DeathMOS30

Alright Well I finally finished painting the FA-3 Fletchette so tomorrow one last look over then spray the gloss/matte finish on it and call it finished for now. I have yet to get more work down on my SET helmet as the weather in Florida is retarded and its like one minute sunny nice the next starts pouring down rain. Or like on Tuesday just rained all day. So hopefully tomorrow the weather will be better so i can get some more progress on the SET helmet. Anyway here is some pictures, my camera isnt the best, im not the worlds best painter when it comes to detailed stuff but i think it came out pretty good. Enjoy PEW PEW Oh btw there are red and green leds that the red switch turns on and if you push the button in the trigger area there are blue leds that light up from the barrel

So cool I like cant wait to see it Would that mean we need to add these things to the CRL?

Alright small update. I had to put working on this on hold because of school. I finally will get to start working on the helmet next week. Still searching for that perfect visor but I got some ideas I can utilize if I cant get the exact one i want. On an awesome note the FA-# Fletchette I commissioned woodchuck to make is complete and I will be picking that up this weekend. its so pretty It lights up So looking forward to painting that as well. After all that is finished get to play the waiting game for add on parts and Anovos TK. Probably will start looking for boots and sew the pouches while i wait

Sorry to hear that but I understand hopefully later down the road when things calm down possibly try again?

It does look pink I always thought the color was pink. Looks amazing though

Flame on

Its a great deal and it looks super awesome I vote for go for it

http://www.anovos.com/collections/new-releases/products/star-wars-imperial-shadowtrooper-pre-order

Good to hear

Looking good keep up the good work

Awesome progress loving all the pics keep up the good work. Oh also once you get those clips done and attached to your thermal detonator a little hint put a strip of black velcro on the clips to keep it from scratching up your armor when you put it on your belt. here is an example.

Oh ok so just adhere to the CRL http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_shadow_stormtrooper and also the specialist requirements http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/2814-specialist-requirements-shadow-stormtrooper/

yay keep up the awesome work and best of luck with your build

There is no one 'best' armor. There is a 'best' armor for *you* depending on a few factors: 1) Your budget 2) What your body size is (yes, different armors lend themselves for different body types) * 3) How experienced are you at building armor 4) It's not the kit, it's how it's fitted to the wearer that counts * All makes below can be made to be both 501st and Spec Ops acceptable. MATERIALS Armor is made from either HIPS or ABS. HIPS --- Pros: generally less expensive, easier to trim. --- Cons: needs painting or serious polishing to look shiny. Most HIPS will not be as durable as ABS or take the stress of ABS --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping ABS --- Pros: no need to paint, high durability --- Cons: may lack the detail of HIPS, usually harder to trim --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping plus take a lot of abuse 3D Printed ---Pros: Can print armour to custom size. If prepared correctly 3D printed armour is very durable and can provide detail that vacformed armour cannot. Easy to print replacement parts. ---Cons: Requires A LOT OF SANDING, priming and painting. If not prepared correctly armour is prone to breaking or cracking and; Print lines can become visible through paint OTHER TERMS Untrimmed: means the kit comes untrimmed and you'll have to trim the parts before starting assembly. Trimmed: parts are pre-trimmed and you can start assembling right away * ON SIZING ANH Derived armor (TE2, AP) was sculpted for a typical UK actor circa 1976, e.g. 5'10" and 165lbs. While good for smaller body types, it has been successfully made to fit people as large as 6'4" 235lbs though requires a bit of shimming to pull this off. 1. If you are taller or larger in frame/girth, you may want to consider AM, RT, or TM armor makes for easier fitting. 2. If you are shorter, while ANH derived armor may lend itself to your size, even FX armor has been made to fit and look good on people as small as 5'6" and 115lbs (and smaller!). 3. RT has upsized his helmet by 4-5% which makes it equivalent to the size of the old FX but is more accurate in appearance. So, while it's true that every kit has a certain ideal body type, every make has been made to fit every body type and still look good. Who to Avoid 1. Be aware that this site - http://www.stormtroo...s.com/home.html - is not considered commercially available. It is run by a person selling recast parts, and at a healthy premium over what you can buy direct from vetted sources. You've been warned... 2. Do not buy from e-bay - kits are over-priced, the quality is often dubious, and always recast. Helmet Information: http://forum.501stsp...ck-a-tx-bucket/

This List is not all inclusive there are other places to purchase items for your kits but this is a good starting point. Boots: Magmatroopers https://www.imperial...category/shoes/ Boots: All other Spec Ops costumes Check eBay Check Amazon Do some google searches see what you can find. Look for boots that look exactly like what is in the CRL's Silver Lenses: Check eBay Check Amazon Do some google searches see what you can find. Pauldron: https://www.etsy.com...oulder-pauldron http://www.ebay.com/...=item20e2552ec4 https://trooperbay.c...ulder-pauldrons Webbing: http://www.strapwork...yester_s/60.htm http://www.jontay.com/ Under Armor: http://www.eastbay.c...thing/_-_/N-2e4 http://www.stormtrooperundersuit.com/ Other: Trooper bay has a wide variety of items: http://trooperbay.com/ Our own Spec Ops For sale thread: http://forum.501stsp...-for-saletrade/ Darman Props: neck seals and holsters. https://www.facebook.com/darmanprops TKBoots sold in white but perfect for painting: http://www.tkboots.com/ Imperial Boots: sold in white but perfect for painting: http://imperialboots.com/ Anovos (be patient with them they take forever with shipping): https://www.anovos.com/ Ebay and Amazon can be great resources for things too just make sure they are exact like in the CRL's

There is no one 'best' armor. There is a 'best' armor for *you* depending on a few factors: 1) Your budget 2) What your body size is (yes, different armors lend themselves for different body types) * 3) How experienced are you at building armor 4) It's not the kit, it's how it's fitted to the wearer that counts * While Spec Ops Detachment does not endorse any particular armor maker, below are sellers who have proven themselves time and again in terms of customer service, honesty, and quality. All makes below can be made to be both 501st and Spec Ops acceptable. MATERIALS Armor is made from either HIPS or ABS. HIPS --- Pros: generally less expensive, easier to trim. --- Cons: needs painting or serious polishing to look shiny. Most HIPS will not be as durable as ABS or take the stress of ABS --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping ABS --- Pros: no need to paint, high durability --- Cons: may lack the detail of HIPS, usually harder to trim --- Suitability: will hold up fine for regular trooping plus take a lot of abuse OTHER TERMS Untrimmed: means the kit comes untrimmed and you'll have to trim the parts before starting assembly. Trimmed: parts are pre-trimmed and you can start assembling right away * ON SIZING ANH Derived armor (TE2, AP) was sculpted for a typical UK actor circa 1976, e.g. 5'10" and 165lbs. While good for smaller body types, it has been successfully made to fit people as large as 6'4" 235lbs though requires a bit of shimming to pull this off. 1. If you are taller or larger in frame/girth, you may want to consider AM, RT, or TM armor makes for easier fitting. 2. If you are shorter, while ANH derived armor may lend itself to your size, even FX armor has been made to fit and look good on people as small as 5'6" and 115lbs (and smaller!). 3. RT has upsized his helmet by 4-5% which makes it equivalent to the size of the old FX but is more accurate in appearance. So, while it's true that every kit has a certain ideal body type, every make has been made to fit every body type and still look good. Who to Avoid 1. Be aware that this site - http://www.stormtroo...s.com/home.html - is not considered commercially available. It is run by a person selling recast parts, and at a healthy premium over what you can buy direct from vetted sources. You've been warned... 2. Do not buy from e-bay - kits are over-priced, the quality is often dubious, and always recast. Helmet Information: http://forum.501stsp...ck-a-tx-bucket/

Good catches I will change that. Thank you

Hopefully more ST experts will chime in Checking out the specialist list it says this: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. the CRL says this: The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. So i guess it would depend on if you are going specialist or not Again I am not a ST expert so hopefully some more folks will chime in hope that helps.

Welcome and good luck with your build. Plenty of knowledgeable and helpful folks on here so you are in good hands.

No worries about showing the different set of armor from different years.We just need one set so when you have a chance to retake that full body pic that would be awesome. What needs to be replaced: Helmet What needs to be added: Undersuit SE14-R Possibly: since these are not required to be connected Posterior armor Kidney armor

http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/122-how-to-pick-a-tx-bucket/

As far as I know if you have already been approved with the FX helmet you can not be disapproved.As far as i know once approved and if you stay active based on the 501st legions rules of what it means to be active you wont lose your approval. If someone purchases and older kit and if it comes with an FX helmet the helmet will need to be replaced. The 501st legion does not approve FX helmets so that is not something that can be overlooked or changed as I know there was a long discussion about it somewhere on the 501st legion forum. That is a 501st legion rule and we cant make exceptions about that. As far as if someone paints their kit red or it comes already red is irrelevant as long as it adheres to the CRL. Approval process is by the local garrison GML or whomever so its up to them and they will base that on whats available in the CRL. Now if they contact us asking about the shade of red etc that we will have to cross that bridge when it arises. I know that a few members have gone white to red using high quality automotive paint so I dont forsee much of an issue but I dont think it would be wise to try and add a long explanation in the CRL. The CRL is meant to be a guideline on how the armor should look and any specific questions are usually answered in costumes detachment forum in build threads etc. The red armor first appeared in Star Wars Galaxy Magazine #3 Spring 1995 based on comic story about Lumiya Dark Star of the Empire. The gentle giant created only 400 statues world wide in possibly 2009 or 2010 maybe earlier i had a hard time trying to locate the actual time frame It may have also appeared earlier in this book The New Essential Guide to Weapons and Technology; Star Wars: The Visual Dictionary which was published back in 1998 As far as who made the first red abs kit I have no idea so that would be interesting if you could find that out and also some more interesting things about the magmatrooper that we don't know. I am sure folks would be interested to read what you have found out. Those were all very awesome points and good questions thanks Thomas

Here is the pictures that I took using my own set of armor. I am not a photoshop person so none of the photos are edited. If you cant use some of them no big deal I am just trying to help out Thomas in splitting the work etc Helmet Chest Armor Back Armor Hand Plates Shoulder Bell Armor Bicep Armor Forearm Armor Abdomen Plate Armor Kidney Plate Armor Posterior Plate Armor Belt Thigh Armor Lower Leg Armor

Ok here is the updated version of the CRL. For the armor as long as it is red and adheres to the CRL there is no reason to make a distinction based on the year it was made. The only thing that is not approvable is the FX helmet. Also I agree Magma Trooper should be kept as the name. Description: Magma Trooper Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: The New Essential Guide to Weapons and Technology; Star Wars: The Visual Dictionary The 501st approval requirements are listed in black. The Spec Ops Detachment defines one additional, optional level of costuming excellence. In the page below, requirements for level 2 are in blue. Please visit the Spec Ops Detachment web site for a full description of these standards. For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met. Special Notes: The armor parts shall be gloss red and made from one of these types of materials or like materials: Fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. Required Costume Components The following costume components must be present and appear as described below for approval Helmet For 501st approval: Traps (trapezoids on dome of the helmet) and tears (areas beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. Acceptable lens colors are black, smoke or dark green and must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the eyes. The grey “ears†has three to four bumps. Aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening is silver. Frown must have either 6 or 8 teeth cut our and grey coloring must not leave indented areas. The chin/vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is black Tube stripes are black and may number between 9 and 15 per side. There does not need to be the same number per side. Tears and traps may be hand painted, decals or decals that replicate hand painting. They must be grey with black outlines and highlights. FX/MRCE and/or EFLX PCR helmet does not meet the basic 501st requirements. For level two certification (if applicable): Lenses are black Correct hovi or resin cast hovi mic tips Ears should have three visible screws used per side, one above and below the ear bump and one at the base of the helmet. Two screws per side one above the ear bump and one at the base of the helmet. The drop from the ears must also bend towards the back of the helmet, can't fall vertically. Under Suit For 501st approval: Black non-textured material, either one piece or two piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Neck Seal For 501st approval: Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Shoulder Straps For 501st approval: These must be securely mounted in the front. May free float in the back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro or adhesives. For level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. Chest Armor For 501st approval: Must overlap the abdominal plate For level two certification (if applicable): Back Armor For 501st approval: Contains an “O II†design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. For level two certification (if applicable): Gloves For 501st approval: Must be black rubber, nomex, leather, or leather like material, with no visible straps or logos. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. For level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber like chemical gloves, in black. Hand Plates For 501st approval: Must be roughly pentagonal in shape. The hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. As an alternative to plastic, these may be made out of latex or latex-like material. For level two certification (if applicable): Shoulder Bell Armor For 501st approval: Must have one on each shoulder. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. For level two certification (if applicable): Bicep Armor For 501st approval: Must be fully closed. For level two certification (if applicable): Forearm Armor For 501st approval: Must be fully closed. For level two certification (if applicable): Abdomen Plate Armor For 501st approval: The ab plate has a button area with 6 black buttons, 3 grey buttons Buttons are approximately 7/16†in diameter For level two certification (if applicable): Armor side gaps need to be closed. This should be done by adding a shim of similar material that must be the color as the ab and back plate. Shims should fit flush and have minimal seam showing between the ab/back plates. Kidney Plate Armor For 501st approval: Single kidney butt plate is allowable. If separate butt plate is used it should line up below the bottom of the belt with the ab plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. For level two certification (if applicable): Posterior Plate Armor For 501st approval: Single kidney butt plate is allowable. If Separate butt plate is used it should line up below the bottom of the belt with the ab plate, with minimal gap between it and the kidney plate. For level two certification (if applicable): Belt For 501st approval: Belt face is made of plastic Belt proper made be made from glossy red material or red canvas. Must be 3 to 3.5†wide. The drop boxes dangles from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. For level two certification (if applicable): Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed Belt proper must be made from red canvas. Must be 3 to 3.5†wide. Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (AKA 02 canister) attaches to the center of back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder. The cylinder is between 2†and 2.5†diameter with red end caps on each end. The red control panel pad faces upwards with the controls/round washer style detail closet to the end of the right end cap Total length is approximately 7.50â€. The detonator is attached via metal or metallic appearing clips, approximately 1†wide. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Thigh Armor For 501st approval: Must be closed in the back. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. For level two certification (if applicable): The bottom corner of the thigh ammo belt are rounded off. Thigh ammo belt is attached to the thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. The solid head rivet attachment is painted red. Standard pop rivets are not allowed Lower Leg Armor For 501st approval: Must close in the back. Knee plates mount on both legs. The sniper knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. For level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate is aligned with the ridges on the shin. Sniper knee plate does not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shins. Boots For 501st approval: Boots are above ankle height and made of red leather or leather like material. White or other color boots may be painted red so long as the boots are maintained to remain the proper color. [*]Small U shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. [*]All stitching is red. Unnecessary or decorative stitching must not be present. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. For level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Holster For 501st approval: Holster is made of completely black leather or leather like material. Holster is worn on the left side of belt. The holster may be attached to the belt from behind using two fasteners. (one per strap) The fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present must meet the guidelines. Black Pauldron For 501st approval: Must be black in color and made from vinyl or leather. Must be worn over the right shoulder. E-11 Blaster For 501st approval: Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. For level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real replica ammo counter – based off of a Hengstler counter – shall be present D-ring mounted on the rear Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered) If using the Hasbro E-11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. SE-14R For 501st approval: Based on the cover of Lumiya: Dark Star of the Empire comic as seen in the Star Wars Galaxy Magazine issue # 3

Here are the generic photos that can be used. SE14-R Underarmor Gloves Holster Neck Seal E-11 Pauldron Boots Thermal Detonator Shoulder Straps