 3 D printed armour pieces.

I actually used UV resin to smooth out the outer pieces. It fills defects well and sands very easily. Careful with the fumes as they can be quite noxious. I use sirayatech resin as it has low fumes and does not smell bad. There are also water soluble resins that are a bit easier to clean up rather than the normal ones that need alcohol to clean. just apply thin layers then cure and slowly build it up. I used UV resin to make the raised details on my shins after I extended them. The white areas are UV resin.

Here is the little groove you need to add for this part for level 2 There is an indented groove approximately 1/2" (12mm) wide that runs along the inside bottom of both shins from the rear center to the beginning of the front boot arc. This detail is partially covered by the triangular closure flap.