SirCalcium IAT WIP

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Hello all. Quick intro, I am DZ19195 from the Imperial Scottish Garrison, and I bought an incomplete Imperial Army Trooper from a friend who decided not to finish the costume, looking to add a TX to my TKID.

What I got.

A custom made flight suit, patches need to be raised higher up the sleeve

     


The gloves, belt, H strap, pouches, E11 holster and hat

           

I also got an E11

 


I did get a pair of boots with the costume too, however since they're too small for my large feet they're a no. It's also worth checking if these types of boots would pass basic clearance too (I was told they are X-Wing boots)




Aside from better boots what I'd like to add to this costume is the Helmet as depicted in version 1, and the TK Ammo belt.

[24076]

Looks good so far! Out of curiosity what material is your flight suit made from? I am looking to also go the custom route but not sure what fabric to use. 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

On 4/18/2022 at 8:20 PM, 24076 said:

Looks good so far! Out of curiosity what material is your flight suit made from? I am looking to also go the custom route but not sure what fabric to use. 

Flight suit is made from Cotton Drill, and was made by a fellow ISG member.
Might as well ask some questions of my own.

1st. I have a pair of Jackboots I bought second hand, with some trimming (I've used some pens to mark were 20 and 23cms are) could they pass clearance?



2nd. I plan to get a TK Ammo belt for this costume. I am aware the CRL's Lvl 2 clearance asks for an ROTJ belt with the ANH drop boxes, but for Lvl 1 clearance is there any limitations, i.e. can I use either an ANH or an ROTJ belt?

3rd. How far up the sleeve should the patches be?

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

On 4/20/2022 at 12:08 PM, SirCalcium said:

Flight suit is made from Cotton Drill, and was made by a fellow ISG member.
Might as well ask some questions of my own.

1st. I have a pair of Jackboots I bought second hand, with some trimming (I've used some pens to mark were 20 and 23cms are) could they pass clearance?



2nd. I plan to get a TK Ammo belt for this costume. I am aware the CRL's Lvl 2 clearance asks for an ROTJ belt with the ANH drop boxes, but for Lvl 1 clearance is there any limitations, i.e. can I use either an ANH or an ROTJ belt?

3rd. How far up the sleeve should the patches be?

Great start! I'll see if I can answer some of these questions:

1st - I'll defer this to @Hoda @Blackwatch @Kessel and their thoughts on that, but I can't see why they wouldn't be approved by shortening them.

2nd - You can use either the ROTJ/ANH belt for L1.

3rd - I'd say probably 1.5" (38.1 mm) or around that from the top stitch of shoulder to the top of the patch, roughly. Take a look here and approximate it to look similar and you'll be set! 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Made some small steps on this.
I trimmed down the boots so they're the right height, and whilst level 2 clearance asks for them to be Olive Green I personally like the black worn look, but opinions may change.

     

I spoke with a friend and fellow ISG member about printing the Version 1 helmet, and he agreed to do it, just waiting to get the final result.

I've spoken with some TK suppliers local to the UK about getting a TK ammo belt, just waiting for replies

[Hoda[CMD-DCA]]

Yes!! Another IAT build!

Looks like you are well on your way for the boots. 

For the patch location - in case you haven't fixed the positioning yet, I liked this verbiage from the Imperial Army Engineer (which, maybe we should include the same w the IAT and Lt Sunber CRLs)

Quote

 

Each shoulder has an Imperial Army patch that sits 3" to 4" (75-100mm) inches below the shoulder seam.

 

 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Ok 2 things I've done (that I can show), first is the patches.

The first one is at 1 inch below the shoulder seam, and the second is 3 inches below the seam

Second thing is I tried on the modified boots

 

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

Hello! 

I have to apologize, I have pretty much been on the road since you posted this and today is the first chance Ive had to get into the forums.  

Im happy enough with the boots for basic approval, and the patch does sit lower down on the arm, however, the Engineer patch is intended to have a rocker stitched on above it for the Sapper version, so thats why we wrote it for laying further down the arm.  Mine are lower on my arm as well. 

 

Which file will your garrison mate be using for printing the helmet? i have a few that were made locally but the mold died, it tore.  So I cant get anymore, but I dont have a file that I like.  Id love to know with one you will be printing. 

The only other thing I can add is that you are allowed to add three stitches on the back of the gloves. I used the runoff thread from a serger to make the stitchs, which were glued on, and then i painted the gloves. 

Is there any other information you can give us regarding the suit , color, fabric, swatch, etc?   Im really looking forward to seeing this completed !

https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Tx_IAT_gloves.jpg

[SirCalcium[TX]]

I got the finished helmet and telemetry unit

    

And with that will begin the never-ending process of filling, sanding, priming, filling, sanding priming. I have worked on 3D prints and Clone armour, so nothing too difficult.
Afterwards it just needs padding and the chin strap.

As for the patches, unless told otherwise I'll go with the 3 inches down the sleeve.

Whilst at a troop with the head armourer of my garrison he mentioned that the E11 in the CRL is an ANH one, but the one I have is an ESB. Is there a specific model of E11 that IATs can use?

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

Thanks for posting!

The CRL is always right. Even when its wrong, its always right, because its what the GML will go by to approve.  Specialist approvals are done by the Detachment, and they will follow all blue highlighted text in a CRL.  I had to make changes to my own IAT to get Specialist approval, and I wrote the thing .

I am using 3d print resin after a round of heavy sanding. its saving me a ton of time.  I still have to fill with heavy filler primer, but it saves hours of sanding time without actually removing material. 

 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Been a while since I last posted.
To fill the gaps on the helmet I've been using a new technique I heard that involves diluting glazing/knifing putty with acetone, making it into a thin slurry that can be painted onto the printed part. The acetone will evaporate within minutes and the dried putty can be sanded.



After a first round of just applying putty straight from the tube



A coat of the acetone diluted putty



A coat of primer



After sanding
At this point I'll skip the results of additional layers of putty, priming and sanding

   

Still have some layer lines to hide along with finishing the telemetry unit, but that can be done with some spray filler putty, and higher grit sand paper. I'm not intending to get all the inside smooth since it'll be covered with the helmet padding I intend to use.

As for the patches, I've sewn them back onto the flight suit, and I'm hopeful they are at the right location on the sleeves

   

Other things that need done are detailing the gloves, acquiring goggles and a chin cup, and whilst it's not needed for Lvl 1 clearance I'm thinking about adding the screw caps to add some detail to the helmet. 

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

The scew caps are an amazon item, they are just covers that would cover like furniture assembly screws. I roughened them up with sanpaper and put them on with a rivet. 

Your suit is custom, could you find out which fabric it was, or get a pic of the bolt used?  We are having a discssion in another WIP about the bolts of fabric used. 

I have sprayed the inside of my other custom cast helmets with truck bed lining to get rid of the awful appearance. 

Which putty are you thinning with acetone? I have used a lot of model buiding putty thinned down but it really cracks badly when I apply it.  I have been using UV cure resin to do some seam filling and layer line removal. 

 

Which helmet file are you printing? I found one for a General Veers helmet, but Im always looking for more of these.

We got five good casts off the custom mold we had made, before the mold split and died.  The guy who cast mine stood on a raw casting to show me how strong they are, combination of fiberglass and dragonskin resin. 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Quote

On 5/26/2022 at 3:05 PM, Blackwatch said:

Your suit is custom, could you find out which fabric it was, or get a pic of the bolt used?  We are having a discssion in another WIP about the bolts of fabric used. 

Which putty are you thinning with acetone? I have used a lot of model buiding putty thinned down but it really cracks badly when I apply it.  I have been using UV cure resin to do some seam filling and layer line removal. 

Which helmet file are you printing? I found one for a General Veers helmet, but Im always looking for more of these.

To answer the questions.
1. I spoke to the suits creator and he told me it's made of Cotton Drill, same as the ICAT and Mudtroopers.
2. Which Bolt, I don't know I'm afraid.
3. I tried 2 putties that as far as I'm aware are UK exclusive. The first is Holts Cataloy Knifing Putty which is cheap but hard to get out the tube. The second (which is much better) is Isopon Knifing Putty, and based on it's performance and on video's I've seen, this stuff is basically bondo glazing and spot putty (premixed version)
4. I still don't know what files were used to print the helmet I'm afraid.

After some rounds acetone/putty solution, my spray putty of choice, along with some high grit sandpaper. I've got the helmet to a level of smoothness I am happy with.

My choice of Spray Putty is Motip Spray Putty. It's thick spray paint meant for filling in scratches



I used this putty to smooth out the Telemetry Unit too. I could've used the acetone/putty solution but I didn't feel comfortable applying it to a heavily detailed part.

           

The results of priming, filling and sanding

         


         

Next stage would be fixing the TU to the helmet.

By luck I found I had some screw caps on my house, but worth checking if these are acceptable, and if yes where on the helmet the should be fixed?

     

The TK Ammo belt I ordered also arrived. It's an ANH variant from RWA Creations. The provider of the ROTJ belt, CFO, was unable to provide a belt at this point in time.

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Quick update. I had a shot with my mother's overlocker (that's what a surger is called in the UK), and "made" a line of runoff thread. Aside from paint and glue does it need any extra alterations?

 

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

That spray putty actually looks like it did a solid job! I have used similar here in the US and it is pretty awesome.

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

I looked up the Catalon and I can get the tubes out of the UK through Ebay. @IcyTrooper which US equivelant did you find? 

The overlock thread is what I used on my gloves as well. I put a second layer of PVA on them to hold them in place. 

those caps are just like what I have on mine, and mine cover where the chinstrap is riveted in. As always with Spec Ops CRLs, they are your freind.

 

CRL Helmet page

Well done overall! 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

5 hours ago, Blackwatch said:

The overlock thread is what I used on my gloves as well. I put a second layer of PVA on them to hold them in place. 

those caps are just like what I have on mine, and mine cover where the chinstrap is riveted in. As always with Spec Ops CRLs, they are your freind.

 

CRL Helmet page

Well done overall! 

I'm assuming when you say PVA, you mean the glue?
Also what length of overlock thread did you use for each stitch on the gloves?

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

10 hours ago, Blackwatch said:

I looked up the Catalon and I can get the tubes out of the UK through Ebay. @IcyTrooper which US equivelant did you find? 

The overlock thread is what I used on my gloves as well. I put a second layer of PVA on them to hold them in place. 

those caps are just like what I have on mine, and mine cover where the chinstrap is riveted in. As always with Spec Ops CRLs, they are your freind.

 

CRL Helmet page

Well done overall! 

I may have misspoke, I think I thought it was filler primer 

The filler that I used for my ROTJ royal guard was Evercoat Poly-Flex Flexible Polyester Glazing Putty (https://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Evercoat-411-Poly-Flex-Polyester/dp/B000P6US6A). It is expensive but flexes pretty well without cracking at all. I know that it can add some weight though because @RAIDER was using it for his Cav and then ended up switching halfway through. I think it just depends on how much you wanna use of it.

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

On 6/6/2022 at 12:13 PM, SirCalcium said:

I'm assuming when you say PVA, you mean the glue?
Also what length of overlock thread did you use for each stitch on the gloves?

yes, PVA glue, common white school glue for Yanks. 

The  length was probably 2.5 to 3 inches just glued to the back of the hand. 

 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

I had a shot at gluing some lengths of overlocking thread to my gloves, and I decided before I go to far to show what I've done and make sure it hasn't gone wrong.
There's a part nearer the bottom of the left stitch I may have to apply a new layer of thread

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

Roger that! Carry on. 

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Alright I went ahead with the gloves, and I'm happy with them. Need to be greened now.



I managed to get a chin cups, plus spares



So now the questions are;
1. Webbing or elastic for the strap that hangs from the helmet?
2. How best to secure the strap to the helmet?
3. When attaching the TU to the helmet is there a specific location, or keep it on the left side above the ear?

I'm to guess the strap and optional screw caps would be in line with the wearers ears?
 

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

in all cases when it comes to the caps and the location of the telemetry unit, the CRL is always correct.

 

My chinstrap goes to pop rivets inside the screw cap covers. I had to figure out the location so its fits me right. 

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

You can see the relavent positions  

[SirCalcium[TX]]

Quick update. Gloves with stitching have been painted