Chaos

Asher, excited to hear that we will have another DT in our ranks. If you prefer an ABS kit there are two options right now: 850AW and Jinta Props, both meet basic approval. There are several Troopers who have either made each, or are in the progress of making. I recommend looking through their build threads and note the Pros and Cons to each kit. I took a look at the Black Series helmet. Currently the Preorder option is sold out. I was hoping to grab one and take a hands on look. From what I can tell from the online photos and the SWC video on Fanta Track's site, This is what I see: The Neuro-Saav Macromotion (NSM) Monitor has a white LED in the upper elongated oval which is not in the CRL nor do we see it in any screen shots. This will have to be discussed at the Detachment Level to determine if any CRL wording will be changed. All the assembly seams will need to be filled in which will requires a repaint. The electronics button on the NSM shouldn't be an issue as it is already part of NSM details photo on the CRL. The paint scheme does not have all the "asymmetrical" colors, it looks as if it is all gloss black. As long as a helmet presented for approval has all the CRL requirements and looks like the CRL photos, it should be approvable, even if it is a Black Series.

Revision 0 Thigh Armor Gloss black in color except as annotated below. It has an overall elongated rectangle shape and the appearance of one closed piece with the lower portion tapering inward just above the knee. There is a 10-15mm recess around the lower edge of the thigh. The front side is slightly rounded outwards and tapers inward top to bottom. There is a narrow elongated vertical recess approximately 30-40mm wide centered on the front of the thigh which starts at the lower edge and ends approximately 50-60mm from the top end. There is a trapezoid shaped raised strip inset in the front recess. The lower end is flush with the bottom edge of the recess 25-35mm from the top edge. Refer to the CRL photo for details. There is a narrow recess that runs from the inside corner of raised strip at 45 degrees up to the inner thigh opening. There is an elongated vertical recess approximately 100mm wide in the lower 2/3rd of the outside thigh. There is a raised inset detail which has four rectangular cutouts of varying height aligned vertically. Detail is flat or matte black in color. Refer to the CRL photo for details. There is a raised detail at the top of the outside thigh which has three raised circle rings of varying height and width. The detail is flat or matte black in color. There is an elongated vertical recess approximately 35-50mm wide centered on the rear of the thigh. The recess runs the length of the thigh. There may be additional details on the upper inner thigh area that has the appearance of mechanical jointing. Details are silver in color. Thighs may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

Hey Dan, sorry for the delay on this but the photos you posted over on the FB DT build group reminded me to take a look. I figured I'd post it here instead of on the FB page. If you have any questions about what I am talking about let me know and I can post some explanatory photos. Couple of things before you submit for basic approval. First thing ... you have done a great job with your kit, it's obvious you put a lot of time and effort into it. There are just a few "minor" things to work out, most you have identified already. - Forearms, the ladder detail is aligned with the bicep and shoulder center raised cover strip - Left forearm, cylindrical detailed parts, need to be painted metallic black (TS40) or weathered silver, since you already have them silver, just hit them with some thinned black paint wash. - Boot covers, put some velcro on the front corners to make the covers lay over the shape of the boot toe. This will keep you from looking like you have “duck feet” - Boot covers, if you put a piece of velcro on the front top side of the cover, and the other piece on the shin front inside, it will help keep the boot cover under the shin and help keep your shin from rotating around. - Thermal detonator, remove the zip ties or whatever the two bands near the middle. - Forearms/Shins, any pieces that you have clam shelled for closures, make sure they are completely closed when you submit. - Biceps, CRL “It is held in place by one or two black elastic cord straps.” The elastic cords are the same type as a ponytail holder (which is what they were on the screen suits. The elastic band you have is way too wide. Ask your GML if he/she will accept it. I can go back and take a look for Level 2 if you like.

That is why I have multiple harnesses.

I wanted all my armor sections to move independently. example my upper chest and back sit squarely on my shoulders and move with my upper torso. My abdomen and lower back are attached as the corset which is snug with my waist and twists with my lower back and abodmen. My thighs need to be supported to keep the correct height and gap when I raise and lower my legs, climb stairs, sit down etc. The correct height is set based off my shoulders. This is where I chose to suppport them from. I origianlly had everything strapped like a TK where everything was attached the piece above it and then hung below. for less complicated kits that works fine, but the weight of all the DT pieces plus the complexity of how the parts are supposed to move led me to my current strapping process. If you check out Paul's Shore Trooper, it is basically the same way.

I figured out how much I needed to trim off the top edges of the thighs to keep them from pinching (it was about 2") So I put painter's tape along the top edges and measured 2 " from the top edges and just drew a new top edge. Then I uses a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the 2" off. You can use any type of ABS or thick plastic material to cut a strip. My kit has the same bottom edge that is turned back and has a gap. The piece that I designed has a raised block that slides into the gap so that it can be epooxied to the inside of the lower abdomen. photo and file attached. UPDATED abdomen belt extension piece.stl

This might help. Go to pages 20-23 for a solution. This is how I affix my belt.Armor Strapping.pdf

No need to clear coat the TS40, won't effect any approval at all.

^^^this^^^

It makes sense to say all hard pieces are gloss black unless otherwise stated. Then we can eliminate the gloss black on each section 👍 I concur with your edits. I think the thighs are next in my cue. I'll get it on here this weekend.

I'll take a look this weekend. Since it looks like it is a Jim Tripon kit I know exactly what I had to modify to meet L2.

Don't mind at all. Happy to answer any questions you may have

Hey guys, thought I would throw out a tidbit concerning weapons and Level 2. Weapons are not required for any type of approval, but if they are included in approval photos they must meet the Level being applied for. With that being said, if you are going for Level 2 and your weapons are only Level 1, don't use them in the photos. For the L2 action shot you can point, fist bump, peace sign etc and it counts as an action photo. By the way any DT L2 approvals come my way for input.

It's the lighting and angle, both are the same type sticker.

If you have someone who has a Silhouette cutting machine I have a file to use. When I was not working overseas I had them in my Etsy shop. I used chrome adhesive vinyl to cut the decal out. It has been on my pistol for years and has not peeled off at all. LOL someone that I gave the file to some years ago has started selling them. Kind of a dick move since I gave the file to him but it is what it is. If you want the file send me a PM and I'll send it to you.

ahh I hate auto correct. it should say "smooth and rigid" thanks for the catch

Revision 0 Belt The belt is smooth and rigid and creates a circular band around the wearer’s waist with no visible buckle or fastening mechanism. The belt has an overall width of approximately 70-80 mm. (based upon comparison to Din Djarin’s ammo canister height) There is one rectangular hard box approximately 105mm x 85mm, offset center to the wear’s right. All four front side edges are beveled inward. There is a narrow rectangular recess, approximately 80mm x 10mm, along the box’s lower front plate. There are two smaller rectangular hard boxes, that are side by side, approximately 52mm x 85mm offset center to the wearer’s left. All four front side edges are beveled inward. There are two leather or leather-like material rectangular pouches to the wearer’s left side, one is approximately 52mm x 90mm and the other is approximately 52mm x 100mm. Both pouches have a top fold over flap which has a single black snap closure and covers about 3/5th of the front of the pouch. The most rearward pouch sits slightly lower on the belt than the forward pouch. There is one leather or leather-like material rectangular pouch to the wearer’s right side, approximately 52mm x 100mm. The pouch has a top fold over flap which has a single black snap closure and covers about 3/5th of the front of the pouch. There are two rectangular hard boxes, approximately 95mm x 114mm x 20mm, located aft of the wearer’s hip. The boxes slant outward approximately 20-30 degrees. The box has a rectangular cover with an upper to lower outward taper. The lid has approximately 16-20 raised narrow details equally spaced across the front of the cover. The lower edge of the cover has an inward beveled edge. There is a horizontal Thermal Detonator located on the rear center of the belt. is a circular canister with approximately 14 evenly spaced grooves extending to the end caps and is attached to the lower back armor. Width is approximately the same as the lower back plate Belt and belt accessories may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume

Andreas, we are almost done with the CRL descriptions, once we do that, if your build matches, then we can have you take Hi resolution photos of your armor pieces and full suit up photos as reference photos to send into the Legion. New to the Legion costumes are very time consuming. I have seen some CRLs take up to 2 years start to finish. If I had to guess on this one, I would say probably less than 3-4 months provided we can finalize all the CRL wording, and your kit meets the wording.

I have noticed in most of the ABS DT kits, the edges and the recess are there, just not as sharp. With that being said, as long as there is an "oblong recess", no matter how slight it is, your GML should be able to approve it. Some with the ABS kits have used 3D printed handplates so that the details are sharper.

Apologies all, work has been a blotch, I'll get the belt done this week.

1st, positioning looks good. 2nd, a single connection is OK, you might want to widen the connector, I'm just thinking with a narrow single point you have a fulcrum point and any pressure on any of the ends could cause a structual failure at the connection point. 3rd, center based upon the blue line.

I just put a nose pad where my Anovos presses down on my nose. It still sits on my nose but is less painful. Even with the helmet liner, you can put a pad in the top to raise it up slightly as well.

Thank you Andreas, we can come back to the legs, joints and boots when we get to them. Next up will be the belt. I will finish up sometime this week, as I had lost my reference photos and had to check on a few minor details.

Considering that the joints were CGI'd, the way you have made your joints works. Impressive craftsmanship. We can fine tune the joints later, but I believe we are at a 98% solution for the joints.