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DoggyDoc’s Jimmiroquai Imperial Death Trooper Build Thread


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Managed to do a bit more work on the belt as well as some mods for the E-11D today.

 

I created a template for the canvas belt pouches and then put them together.  The final version will likely be stuffed a bit more than the one in the photos.

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For the E-11D,  I have been trying to figure out where to place the battery for the electronics.  The hand grip seems to be the spot where it will fit best, but the 2 posts inside will make it very hard to get the battery out, once it goes past them.  

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So I designed and printed a cradle for the battery that allows it to be placed in and removed easily.

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Gerald, I know you worked on using the handle. I put mine in the  side magazine, and used small neodymian discs to hold in place. I thought about the using the handle but I was afraid that having the handle "separate-able" might create a weak spot in the construction, especially since a lot of times the handle will be your only holding point. 

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2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Gerald, I know you worked on using the handle. I put mine in the  side magazine, and used small neodymian discs to hold in place. I thought about the using the handle but I was afraid that having the handle "separate-able" might create a weak spot in the construction, especially since a lot of times the handle will be your only holding point. 

I wanted to do this originally, but the compartment is too small.  Can you show me a photo of how you set yours up?

 

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20 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

I wanted to do this originally, but the compartment is too small.  Can you show me a photo of how you set yours up?

 

I'm sure my mag well and mag were big enough for a 9volt. Is your 3D files the correct size? Some 3D files and printed kits you get from some makers are 12% too small. I did a size comparison so people could make sure they had the right size. I'll see if I can find it. I'm not at the house right now so I can't take any photos for a few more weeks.

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13 hours ago, Chaos said:

Is your 3D files the correct size?

Hey Chris. 
 

Thanks for finding that photo. I checked the size and my prints are the right size. The magazine well wall is a bit thick, so I will try to modify it and see if I can thin the wall and fit the battery in. 

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4 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

Hey Chris. 
 

Thanks for finding that photo. I checked the size and my prints are the right size. The magazine well wall is a bit thick, so I will try to modify it and see if I can thin the wall and fit the battery in. 

You know what .... now that you said something. I took a 9volt sized 3D file block and inserted it into the mag and mag well files and then subtracted the space in my 3D builder program. That's how I was able to get it to fit. :laugh1: my "sometimers" was kicking in.

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E-11D battery placement update. 
 

In complete agreement with @Chaos, I feel that putting the battery in the handle will be a mistake. Every time the battery would be changed, the screws securing the handle will need to be removed. Given that the threads are in resin, I feel that over time, it will become looser and looser. 

The magazine is the best place to put it, but the design of the Tom Campbell / Martin Martinez magazine and magazine well do not allow for modifications to fit a 9V battery. 
 

I looked at the file Chaos provided but decided to go with the magazine housing that I used for my E-11 (Trooper96’s files) for my TK costume. This one has a working spring release button and the magazine can be inserted and locked in place securely. I had to slightly enlarge it by 10% and open up the inside of the magazine a bit to fit the battery as well as conform the base to the E-11D barrel. 
 

Pictured below are the original magazine set up (lighter resin) and my new one (darker resin)

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Got a bit of work done on the E-11D lighting today. 
‘I had planned to use red and yellow EL panels but the yellow looks more white when illuminated and the red looks pinky. I went with one long yellow panel across both openings and then printed covers in yellow and clear red resin. I think the results are what I was hoping for. 
 

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15 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

E-11D battery placement update. 
 

In complete agreement with @Chaos, I feel that putting the battery in the handle will be a mistake. Every time the battery would be changed, the screws securing the handle will need to be removed. Given that the threads are in resin, I feel that over time, it will become looser and looser. 

The magazine is the best place to put it, but the design of the Tom Campbell / Martin Martinez magazine and magazine well do not allow for modifications to fit a 9V battery. 
 

I looked at the file Chaos provided but decided to go with the magazine housing that I used for my E-11 (Trooper96’s files) for my TK costume. This one has a working spring release button and the magazine can be inserted and locked in place securely. I had to slightly enlarge it by 10% and open up the inside of the magazine a bit to fit the battery as well as conform the base to the E-11D barrel. 
 

Pictured below are the original magazine set up (lighter resin) and my new one (darker resin)

aTKxQ5A.jpg
 

n4U7AUB.jpg
 

Damn! I have got to get me a resin printer. All the sanding of my Mando Dark Trooper is tedious.

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1 hour ago, Chaos said:

Damn! I have got to get me a resin printer. All the sanding of my Mando Dark Trooper is tedious.

Still some sanding with resin but so much less. Also the speed at which they print is so much faster than filament. All of the parts for the magazine took about 8 hours. 

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Hey guys,

Any tips for addressing the pinholes on the thigh ribbed section?

So far (and depending on where the holes are) I've been attacking them with miliput/p38 (aka bondo)/spot putty/resin, but the ribbed section on the thighs looks like the Somme battlefield or something.

I'm tempted to cut them out and replace them with some ribbed rubber I have lying about from a previous build, but I don't want to compromise the strength too much.

Cheers!

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I haven’t looked at mine yet. I wonder if uV resin brushed over the area would work better as it won’t fill in the gaps as much. Otherwise Bondo would be the right stuff to use.  
the rubber is screen accurate I believe and I have seen it used on previous builds, so I suspect it would work ok. If the area is too soft, you could always back it with fibreglass. 

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Thanks man. I think I'll experiment with the UV resin, but I'm erring on the side of ribbed rubber... just a bit worried about the strength. 

I'm very close to completing my armour now, just fixing up the shins - they are by far the hardest piece of the kit imo. Sanding the ladders in the forearms was finicky, but the shins just don't fit together. I'm still sanding/dremelling the seams to get them as flush as possible before gluing, but it's taking forever. 

 

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Did the weathering on the buckles today. Does this look okay?  I have not had a lot of practice at weathering.  
 

I did a base of silver, then put a coat of clear coat on the silver and let it dry completely.  Then I went over it with the black and wiped off the black before it dried with lacquer thinner. 
 

still need to do a couple layers of clear coat once I am happy with it. 
 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/12/2023 at 2:10 AM, Dexas said:

How did you secure the grenade/thermal detonator on the back plate?

Hey Alex. 
 

I designed and 3D printed brackets to hold the thermal detonator in place. I used threaded heat sunk nuts and bolts to attach them to the back plate and used CM glue to attach the thermal detonator on the other side. 
 

I can send you the files for the brackets but I am away on vacation for the next week, so it will have to wait a bit. 
 

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Hey, wanted to thank @DoggyDoc for this amazing thread.  I've never done anything like this before, but took the leap after encouragement from a friend who's a long-time 501st member.  This thread has become my step-by-step how-to guide.  I just finished coating the inside of the armor with FlexSeal (brush on).  The first batch is dry and the second batch is drying.  Thanks again!

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@Hillmansm72  One piece of advice with coating the inside of the armour, which I am not sure that I mentioned in the thread is to make sure to sand it off in the areas where you are gluing, applying Velcro or bonding pieces together 

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