Chaos

Revision 1 Undersuit Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Neck seal and elbow/knee gaskets may be attached to or part of the undersuit. The black material may be shiny or matte. Neck Seal and Apron Neck seal has horizontal ribs. Extends from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck and is fitted to the wearer. No hair or skin should be visible around the neck area. It has a concealed overlap which joins at the back of the neck. The neck seal may be attached to a smooth black apron which is made of the same or similar material as the neck seal. The apron is worn over the top of the undersuit and under the chest and back armor. Gaskets Elbow, wrist, ankle, and knee gaskets (if used in lieu of a segmented armor joint): The gaskets must cover any area not covered by armor. Gaskets may be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges (similar to the TFA Elite Stormtrooper). May have the appearance of being segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The elbow, wrist, knee, and ankle joints are segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color.

I think@Andreas Funk and I have concluded that "mechanical joints" can be replicated to the point that they are similar in appearance to the CGI's joints. As far as the waist. I believe it is possible to achieve the desired look with an ab/back section. It could be similar to the the shore trooper abdomen/lower back as it is a "one piece" wrap around like Andreas' or simply as I have done a one piece that looks like the middle section with side pistons and the person's ab/waist area is just the black undersuit (I prefer this) or a ribbed horizontal gasket. We can tweak the joints and abdomen and back when we get to that section.

Well it has been 2 1/2 weeks since we posted up the undersuit and "gaskets" with the question if we decided on "gaskets" at the joints or hard armor joints. Andreas and I are leaning to the "hard joint" armor path. Unless someone comes up with any other suggestions, I recommend that we sideline the section and move on to the Chest Plate and Shoulder Armor. We can always circle back around to the undersuit and joints (hard armor or gaskets) at the end. Just so we can keep things moving. Thoughts from the group?

Make sure that that you use matte or metallic black, matte silver, or dark gray and must match the rest of the armor and make sure that all of the recesses that state "may be painted" are all done to match. There is no "gun metal" color in the Color Scheme but I am going to assume that you are referring to the "metallic dark grey" which is Tamiya Metallic Black - TS40. The silver is a "matte silver" you can dull it down with a "black wash" if using that as a "weathering" it must be consistent with the rest of the armor pieces.

I would prefer that the elbow, wrists, knee, and ankle joints look like the CGI and Hot Toys, BUT we have to also discuss and decide what path we want to take. Like I said, my vote is for hard joints that resemble the CGI mechanical joints.

This is Andreas' comments translated. I will respond later today or tomorrow. Hello I'm not sure if I understood that correctly, so the joints of any kind and hips can be made of rubber or a piece of armor? A piece of armor or a rubber type gasket that looks like segmented armor - This is what we need to discuss and decide on. I agree with Andreas and think the elbow, wrist, knees, and ankle joints need to be attached so that they move and look more like a mechanical joint. The ankles could be just the side disks like Andreas has made, since this area is less noticeable and the movement is pretty simplistic. So the hip should be completely closed, from all sides? I think the hips should not be completely closed like the C3P0 shorts. I think if we use either just the black undersuit or a ribbed gasket like the DT or ST that it would suffice as a concealment. However the "if used" comment was if someone wanted to include a greeblie attached to the thigh armor that looks like the silver mechanical ball joint that we could consider it as a Level 2. I am saying this because I have been working on the 3D files for the thighs and hips and have managed to incorporate a design that mimics the CGI appearance and does not bind the wearer's movement. From my practical experience as a costume maker, this becomes very difficult and no longer wearable for everyone. The Disney doll also has an overlap on the neck seal, where Hot Toys has a smooth connection, I'll have to watch it again to see what it was like in the series. The concealed overlap closure can be seen in the movie. This type of construction hides the zipper. The suit displayed at the Mandalorian exhibit looks like it had been modified for display purposes. I just realized that I did not post up the supporting photos when I posted the proposed CRL text. (I have attached them below) When it comes to the joints, we give everyone free rein in the design or we still determine the look here. The body depends on the joints. If this is not a firm connection, the costume will do what it wants when worn later (my experience) And it will look like that. I am of the opinion that the elbow and knee joints have to be firmly connected in order to do this costume justice. I can already imagine our GMOs discussing back and forth over costume approval and taking the liberty of a personal interpretation of their opinion on this costume (oh my god, this could be something ;-))). I think that, like with the helmet, we should offer clear photos to create very clear requirements and consider the bar very precisely for the basic level, so that this costume can really be implemented by people who are keen on it.

To be honest, if you're going for level 2, I recommend getting a Jim Tripon undersuit. That Detachment guy they have reviewing the L2 Specialist's applications is a real stickler for details. Jim has a measuring chart that you measure yourself and his tailor sews it to fit you. If you have a more rounded butt tell him. The time and money you'll spend making your own is more than it'll be to have Jim make you one. Plus he is very responsive.

I'll have to translate this when I get home.

@Andreas Funk Andreas, Guten Tag. Der nächste Teil, nachdem wir den Unteranzug und die Dichtungen fertiggestellt haben, wird die Brustplatte und die Schulterpanzerung sein. Deine Fotos von der Schaufensterpuppe in Rüstung sehen toll aus! Andreas, Good day. The next part after we finalize the undersuit and gaskets will be the Chest Plate and Shoulder Armor. Your photos of the mannequin in armor looks great!

Next up is the Undersuit and Gaskets: Undersuit • Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos. Neck seal and elbow/knee gaskets may be attached to or part of the undersuit. The black material may be shiny or matte. The following shall be rubber or a shiny black material. Neck Seal and Apron • Neck seal has horizontal ribs. • Extends from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck and is fitted to the wearer. No hair or skin should be visible around the neck area. • It has a concealed overlap joined at the back of the neck. • The neck seal may be attached to a smooth black apron which is made of the same or similar material as the neck seal. o The apron is worn over the top of the undersuit and under the chest and back armor. Elbow Gaskets (If used in lieu of a segmented armor joint) • The elbow gaskets must cover any elbow area not covered by bicep or forearm armor. o Gaskets may be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges (similar to the TFA Elite Stormtrooper) o May have the appearance of being segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. Knee Gaskets (If used in lieu of a segmented armor joint) • The elbow gaskets must cover any knee area not covered by thigh or shin armor. o Gaskets may be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges (similar to the TFA Elite Stormtrooper) o May have the appearance of being segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. Ankle and Wrist Gaskets (If used in lieu of a segmented armor joint) • The gaskets must cover any area not covered by armor. o Gaskets may be rubber or a shiny black material with ridges (similar to the TFA Elite Stormtrooper) o May have the appearance of being segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): • The elbow, wrist, knee, and ankle joints are segmented overlapping armor or similar “mechanical” joint in design and color. Do we want to address the groin area? Could use shorts like the DT or Sith Trooper? The potential exists that pieces that resemble the "ball joint" that was GCI's could be made as part of the hip or thigh armor pieces. We could address this in the Hip or Thigh armor sections.

Ok I think we are good with the Helmet. I will save this revision. Helmet Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume and proportion. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. The helmet may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The dome of the helmet is segmented into three sections. The center larger section is raised above the two side sections. The brow extends out beyond the lenses forming an overhang. There is a horizontal recess approximately 1.5" x 1/10" (38.1mm x 2.5mm) centered above the eyes approximately 1/5" to 1/2" (5mm to 12mm) above the lower edge of the brow. There are elongated trapezoids present on each side. These have the appearance of being vented with 18-20 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. There are two trapezoids present on the upper rear of the helmet similar in appearance to the Stormtrooper but are slightly wider. These have the appearance of being vented with 13-14 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. The eye lenses are inverted triangular in shape and separated. The lenses have a red tint which is or has the appearance of being illuminated. If illumination is used it shall give the eyes the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. Lens shall obscure the wearer’s eyes. There may be a small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose. Helmet has a lower section which is flared outward slightly which begins at the lower back half and extends around each side to the front ending even with the most forward edge of the side elongated trapezoids. There are three ridges that gradually step down into the neck of the wearer when viewing from behind. The cheeks below the eyes have raised triangular ridges which begin at the flared section and end at the nose piece. The top of the nose is flat with a raised section which extends up between the eyes into the brow. The nose consists of: Vocoder with 8 vertical flat raised ridges. The middle 4 are longer and equal in size. The next two are shorter than the middle, and the two outer ridges are the shortest as per the reference photos. The nose section below the vocoder has a trapezoid shape with raised details and two knobs as per the reference photos. The raised detail is a single large square with four smaller vertical rectangles on each corner. There are two “wide knurled knobs” approximately 1/2" to 3/4" (12.7mm to 20mm) in diameter located on the lower corners. There is a flat curved “mandible” on each lower side part of the helmet that extends around the back of the helmet as if it were one piece. There is a raised elongated cap with a recessed center at the end of each mandible. There are three elongated rectangle recesses on each side of the mandibles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The eye lenses are illuminated with the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. The small rectangular indent is present at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose.

I think we are good on the Helmet as well. We can let it sit for a few days for replies and on Sunday I will post the next piece which is the undersuit and gaskets or joints on Sunday

Andreas, if your Helmet does not have the indent I would not worry about it. A lot of our CRL Models do not have the Level 2 detail and are just Basic approval requirements. Since the GMLs do not decide Level 2 and it is approved at the Detachment Level, I think posting a "reference photo" for the detail is sufficient for builders to see what the Level 2 detail looks like other than the CRL Model.

We could make the indent a Level 2. I have looked at every reference photo we have, all of them have the eyes illuminated which washes out detail around the eyes due to the glare, some photos you can just barley make out the indent but that's because I know its there. The best photo we have for the detail is the one from the EFX display which was designed/casted from a screen used helmet. It clearly show the small detent. So its suitable to say the indent is Level 2 and for basic it may be there. This allows helmets without it to be basic approval. Basic: There MAY BE a small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose. Level 2: The small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose is present.

I am deep into the CRL work for the Dark Trooper GEN III, but I am excited to see this is underway finally! I will monitor this and chime is as needed. Eden and Kenzo thank you for spearheading this. Awesome work so far!

Revision 1 Helmet Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume and proportion. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. The helmet may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. The dome of the helmet is segmented into three sections. The center larger section is raised above the two side sections. The brow extends out beyond the lenses forming an overhang. There is a horizontal recess approximately 1.5" x 1/10" (38.1mm x 2.5mm) centered above the eyes approximately 1/5" to 1/2" (5mm to 12mm) above the lower edge of the brow. There are elongated trapezoids present on each side. These have the appearance of being vented with 18-20 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. There are two trapezoids present on the upper rear of the helmet similar in appearance to the Stormtrooper but are slightly wider. These have the appearance of being vented with 13-14 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. The eye lenses are inverted triangular in shape and separated. The lenses have a red tint which is or has the appearance of being illuminated. If illumination is used it shall give the eyes the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam. Lens shall obscure the wearer’s eyes. There is a small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening on each side of the nose. Helmet has a lower section which is flared outward slightly which begins at the lower back half and extends around each side to the front ending even with the most forward edge of the side elongated trapezoids. There are three ridges that gradually step down into the neck of the wearer when viewing from behind. The cheeks below the eyes have raised triangular ridges which begin at the flared section and end at the nose piece. The top of the nose is flat with a raised section which extends up between the eyes into the brow. The nose consists of: Vocoder with 8 vertical flat raised ridges. The middle 4 are longer and equal in size. The next two are shorter than the middle, and the two outer ridges are the shortest as per the reference photos. The nose section below the vocoder has a trapezoid shape with raised details and two knobs as per the reference photos. The raised detail is a single large square with four smaller vertical rectangles on each corner. There are two “wide knurled knobs” approximately 1/2" to 3/4" (12.7mm to 20mm) in diameter located on the lower corners. There is a flat curved “mandible” on each lower side part of the helmet that extends around the back of the helmet as if it were one piece. There is a raised elongated cap with a recessed center at the end of each mandible. There are three elongated rectangle recesses on each side of the mandibles. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The eye lenses are illuminated with the appearance of a glow and not a focused beam.

Looks Good, I change one word in your change: There are three ridges the that gradually step down into the neck of the wearer when viewing from behind. I left out Level 2 requirements on all my write ups, I figured we could discuss what we want to consider as Level 2. Glad to see you added the eye lenses.

Jim Tripon's contact information is located in the vendor's section. Jimmiroquai Armor/Jim Tripon jimmiroquai@yahoo.com , www.facebook.com/jim.tripon

This coming Sunday will be two weeks since the Helmet posted. Either I'm that good at compiling a CRL or not many people are interested. 😆 @Andreas Funk have you had a chance to compare your helmet with the text?

@darthmaul101079 Todd, Darkside Closet used to use this to make their suits https://www.moodfabrics.com/black-rib-quilted-stretch-faux-leather-111296 The supplier no longer has it in stock ergo why DSC quit selling the undersuits. This fabric is good for Level 1 basic approval but fails the "when stretched" Level 2 requirement due to the spandex losing it's "ribbed" look. Jim Tripon has a tailor who uses a "faux leather" and then stitches in a thin cord for each rib. This is a good technique for screen used but is very time consuming. Currently Jim is the only one who produces finished undersuits.

alright! moving right along, I can't wait to see what you have done.

Good to see you back on this! The FLAT/MATTE black is a standard black, what makes it look "lighter" is the sheen of the paint, light is scattered in a wider pattern than if it was a gloss. Any brand of Flat/Matte black will work.

Now the fun begins! Supporting Reference Photos attached Revision 0 Helmet · Gloss black in color, consistent with the rest of the costume. May be painted IAW the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. (insert link as required) · Is in proportion to the rest of the costume. · The dome of the helmet is segmented into three sections. The center larger section is raised above the two side sections. · The brow extends out beyond the lenses forming an overhang. o There is a horizontal recess approximately 40mm x 3mm centered above the eyes approximately 5-10mm above the lower edge of the brow. · There are elongated trapezoids present on each side. These have the appearance of being vented with 18-20 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. · There are two trapezoids present on the upper rear of the helmet similar in appearance to the Stormtrooper but are slightly wider. These have the appearance of being vented with 13-14 raised vertical segments. Recessed areas between the segments have the appearance of being solid. · The eye lenses are inverted triangular in shape and separated. The lenses have a red tint which is or has the appearance of being illuminated. Lens should obscure the wearer’s eyes. o There is a small rectangular indent at the lower center “v” of each eye opening. · Helmet has a lower section which is flared outward slightly which begins at the lower back half and extends around each side to the front ending even with the most forward edge of the side elongated trapezoids. · The cheeks below the eyes have raised triangular ridges which begin at the flared section and end at the nose piece. · The top of the nose is flat with a raised section which extends up between the eyes into the brow. · The nose consists of: o Vocoder with 8 vertical flat raised ridges. The middle 4 are longer and equal in size. The next two are shorter than the middle, and the two outer ridges are the shortest. (Refer to CRL photo) o The nose section below the vocoder has a trapezoid shape with raised details and two knobs. (Refer to CRL photo) - The raised detail is a single large square with four smaller vertical rectangles on each corner. - There are two “wide knurled knobs” approximately 15-20mm in diameter located on the lower corners. · There is a flat curved “mandible” on each lower side part of the helmet that extends around the back of the helmet as if it were one piece. o There is a raised elongated cap with a recessed center at the end of each mandible. o There are three elongated rectangle recesses on each side of the mandibles. · The helmet may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. Discussion is ONLY for the Helmet. Minimum of 7 days discussion or until finalized, which ever occurs later.

Unless anyone has any comments about the INTRODUCTION or the 501st CRL INTRODUCTION. I will post up the next Topic which is the HELMET on Sunday. The next postings will be the "meat and potatoes" of the CRL. As I have been working on the parts and their descriptions I first used a "Primary Source" which are the screen shots and details that I thought needed to be included are listed in the wording. If there was a detail that wasn't very clear, I referenced a "Secondary Source" which is the SWC Mandalorian exhibit photos as we know that costume was used on set. If the detail was still in question I referenced the Hot Toys 1/6th scale collectible figure. I know we don't use toys as "CRL references" but since the designers of the toy had access to the screen suits and visual effects notes, I only used it to validate a detail seen on the screen suit or SWC exhibit suit for clarity. I am still working overseas so my resources and build are limited primarily by the fact that when I leave here I really don't want to have to spend the money for shipping etc. What I am doing is modifying several different sets of 3D files which I purchased and are already available. I have not approached the vendor's with my recommendations for improvements. I am waiting until the CRL is complete. With that being said, @Andreas Funk has already done a lot of great work and has most of the pieces produced. I think as we develop the CRL he should be able to make any changes or add details and provide the photos for the CRL model.