Chaos

if you used the Appliance enamel, let it cure for a week and then hit it with a polisher and polishing compound. its just like a car paint finish. Also the Appliance enamel is designed to go on as a "wet" coat. Light coats without a complete wet coverage will create spotty areas. I had to practice 4-5 times on a scrap piece of plastic I had before I sprayed my armor. Also the recoat times are different than your standard spray paints, recoat withing 30 minutes (I usually use 10-15) or 1 week. If you recoat outside of 30 and before a week you'll get an orange peel look.

Andreas, wir haben in letzter Zeit nicht viel an der CRL gearbeitet. Die größten Herausforderungen sind 1: Referenzfotos und 2: Jemand, der einen Bausatz gebaut hat, der als Diskussionsstoff für die CRL-Entwicklung verwendet werden könnte. Wenn Sie sich aktiv an der Diskussion und Entwicklung der CRL beteiligen und Ihren Build als Beispiel verwenden möchten, sind wir gerne bereit, den CRL-Prozess für dieses Kostüm fortzusetzen. Zumindest müssten wir mit klaren Fotos in höherer Auflösung von jedem Teil Ihres Kostüms beginnen, und zwar weitgehend in der gleichen Reihenfolge und Ausrichtung wie die CRL für eine bereits fertiggestellte CRL. Am besten geeignet wäre wahrscheinlich der Death Trooper, da es den Anschein hat, dass viele der im DT verwendeten Produktionsdesigntechniken auch im Gen 3 Dark Trooper verwendet wurden. Sobald wir Ihre Fotos haben, können wir beginnen, Ihre Fotos mit den Referenzfotos zu vergleichen und mit dem CRL-Verbiage-Prozess zu beginnen. Ich werde den Kommandostab markieren, damit er mitmachen kann, und auch @HidingInCosplay, der, wie Sie wissen, auch einen Kostümbau abgeschlossen hat. Ich bin zu 98 % mit meinen modifizierten 3D-Dateien unter Verwendung vorhandener Dateien und Bildschirmreferenzfotos fertig und zu 30 % mit dem Druck fertig. Wenn wir eine CRL erstellen wollen, ist es meiner Meinung nach die beste Vorgehensweise, eine Bildschirm-„Helden“-CRL zu verwenden und nicht die Disney-Requisite, da wir die CGI-Bilder reproduzieren müssen, die für das Erscheinungsbild des Dark Trooper erstellt wurden. Wenn wir von Detachment Leadership das „Go ahead“ erhalten, wird sich dieser Thread höchstwahrscheinlich in einen echten CRL-Diskussionsthread verwandeln. Stehen Sie bereit und bereiten Sie die Fotos vor. Jeder, der Fotos veröffentlichen möchte, muss diese auf einer Foto-Sharing-Site wie Imgur platzieren und die Option „Direkter Link“ verwenden, um diese Fotos in seinem Build-Thread zu platzieren. Es macht es viel einfacher, wenn wir mit dem Diskussionsprozess beginnen. Andreas, we haven't done much development on the CRL lately. The biggest challenges are 1: reference photos, and 2: Someone who has built a kit that could be used as a discussion piece for the CRL development. If you would like to be actively involved in the discussion and development of the CRL and use your build as an example we would be more than willing to continue the CRL process for this costume. At a minimum we would need to start with clear higher resolution photos of each piece of your costume much in the same order and orientation as the CRL for an already completed CRL. Probably the best one to use would be the Death Trooper as it appears much of the production design techniques used in the DT were also used in the Gen 3 Dark Trooper. Once we have your photos we can begin to compare your photos to the reference photos and begin the CRL verbiage process. I will tag the Command Staff @IcyTrooper @Dropkick @RAIDER @Blackwatch @rickyboyblue @SithThundercracker @Katiebug0747 @tipperaryred @Darth Corndog so they can chime in and also @HidingInCosplay who as you know has also completed a costume build. I am 98% with my modified 3D files using existing files and screen reference photos and 30% printing complete. If we are going to do a CRL I think the best course of action is to go with a screen "hero" CRL and not the Disney Prop as we need to replicate the CGI imaging that was done to the Dark Trooper's appearance. If we get the "Go ahead" from Detachment Leadership, most likely this thread will transform into an actual CRL Discussion thread. Stand by and get those photos ready. Anyone who is going to post photos will need to place those on a photo sharing site such as Imgur and use the "Direct Link" option to place those photos into their Build thread. It makes it a lot easier when we start the discussion process.

How are you hip boxes and front ammo pouches attached?

My file is a Silloutte format, however, I can convert it to a .svg file so you should be able to import it and use to cut the silver vinyl. I'll send it to you later today. Your SE-r is made with MCM Design's files (Previously known as Tom's files)? I ask because there are 2 different sizes based on the blaster modelling size.

The CRL for Level 2 only says this "OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is a small silver or gray circuit card pattern on the bottom rear just behind the hand grip." With that being said, when a CRL references an item and does not give a complete description then it defaults back to any photos that are provided. Those "circuit boards" you are showing will work, as long as when they are adhered to the SE-14r, they are close to the approximate size as seen in the photo. Ideally you want it to look exactly like the screen used one. If you know someone who has a Cricut or Silhouette decal cutting machine I can send you a template file which matches the screen used one. You just can't do what someone who I sent the file to for personal use, and start selling them using my file, that really pissed me the F-Off

Changing the length of your laces is not an issue, just as long as they are hidden from view you're good to go.

That would be a question for your Garrison Command Staff. We have seen variations of the DT in post R1 series, so it has become more common. Why you'd need to ask your Garrison Staff is because almost all Garrisons require an "approved" costume in order to get credit for a trooping unless the event has already been established as "special event" such as Cancer Awareness, St Patrick's, Christmas etc, where as modifications to the costume are acceptable. Check with them.

I can wear the Anovos helmet with no issues (hat size 7 1/4") so my head had plenty of room in Jim's helmet. It was great to have all the air circulation, especially in the Hawaiian summer months. I didn't need side foam, with a baklava on and the harness adjusted properly, there was no "wobble" I did need a pad in the top center to raise the helmet for eye alignment.

You're going to like using the hard hat liner. It's way better than foam as it allows airflow around your head with a good set of fans (I use TrooperTronix) it also gives you more room to mount a helmet audio system and anything else you want to pack into the helmet. The suspension harness depending on how far up you mount it in your helmet may not adjust enough to align the helmet with your eyes, if it sits too low and you need to raise your helmet up on your head you can use any helmet pad, they are cheap on Amazon, or you could go to a craft store and buy a small memory foam pillow or sheet and make your own. As far as affixing anything to the inside of the helmet, if you want it to stay permanently, use a 2 part plastic weld epoxy, if you want to be able to remove with little effort use E6000. However keep in mind that when E6000 gets hot it can peel away. Here is an old photo from when I had a Jimmi helmet, might give you some ideas.

Lighting plays a lot in sheen in photos, the model did have his cog painted different than the Color scheme, but the CRL says "may be painted" which means as long as it looks like a duck, it's a duck. However if your are shooting for Level 2, your suit must be IAW the Color Scheme. Since we were back logged during the CRL redo and I was in Kabul and the model was busy, we did not ask him to suit up again.

Paul @Mal86 made his and posted this in his build thread. He may be able to be of some assistance. I have a 3D file for the soft pouch covers. The square belt boxes are an easy thing to model.

😅🤣😆😂

Jim's kit has sharper details, 850 has upgraded a lot of their parts to increase details. Both kits meet CRL basic requirements, Jim's is easier to modify for Level 2 requirements. Hope that makes sense.

Good day and welcome back to the forums. We have a vendor list pinned under the Death trooper sub-forum. Currently there are two suppliers of pre-made parts. 850 Armorworks (ABS) and Jim Tripon (hybrid polymer/fiberglass) You can contact them with your measurements and see if their kits will accommodate your body size. Others have gone the 3D print route and used Armor Garage to resize the files to fit them. Beware of using files that may be "cheaper" than others as these files have been found to be inaccurate and require a ton of work to get them to CRL standards. You can always post a file source and ask for recommendations/reviews from anyone who has used them. Best of luck with your build and we are always here for assistance.

@PiotrRasputin Dan, good thing you used E6000 for the side vent screens, that gauge is too big, the screening is much smaller. here is a reference photo I and a few others have used this type of metal screen mesh patch before: https://www.amazon.com/Window-Screen-Repair-Aluminum-3-Inch/dp/B000BQUTC2

Let me step in here, for everyone's situational awareness. The CRL does not specify in writing which piece needs to overlay. After looking at the ST upper armor construction, it is possible that there was a side piece that attaches between the front and back in which case the side piece is under the front and rear corners. However when we constructed the CRL, we had to use the photos we obtained from the SWC Exhibit shortly after the release of the movie. When we updated the CRL to it's current form, we intentionally left out any references to how the armor is arranged. This accommodated various builder's designs such as Tom's which uses the side insert and Jim's who has the front longer to reach back to the back piece. Either way per the CRL is correct. On my Jim's kit the back piece sits flush up against my side buckle straps. Here are some photos of screen used suits for reference:

Almost all of us with Jim's kit have the back overlap the front.

Doc is spot on with his answers to your questions so I won't echo what he said. When you extend the back, do it so the overall ankle circumference increases as well.

This is an easy fix! Lots of people who have muscular calf muscles have had this issue. No need to panic. There are two things that must look correct when the shins are worn. The front center line must be centerline with your leg and the back raised vertical strip needs to be centerline with your leg. The length of your shins looks good you just need to move the whole thing down over the boot. Your first decision will be are you willing to remove the padding from the tongue of the boot and/or the padding that is in the top of the ankle pads. I originally sized my shins based on the Talib boot which has no padding at all, so when I switched to the Jared they did not close. I cut openings on the inside surfaces of the tongue and ankle pads and removed the padding. They will still meet L2 requirements as the structure and form still remain "Jared." The only thing removing or not removing will effect is how much of an extension strip you will need to make so that the top and bottom of the shins close. No need to mess with your front because its a solid piece, you are at an advantage because you chose to clamshell close your shins at the back. Here's how you fix it: You remove the rear vertical raised center strip, add in extensions to the left and right edges so that the sides close and the outside edge overlaps the inside edge the same width as the vertical center strip. Affix the center strip aligned with the center line of your leg and Wahla! your shins close and meet CRL requirements. You will have to build up any details that continue from the original piece to the center vertical strip, but bondo, filler putty, or an ABS strip can take care of the extension of the details. Gerald @DoggyDoc had to make extensions for his forearms and shins and he has a really good section on it in his build thread. Here is a simplified explanation I did for someone a while back which may help in visually seeing what I suggested. Hope this helps. Like I said don't panic. Also, Jim only makes 2 sizes, regular and tall, neither one increase the diameter of the shins, only the length is different.

Anovos helmets were produced by scans of an actual helmet, they are the standard to which the CRL was written. They do run small so some people have issues wearing them. They are heavier than most others, but there's just something about having one that makes your toes tingle! 🤣😅😆 I think I paid $600 a few years ago. Depending on availability, I've seen them as high as $1200.

Yep! That's it!

Awesome! And keeping right on hounding me! I live for this $h1t 😅

I bought a hard hat from Lowes Home Improvement and cut it up. Here are two video tutorials on YouTube done for a TK helmet, but it's the same process, and the other is for a DT