IcyTrooper

That is cool to know! I didn't notice that second hole because of the way it was assembled, they took about 3/4 of it away. Very interesting! Thanks for the info!

Interesting, so the only difference is where the code disk is? I know the teeth on the OT is 6 cut outs (which is what mine has) and on R1 it is 7 or 8 if I remember right. Here is mine: I guess that I see that the area is lowered around the code disk as opposed to a little flatter?

That was some good info. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that the Anovos Infernos were just OT repurposed with Inferno markings? I have an OT Anovos TIE and it looked the same as the Infernos that they claimed (which is still wrong).

If you're going for approval then the CRL images are what the GML's are going to use. Which part is wrong in the CRL? There is possibility to petition for a CRL review on it down the road as well if the evidence suggests otherwise.

Looking good! Just make sure that square on the center park of the pack is black and those two lines around it are black extending horizontally to the left, like in the CRL pic.

Helmet Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke, or dark green. The body of the "ears" are black. The bars have three or four bumps and are black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable color is black. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is black. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator can either be white, silver or black. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are solid black. Helmet flash is a light red stripe that runs horizontally along the brow with thicker sections cut at a right angle near the temple traps. Another horizontal light red stripe runs between the rear dome traps and is between half and three quarters the height of the traps. Light red bars are present under the tube stripes, on each side. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted black. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Traps/tears are solid black with no vertical lines present. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. The screen in the aerator tips shall be painted silver and the interior of the aerator tip shall be painted white. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with rivets, Velcro or adhesive. The rear tab of the strap is optional and may or may not be present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front. These shall need to be held down in the back with a black elastic band to the black fabric that connects/ bridges the chest and back armor. These shall be glued in front. The rear tab of the strap shall be removed same as the TKs seen in ANH movie. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder with a light red vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Biceps Biceps are fully closed with a light red vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width. Forearm Armor Forearms are fully sealed and closed with a light red vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms. Hand Plates Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material and are light red in color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted light red and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The chest plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Abdomen Armor The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 gloss buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 3/8" (10mm) from the edge. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. A single male snap on the top right of the corner of the ab plate shall be present and painted black. A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate and painted black. It does not need to be functional. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. Kidney Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out the depth of the armor and about 3/8" (10mm) from the edge. They should be aligned horizontally with the three rivets on the ab plate. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Cut-out notches at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 7/8" (22mm) tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate. Posterior Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab that are painted black. Snaps do not need to be functional. Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt. No button covers are present on the belt. The soft belt proper is made of black canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3" to 3.5” (75mm-90mm) wide. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Drop boxes must be attached using black elastic and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. No buttons are present on the belt. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt must be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted black in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. The hexagon in the center and upper ridge of the knee plate, as well as its top trim is painted light red. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Shines are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of black leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of a black cylinder with 2” (50mm) to 2.68” (68mm) in diameter with black end caps on each end and a black control panel pad. The black control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50” (190.5mm). No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. The detonator is attached to the black canvas belt with 1” (25mm) black or silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be black. Holster It is made of black leather or leather-like material. It is worn on the left side of the canvas belt and is attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the canvas belt from behind. Affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom, one on each side, painted in black. Fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. E-11 Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

Helmet Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke, or dark green. The body of the "ears" are black. The bars have three or four bumps and are black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and silver coloring must not leave the indented area. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is black. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator can either be white, silver or black. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are solid black. Helmet flash is a silver stripe that runs horizontally along the brow with thicker sections cut at a right angle near the temple traps. Another horizontal silver stripe runs between the rear dome traps and is between half and three quarters the height of the traps. Silver bars are present under the tube stripes, on each side. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted black. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Traps/tears are solid black with no vertical lines present. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. The screen in the aerator tips shall be painted silver and the interior of the aerator tip shall be painted white. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with rivets, Velcro or adhesive. The rear tab of the strap is optional and may or may not be present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front. These shall need to be held down in the back with a black elastic band to the black fabric that connects/ bridges the chest and back armor. These shall be glued in front. The rear tab of the strap shall be removed same as the TKs seen in ANH movie. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder with a silver vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Biceps Biceps are fully closed with a silver vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3/8" (10mm) width. Forearm Armor Forearms are fully sealed and closed with a silver vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms. Hand Plates Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material and are silver in color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted silver and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The chest plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3/8" (10mm). Abdomen Armor The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 gloss buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1/2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 3/8" (10mm) from the edge. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. A single male snap on the top right of the corner of the ab plate shall be present and painted black. A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate and painted black. It does not need to be functional. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. Kidney Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5/16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out the depth of the armor and about 3/8" (10mm) from the edge. They should be aligned horizontally with the three rivets on the ab plate. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Cut-out notches at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 7/8" (22mm) tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate. Posterior Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab that are painted black. Snaps do not need to be functional. Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, with three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt. No button covers are present on the belt. The soft belt proper is made of black canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3" to 3.5” (75mm-90mm) wide. The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the plastic belt face via black straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor where the thermal detonator is attached. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Drop boxes must be attached using black elastic and must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed. Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. No buttons are present on the belt. Holster It is made of black leather or leather-like material. It is worn on the left side of the canvas belt and is attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the canvas belt from behind. Affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom, one on each side, painted in black. Fasteners may be rivets, snaps or Chicago screws. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt must be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted black in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5/16” (8mm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. The hexagon in the center and upper ridge of the knee plate, as well as its top trim is painted silver. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Shines are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of black leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Thermal Detonator (A.K.A O2 canister) is attached to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of a black cylinder with 2” (50mm) to 2.68” (68mm) in diameter with black end caps on each end and a black control panel pad. The black control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer-style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50” (190.5mm). No silver stickers or silver paint is allowed. The detonator is attached to the black canvas belt with 1” (25mm) black or silver metal or metallic-appearing clips. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip). V-head screws are not permitted. Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Belt clips shall be made of metal and must be black. Pauldron Must be orange in color and made from vinyl, leather or leather like material. Must be worn over the right shoulder. E-11 Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock. Stock does not need to function. A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Correct style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

Helmet Lenses must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. They are either flat or bubbled. Acceptable colors are black, smoke, or dark green. The body of the "ears" are black. The bars have three or four bumps and are black. The frown must have 8 teeth cut out and any coloring must not leave the indented area. Acceptable color is black. Black mesh must be used to obscure the face of the wearer. The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is black. The aerators (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black, and screening can be either silver or black. The interior of the aerator can either be white, silver or black. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals. Acceptable colors are black (gloss/satin/matte) or dark gray. If dark gray is used then the tears and rear traps must have vertical black lines. Helmet flash consists of a single gold vertical stripe that travels from the top of the chin, between the eye lenses, to the back of the dome. Stripe does not enter the teeth area. A gold bar is also located under the tube stripes, on each side of the helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet. Screws are slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted black. Ear bars have four bumps only, not three. Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. The screen in the aerator tips shall be painted silver and the interior of the aerator tip shall be painted white. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh. Neck trim shall be an S-type profile rather than a U-type profile. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck. Under Suit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. Pauldron Must be gold in color and made from vinyl, leather or leather like material. Must be worn over the right shoulder. Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in the back. They can be affixed with rivets, Velcro or adhesive. The rear tab of the strap is optional and may or may not be present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed to secure the straps in the front. These shall need to be held down in the back with a black elastic band to the black fabric that connects/ bridges the chest and back armor. These shall be glued in front. The rear tab of the strap shall be removed same as the TKs seen in ANH movie. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder with a gold vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. The shoulder bells are considered effectively symmetrical. They can be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders. Shoulders have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and chest/back plate. Biceps Biceps are fully closed with a gold vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be a return edge that is present with a maximum width of 3⁄8" (10mm) width. Forearm Armor Forearms are fully sealed and closed with a gold vertical stripe running down the center of the outside. Overlap construction is only allowed for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Must be constructed using the butt plate joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. There shall be no return edges present on the inside of the front of the forearms. Hand Plates Pentagonal in shape, hand plates should be securely mounted over the back of the glove. These can be made up of plastic, latex or latex-like material and are gold in color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Handguards shall be latex or latex-like, painted gold and affixed with adhesive to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. Gloves Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black. Chest Armor Chest armor overlaps abdominal armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The chest plate shall have return edges all around it, maximum width of 3⁄8" (10mm). Chest and back shall be connected with a black fabric (preferably elastic) that does not stick out or show under the shoulder plastic straps. Ammo Pouches German MP-40 style ammo pouches. Black in color, made of canvas, leather or leather-like material. There are two minimum: One pouch on the left shoulder and one on the right hip. Optional: A rectangular black leather "roadblock" pouch may be substituted for the MP-40 styled right hip pouch. Back Armor Back plate contains a “O II” design with little or no overlap of the kidney plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Back plate shall have return edges all around, maximum width of 3⁄8" (10mm). Field Backpack Solid black in color and styled after the ANH Sandtrooper packs. A loose interpretation is allowed, but screen accuracy is encouraged. Abdomen Armor The abdomen armor has a button area with 9 gloss buttons. Correct sized buttons are approximately 7/16” (11mm) in diameter. Abdomen armor button area detail matches reference photos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There should be no gap between the ab and kidney plate, a single visible seam line is ideal. Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor shall be no more than 1⁄2” (12.5mm). Any shims used to achieve this effect shall have a similar material and color as with the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims should be flush and seams are allowed. Rivets on the left side of the ab plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5⁄16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out along the depth of the armor and about 3⁄8" (10mm) from the edge. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. A single male snap on the top right of the corner of the ab plate shall be present and painted black. A single split rivet or brad shall be present on the crotch tab of the ab plate and painted black. It does not need to be functional. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5⁄16” (8mm). Abdomen armor buttons are integrated directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. Kidney Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). If a separate kidney plate is used, it lines up with the abdomen armor. The top of the kidney armor is flush to or under the back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Three rivets shall be present on the left side of the kidney plate: a total of three fasteners, the heads should be rounded or domed, solid, approximately 5⁄16” (8mm) in diameter and equally spaced out the depth of the armor and about 3⁄8" (10mm) from the edge. They should be aligned horizontally with the three rivets on the ab plate. They must be painted black. Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head. Note: The original TK armor used the bifurcated rivets or split rivets. Cut-out notches at the bottom of the right and left side of the kidney armor are optional. If present, each notch is approximately 7⁄8" (22mm) tall and the back of the notch ideally is aligned with the front edges of the posterior armor plate. Posterior Armor The kidney/posterior armor may be either one piece (ROTJ style) or two pieces (ANH style). OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Two male snaps are present on the lower center tab that are painted black. Snaps do not need to be functional. Belt The ammo belt shall be made of similar material and color matching the overall armor. It is comprised of 6 rectangular boxes, and may have three square buttons, one centered in the middle and on each end of the belt. The soft belt proper is made of black canvas, or material with a canvas covering and must be 3" to 3.5” (75mm-90mm) wide. The belt closes by overlapping in the rear center of the kidney/posterior armor. MP-40 style ammo pouch is mounted on the right hip. Optional: A rectangular black leather "roadblock" pouch may be substituted for the MP-40 styled right hip pouch. Drop boxes (small rectangular boxes attached to standard trooper belts), holster and thermal detonator are not worn. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The corners of the black plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the canvas belt. The top of the ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. No buttons are present on the belt. Thigh Armor The thigh armor may open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The small ammo belt is installed on the bottom of the right thigh. The bottom corners of the thigh ammo belt shall be rounded off. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. Cover strips must end at the top of lower ridge in front and back. If the two parts of the thigh armor cannot fit the user, cover strip should not be too wide. Instead, shims can be used to close the back of the thigh armor. Shims shall have a similar material and color to the whole armor, should be flush without seams. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The thigh ammo belt must be attached to the thigh armor with a solid head rivet or fastener, painted black in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivet diameter should be approximately 5⁄16” (8mm). The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. Standard pop rivets are not allowed. Must be constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Lower Leg Armor The shin armor is able to open and firmly close in the back allowing the two halves to appear sealed. The trapezoid knee plate is affixed to the top of the left shin. The hexagon in the center and upper ridge of the knee plate, as well as its top trim is painted gold. Overlap construction is only allowable for kits that come with the cover strip molded into the part. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin. The sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin. Shins are constructed using the butt joint cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed. Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of black leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Alternate Pouch A rectangular black leather "roadblock" style pouch may be substituted for the MP-40 styled right hip pouch. DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle is much more powerful with a much greater range than the E-11 blaster. Because of its powerful, long range capabilities, this rifle is commonly used on Imperial controlled planets with large, clear, open areas. Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side. RT-97C Heavy Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the RT-97C features a long barrel to increase the firing range of the energy beam projectile. Three scopes increase accuracy and versatility. The first scope is an energy scanner capable of detecting life forms. The second scope is a rangefinder that automatically adjusts the targeting components. The third scope uses infrared heat imaging technology. Based on a real or replica MG-15 machine gun. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Correct style scopes. Silver metal hose is present on the right hand side of barrel between the trigger and “saddle barrel”. T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries. Based on a real or replica Lewis Mark I machine gun. For this prop the magazine disk and bipod of the original gun are left off. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): A ribbed length of tubing shall be installed over the front of the gun barrel. A black canvas, leather, or nylon sling shall be attached. Any buckles used to attach sling to blaster shall be black. Sight shall be present on top where ribbing meets base.

Imgur is good and I use Flickr.

The cog on the shoulder bell looks much better now! Nice work on that mohawk too!

Very nice! Feels pretty good too I bet.

Nice job on the corset piece. That is pretty much the setup I use for imperial combat assault tank driver / AT-ACT driver. I like to call the midsection the "barrel" because that is what it feels like.

I did a little digging on this and pretty neat! I didn't realize there were so many different images on the internet for the J-Sec. @Raider can chime in on this as DL, but I believe it may end up over at the Underworld detachment since they have the Canto Bight Police Officer, and J-Sec doesn't appear to be a division of the Galactic Empire. We can definitely hit up the LMO's and see where it may be placed before checking over there. Standby!

I got my pouches from Trooperbay.

That list is great, Darren! Can't wait to see this!

What @Halycon, said. We don't really specify brands for the paint but personally I've used both Testors and Humbrol paints. Both my black helmets were bought pre-assembled from Anovos but I'd imagine the paint color would be 11 Silver Metallic for Humbrol or Testors 1146TT, if I was a guessing person. I know the paint codes for the regular stormtrooper, just not sure on the TX. ?

@Raider got you suited on the side panel, and yep check the size of that cog. It does look a little on the large side. I liken the size of it close to what is found on the sleeve of a flightsuit, maybe just a tad bit larger.

Nice looking E-10!

Very well done! So much movement going on with this trooper!

Anything is possible!

I think if you pull your thighs up just a little bit (the left leg one especially) then you should be fine. They don't look troublesome to me. That stuff on the back that is missing is really up to the GML. I personally allow "comfort cuts" like that to assist with walking and reduce pinches. The biggest thing for me with the shims is the color match Ie.g. armor is shiny and shims are dull) and that looks fine on this. You may just want to round out that gap a little so that it doesn't pinch. You should be able to search to see those cuts on other armor (especially regular stormtroopers) to see how they do it. As long as that back strip has a cover strip and ends at the ridge you are fine.

Hey there, Doug and welcome to the forums! The armor looks pretty good! May want to take a few pics with a neutral background such as white or grey to help see all the details. Black is hard to photograph I know ? There are a few things that I can see that need to be looked at: Ab buttons should be black, not silver. Easy fix! You're missing the 4-button plate on the ab: Belt should be attached to the left side from behind via two fasteners at the bottom: Your shins are closing the wrong way, the outside of each leg should attach and overlap the inside of each leg. Opposite of what you have now, but another easy fix! On the right side you have a strap with snap that popped off, no biggie but make sure it isn't there for the GML review. On your right thigh the ammo belt is installed too high. The rivet should be in the upper corner and that upper corner then aligns with the ridge on the thigh: You may want to touch up the paint on the chin/vocoder as well, looks like it is coming off a bit.

Looks great!!

I should've check that first. I remember that now.

The helmet is coming along!