Chaos

@Baron Tarkus Sergio, take a look at this post might help you out.

Next Section up for discussion, Standard CRL introduction. Revision 0 Black text indicates a feature that is required for approval. Blue text denotes requirements for Level 2 "Specialist” but is not required for basic approval. Red text indicates features that take the prop/costume item to an even higher level of accuracy. For 501st membership only the requirements listed in black need to be met. Special Notes: · The armor parts shall be gloss and made from one of these types of materials or like materials: Fiberglass, PLA, PETG, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene). · If any of the parts are 3D printed there shall be no visible print lines · Blasters are not required for Legion membership per our weapons policy. This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type. · This document is not intended to be a detailed how-to on costume construction; rather a visual guide to be used for 501st costume approval. Details on construction may be found on the respective costume detachment web forum. · GMLs uncertain about an aspect of submitted costume shall post questions in the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the Legion forum. · Measurements given in this document are intended to be approximate and generalized and are not criteria for Level 1 approval but may be required for Level 2 requirements. · Requirements for all 501st costumes are proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size. · Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GML's and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume. Costume Weathering: · The costume's armor and hard pieces are gloss black. · The Dark Trooper GEN III costume may be slightly weathered to produce a worn look. The weathering must be uniform across all costume parts. If weathered, a light grey or white tint paint wash, or dry brush technique, or powder dusting may be used to create the oxidized or dirty effect. More information can be found on the SpecOps Detachment Forums. (Insert link to weathering photos here) Contrasting Color Scheme: · Some parts have a contrasting color scheme between gloss black, matte or metallic black, matte silver, or matte dark gray. More information can be found on the SpecOps Detachment Forums. (insert link to Color Scheme Guide) · Some parts have additional colors to highlight recesses or grooves. These are defined in each piece’s description along with reference photos. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

Sergio, The last change to the CRL was started April 23rd, 2020 and finalized and posted December 12th, 2020. So I am not sure what "changes you are referring to. The current CRL states: "Metallic black or weathered silver colored cylindrical detailed parts shall be evident on the left forearm." which was also in the original CRL. In the Color Scheme Guide the color referred to as "Metallic Dark Grey" and any reference to Metallic Black is Tamiya Metallic Black - TS40 I know Denis used Tamiya Metallic Black - TS40 for his paint scheme. You should be good to go.

Its pretty much straight out of the Star Wars wiki site. Can't go wrong with that.

This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet Neck Seal and Apron Undersuit Gaskets Chest Armor and Shoulder Armor Back Armor Biceps Elbow Joint Forearms Hands Abdomen Armor Codpiece & Posterior Armor Belt Thigh Armor Knee Joint Lower Leg Armor Boot Armor Boots Dark Trooper Blaster ----------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------ Description: Dark Trooper: Generation 3 Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars Star Wars: The Mandalorian The Phase-III Dark Trooper, also known as the third-generation design Dark Trooper was a type of elite, experimental third-generation battle droid manufactured by the Imperial Department of Military Research and used by the Imperial remnant of Moff Gideon. The black and silver-plated droids were humanoid in shape and featured a pair of red photoreceptors and equipped with two rocket boosters, one in each foot. The droids were heat resistant, blaster resistant, and utilized extreme strength, being able to heavily damage Imperial blast doors but were very slow in general speed. According to Dr. Penn Pershing, they took up too much energy to be ready at all times, so they were kept in cold storage and took a few minutes to deploy. For even greater efficiency, a force of Dark Troopers could be deployed alongside a Death Trooper escort, who would hold command over the battle droids. Special Notes: The armor parts shall be made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. Costume Weathering: The costume's armor and hard pieces are gloss black. The Dark Trooper GEN III costume may be slightly weathered to produce a worn look. The weathering must be uniform across all costume parts. If weathered, a light grey or white tint paint wash, or dry brush technique, or powder dusting may be used to create the oxidized or dirty effect. More information can be found on the Spec Ops Detachment Forums. (Insert link to weathering photos here) Contrasting Color Scheme: Some parts have a contrasting color scheme between gloss black, matte or metallic black, matte silver, or matte dark gray. More information can be found on the Spec Ops Detachment Forums. (insert link to Color Scheme Guide) Some parts have additional colors to highlight recesses or grooves. These are defined in each piece’s description along with reference photos. Helmet Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume and proportion. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. The helmet may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The dome of the helmet is segmented into three sections. The center larger section is raised above the two side sections. The brow extends out beyond the lenses forming an overhang. There is a horizontal recess approximately 1.5" x 1/10" (38.1mm x 2.5mm) centered above the eyes approximately 1/5" to 1/2" (5mm to 12mm) above the lower edge of the brow. There are elongated trapezoids present on each side. These have the appearance of being vented with 18-20 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. There are two trapezoids present on the upper rear of the helmet similar in appearance to the Stormtrooper but are slightly wider. These have the appearance of being vented with 13-14 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. The eye lenses are inverted triangular in shape and separated. The lenses have a red tint which is or has the appearance of being illuminated. If illumination is used it shall give the eyes the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. Lens shall obscure the wearer’s eyes. There may be a small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose. Helmet has a lower section which is flared outward slightly which begins at the lower back half and extends around each side to the front ending even with the most forward edge of the side elongated trapezoids. There are three ridges that gradually step down into the neck of the wearer when viewing from behind. The cheeks below the eyes have raised triangular ridges which begin at the flared section and end at the nose piece. The top of the nose is flat with a raised section which extends up between the eyes into the brow. The nose consists of: Vocoder with 8 vertical flat raised ridges. The middle 4 are longer and equal in size. The next two are shorter than the middle, and the two outer ridges are the shortest as per the reference photos. The nose section below the vocoder has a trapezoid shape with raised details and two knobs as per the reference photos. The raised detail is a single large square with four smaller vertical rectangles on each corner. There are two “wide knurled knobs” approximately 1/2" to 3/4" (12.7mm to 20mm) in diameter located on the lower corners. There is a flat curved “mandible” on each lower side part of the helmet that extends around the back of the helmet as if it were one piece. There is a raised elongated cap with a recessed center at the end of each mandible. There are three elongated rectangle recesses on each side of the mandibles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The eye lenses are illuminated with the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. The small rectangular indent is present at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose. Neck Seal and Apron Neck seal has horizontal ribs. Extends from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck and is fitted to the wearer. No hair or skin should be visible around the neck area. It has a concealed overlap which joins at the back of the neck. The neck seal may be attached to a smooth black apron which is made of the same or similar material as the neck seal. The apron is worn over the top of the undersuit and under the chest and back armor. Undersuit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Neck seal and elbow/knee gaskets may be attached to or part of the undersuit. The black material may be shiny or matte. Gaskets Elbow, wrist, ankle, and knee gaskets (if used in lieu of a segmented armor joint): The gaskets must cover any area not covered by armor. Gaskets may be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges (similar to the TFA Elite Stormtrooper). May have the appearance of being segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The elbow, wrist, knee, and ankle joints are segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. Chest Armor and Shoulder Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Proportional to the rest of the costume. Chest and shoulder armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. Chest armor overlaps the abdominal armor. Chest armor extends under the arms and over the shoulders to join with the back armor. Method of connection is not visible. A raised circular greeblie, with the appearance of a hose port, is located on the left middle panel of the chest armor. (See CRL Gallery for reference) There are four raised cylinders of various size on the hose port. The largest one is centered, two are 180 degrees opposite each other, and one is 90 degrees to the other two and shorter. There is a centered wedge shaped recessed area that opens up towards the helmet and narrows and stops at a straight line away from the helmet. There space between this wedge shaped area and the recessed area on the lower center section of the chest armor. There is a recessed area on the lower center section of the chest armor. (Locations/descriptions are as if viewing from the front) There are three greeblies painted metallic black located in the recessed area. Greeblie is located on the top center of the recessed section. An elongated rectangle consists of; four equally spaced small rectangle recesses which are painted red or illuminated, a raised castellated ring on the right side with approximately 15 castellations. The lower left corner is inverted into the center. Greeblie is on the lower right side of the recessed section. Six vertical raised rectangles equally spaced with the far right rectangle being approximately twice the width of the other five. Greeblie is located on the lower left side of the recessed section. Two raised elongated horizontal rectangles sit above a raised uneven “T” shape. The arm area of the chest armorhas a raised tapered ring that joins with a matching detail on the back armor. There are three raised elongated narrow trapezoid shapes that extend from the raised tapered ring to the lower front edge of the chest armor. There is a raised rectangle with five recessed rectangles of various lengths below the raised tapered ring. There are solid pauldron type shoulder armor that sit on top of each of the shoulders and extend slightly past the shoulder/bicep armor and are attached to a single point on the chest and the back armor. Shoulder armor may be stationary or pivot with shoulder movement. The attachment greeblie is present twice on each shoulder armor (front and back) and is circular in shape with a bracket shaped extension that faces outwards away from the helmet. The bracket shaped extension has four equally spaced raised edges. Within the circular greeblie there is a centered raised circle that is smaller than the circular greeblie it sits on. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The chest lower center section’s elongated rectangle consists of four small rectangle recesses which must be illuminated red using LEDs.

Proposed Imperial Phase III Dark Trooper: Third Generation CRL (Initial) It has been almost three and half years since the release of The Mandalorian Chapter 16: The Rescue and since then there have been many high quality photos of the Phase III Dark Trooper- GEN III released and with the appearance of Dark Trooper GEN III in “Star Wars: The Mandalorian” once again the spotlight is shining brightly on Empire’s Elite Special Operations Forces. For the last few years, the Spec Ops members have been analyzing photos and toys of the Dark Trooper GEN III and started the daunting task of determining if this costume can be wearable and to what extent would the CRL detail the costume. This was further complicated by the fact that the suits worn by actors were augmented with CGI details that may or may not be able to be replicated in a wearable/functional part. There are a few individuals who have produced a costume of some semblance to the suits seen on the series. We plan to use their lessons learned during the build of their suits to assist in determining wearability of suit items. We have determined that this kit can be worn with some modifications, but we must determine how far from CGI detail that will we accept as basic CRL requirements. The Dark Trooper GEN III will be a single version CRL. Weapons will be optional for basic approval but when present for approval must be in accordance with the CRL optional item description. Currently Level 2 requirements will be developed at a later time. The delay is primarily driven by the capabilities of builders and makers’ abilities to replicate the finer details of the suit. Accommodations will be considered for all the current The Dark Trooper GEN III armor makers/builders’ kits when proposing the initial CRL. This will allow individuals who are currently in the process of building kits to continue with what they have and not have to buy new pieces or change what they have right now. As the items are listed, there may be additional links to photos that we used when working out the details of the CRL. Some of those links will become part of the CRL as “reference photos” and will assist builders and GMLs as they go through the build or approval process. Other links may be inserted such as photos or comments which were used when we discussed the CRL development and will provide answers for many questions as to how or why we developed the CRL Requirements. This “Proposed CRL” will be posted in this sub-forum for public discussion and input. As with many costumes, how the kits are constructed and attached with other pieces will not be a CRL requirement unless a means of attachment is visible and obvious when the costume is worn. Keep in mind that the CRL is not intended to be a detailed “how a costume was constructed” document but rather a visual guide to be used for 501st costume approval. The process will be an item by item discussion. We will post up a section of the CRL in a logical sequence. Discussion will occur for each section for a period of no less than one week, at which time, if the general consensus of the community is that the section is acceptable, we will "lock in" the section and move on to the next. Comments or discussion for a "locked in" section will be removed as to not disrupt the process flow. However, the author will have the opportunity to re-engage at the end of the process prior to final CRL submission.

Docs method is pretty much the norm for Jim's kits

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/YjMSmW8T6bZ5N4ap/?mibextid=oFDknk https://www.facebook.com/share/p/nN9C8FL9LCHjqv4W/?mibextid=oFDknk https://www.facebook.com/share/p/QoJkqx4AF31jhwx2/?mibextid=oFDknk

Jed, talked with Tom, he said he has nothing to do with MCM Design or the files that they are selling now. He said he could help. With that being said, if you have already printed the forearms, just print a 2-4mm thick backing strip and glue it on, or add the strip into the 3D file before you print them.

I've never heard that MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files) have the ladder recesses open. That's weird, I guess you could print a 2-3mm thick rectangle piece and glue it behind the ladder. As far as the arm cylinders, most just glue them to the arm or put screws thru the inside of the forearm into the cylinders. I have seen a mounting bracket in some ones 3D files but I don't know if Tom's has it. I sent him a message to inquire about your questions. When I hear back from him I will update my post.

@Deathwatch Are those metal tabs the ones from Paul Apprentice, or did you make them yourself. @Mal86 is correct, the closer the bells are to the upper armor straps the better. Your bells are sitting too low. the top edge of the bell should be just about even with where the front and back armor meet. Paul's metal tabs are made for the ST, his ST Bell files have a raised mounting area for the snap. So if you use them on the DT without making a raised mount or straightening the tab flat straight out, you will get what you have going on right now.

"Dark Trooper Pew Pew" it shall be then! 🤣😅😄

Two fingers is not a requirement, it's a technique to ensure your thigh greeblies and shin tops don't hit each other. Adjust your thighs so there space at the knee, then trim the tops of the thighs, following the original contour just enough so you can walk squat or sit so that the front top of the thighs doesn't dig into your hip front.

Nick, Congratulations on your approval. To apply for Level 2 take a look at this section https://forum.specops501st.com/forum/40-the-specialist-program/ Once you upload all the required information and photos, the Detachment Command and DCAs will take a look.

Good day all, going to throw my two cents in here simply because I know "camo" 😄 and having worked with many CRL discussions about colors and sheens due to lighting (because opinions are like sphincters, everyone has one). The graphics designers of the game most likely used variants of colors' shading and lighting to give a more realistic appearance. Much like we had with the DT in trying to decide if a color was flat black that looked gray due to lighting, or it was actually gray. I could go into all the aspects of why certain backgrounds are used in camo patterns etc., but I think the bottom line is the base color could be a really light shade of green, or brown, or even gray. Unless you have the exact color HEX code the designer actually used, you will never know. I think this CRL should not require that the base material or color be of a “specific” color (because we just do not know) but maybe say something like this. • The costume's armor and hard pieces are camouflaged with "diffused" colors of green and brown in varying shades/tints with a "lighter shade" variant undertone/base. See reference photos. I am a firm believer in the K.I.S.S principle.

I found a photo of the blaster used by the Gen 3s in the Mando, but unfortunately it didn't have the usual ID tag telling us what the nomenclature is. Has anyone see it named anywhere. I know its based on the MP40.

A lot of people have done that for painting their kits. As a matter of fact next year when I repaint my kit, I will use the same process. I will probably use Imron paint as it is very durable, but its about $100 a gallon. LOL everything else was expensive on my build, why not extend that to the paint?

If you want a slimmer fit on the thighs I can show you what I did to mine. They are actually "clamshelled" with a velcro closure. I'll look tomorrow at work to see if I have any photos.

Because your kit is a Tripon one, here is what you need to do for the side buckle. With your front and back upper and lower armor on and positioned to fit. The rear armor side overlaps the front side piece. Draw a pencil line along the front edge of the back side piece. If you do not expect to need to change the girth of your lower, place the rear upper corner at the edge of the pencil line, the flat edge should align with the back side piece top edge. This is where you position and attach the side buckle. It should look like this:

Benjamin, Looks good so far, I had suggested to Hector that if he moved his back up so that it rotated forward, his collar tusks would sit a little lower. You will need to use some type of tab on your collar tusks to bring them down to lay flat against the front neck recess. Several people have used the tabs that I made and use on mine. Remember with Jim's kit the back sides overlap the front sides. When you get the pieces set, trim the shoulder areas so that the front and back edges meet centerline with the top of your shoulder. It makes hiding the seam easier.

I would imagine, for those that have 3D printed parts, the need to be able to replace a broken spar is easily done with a removable sniper plate. Just guessing.

This might help

That is what I did to mine, I used a 4 inch sanding wheel and "slowly" ground out a curved area. However, before I did that I took some 2 part epoxy and leveled out the backside of the sniper knee to give me more material to work with and strengthen the outside prongs.