RAIDER[COTG] Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 @CrookKnight I told u i was gonna get a pair of those bolts to test lol. They work perfectly...are flat...and they are aluminum and should be more than durable. Also attached pic of specific ones I purchased. 1 Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted May 22, 2020 Author Share Posted May 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Raider said: @CrookKnight I told u i was gonna get a pair of those bolts to test lol. They work perfectly...are flat...and they are aluminum and should be more than durable. Also attached pic of specific ones I purchased. Looks great @Raider. I ordered some yesterday and they should be here tomorrow. I will send pics. 3 Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 I drilled the holes in the sides of the visor and helmet and then attached the accurate bolts. I started with a small pilot hole. Then I drilled a much larger hole that allowed for the bolt plus the square piece under the bolt to fit. I then tested the visor to the helmet and it could not open far enough, so I had to trim more off the left and right top of the visor to allow it to open close to 90 degrees. Once that was complete on both sides, I attached the visor to the helmet as a test fit and it did very well. Right side: Left side: Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 Next I added the silver reflective material for the lenses. I cut it down a little and then added the glue. I needed something to weigh it down, but still allowed it to expand while the E6000 to expand while it dried. So I went very scientific and used towels to weight it down. haha. Here are the towels weighing it down. Once it dried, i cut off the excess: Here is a picture from the front: Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 Now that the faceplate is done, I decided to add the faceplate to the visor and then attach everything to the helmet. Here is a test look, before I attached everything: Before I glued the faceplate, I tested the visor to make sure it did the 90 degrees (or close to). I then glued the left and right sides of the faceplate to the visor. I used high powered earth magnets and vice grips to hold it in place until it dries. Now I let it dry: My cat is getting bored...lol. Once I add the decals and interior harness for my head....I can get started on the rest of the armor which is the easy stuff...haha. Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 Trying to speed this up...Going to work on this while I am working on commission. Today I worked on the back and the tank. I have trimmed both and have some questions. Does the tank have to site perfectly flush with the back piece. In other words. can you see a gap between them? I have been trying to trim the tank to the contour of the back piece, but I cannot get it exact. Also, how far from the opening on the back piece do I mount the tank? Pictures of back piece trimmed: All pieces will be painted later. I still need to trim the slots on the sides for the fabric that will connect to the chest plate. tank trimming: I rounded the top a little to fit the contour of the back piece. Is this the right distance from the open portion of the back piece to the top of the tank. From the CRL it looks pretty close. Side shots of tank on back piece. Once i confirm this is correct, I will attach the tank to the back piece. From what I can tell (from other threads) is I bend a piece of plastic 90 degree and attach it to the back piece. Then I use (1) rivet to attach it to the tank through the resin detail piece. Is this correct? Thank you for your input. 2 Link to comment
tgreen0626 Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 That looks good. Walt did a video on the tank trimming and notching. I think I have some pics on my imgur of my back and tank, if not I will take some. I am slowly trimming it to have no gaps between. you are also correct on the single river and angled plastic or whatever material you use for the top half. Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 On 6/12/2020 at 7:49 PM, tgreen0626 said: That looks good. Walt did a video on the tank trimming and notching. I think I have some pics on my imgur of my back and tank, if not I will take some. I am slowly trimming it to have no gaps between. you are also correct on the single river and angled plastic or whatever material you use for the top half. Do you know where I can find Walt’s Video? Link to comment
tgreen0626 Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 I will send them to you on messenger bro. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 @CrookKnight the back tank does not have to be perfectly flush (esp at the bottom). Get it as close as u can. Ive attached an original TB so u can see how off they were in fact on screen. That said, the close u can get it the better looking it will be. Additionally, the bottom rivet will help in pulling the tank to the back. 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 and yes the angled plastic will give the tank a contact/resting point at the top. u can glue it to the back tank...in my kit i actually cut a slit and put the angled plastic through the back plate to the interior...then riveted it as well so it wont ever pop off Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 On 6/14/2020 at 3:43 PM, Raider said: and yes the angled plastic will give the tank a contact/resting point at the top. u can glue it to the back tank...in my kit i actually cut a slit and put the angled plastic through the back plate to the interior...then riveted it as well so it wont ever pop off Sounds good. Hopefully after this, I can start moving faster. I am going to slow and this is going to take me forever. I went ahead and heated a piece of ABS and made the L-Bracket. I attached it with E-600 and used high powered magnets to hold it in place until the glue dried. Once the glue dried i removed the magnets and did a test fit. Based on the fit. I glued the tank to the L Bracket and placed the top greeblie on the tank to check fit. I will rivet the top greeblie in place and then add the rivet to the bottom... 2 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Yes indeed that looks pretty good to me! Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 16 hours ago, Raider said: Yes indeed that looks pretty good to me! Thank you. Glad to be done with what I consider to be the hardest parts. Now I am going to start with the chest and work my way down. Yee haw. Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 CHEST I trimmed the chest armor, sanded the edges, cut in the slots for the straps on the sides and filed down the slots. Should be done. Link to comment
Rowen[TX] Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 On 6/14/2020 at 1:05 PM, tgreen0626 said: I will send them to you on messenger bro. I have been following this thread, and I caught a little of Walt’s builds, but I got lost as to where specific biker scout parts were within his lectures (I didn’t catch the back piece build, and I saw the boot holster one, but lost it in all the other info). Would you be willing to share these links for those of us using this particular thread as a guideline for our own builds? TYVM. Link to comment
Rowen[TX] Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 On 6/16/2020 at 12:53 PM, CrookKnight said: Sounds good. Hopefully after this, I can start moving faster. I am going to slow and this is going to take me forever. I went ahead and heated a piece of ABS and made the L-Bracket. I attached it with E-600 and used high powered magnets to hold it in place until the glue dried. Once the glue dried i removed the magnets and did a test fit. Based on the fit. I glued the tank to the L Bracket and placed the top greeblie on the tank to check fit. I will rivet the top greeblie in place and then add the rivet to the bottom... Is there any way you could show a photo of the river on the tank topper? Also, did you end up putting a red pinstripe or a black one (for the TX) on that topper? Thank you for sharing your progress photos. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 10 minutes ago, Rowen said: Is there any way you could show a photo of the river on the tank topper? Also, did you end up putting a red pinstripe or a black one (for the TX) on that topper? Thank you for sharing your progress photos. red tank topper stripe is not permitted on shadow scout...thats a standard biker scout thing 1 Link to comment
tgreen0626 Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 46 minutes ago, Rowen said: I have been following this thread, and I caught a little of Walt’s builds, but I got lost as to where specific biker scout parts were within his lectures (I didn’t catch the back piece build, and I saw the boot holster one, but lost it in all the other info). Would you be willing to share these links for those of us using this particular thread as a guideline for our own builds? TYVM. @Rowen I will see if I can get the videos grouped and shared here. I have a folder I saved all my Scout videos in from Walt's Build processes. Thanks Tom 1 Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 I will post the top of the tank. I have finished it...just not posted it...as well as my helmet. Just got my replacement biceps in, so ready to finish the armor portion of the build. 1 Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Tank and chest are done and painted. (forgot picture of top of tank). Will post with next pictures. Next will be shoulder bells, biceps and forearms. 3 Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Wow. I cannot believe it has been a year since I posted. Anyway, I have done more work on it and am getting close. Will post pictures soon. I have most of the soft goods, other than the flightsuit and gloves. I found gloves at Wampawear, but cannot tell if the one they have listed as the Biker Scout Racing Suite meets 501st minimum requirements. Is there another source that also includes the suede pieces? It appears suede pieces will need to be added per the link below. Below is the link to the suit. https://wampawear.com/product/biker-scout-racing-suit/ 501st pictures of suede areas. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_scout_trooper-suitdetail Thank you for your assistance. 2 Link to comment
tgreen0626 Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 On 10/13/2021 at 4:45 PM, CrookKnight said: Wow. I cannot believe it has been a year since I posted. Anyway, I have done more work on it and am getting close. Will post pictures soon. I have most of the soft goods, other than the flightsuit and gloves. I found gloves at Wampawear, but cannot tell if the one they have listed as the Biker Scout Racing Suite meets 501st minimum requirements. Is there another source that also includes the suede pieces? It appears suede pieces will need to be added per the link below. Below is the link to the suit. https://wampawear.com/product/biker-scout-racing-suit/ 501st pictures of suede areas. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_scout_trooper-suitdetail Thank you for your assistance. I am making my own suit, but it looks like the WW suit does not have any suede on it. The Biker TB suit is identical to the TX Scout suit from what I have seen so far. Thanks Tom Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 @CrookKnight yea u will need the suede i believe christian cucblack makes one i know chefs creations does as well 1 Link to comment
CrookKnight[501st] Posted April 17, 2022 Author Share Posted April 17, 2022 I am done and will be posting final pics soon…forgot to post all the build pics… 1 Link to comment
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