Chaos

Nice!, Don't forget to paint your snaps black.

Excellent progress! Sounds like you are eventually going to go for L2, if that is the case, once you perfect your shoulder strap mixture, try and find a mold that has the curvature required for the shoulder straps "Shoulder straps will be rubber with the same appearance as basic, but they will also have a slight inward angled curve following the shape of the neck opening." Also keep in mind, the thigh rubber gaskets are different widths. The ribbed infill shall be made of black rubber, or a semi-gloss black material, or if part of the thigh pieces, have the appearance of being rubber or rubber-like material. The inside thigh ribbed section is wider than the outside ribbed section.

https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-Intensity-Lighting-Electronics-Components/dp/B07RB5FG8W drill two 10mm holes in the center of the lights, cover with white opaque lens or cover, run the wires to your battery and switch ... bam, you have lights.

Chris, Do you have access to a 3D FPM or resin printer? If so you can use these files I used on my Jim kit. Print at 100% infill. I didn't like the shoulder and V rings. The lower side buckles are good enough, I just hollowed out the Buckle to accommodate a side strap that I made. I attached my chest rig all the time and it is heavy because I have heavy magazines in the pouches, I have never had an issue with any of it. This kit is expensive in it's basic form, metal accessories are nice to have but so not necessary! 0 Updated Shoulder Buckles and Rings 8 Feb 2021.stl 1 Side Buckle Straps 10 Feb 21.stl

This is the appearance of the flat black rubber seal around the inside edge of an Anovos helmet, it matches the size and appearance of the screen used helmet's rubber seal. Since there is no basic approval requirement for the rubber seal and its only referenced as an L2 requirement your GML will probably approve it without a seal. However, if a rubber seal is on a helmet, your GML may require that it at least looks accurate. Any seal that is approximately 15-20mm across the flat area will work. So make sure that what ever you put around the edge looks like the Anovos seal, especially if you are thinking of an L2 approval. This seal material I know meets the requirement. I get that the CRL doesn't give specific measurements, but this sentence "Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GMLs and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume." adds another layer to any L2 determination. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Channel-Length-Protector-1-5-2mm/dp/B0C2HMP9MK/

Anything that would mount the TD to the belt would work. Paul's mount might need to be modified so that the mount itself sits flush against the curvature of the DT TD. Just don't use zip-ties wrapped around the TD 😄

Your list is solid. My kit is a Jimmi kit. I have made a lot of upgrades over the years. You will find his parts are slightly heavier than an ABS kit. I like that about Jim's material because ABS wouldn't stand up to the abuse I have put my armor thru. Let me know if you have any questions about anything. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Sending you a message.

Congratulations Dan!

Here is what an Anovos looks like, if you trim the rim and add the black flat rubber gasket yours should be good to go.

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helmet as it is presented on the website is approvable

I have the system, with the files I don't need to scramble my voice. I only talk normal if I need to, the rest of the time I just reply to people using the audio file. There is an app for iphones that you can adjust your voice output that sounds similar but not exact to the DT scrambled comms.

I've seen DTs with an Aker speaker in their chest armor, it did have to be positioned as to not hinder the abdomen armor. Have you thought about UKSWRATH's helmet sound system? Not sure if you have considered it but here is a video a made a few years back.

Rob, you are in luck! If you have a 3D printer or access to one, you can use these files for all your pouches: 1 Updated Belt pouch covers 150x75x8.stl Belt box and or fillers 150x87x60.st Chestrig LEFT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig RIGHT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl

CJ, I think you may have misinterpreted what was being said. The CRL has always stated: Boots Boots are made from matte black leather or leather-like material with a capped toe and seams as seen in the photo. The sole shall have no heel. The boots extend under the shins. All fastenings/laces are hidden behind a rectangular panel made of smooth rubber or a shiny black material with approximately 1/4" (6mm) wide horizontal ribs. The side edges of the panel shall be turned back on themselves to form a smooth rib-less border. The rectangular panel extends from under the shin. For basic approval the boots have to look "similar" to the Dr Martens but only have to meet the above criteria. For Level 2, they have to either be Jareds or "replicas." OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Original Dr Martens “Jered” shoes or replicas with a leather pull tab midway on the heel. The rectangular panels shall not be wider than the width of the top of the shoe and will lay as flat as possible against the shoe with the front edge not extending past the upper and sole seam. Currently there are two makers who provide L2 approvable "replicas", Crow Props and Keep Trooping. Right now both have the boots available on their sites: https://keeptrooping.com/product/killer/ https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/deathtrooper-boots

Jack, Welcome to the Darker side of the Darkside! Excellent choice in choosing a Death Trooper. We have someone who ordered a finished Jinta kit, he would be ideal to connect with for information and tips about the kit. His forum name is @AChanster Best of luck on your kit. Any questions you can think of have probably been asked and answered in the DT forums. Use the search feature, but if you can't find the answer, there are a lot of Troopers who can assist.

As far as the Denuo Novo DT helmet, they took over the Anovos production and the helmets are identical. So yes, they are approvable as is. The only thing that I am not 100% sure about would be the screening and black backing of the side snout vents.

Dan, You are wanting to basically visually replicate these recessed areas of the shins. Because people have had to trim shins to make them the correct length, we agreed that as long as the upper edge appears to be there its acceptable.

Those boots are Doc Martens Talib boots, they are basic CRL approvable. I would recommend using those unless you are trying for Level 2, then you would need the DM Jared or replica boots.

Asher, excited to hear that we will have another DT in our ranks. If you prefer an ABS kit there are two options right now: 850AW and Jinta Props, both meet basic approval. There are several Troopers who have either made each, or are in the progress of making. I recommend looking through their build threads and note the Pros and Cons to each kit. I took a look at the Black Series helmet. Currently the Preorder option is sold out. I was hoping to grab one and take a hands on look. From what I can tell from the online photos and the SWC video on Fanta Track's site, This is what I see: The Neuro-Saav Macromotion (NSM) Monitor has a white LED in the upper elongated oval which is not in the CRL nor do we see it in any screen shots. This will have to be discussed at the Detachment Level to determine if any CRL wording will be changed. All the assembly seams will need to be filled in which will requires a repaint. The electronics button on the NSM shouldn't be an issue as it is already part of NSM details photo on the CRL. The paint scheme does not have all the "asymmetrical" colors, it looks as if it is all gloss black. As long as a helmet presented for approval has all the CRL requirements and looks like the CRL photos, it should be approvable, even if it is a Black Series.

Revision 0 Thigh Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. It has an overall elongated rectangle shape and the appearance of one closed piece with the lower portion tapering inward just above the knee. There is a 0.4" to 0.61" (0-15mm) recess around the lower edge of the thigh. The front side is slightly rounded outwards and tapers inward top to bottom. There is a narrow elongated vertical recess approximately 1.2" to 1.6" (30-40mm) wide centered on the front of the thigh which starts at the lower edge and ends approximately 2" to 2.4" (50-60mm) from the top end. There is a trapezoid shaped raised strip inset in the front recess. The lower end is flush with the bottom edge of the recess 1" to 1.4" (25-35mm) from the top edge. Refer to the CRL photo for details. There is a narrow recess that runs from the inside corner of raised strip at 45 degrees up to the inner thigh opening. There is an elongated vertical recess approximately 3.9" (100mm) wide in the lower 2/3rd of the outside thigh. There is a raised inset detail which has four rectangular cutouts of varying height aligned vertically. Detail is flat or matte black in color. Refer to the CRL photo for details. There is a raised detail at the top of the outside thigh which has three raised circle rings of varying height and width. The detail is flat or matte black in color. There is an elongated vertical recess approximately 35-50mm wide centered on the rear of the thigh. The recess runs the length of the thigh. There may be additional details on the upper inner thigh area that has the appearance of mechanical jointing. Details are silver in color. Thighs may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

Hey Dan, sorry for the delay on this but the photos you posted over on the FB DT build group reminded me to take a look. I figured I'd post it here instead of on the FB page. If you have any questions about what I am talking about let me know and I can post some explanatory photos. Couple of things before you submit for basic approval. First thing ... you have done a great job with your kit, it's obvious you put a lot of time and effort into it. There are just a few "minor" things to work out, most you have identified already. - Forearms, the ladder detail is aligned with the bicep and shoulder center raised cover strip - Left forearm, cylindrical detailed parts, need to be painted metallic black (TS40) or weathered silver, since you already have them silver, just hit them with some thinned black paint wash. - Boot covers, put some velcro on the front corners to make the covers lay over the shape of the boot toe. This will keep you from looking like you have “duck feet” - Boot covers, if you put a piece of velcro on the front top side of the cover, and the other piece on the shin front inside, it will help keep the boot cover under the shin and help keep your shin from rotating around. - Thermal detonator, remove the zip ties or whatever the two bands near the middle. - Forearms/Shins, any pieces that you have clam shelled for closures, make sure they are completely closed when you submit. - Biceps, CRL “It is held in place by one or two black elastic cord straps.” The elastic cords are the same type as a ponytail holder (which is what they were on the screen suits. The elastic band you have is way too wide. Ask your GML if he/she will accept it. I can go back and take a look for Level 2 if you like.