Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Easiest thing is for me to go in and delete/ mod my text, then we can work off yours . any one reading along wont be confused by the two that way. 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DWM] Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Green = AdditionsRed = DeletePurple = Questions --------------------------------- Helmet Shape of the helmet matches the CRL image and information below: The helmet is based on the standard Stormtrooper helmet, but features larger cheek tubes which bridge into a truncated nose, which is larger and wider than the standard stormtrooper faceplate. The faceplate stops at the earcap, and flares outward at an up-swept angle when viewed from the front. The helmet features a wide skirt originating at the back of the earcap, and sweeps out and downward away from the dome and traps. The skirt widens to partially cover the top of the wearers backplate, and completely covers the shoulder straps. The skirt sweeps back at about level to the rest of the bottom of the helmet, and ends at a point. The skirt is enclosed at the bottom, all the way around, as found in other Stormtrooper helmets. Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are dark red. Backlit LEDs give an illuminated glow effect on the lenses. The body of the "ears" must be gray. The bars have three or four bumps and are gray. Ear bump section is outlined in black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and dark gray coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are medium blue or dark grey in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) must be black and is correct in size and shape in relation to the faceplate. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator must be red. Red LEDs within the aerator give the appearance that it is glowing. Tears (area beneath the corners of the eye lenses) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Tears are outlined in black. Tears have vertical black lines. Front traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Front traps are outlined in black. There are no vertical black lines on the front traps. Rear traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Rear traps are outlined in black. Rear traps have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps, not three. The third bump from the front is black. The tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. The fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. 1 Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Now we are set upon the Golden Path. Lets just hope it does not lead use where Leto II went. 1 Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Here's what I've found regarding the colors. Using a couple different websites I've been able to find the HEX color code and the closest match of color name. I haven't looked up Pantone colors yet, I'll do that next. These are the two sites that I used...https://pinetools.com/image-color-pickerhttps://www.color-blindness.com/color-name-hue/ A) Black Rock 2B313D ████ B ) Slate Gray 747d8f ████ C) River Bed 586063 ████ D) Regent Gray 717e84 ████ E) Oxford Blue 2b363c ████ F) Kashmir Blue 57697d ████ G) Montana 383c3d ████ H) Blue Bayou 62737b ████ I) Haiti 201d26 ████ J) Shuttle Grey 60676f ████ K) Shuttle Grey 63686c ████ L) Blue Bayou 677580 ████ M) Regent Gray 747d84 ████ N) Aluminium 848b93 ████ O) Light Slate Gray 808a94 ████ P) Black Pearl 20272f ████ Q) Charade 3a4245 ████ R) Zumthor d5dade ████ S) Red Berry 711e28 ████ T) Blue Charcoal 262A30 ████ U) Pale Sky 5a676f ████ V) Blue Charcoal 252a2e ████ W) Mine Shaft 35393c ████ X) Mischka a7aeb4 ████ Y) Licorice (Blue) 2d3743 ████ Z) Falu Red 641015 ████ AA) Bordeaux 4b1a1d ████ AB) Aluminium 81898c ████ AC) Regent Grey 7f888d ████ A) Woodsmoke 242827 ████ B ) Black Bean 181d19 ████ C) Midnight Mass 131514 ████ D) Black 000000 ████ E) Mulled Wine 4d4b50 ████ F) Grey Chateau 969ea1 ████ G) Nero 222222 ████ H) Midnight Mass 1E231F ████ I) Charade 404548 ████ J) River Bed 575f62 ████ K) Birch 3A3223 ████ L) Midnight Mass 1e201f ████ M) Gunmetal 2c3437 ████ N) Trout 484f59 ████ O) Bokara Grey 22211f ████ P) Cape Cod 4f5150 ████ Q) Woodsmoke 252726 ████ R) Bright Grey 545b63 ████ S) Shuttle Grey 59646a ████ T) Corduroy 3c3e3d ████ U) Monsoon 7a737a ████ V) Jumbo 8e8e8c ████ W) Shuttle Grey 5a656b ████ So yeah, Blackwatch is right, the colors are varying shades of grey-blue (and some blue-grey). 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DWM] Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 That's wild the amount of different colors! Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 On 6/30/2020 at 12:49 AM, IcyTrooper said: That's wild the amount of different colors! Expand It is but I'm sure that things can be consolidated by combining similar colors. For example, the base armor color (the standard grey-blue) is listed as shuttle grey, Bright Grey and Blue Bayou. The colors are close enough that they could just be called one thing... It could probably even just be "medium grey-blue", the boxes on the belt "light grey-blue", the dark parts of the armor "dark grey-blue" or something like that. One reason that there are so many different colors is because of the texture. The texture is a little blotchy, I suppose to look like texture or something, so even for one color there are different variations to give it that look. The jetpack texture is actually the best reference for colors because it's got a lot of big, open areas that don't have any of that blotchy look. How technical should the color names be? Is something like "medium grey-blue" good enough it would it need to be more of something like "shuttle grey" or "blue bayou"? Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 That said, here are some Pantone colors I found. I compared the various different colors for each part listed above and found the color that best matched them all. Base color: 4138 U ████ Dark armor: 5395 U ████ Belt: 431 U ████ Belt boxes: 2109 U ████ Stomach stripes: 546 U ████ Ear greeblies/cheek panels/forehead panels: 2164 U ████ Calf stripes: 546 U ████ (should actually be darker than stomach stripes) Top jetpack vent frame 441 U ████ Bottom jetpack vent frame: 5463 U ████ (looks too light, might need something else) Jetpack inner vent frames: 5463 U ████ Thruster stripe: 5315 U ████ Helmet teeth: Pantone doesn't have a match I'm not sure if there's a way to convert the Pantone colors to paint brand colors, like Montana Gold or something. Molotow does have some colors that are similar but not exact... https://artprimo.com/catalog/molotow_to_pantone_colors_guide.php Some of the basic colors I used... Jetpack greeblie: antique gold mixed with black and brown (acrylic) Jetpack circle vent outer ring: stormy grey (acrylic) Jetpack vent ring: metallic light gunmetal (acrylic) Jetpack back/tank/bottom: metallic gunmetal (spray paint, can't remember brand) Jetpack thrusters: Krylon stainless steel and fine silver glitter acrylic paint Jetpack side cones: metallic steel (spray paint, can't remember brand) The helmet teeth I don't have a color for, it was one I mixed myself. The cheek panels and helmet vent panels are the same, they're a color I mixed myself. Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Wow. Ok. that IS a lot of colors. Im digging the pantones, I learned with the mudtrooper you can go into paint shops and they will mix the pantone for you. Is it cheap? probably not. But im sure with all the myriad paints on the market that they overlap, even within brands like Rustoleum, R2x, Krylon, American Accents, ColorSpot etc. I find those enamels from Dollar General are not only cheap, but they are tough as heck. Did you have a use list of color brands that you used? I use a ton of acrylics, and quality acrylics can be sourced generally anywhere worldwide. When we set up the CRLs , we are going far beyond the front/ back image of days gone by. Now the CRLs have Gallerioes and alternate views, and Im not beyond taking photos of color samples painted on plastic, and posting that to the CRL gallery, so we have a good, clear representation of the intended color. Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 On 7/1/2020 at 2:47 AM, Blackwatch said: Wow. Ok. that IS a lot of colors. Im digging the pantones, I learned with the mudtrooper you can go into paint shops and they will mix the pantone for you. Is it cheap? probably not. But im sure with all the myriad paints on the market that they overlap, even within brands like Rustoleum, R2x, Krylon, American Accents, ColorSpot etc. I find those enamels from Dollar General are not only cheap, but they are tough as heck. Did you have a use list of color brands that you used? I use a ton of acrylics, and quality acrylics can be sourced generally anywhere worldwide. When we set up the CRLs , we are going far beyond the front/ back image of days gone by. Now the CRLs have Gallerioes and alternate views, and Im not beyond taking photos of color samples painted on plastic, and posting that to the CRL gallery, so we have a good, clear representation of the intended color. Expand Yeah, there are a lot of colors. Thankfully most of the colors are just different shades of the same so anyone making it could probably just get a few paint colors and then paint transparent colors over it to change the shades.That's what I did with mine, I essentially had three main colors of the gray-blue paint and then used transparent white, transparent grey and transparent black to alter the colors to fit the various shades. For the different colors on the armor, as far as I can tell, these are the various different places that get a different color... -Armor "overlay" (chest front, front thighs, etc.) and jetpack --> Medium grey-blue -Armor "underlay" (chest sides, thigh sides, etc.) --> Dark grey-blue -Shoulder straps (debatable, may or may not be a shade lighter than the overlay color) --> Medium grey-blue or shade ligther -Stomach stripes --> Dark grey with a hint of blue -Calf stripes --> Medium grey with a blue hue -Belt --> Light grey with a bluish tint -Belt boxes --> Very light grey-blue -Jetpack top vents --> Icy blue -Jetpack front vents --> Medium grey with blue tint -Jetpack bottom vents --> Very dark navy/very dark grey-blue -Jetback back and bottom --> Metallic gunmetal -Ear greeblies/helmet vents, etc. --> Pale sky blue/ pale grey-blue The gray-blue paints were from 004Connec, which I believe is also the brand, but I would never recommend using them. The paints work fine, the company itself is crap. All of them were navy-- "light navy", "medium navy", "dark navy". Montana Gold has a color that's very similar to the "medium navy" that I got from 004Connec, and I used that to paint the shoulder straps when I ran out of the 004Connec paint. I have to dig out the can to find the name of it. The belt is "mouse", which I think is also Montana Gold. I can't remember what I painted the belt boxes with. The transparent spray paints I need to dig out, I can't remember the brand but I bought them at a local art store as well as online. The other colors were fairly standard Krylon and Rust-oleum. As for the acrylic paints I think that almost all of them were DecoArt Americana from Michaels. There might be a couple Apple Barrel or whatever the brand is from Walmart, but I think that was only white and black. I have a ton of acrylic paints, around 150 or so, and I think that 90% of them are Americana. Like I mentioned, I don't have a specific color for the helmet teeth as it's a mixture of acrylics because I couldn't find a pre-made color that looked right to me. I might have actually used a pre-made color for the ear greeblies now that I think about it, I'll look through my stash and see if I can find any bottles that seem to match. Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Thanks for the breakdown. I just did some comparisons on 004connec and MG. MG is lacquer in acrylic resin base, wich I suspsected when I used it. Smells just like Tamiya spray paint and behaves the same. 004connec says it wont harm the atmospher but I could not find out what type of paint it is, whether it is an acrylic/ a/L or enamel, which I doubt. Acrylics are super easy to find all over the planet, so were not concerned with those. I discovered entirely by accident that MG paints are sold in Michaels. They are in a locked cage unlike the other spray paints they sell, and the associates had no idea what it was used for until I told them it was graphic paint. The look that comes over their faces when I tell then that says it all. its pricy but good stuff. Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DWM] Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 You guys seem to be the pros with the paint haha...we gonna knock that paint stuff out now or do you wanna just progress and we can decide on the paint at the end since it'll apply to most (if not all) of the parts. Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Alrighty, I dug out my paints over the weekend and got a lost of them. The only one that I'm not completely sure is on the Montana Gold paint that I used for the shoulder straps in place of the 004Connec paint that I ran out of. I think that it's "Denim", which looked fairly close to the base paint color after I had used some transparent paints on it, but I can't swear to it that Denim is the color I used for it. I also couldn't find the icy blue color I used for the jetpack vent frames on top, I'll keep looking for that. But anyway, here's the list of my paint plethora... Spray paints... 004Connec "Evolve" -Fully Navy (chest, thigh front/back, etc.) -Dark Navy (chest sides, thigh sides, etc.) -Medium Navy (calf stripes, stomach stripes, codpiece square) -Light Navy (small boxes on belt) Montana Black -Mouse (belt) Montana Gold -Denim (shoulder straps?) -Deep Sea (jetpack bottom vent frame) -Marble (jetpack thruster stripes) -Silver Chrome (knee and chest bolts, thermal detonator) Rust-oleum -Aluminum (jetpack thruster half-cones) -Flat Soft Iron (jetpack bottom, back, air intake) Krylon -Stainless Steel Finish (jetpack thrusters) Blair -Hi Gloss Varnish (jetpack thrusters) Belton Molotow Premium -Transparent Middle Grey Neutral** -Transparent White** -Transparent TOAST Signal Black** -Transparent Ultramarine Blue* -Transparent Shock Blue* **I used various coats of the transparent grey, white and black on all of the 004Connec navy paints to alter the color. The entire belt was also hit with various coats of these. *I didn't regularly use the transparent blues, I only kept them on hand and used them if I happened to make something too pale and needed to brighten it up again. Bottle acrylic paints... DecoArt Americana -Winter Blue (helmet vents/cheeks/back plates, ear greeblies) -Silver, black label metallic (inside aerators, aerator mesh, other things, I love this stuff) -Deep Midnight Blue (helmet teeth) -Black, gloss (helmet vents, chest vents, jetpack vents, stomach stripe dots, plate outlines) -Black, flat (helmet chin) -Gunmetal, black label metallic (armor chipping) Craft Smart -Bright Silver (also used inside aerators) DecoArt -Glamour Dust Ultra Fine Glitter, Silver (anything I wanted more shiny and reflective) Folkart -Clear Holographic Glitterific (thermal detonator, to make it more reflective) 1 Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 just getting back to this, Im working storing planes in Roswell NM, and with the heat cooking my brain and the blast furnace winds frying my eyeballs, Im just getting back online. Good work on the paints reference, as we go forward we can refernce back to the list here and include those at the same time. Ill post IcyTroopers post here so we are looking at the same thing: On 6/29/2020 at 1:36 AM, IcyTrooper said: Green = AdditionsRed = DeletePurple = Questions --------------------------------- Helmet Shape of the helmet matches the CRL image and information below: The helmet is based on the standard Stormtrooper helmet, but features larger cheek tubes which bridge into a truncated nose, which is larger and wider than the standard stormtrooper faceplate. The faceplate stops at the earcap, and flares outward at an up-swept angle when viewed from the front. The helmet features a wide skirt originating at the back of the earcap, and sweeps out and downward away from the dome and traps. The skirt widens to partially cover the top of the wearers backplate, and completely covers the shoulder straps. The skirt sweeps back at about level to the rest of the bottom of the helmet, and ends at a point. The skirt is enclosed at the bottom, all the way around, as found in other Stormtrooper helmets. Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are dark red. Backlit LEDs give an illuminated glow effect on the lenses. The body of the "ears" must be gray. The bars have three or four bumps and are gray. Ear bump section is outlined in black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and dark gray coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are medium blue or dark grey in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) must be black and is correct in size and shape in relation to the faceplate. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator must be red. Red LEDs within the aerator give the appearance that it is glowing. Tears (area beneath the corners of the eye lenses) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Tears are outlined in black. Tears have vertical black lines. Front traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Front traps are outlined in black. There are no vertical black lines on the front traps. Rear traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Rear traps are outlined in black. Rear traps have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps, not three. The third bump from the front is black. The tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. The fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Expand 2 Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 By "storing planes" do you mean storing alien spaceships? I was wrong about the helmet teeth, I was looking through my paints and realized that I did use a particular color to paint them. It's DecoArt Americana "Deep Midnight Blue". It's essentially a really deep, dark navy blue/blue-grey. Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 nah, those got shipped off the Wright Patt air force base in July '47. We have hundreds of United American and Frontier planes going ointo short term and long term storage. Some will be converted to freighters. Some will be converted to beer cans. 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DWM] Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 With all that being said, are we currently good on the helmet verbiage? Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 after review, I see a verbiage change I want to make: Green = Additions Red = Delete Purple = Questions --------------------------------- Helmet Shape of the helmet matches the CRL image and information below: The helmet is based on the standard Stormtrooper helmet, but features larger cheek tubes which bridge into a truncated nose, which is larger and wider than the standard stormtrooper faceplate. The faceplate stops at the earcap, and flares outward at an up-swept angle when viewed from the front. The helmet features a wide skirt originating at the back of the earcap, and sweeps out and downward away from the dome and traps. The skirt widens to partially cover the top of the wearers backplate, and completely covers the shoulder straps. The skirt sweeps back at about level to the rest of the bottom of the helmet, and ends at a point. The skirt is enclosed at the bottom, all the way around, as found in other Stormtrooper helmets. Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are color is dark red. Backlit LEDs give an illuminated glow effect on the lenses. The body of the "ears" must be gray. The bars have three or four bumps and are gray. Ear bump section is outlined in black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and dark gray coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are medium blue or dark grey in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) must be black and is correct in size and shape in relation to the faceplate. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator must be red. Red LEDs within the aerator give the appearance that it is glowing. Tears (area beneath the corners of the eye lenses) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Tears are outlined in black. Tears have vertical black lines. Front traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Front traps are outlined in black. There are no vertical black lines on the front traps. Rear traps (trapezoids on the dome of the helmet) may be hand painted or decals and must be gray. Rear traps are outlined in black. Rear traps have vertical black lines. OPTIONAL Level Two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Ear bars have four bumps, not three. The third bump from the front is black. The tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. The fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Can we get feedback/ concurrence on the changes I have proposed above? 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[CMD-DCA] Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 just the color bit? yea that works Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DWM] Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 Yeah the color change is fine. I'll update the master thread bit showing the finalized helmet section and we can move to the next section. Here is my comment/post within this thread where the final versions lay: Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DWM] Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 I have added the helmet to the finalized list, now time for the Neckseal. Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 So here's my list of notes that I've been working on. These are just short-form notes, meant to be quick and give some ideas. I wrote a section for the helmet as well before I realized it was done here, but I'll post it anyway, just 'cause I have it. I was asked to post only sections of it so I'll do that and put the full list in a spoiler tag below. Regarding the four main colors of the armor, to make it easier I am labeling them as “light gray-blue”, “medium gray-blue”, “full gray-blue” and “dark gray-blue”, with light gray-blue being the lightest shade, full gray-blue being the full, true shade, medium gray-blue being something between light and full, and dark gray-blue being the darkest shade of gray-blue. There are some variations to these shades but these are the four primary for (hopefully) easier identification. Scale: Light gray-blue → medium gray-blue → full gray-blue → dark gray-blue. HELMET Helmet is medium gray-blue in color. Back of helmet swoops out in half-hexagonal shape. Ears come out to a point at the sides of the helmet. Trapezoids on dome of helmet and tears beneath the eyes are one or two shades lighter than the base medium gray-blue. Each have a thick black outline around them. → Level 2: All trapezoids and tears are raised (like Rogue One stormtrooper helmets). Rear trapezoids have five vertical black lines (“vents”), tears also have five black lines → Level 2: Trapezoid and tear lines are cut in, giving them depth (like Rogue One stormtrooper helmets). They are still painted black. Dark red flat lenses behind the helmet eyes. → Level 2: Flat dark red mirrored lenses. Black or dark gray rubber brow strip above eyes, bottom edges of front trapezoids go under strip. Eleven black C-shaped tube stripes angled outward at the back end. Can either be a flat decal or each stripe can be etched in. Medium navy blue teeth. Black mesh behind teeth. Rectangular ear greeblies that are one or two shades lighter than the base medium gray-blue. Ear greeblies are outlined with a thick black line. Ear greblies have three rectangular pips, one black inset rectangle, and one last pip behind it. Flat black chin greeblie. Black Hovi aerator tips with mesh on front. The interior of the aerators as well as the mesh are painted bright red. → Level 2: Red LED lights inside the aerator tips. Interior of the aerators are painted bright silver to reflect the light, the mesh is also painted a bright, reflective silver. All surfaces of the helmet should be glossy except for the chin greeblie (which is flat black). NECK SEAL Black with horizontal ribs and is fitted to the wearer. It extends from the base of the neck to the top to conceal the entire neck. (Stormtrooper style.) Or... Black in color with vertical ribbing. (Phase one clone trooper style.) No logos or labels are visible. The in-game model just has flat blackness around the neck (and most of the body "undersuit") so there isn't really a reference for it on the model. But seeing as the Phase Zeroes are essentially a mish-mash of clone trooper and stormtroper armor that either the clone trooper or the stormtrooper neck seal would probably be okay. I opted for the stormtrooper version for my armor, I like the look of it better. Reveal hidden contents HELMET Helmet is medium gray-blue in color. Back of helmet swoops out in half-hexagonal shape. Ears come out to a point at the sides of the helmet. Trapezoids on dome of helmet and tears beneath the eyes are one or two shades lighter than the base medium gray-blue. Each have a thick black outline around them. → Level 2: All trapezoids and tears are raised (like Rogue One stormtrooper helmets). Rear trapezoids have five vertical black lines (“vents”), tears also have five black lines → Level 2: Trapezoid and tear lines are cut in, giving them depth (like Rogue One stormtrooper helmets). They are still painted black. Dark red flat lenses behind the helmet eyes. → Level 2: Flat dark red mirrored lenses. Black or dark gray rubber brow strip above eyes, bottom edges of front trapezoids go under strip. Eleven black C-shaped tube stripes angled outward at the back end. Can either be a flat decal or each stripe can be etched in. Medium navy blue teeth. Black mesh behind teeth. Rectangular ear greeblies that are one or two shades lighter than the base medium gray-blue. Ear greeblies are outlined with a thick black line. Ear greblies have three rectangular pips, one black inset rectangle, and one last pip behind it. Flat black chin greeblie. Black Hovi aerator tips with mesh on front. The interior of the aerators as well as the mesh are painted bright red. → Level 2: Red LED lights inside the aerator tips. Interior of the aerators are painted bright silver to reflect the light, the mesh is also painted a bright, reflective silver. All surfaces of the helmet should be glossy except for the chin greeblie (which is flat black). CHEST ARMOR The chest armor is very similar to the standard OT stormtrooper chest armor. The armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. Two black pill-shaped slots on the right breast. There is a beveled edge from near the shoulders and which curves down to the side of the chest giving the appearance of armor layered beneath the medium gray-blue armor. → Level 2: Chest armor is made of two layers of armor, a bottom layer and a top layer, with the top layer painted medium gray-blue and the bottom layer painted gloss dark gray-blue. This inset armor section is painted gloss dark gray-blue. Two cone-shaped bolts attached to the upper chest. The bolts are roughly two inches at the bottom and taper in toward the top, and stop at a flat end. Cone-shaped indented interior that ends in a flat surface. Bolts are painted metallic silver to look like metal. The interior flat surface is painted bright red. → Level 2: The interior is hollow and red LED lights are affixed within. Chestplate overlaps the abdominal plate. BACK ARMOR The back armor is very similar in appearance to the OT stormtrooper armor. → Level 2: Back plate features a raised “OII” design. The back armor overlays the upper edge of the kidney armor. The back armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. There is a beveled edge from near the shoulders and which curves down to the side of the back giving the appearance of armor layered beneath the medium gray-blue armor. → Level 2: Back armor is made of two layers of armor, a bottom layer and a top layer, with the top layer painted gloss medium gray-blue and the bottom layer painted gloss dark gray-blue. This inset armor section is painted gloss dark gray-blue. SHOULDER STRAPS Stormtrooper style shoulder straps without front or rear tabs. → Level 2: No visible rivets are allowed. A total of twelve ribs. The shoulder straps are painted gloss medium gray-blue. → Level 2: The shoulder straps are painted one to two shades lighter than the base medium gray-blue. ABDOMINAL PLATE The abdominal armor is very similar in appearance to the phase one clone trooper abdominal armor. The armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. Two inset lines divine the armor into segments. Six indented circles per side within the inset lines, for a total of twelve circles total. Indented circles are painted black. The inset lines are painted medium gray. Abdomen armor wraps around the wearer's body and is sealed at the sides. KIDNEY ARMOR The kidney armor is very similar in appearance to the OT stormtrooper armor. This armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. BELT Hard glossy gray belt front. Six boxes molded onto the belt are painted glossy light gray-blue. Any rivets used are covered by accurate stormtrooper-style belt rivet covers. → Level 2: Any rivets used are hidden but there are no rivet covers. Ammo boxes cover the two outermost belt boxes (making only four of the belt boxes visible). The ammo boxes are painted the same gloss gray as the belt. Etched C-shaped portion on the upper front of each box, below this are two pill-shaped indents that are painted black. Cloth belt that is 2.75 inches to 3.75 inches wide. The color of the cloth belt is gray and should be as close to the color of the hard belt as possible. → Level 2: Cloth belt is the same width as the hard belt. CODPIECE The codpiece is similar in shape to the phase one clone trooper armor. The codpiece is painted gloss medium gray-blue. There is a rectangle with inset beveled edges from the top edge of the codpiece (which is hidden under the belt) to about three-fourths down the front of the piece. The rectangle is painted gloss porpoise gray or full gray-blue. -Level 2: The rectangle is painted a color one or two shades darker than the full gray-blue color. Codpiece and posterior armor connect at the hips. POSTERIOR ARMOR The posterior armor is very similar to the phase one clone trooper armor. The posterior armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. Posterior and codpiece armor connect at the hips. SHOULDER BELLS Shoulder armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. One on each shoulder, either one is identical. Shoulder armor “floats” roughly two to three inches off the shoulder at the lower end. Shoulders have black elastic strap that wraps around the bicep. BICEP ARMOR Biceps are fully closed. Outer shell of the bicep overlays the inner shell. The outer shell and cover strips are painted gloss medium gray-blue. The inner shell is painted gloss dark medium gray-blue. FOREARM ARMOR Forearms are fully closed. Outer shell of the forearm armor overlays the inner shell. There are twelve rectangular indented and beveled notches along the outside edge of the forearms. The outer shell and cover strips are painted gloss medium gray-blue. The inner shell is painted gloss dark gray-blue. HAND ARMOR Realistic phase one clone trooper style hand plates. Gloss medium gray-blue in color. Hand plates have a top curving ridge that come to a point over the index or middle finger just past the main knuckle of the hand. GLOVES Black gloves made of cloth, nylon, leather or rubber. Gloves rise above the wrists and over any exposed skin. Gloves to not show any labels or logos when the armor is worn. THIGH ARMOR The thigh armor is similar in appearance to the phase one phase one clone trooper armor. Armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. The front of the thigh armor has a flat triangular area above the knee. From the top of the triangle, a ridge line travels up the front of the thigh to the top edge Back of armor has an indentation with a rounded top. The outer side of the armor has a recessed area with a beveled edge, making it appear as though the armor is made of two separate layers. The recessed area starts at the top of the thigh and tapers in at the bottom. The recessed area is painted gloss dark gray-blue. The inner thigh side of the armor has a recessed area with a beveled edge, making it appear as though the armor is made of two separate pieces. The recessed portion starts wide at the top of the armor and then tapers in, ending around three inches above the bottom edge of the thigh armor in a clean, straight line. This recessed area is painted gloss ark gray-blue. Armor is seamless. CALF ARMOR The calf armor is similar to the OT stormtrooper armor but they have no knee plates. The left calf armor is a mirrored copy of the right (or vice-versa). The top edges of the calf armor terminate in a straight edged just below the wearer's knees. The armor is painted gloss medium gray-blue. The front and back cover strips are painted gloss full gray-blue. SHOES Chelsea style boots with a smooth texture. Strip up the toe and top foot of the boot. Gray rubber soles. -Level 2: Bottom of soles have a crinkle texture. Boots are gloss medium gray-blue. Armor over the top of the shoes. Armor begins about a third way up the front of the foot, curves around the sides and ends behind the ankle. Armor does not wrap around the back of the foot. Two black pill-shaped slits at the front end of the armor. Armor is attached in a way that is not easily visible. JUMP PACK Jump pack is gloss medium gray-blue. Two rectangular recessed panels near the top (one one each side of the center tank). Two smaller rectangular panels near the center (one on each side of the center tank). These panels are painted gunmetal gray. Center tank with three recessed panels-- one at the top, one in the center, and one at the bottom. The bottom and top recessed tank panels of a raised panel within the center of them. → Level 2: The bottom corners of the top and bottom recessed panels have two tiny cylinder greeblies or rivets, one in either of the lower corners. The middle recessed panel of the center tank has a rectangularfac greeblie in the center of it. The greeblie features a series of verticle columns with a ridge at the top and bottom of the greeblie. This greeblie is painted a dark antique gold. The entire center tank is painted gunmetal gray. → Level 2: The center tank has a rough and bumpy texture in conjunction with the gunmetal gray paint. This texture is only on the center tank. Top of the center tank has a cut open trapezoid “air intake” with the interior painted black. → Level 2: The trapezoid is “closed” with a mesh or grill that is painted the same black as the interior. Two jet fuel units at either lower side of the jump pack, painted gloss medium gray-blue, the top of which are half-cones painted silver or aluminum. One jet thruster on the bottom of each of the two jet fuel units. The thrusters are painted aluminum or stainless steel and have thick white smoke stripe around the middle of them. → Level 2: The interior of the thrusters are painted black to simulate depth. Two trapezoidagon wings protruding from either side at the top of the jump pack. The wings are mirrored images of each other. -The top, front and bottom faces of the wings have vents with five recessed frame slots which are black in color. The vent frames and slats are painted a very dark gray-blue. -The top vent frame is outlined in snow white or frost white. -The front vent frame is not outlined (the standard medium gray-blue is seen around the frame). -The bottom vent frame is outlined in dark gray. -The outer side of the wings have an recessed circle that is painted dark gray. Within this circle is a raised ring with four to five horizontal vent slats. The ring and vent slats are painted a dark silver or a light gunmetal gray. Between each vent is a recessed black space. -The back of the wings have no vents are are smooth, the surface of which is painted the same gunmetal gray as the back, bottom and center tank. Bottom of the jump pack is painted gunmetal gray. The back of the jump pack is painted gunmetal gray. The top of the jump pack features a gunmetal gray stripe that is the same width as the center tank. Level 3: jump pack is fully functional, features thrusters that can be rotated to alter direction, and which allows the wearer to leap through the air to distances of about twenty meters. (Warning: only use if your legs have been enhanced with cybernetics, use of jump packs without cybernetic enhancements may result in legs being broken upon landing.) KNEE BOLTS Four cone-shaped bolts are roughly two inches wide at the bottom and taper outward. They end in a flat surface. Indented cone-shaped interior with flat bottom. The outside and inside of the bolts are metallic silver to look like metal. The flat bottom of the interior is painted bright red. → Level 2: The bottom is open and red LED lights are affixed within. There are two bolts to the sides of each knee. The bolts attach in a hidden fashion (example: black webbing) between the thigh armor and calf armor, but are not directly attached to either armor piece. The bolts sit between the armor pieces. THERMAL DETONATOR Attaches to the back center of the cloth belt. Smooth gloss dark gray/storm gray cylinder. Silver or white center control panel and end caps. Attached via metal clips on back of canister. → Level 2: Clips are attached to canister with black screws. Clips are positioned partially under the end caps. NECK SEAL Black with horizontal ribs and is fitted to the wearer. It extends from the base of the neck to the top to conceal the entire neck. (Stormtrooper style.) Or... Black in color with vertical ribbing. (Phase one clone trooper style.) No logos or labels are visible. UNDER SUIT Made of a black non-textured material, it is of either a one-piece or two-piece construction, and has no visible zippers or logos. LEVEL 3 – CYBERNETIC ENHANCEMENTS Cybernetic enhancements of the same technology used to transform Darth Vader, that enhances the wearer's physical attributes. The wearer my opt to have up to and surpassing 70% of their body modified with these augmentations, turning them into a cyborg. The cybernetics can include, but are no limited to, mechanical hands, arms, legs and feet, artificial heart, synthetic poison-proof lungs, ocular implants, computerized brain and a synthetic respiratory system. Please consult your local Imperial cybernetic-specialized surgeon before proceeding with such alterations. WEAPONS ARC caster E-11 blaster rifle SE-14r light repeating blaster DC-17 hand blaster 1 Link to comment
Blackwatch[CMD-DCA] Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 Ive taken three different neckseals and posted them here for review, and discussion: Concept TK CRL Clone CRL TK CRL Neck Seal The neck seal may be ribbed, smooth or a balaclava. Color may be Gray, to match under armor, or Black. Neck Seal Neck seal is black in color with vertical ribbing or being smooth in appearance. No logos or labels are visible. If the seal is not incorporated as part of the undersuit, a balaclava or other similar covering is acceptable. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. With these as established CRL text versions we can pick one, or pick one as L1 and another as L2. Link to comment
Blue Hatter Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 The concept stormtrooper neck seal probably wouldn't work for the P0 but I don't think it would matter much if it was clone trooper or OT stormtrooper version. The game model doesn't have anything, it's just a solid black texture, and like I mentioned, the P0 armor is pretty much just a mixture of phase one clone trooper and OT stormtrooper armor thrown together. Either one would look okay and would probably make sense. But personally, I prefer the stormtrooper neck seal. I dig the ribbing. Link to comment
RAIDER[CMD-DCA] Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 On 8/1/2020 at 8:36 PM, Blackwatch said: Ive taken three different neckseals and posted them here for review, and discussion: Concept TK CRL Clone CRL TK CRL Neck Seal The neck seal may be ribbed, smooth or a balaclava. Color may be Gray, to match under armor, or Black. Neck Seal Neck seal is black in color with vertical ribbing or being smooth in appearance. No logos or labels are visible. If the seal is not incorporated as part of the undersuit, a balaclava or other similar covering is acceptable. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. With these as established CRL text versions we can pick one, or pick one as L1 and another as L2. Expand Its not seen right? Should it just be optional or will neck show without something? Based in timeline...TK would be more in line yes? 1 Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now