Chaos

Just thought I would add this. Not so much a "reference" photo, but it is what my 3D hand files currently look like. This project was a "FUN" one.

@IcyTrooper You are correct Sir! Revision 0 Gloves Gloves are black in color, made of either rubber, Nomex, fabric, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured. Extend underneath the forearm armor. Revision 0 Hand Amor and Fingers Hand armor and fingers are gloss black except where annotated. May be separate from or attached to the gloves. The hand armor consists of two distinct pieces; a base piece and handplate. The base piece which sits over the back of the hand is slightly curved across the back of the hand. May have an outside (pinky) edge which is angled down and wrapped around to the palm. May have an inside (thumb) edge which is shorter beginning just aft of the thumb joint and wrapped to the palm. The handplate is flat and elongated with eight sides. There is a square notch in the finger end of the handplate. There are six raised elongated rectangles along the outside edge. There is a raised pentagon on the back edge near the wrist. Raised details are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Fingers are armored in 2-3 rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, with the fingertips ending in contoured trapezoids. There may be small circles on the fingertip pads. The joints between the pieces have a circle detail resembling a mechanical joint. Mechanical pieces may be present giving the appearance of the finger pieces being attached to the hand base piece. The palms may have flat armor plates attached to the glove’s palm. Hand armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

Forearm Armor (revision 1) Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Proportional to the rest of the costume. Forearms may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. One on each forearm, they are not interchangeable. Each forearm is a mirror image of the other. Forearms have an elongated rectangular appearance with the upper (elbow) end wider than the lower (wrist) end. There is a raised band around the upper section approximately 1/5th the length of the total forearm. The rear panel is smooth with no details. The front panel has an elongated rectangular recess with a piston like detail insert. The insert is painted metallic black or silver. The inside panel has an elongated rectangular recess approximately 3/4" to 1 1/5" (20mm to 30mm) wide which starts at the raised band and runs the length of the forearm ending at the wrist. The outside panel has a raised panel detail. The panel has a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half similar in appearance to the bicep raised panel. The raised panel is painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.

Not a double negative at all. When worn and the arms are straight down, the piston greeblie faces forwards with the raised elongated rectangle greeblie on the outside of the forearm and the recessed rectangle on the inside. Thus the forearms are not interchangeable as that would reverse the positioning of the raised and recessed details. They are however identical in details so there is no difference in appearance other than them being mirrored. Don't know if you use Armorsmith but when you add a piece to the avatar and you select "mirror" it takes the piece and flips it to the opposite arm or leg etc. I did notice that I used the term "front panel" twice. The second usage should be "outside panel" ... changed below.

@IcyTrooper No worries Brother, no apologies needed!

@IcyTrooper any input?

Next up: Revision 0 Forearm Armor Gloss black in color except as noted below. One on each forearm and are not interchangeable. Each forearm is a mirror image of the other. Forearms have an elongated rectangular appearance with the upper (elbow) end wider than the lower (wrist) end. There is a raised band around the upper section approximately 1/5th the length of the total forearm. The rear panel is smooth with no details. The front panel has an elongated rectangular recess with a piston like detail insert. The insert is painted metallic black or silver. The inside panel has an elongated rectangular recess approximately 20-30mm wide which starts at the raised band and runs the length of the forearm ending at the wrist. The front panel has a raised panel detail. The panel has a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half similar in appearance to the bicep raised panel. The raised panel is painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half. Forearms may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

I'm good with that.

@Oldracer27 Greg, the CRL has not been posted yet as no one has built any kits to the CRL. We require model photos of an actual built kit when submission is made to the Legion for approval. If your builder can build the suit to the CRL spec, you could provide a set of detail photos like the other CRLs. You would be the "model trooper" for the CRL @IcyTrooper

@Aesmodan I would think the CRL 1" specialist requirement is easily accomplished. Eventually space the boxes per the CRL and align them so the strap and slots are even and then either tack them in place with hot glue or E6000. That way if you even have to make adjustments they can be easily moved.

Congratulations! Post up some final photos the next time you suit up or attend a Trooping! Well done Tropper!

I made a two sound files to be used with my @ukswrath wireless DT helmet audio system. I like his set up as I don't have any wires running to my helmet, the system is compact, easy to use, and loud enough to hear. The speakers are mounted in the helmet under the nose side vents. The system uses a Bluetooth mini mp3 player. The two sound files are set up so that one has a 1-2 second gap between the chatter to enable a Play/Pause function, this allows me to carry on as if I am conversing with fans. The second has variable gaps much like the TK sound loop. This allows me to just walk around and it plays at random intervals. One thing I really like about the system is that I can load different sound files and cycle thru the mp3 player to play them. Example I have the Imperial March, AC/DC Hells Bells and my favorite to play when I walk into a room is AC/DC's "Back in Black" LOL The two sound files come preloaded in @ukswrath's system. I made the files available for everyone's use and have noticed a lot of people who are selling DT chatter devices are using my files (I can't tell you how I know this ... trade secret 😎) If you go with the glove you can get the files here and edit out what you want to use.

Updated the links to these files Loop: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/pmqcd5ju86xwt5hf7fq5q/2-Deathtrooper-Voice-Lines-with-segments-Loop-track.mp3?rlkey=held2gs9g67jblxghyss1ip8a&st=gjbmj0rt&dl=0 Play/Pause: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/f6dfcccx81mmo2aelraov/1-Updated-Deathtrooper-Voice-Lines-Play-Pause-track.mp3?rlkey=jugv272t3wax10ld22wdz7bw7&st=uu4ecm82&dl=0

Yes, as long as the cut edges butt up against each other so there is no gap.

Looking good Dan, I made some constructive comments which will help with some "fitment" issues. Your GML may not mention anything about them, but they will help with the overall aesthetics of your costume. Let me know if you have any questions. Suit up Look.pdf

Alex, @DoggyDoc made his own, he may be able to help. Here is a link to his post about them. click the gray box with the arrow pointing upper right

I know we discussed the biceps with the shoulder bell armor, but they are two sperate pieces ergo why I said in the shoulder and in now in the bicep that they can be one piece, but we need to define them both separately just in case someone builds them separated: Revision 0 Bicep Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted IAW the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. One on each shoulder and are not interchangeable. Each bicep is a mirror image of the other. Is overlapped by the shoulder bell. May be incorporated with the shoulder bell as one single piece. The bicep has an overall square appearance with the rear panel flaring out slightly the last 1/3rd to 1/4th at the top. There are two raised panel details on the inside and outside of the bicep. Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half. The upper rear corner of each panel is angled to mimic the bicep rear panel flare. See CRL Photo. The forward lower corner of each panel is angled rearward. See CRL Photo. Panels are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray. The outer raised panel is raised out more than the inside panel. There is a raised panel on the front side of the bicep which is flared thicker at the top half. There is a vertical rectangular cutout in the center of the panel. There is a vertical rectangular insert with a beveled lower end in the center of the cutout. The top of the insert extends underneath the shoulder bell. There is a recessed grove approximately 10mm wide around the lower edges of the bicep. This recess is offset slightly upward from the lower edges. Biceps may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

That's OK, no worries, it happens!

Check ogleprops.com, their visors are L2 compliant

I had to pull out the lining and install a hardhat liner. Once I did, I was able to have plenty of room for my fans and LED battery packs. Plus it allows for more air flow. I wear a 7 1/4 hat for reference.

We have previously discussed the chest and back armor which has a "shoulder plate" similar to a pauldron. I named it Shoulder bell armor to align with other "shoulder bells." Below it is another section that I have named as "Bicep Armor" The onscreen suit appearance presents itself as an upper piece which overlaps a lower piece. We can name it what ever we want but I was just sticking with previous naming conventions.

Alright! Moving right along ..... another quick and easy one. Revision 0 Shoulder Bell Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Shoulder bells may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. One on each shoulder and are not interchangeable. Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. Overlaps the bicep armor or may be incorporated with the bicep as one single piece. There is a notch for the bicep armor greeblie in the front lower edge. There is a raised beveled circular detail on the outside of the shoulder bell. (See CRL Photo for reference) Inside the detail is a raised circle ring which has a flat disc painted metallic black or silver. There is a raised cylinder in the middle of the disc painted metallic black or silver. There is a vertical recess approximately 20mm / 0.75 inch wide along the inside edges of the front and rear faces. This band is offset slightly inward from the inside edge.

@bluebantha Carter! Welcome back. I remembered your Shadow Trooper thread and did not realize you were never approved. I look forward to helping you "GML bomb proof" your Death Trooper. As you build it, I recommend that you build to Level 2 standards and get approved at L1 and then turn around and request an L2 look. The Detachment makes that decision. Best of luck and please reach out if you have any questioned.

Which type of cloth should I use to hand buff it out? I have a sponge drill attachment, but last time I tried buffing it out, I burned the clear coat. When I have to polish any paint or clearcoat on any of my armors I use an orbital hand buffer. You have to take it slow and use very little pressure when doing it as to not generate any friction heat. https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/?th=1 If you want to hand buff with the polishing compound, I have used the sponge that comes with the Turtle Wax cans.

"Is there a way to buff this out, or am I just going to have to sand it down with high grit sand paper again and repaint/clear coat it?" "Tis but a scratch!" 😆 As long as its only in the clear coat or paint you can buff it out with auto rubbing compound, then hit it with a polishing compound. If it's into the primer or material, it will definitely need to be wet sanded and repainted. I assume the placement looks good? I just need to secure the left most box, the leather pouch and attach the hidden 2" plastic clip on the other end to make it a functional belt. Placements look good. Good idea to wait on the rear pouch until you can put it on and position it correctly before affixing it. I can't tell you how many times I have seen DTs with their rear pouch way out of alignment.